Real life in South Korea. How people live in South Korea - the story of a Russian student from Seoul

Now it has become fashionable to talk about how to improve our cities, which, by the way, makes me very happy. Therefore, I will tell you about the experience that I managed to peep in Korea. Let's start with the subway. Being in the Korean subway is very comfortable and safe! The doors to enter the car open synchronously with the gates at the station, as in St. Petersburg. It is strange that they did not do this in Moscow, so many lives could have been saved. Each door in the car is marked with a number. See the signs on the platform? That is, we can say: we meet at the station "Chunmuro" at door number 4 of the fifth car. It's impossible to get lost! The subway is a whole city, with huge passages - the so-called "Underground shopping centers".

Right in the metro there are very decent chain cafes where you can sit or take a tasty treat with you.
This is the Metro Art Center. You can gawk at contemporary art without leaving the subway. I am glad that we are also taking similar steps.
But, of course, the most important thing is that there are very decent toilets in the Korean Subway! Despite the fact that these are public toilets, in most cases, they are very clean, do not stink, there is always soap and paper, etc. In the Moscow metro, I have never seen toilets at all! They are?
There are no cashiers in the Korean subway. You can buy tickets only at self-service terminals.

There are two types of tickets: single and permanent. Here is the most interesting moment. Permanent tickets - "T-money" are issued in the form of plastic cards, or such funny trinkets with a built-in chip that can be charged for any amount. You just put the key fob in a special window and put on it any amount of money that is spent at the current rate. You can pay with such key chains everywhere. There are terminals on buses, trains and even taxis. T-money can also be used to pay bills and purchases. Very comfortably! Another type of ticket is valid for a certain number of trips, and the fare is calculated based on the length of your route. You need to apply a ticket to the turnstile for both entry and exit. In Seoul, these tickets are made in the form of reusable magnetic cards. When buying a ticket, you make a deposit for using the card, and when you exit the metro, you can return this deposit in a special machine. Brilliant! Thus, there is no need to reissue a huge number of cards that are expensive to manufacture and people do not forget to return them. Busan has a different system. There tickets are made in the form of small magnetic strips. When you exit, you insert this ticket into the turnstile and it stays there. No urns are needed, tickets are recycled, no one litters. Everything is very simple! So why do we produce expensive, but disposable magnetic cards, which then need to be thrown into the trash. Pretty wasteful. I don't think that our city planners didn't come up with the idea to adopt the Korean experience. Most likely, this was done in someone's interests, in order to constantly provide work for card manufacturers. Don't you think so? By the way, there are no queues near self-service terminals, because, basically, all locals use T-money. Near each terminal there is also a money changer. Very comfortably!

English-speaking guides work at metro stations that are adjacent to train stations and airports. They will come to you if you look like a tourist, help you buy tickets, find your hotel, answer all your questions.
Wi-Fi in Korea works almost everywhere. In subway cars, for example, there are routers of two operators. But only locals can use it, since to enter they need a username and password, which they are given when connecting. And visitors just can't buy a SIM card. You can only rent a phone.
The carriages themselves are very spacious and interconnected. Inside the car, when the train is moving, it is quiet, you can communicate without raising your voice, listen to music at a low volume. Reading books is also very comfortable, because the car does not shake at all. But what can I say ... when the car arrives at the station, there is no hell of a roar, like ours. Only a pleasant sound "uuuuuuuuuuuu". Everything is so precise that you do not feel the speed. The gap between the car and the platform is about 4 centimeters. By the way, the cars are controlled by automatics. There are no drivers!
Please note that places for the disabled remain free. There are luggage racks above the seats. For passengers who ride standing up, there are high and low handrails. If you are short, you don't need to "hang" from the bar. 90% of Korean subway passengers are engrossed in their gadgets. Smartphones are available to all segments of the population. Young people are on social networks, and aunts are watching TV. For Koreans, smartphones with a contract are very cheap and everyone can afford them.
Navigating the Korean subway is quite easy. At each station there are such touchscreen monitors. You can choose your route and even see what attractions are at each station. Each station can have up to 10 exits. But they are all marked with numbers, so it is impossible to get lost. You just agree: "Meet at the 5th exit." Very convenient, no need to explain anything for a long time. Fifth exit, that's it!

Separately, it must be said about the care of the disabled.
The vast majority of places have lanes for the blind.
Each metro station has elevators and special escalators for people in wheelchairs and just the elderly.
Information boards are also duplicated for the disabled. In principle, disabled people can move freely around the city. There are no insurmountable obstacles.
What struck me the most about the Korean subway was the organization of the passengers themselves. Unfortunately, I did not take a photo, but I will try to explain in words. We are familiar with the situation when, at rush hour, a crowd of people begins to break into the doors of cars. There is no such thing in Korea. If there is no train for a long time and a lot of people accumulate on the platform, the Koreans themselves line up in two lines, one on each side of the car door, and enter one at a time. The principle of "squeezing" is not welcome here. To be honest, the first time I discovered this was when, out of habit, I rushed into the car myself. But by the surprised looks of people, I quickly realized the situation. It's embarrassing, yes. Well, enough about the subway. The city also has many interesting points. Public transport is also very well organized. Here, for example, is an electronic scoreboard at a bus stop, which shows which bus is approaching, what time the number you need will be, and so on. Bus drivers drive very dynamically and adhere to the “Pali-Pali” principle, which I will discuss later.
We also managed to ride a high-speed train across the country, from Seoul to Busan. Despite the fact that the train is moving fast - 300 km / h, the speed is not felt, there is no knocking or shaking. The ride is really very comfortable! We didn’t even notice how we flew across Korea in a couple of hours. It is also interesting that the controller did not check our tickets. I just forgot which pocket I put them in and started looking. The conductor said - ok, I believe you. And that's it! About relationships based on trust, I will also talk further.
All sidewalks in the city are tiled. And this is how intersections in residential areas are arranged. You see, on all four sides, just before the intersection, there is a bright artificial roughness of impressive size. Famously "flying" the intersection will not work, you have to slow down almost to a complete stop. This completely eliminates the possibility of serious accidents.
This is how parking spaces are organized in residential areas. The building stands on beams, and the entire first floor is an entrance with parking. The decision is very competent, as it saves space, the streets in such areas are narrow, and it is not possible to leave a car there.
Areas with modern skyscrapers are similar to ours. I liked the solution - to write large house numbers at a height so that you can find the house you need from afar.
In Seoul, there are a huge number of all sorts of parks, squares, recreation areas. When you walk around the city, you can immediately see that it is being built for life, for the citizens. All areas where we managed to visit are very comfortable and well-groomed. When we walked around the city, there was never a problem with the toilets. Unlike trash cans, toilets are everywhere. Everywhere they are very decent, clean, and most importantly - free! Like the next picture. It’s sometimes scary to go into our plastic boxes. And you have to pay for it too! I think that in decent cities this should not be.
On numerous sports grounds, mainly people of the age are engaged. Therefore, it is not surprising that people over 50 are very active. Go in for sports, travel, climb mountains and so on. Koreans take care of themselves. Everyone looks very decent, we have not seen ugly fat Koreans, dirty, slovenly dressed people with whom it would be unpleasant to be around.
There is also an active fight against smoking here. Health care is the number 1 priority in Korea.
At first, we were slightly surprised by the fact that in the city, trash cans are a rarity, and Seoul residents calmly leave garbage on the streets. In the evening, especially busy neighborhoods like Hongdae are covered in rubbish, but in the morning they are again shining with cleanliness. Then I noticed that janitors were walking around the streets, with such carts that collect and sort waste. So, maybe it’s not clean where they don’t litter, but where they clean well?
The care of Koreans about nature is also impressive. For them, every tree is important, every bush they try to save.
Well, you have probably already understood from all of the above that Korea is one of the most decent and safest countries in the world. The cops on the streets here are very friendly and rarely seen. When you walk around Seoul, it is not at all possible that there is a place for street crime.
In conclusion, I would like to note several features inherent in the Koreans. The cult of politeness and respect. Koreans have long understood that you can live well in society only when you treat other people the way you would like them to treat you. Here, no one is trying to cheat, rob, overtake, humiliate, and so on. All public life in Korea is built on mutual respect and trust. Here is a very telling example. On the doors of cars, even executive class, soft pads are glued so as not to accidentally hit neighboring parked cars. Over the past year, my car has been hit like this three times in parking lots. Now on each side.
There is no strict control in stores, no one forces you to seal bags in plastic bags. Shop windows on the streets stand without sellers, because no one is going to steal anything. I have already spoken about the queues in the subway cars. Most Koreans work 6 days a week. It is one of the most hardworking nations in the world. There is a well-known anecdote on this topic in Korea: Koreans work like normal Koreans, come to work at 7 am, leave at 11 pm, everything is as it should be, and one Korean came at 9 and left at 6. Well, everyone looked at him strangely , well, maybe where a person urgently needs it. The next day, he comes again at 9 and leaves at 6. Everyone is in shock, they start looking at him askance and whispering behind his back. On the third day, he again comes at 9 and goes home at 6. On the fourth day, the team could not stand it. - Listen, why do you come so late and leave so early? - Guys, what are you talking about, I'm on vacation.

As our friend, a well-known Korean ceramist (in the picture above - her workshop) told us, they believe that working for the state is more prestigious than having their own small business. The state pays well for work and provides unprecedented social guarantees. One of the most respected and highly paid professions in Korea is teaching! Also, the Koreans have an unspoken principle of "pali-pali". Literally, this expression means "quickly, quickly." "Don't slow down" - if in our opinion. They can't stand waiting. It shows up in everything. You will be immediately served in a restaurant, your purchases will be delivered quickly, the bus drivers drive very dynamically, move quickly, brake sharply. Most firms fulfill orders instantly, on the spot. I myself was convinced of this when I handed over the films for developing, and after 2 hours they were ready. Koreans hate wasting time. I think this is one of the reasons why their economy took off so quickly. national product. 90% of cars on Korean roads are Korean-made. The vast majority of electronics, clothing, products, and indeed all goods are also Korean and, as you know, very High Quality. The country itself produces and consumes its wealth.

Organization. It seems that Koreans start from school, with wearing a school uniform and walking in ranks. Everything here is well organized. Most of all I liked the fact that the districts of the city are organized "by interests". There is a furniture district, a fashion district, an electronics sales district, a printing services district, a bicycle shop district, and so on. It's incredibly convenient! If you want to order corporate calendars, for example, you don't have to drive all over town looking for the best deal. All firms in this industry are located in the same block. This is beneficial for both sellers and buyers. In the photo above - just a quarter of printing services. And this is what a typical Korean strike looks like.
This is a very common occurrence. Here it is customary to voice their dissatisfaction out loud, but people fight for their rights in a civilized manner and, as we were told, in most cases this bears fruit. It would seem that all of the above is so simple and logical, but why then such a rich country as ours cannot organize its life in this way? It seems to me that we have somehow developed hope for someone, or for something. Order must be first of all in our heads! And the Korean experience demonstrates this perfectly.

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Personal competition, the cult of food and plastic surgery

I have always liked Asian culture.

Ekaterina Alexandrova

left Moscow for Seoul

I entered the Moscow State University in the Department of Korean and after the second year I went to Seoul for a month-long internship.

When she graduated from the bachelor's degree, she immediately applied to the master's program at Seoul National University. It was four years ago. Now I live in Seoul, writing a thesis and teaching at a private academy of the Russian language.

Visas

For the duration of my master's degree, I applied for a D-2 study visa, which allows me to work a few hours a day. To do this, I needed a passport, an application, two photographs, a bank statement, an invitation from the university and permission from the university to apply for a visa - it says that the work will not interfere with the educational process. The visa processing fee is $60. The study visa can be extended, there is no need to leave the country.

A year ago, I changed my visa to E-2: it allows me to work as a teacher in private language academies. It can be issued by those who graduated from a university in Russia and received a bachelor's degree. To change my visa, I brought to the immigration center an agreement with the employer, an employer's license, a diploma from Moscow State University with an apostille, a certificate of medical examination, and a certificate of no criminal record. The visa processing fee is $60.

The visa was issued for one year - this is the duration of my work contract. If the employer extends the contract with me, I will extend the visa.

60 $

cost of a visa

To work full time, you need to get a residence permit - an F-2 visa. It is given for 3 years, after which it can be extended. Each applicant for a visa is evaluated according to a point system: you must score at least 80 out of 120. Age, education, knowledge of the Korean language, income, volunteer work experience are assessed. It is also usually required to pass the Korean integration program - a special course for foreigners about life in the country.

Now I just passed the exam to determine the level of the Korean language - I have the fifth, maximum. It remains to listen to 50 hours of the integration program - and you can submit documents.

For those who do not speak Korean well, it is difficult to obtain a residence permit.

public services

Every foreigner who plans to stay in Korea for more than 90 days must obtain a registration card or a foreigner's card. For a non-resident, this is the main document.

To get a registration card, you need to come to the immigration center and submit the documents: I brought an invitation from the university, an order for admission to the university, a completed application form and a photo. Three weeks later I took the finished card.

The home address is indicated on the card - if it changes, you must report this to the immigration center within two weeks. Once I forgot about this rule and I was fined $70 (3900 R).

70 $

fine for incorrectly indicated address on a foreigner's card

There are two large offices of immigration centers in Seoul. I came across only polite and friendly specialists, they were never rude. The inspectors do not speak English well, so it will be difficult without knowledge of the Korean language. Volunteer translators can be found at the immigration center - they may be able to help, but it will not be fast.

Documents are accepted here only by prior electronic appointment. This is not always convenient: during the peak months, you cannot get an appointment. Last time, I waited a month for my turn, because a new academic semester had begun and there was an influx of students. With urgent questions, they should be taken out of turn: for example, if my visa runs out, it will be extended for me on the same day. How it works in practice, I have not tested.

Salaries and work

The Korean currency is called won. 100 ₩ is approximately 5 R.

The minimum wage in Korea is ₩7,530 (R398) per hour, ₩1,573,770 (R83,278) per month. The amount is set each year by the Department of Labor. Approximately how much do people working in the service sector earn. My friend worked in the mobile communications department and after 2 years of work he received 1,700,000 ₩ (90,500 R) per month.

Young educated Koreans tend to work in large national corporations. The salary of a young specialist in such a company starts from 2.5 million won (133,000 R) per month.

Students start looking for work in their fourth year. At the beginning of the semester, Korean corporations publish vacancies, students choose the ones they like and send a portfolio. Next, applicants will be invited to take tests - psychological and on the level of intelligence. Those who pass will be called for a series of interviews, usually three. I also have to go through all this: when I graduate from the master's program, I will look for a full-time job.

Young Koreans who have received a good education complain that it is difficult for them to find a job and are angry at the system. They have equally good education, internship experience in local and foreign companies, but there are not so many high-paying jobs on the market. There are plenty of less prestigious jobs. The official unemployment rate in South Korea is 3.3%.

Koreans work hard. In the standard vacancy they write that the working day is from 9:00 to 18:00. In fact, everyone is delayed, the employee cannot leave before his immediate supervisor. The normal situation is when a newcomer works until two in the morning, cheerfully arrives at 9:00 in the morning, and then still works on weekends.

South Korea has a hierarchical system: if you are older in age or position, you can manage the younger ones. This is especially noticeable in local companies where all employees are Korean. Usually leaders, people of the old school, chase the young: if they don’t like something, they will yell or even give a slap in the face.

After work, it is customary for men to drink with colleagues. On the eve of the day off, such companies will have fun all night: they will eat in one cafe, drink in another, then go to karaoke, then go to drink coffee. Men drink a lot, drinking on weekdays is considered normal. It is even surprising that Koreans consider Russians to be a more drinking nation. Korean vodka is called soju, its strength is 20%.

The increase depends on how many years you have been with the company. When applying for a job, the applicant is told when he can be promoted and what needs to be done for this: for example, pass some kind of qualifying exam. Usually increase after 3-4 years of work.

3 years

you need to work at least in a Korean company to get a promotion

Holidays in Korea are short: a maximum of 10 days, so everyone tries to relax on national holidays. On the Korean New Year, in February, they rest for 4-5 days. At the end of October - November, three dates are celebrated at once: Thanksgiving Day, the day of Korean writing and the day of the founding of the Korean state. Last year, these three holidays stood side by side and the whole country rested for 11 days.

taxes

Personal income tax is calculated and deducted from the salary by the employer. For employees working in Korean companies, the tax rate varies from 8 to 35% - depending on the amount of income.

Our academy retains 3.3% from foreigners. But if the annual salary is less than 24 million won per year, you can apply for a tax deduction.

Value added tax - 10%. It is indicated directly on the check.

Banks

About 10 large banks operate in Seoul, their offices can be found near any metro station. There are also local banks, such as the Busan Bank, but they are not particularly visible in Seoul.

Opening an account is easy. I did not choose a bank on purpose - I went to the first branch that came across, located on the campus of my university. I filled out an application and then they gave me a card. The design of the card can be pre-selected on the bank's website.

I use the so-called check card - this is an improved debit card. Unlike a regular Korean debit card, it can be used at any time, not just during bank business hours. A check card is accepted in all stores, and when paying, you do not need to enter a password. Service is free.

You can control your spending using a mobile application. In Korea, banks are obsessed with security: in order to pay for a purchase on the Internet, you need to verify your identity four times.

This is how I pay rent. I open the application, access to the account - by fingerprint. I enter the account number and the amount, confirm it again with a fingerprint. Then I enter the card pin and password from a special card. It is issued at the bank along with a debit card, this is a mandatory requirement for all banks in South Korea.

Buying something on the Internet in South Korea is terribly inconvenient, but you can not be afraid of scammers. I have never heard of someone stealing money from a card.

Paying with a card in a store is easy: in large cities everywhere there is a cashless payment. Unless the market may not accept the card if the seller is a Korean grandmother. Sometimes sellers ask you to pay in cash, but they can be refused.

Housing

It is easy for a foreigner to rent an apartment in Seoul, but decent housing is not cheap. As a rule, apartments are rented through real estate agencies - the metro is full of their offices. The agency will charge a commission for its services.

21 500 R

per month I pay for a one-room studio

The rental price depends on the size of the deposit: the larger it is, the less you pay per month. Therefore, in Korea, there are two ways to rent a home: wolsa, with a small deposit and regular monthly payments, and cheonse, with a huge deposit, about 90% of the cost of housing, but without monthly rental payments. In this case, you pay only for utilities. For apartment owners, this is beneficial, because they will put a huge amount of collateral into circulation.

Room. I lived in the dormitory of my university for a year and a half, I had a double room with a shower room and a toilet. Monthly rent cost 216,000 ₩ (11,600 R). Separately made a deposit - the amount of the monthly rent. It was returned when I checked out of the hostel, only a small amount was deducted for lost keys.

Students who do not have enough space in the dormitory rent "koshiwon" or "hasukchib". Koshiwon is a room in an apartment building designed like a dormitory. Khasukchib is a room in a private house where the hostess also prepares food.

Studio. Now I rent a studio apartment near the university. In Korea, such housing is called rooms. There are several types of them: "uanrum" (one room), "turum" (two rooms) and "ofistel" - studio apartments that can also be used as offices.

I have a oneroom. Singles live in such rooms, for example, a man who came to Seoul to work, or a nonresident student.

Prices depend on the area. In my area, close to Seoul University and civil service academies, there are many rental housing offers, so prices are lower. I pay 400,000 ₩ (21,500 R) per month for a oneroom. I pay separately for gas - 20,000 ₩ (1100 R) and electricity - 15,000 ₩ (800 R). I don't pay for water and internet. There is no central heating in Korea, apartments are heated with underfloor heating or air conditioning.

The rent of my one-room studio 3 years ago cost at 1,600,000 ₩ (86,500 R). I made a deposit - 1,000,000 ₩ (54,000 R), paid the first month - 400,000 ₩ (21,500 R) and gave 200,000 ₩ (11,000 R) commission to the agency.

Apartment. Renting an apartment is much more expensive. For example, an office flat with an area of ​​23 m² will cost 700,000 ₩ (37,000 R) per month, another 70,000 ₩ (3,600 R) will have to be paid for utilities. The problem is a huge deposit - 10,000,000 ₩ (520,000 R).

In such apartments live people who have already got a job, but have not yet started their own family.

520 000 R

deposit for one-room apartment in Seoul

It is convenient to search for an apartment through applications, the most popular are Zigbang and Da-bang. There you can filter offers by distance from the metro, rental amount, deposit, and so on.

Public transport

In Seoul, all transportation is very comfortable. It is cool in summer and warm in winter. In the subway, for example, heated seats.

In the Go Pyeongchang app, you can see the time and cost of the trip for all types of transport. It was released specifically for the Winter Olympics:

Unlike the Moscow Metro, each station has free clean toilets. The only negative is that you have to wait a long time for the train, 10-15 minutes. Unless it's rush hour, of course.

These vending machines sell transport cards. Travel money is put on the card. If you pay for the fare in cash, then each trip will be more expensive by 100 ₩ (5 R)

Buses. The trip is paid by transport card or in cash. Large bills will not be accepted - prepare money with a face value of 1000 or 5000 ₩. The price of a trip for 12 km is 1200 ₩ (63 R). The transfer system is very convenient. If you have made up to 3 transfers within half an hour (after 21:00 - within an hour), then you pay only 100 won.

Routes are color-coded. Green buses run short distances in one district. Blue buses pass through the city, connecting outlying areas. Red and yellow buses go to the suburbs.

Taxi. The trip is paid according to the meter. The price of a trip for 12 km is 10,700 ₩ (560 R). I rarely use a taxi, only when I'm traveling with friends.

Bicycles. A convenient bike rental service was launched in Seoul a couple of years ago, and the network is constantly expanding. We made a mobile application for rental. There you can see how many bikes are at a particular stop.

The first hour of rental costs 1000 ₩ (53 R), every subsequent half hour - the same amount.

Religion

In Korea, slightly more than half of the population are atheists, in second place are Protestants, and in third place are Buddhists. Therefore, the first thing that may surprise you in Seoul is a huge number of churches that do not differ in outstanding architecture. Often a church is an ordinary building, sometimes even a residential one, over which a cross rises.

In Seoul there are churches of different directions of Protestantism. The believers want to expand their parish, so they preach in the streets. Representatives of the church can be met in the subway, on the streets near churches, at train stations and in tourist places even at universities. Often they walk the subway cars with exclamations that it is time for everyone to believe in God.

If you decide to talk to a preacher, they will tell you that you speak Korean perfectly, they will offer you coffee and talk about problems and your life in Korea. If you listen to the end, they will begin to explain the philosophy of Protestantism to you and invite you to the service. For the coffee that you were offered, at the end of the conversation you will be asked to pay.

Therefore, I advise you to immediately answer obsessive preachers that you are busy or in a hurry.

School

Studying in South Korea is stressful.

As in Russia, children go to school from the age of 7. In Korea, age is considered differently, so in Korean it is 8 years. Education takes 12 years: elementary school - 6 years, secondary - 3 years, senior - 3 years.

Koreans study from morning to evening. After classes, they do their homework - right there, at school - and then go to additional lessons at the so-called academies. These are small private schools where they teach playing the piano and guitar, foreign languages, and additionally study school subjects.

Parents try to load their children to the maximum, so schoolchildren return home at 11-12 pm. On the one hand, parents understand that this is very difficult for children. On the other hand, sitting at home and doing nothing is not accepted in Korea. Koreans are dependent on other people's opinions: if the son of a mother's friend learns to play a musical instrument and additionally studies two foreign languages, then your child should also be enrolled in some courses.

As a rule, in primary and high school Koreans go to public schools. They are free, except for additional services. In high school, they try to send the child to a private school - if the family, of course, has money. In Seoul, foreign language schools are considered the most prestigious, they are paid, there is a big competition.

12 years

studies in a regular Korean school

The main goal of an ambitious high school student is to pass the state exam with a decent grade and enter a good university. This is the only way to get a well-paid job in a large corporation - in Samsung or Hyundai. If the student did not pass the exam as well as he wanted, he can wait a year and take the exam again. So do many.

university

Higher education is paid. At Seoul National University, the cheapest departments are the Humanities, Law, and Management Departments. The cost of annual education is 2,611,000 ₩ (137,000 R). The most expensive faculties are veterinary and pharmaceutical, 4,650,000 ₩ (244,000 R) per year. Keep in mind that this is a state university, so the cost of education here is several times lower than other universities.

137 000 R

worth a year of study at Seoul National University in the humanities

Most universities in South Korea are private. To study completely free of charge, you need to receive a scholarship from a foundation or corporation. It is necessary to pass a series of tests and serious interviews, few manage to be among the lucky ones.

In all of South Korea, only about ten universities are considered prestigious. For the top three universities, the Koreans came up with the designation SKY, according to the first letters of the names: Seoul National University (Seoul National University), Korea University (Koryo University), and Yonsei University (Yonsei University). A Korean who wants to work in a large corporation will try to enter one of these three universities.

Many Koreans, especially men, finish university late - it's normal to study until the age of 30 in Korea. Study is delayed because of the army: it is customary to leave for service after the first or second year. The service takes 2 years. It is impossible to mow down: bribes do not exist, and, most importantly, the Koreans themselves are suspicious of those who have not served.

Even among students, it is customary to take academic leave and go abroad for internships - for six months or a year. They do this to increase their value in the eyes of the employer. To do this, Koreans collect portfolios - they receive certificates of proficiency in computer programs, improve their second foreign language, pass TOEIC - an exam for the level of English proficiency, which is required in all companies without exception. In this test, you can earn a maximum of 990 points. A good score is 850 points or more. In "Samsung" and "Hyundai" they accept with results from 900 points.

Medicine

Medical insurance is optional for foreigners. For example, I don’t have it, no one has ever asked about it. Nevertheless, I am going to apply for it, because medical services are expensive. The insurance will cover from 40 to 70% of the amount of treatment, and in case of hospitalization, the insurance will pay 80% of the costs.

So far, I know that the monthly cost of insurance for working foreigners depends on the size of the salary. The amount of earnings - at least 280,000 ₩ (15,000 R) - is multiplied by the insurance premium rate - 5.08%. An employee who earns 1.5 million ₩ (80,000 R) per month will pay 76,200 ₩ (4,000 R) for insurance every month. Half of the amount is compensated by the employer.

It is better to take out insurance as soon as you arrive in Korea. I did not do it in time, and now I will be charged contributions for all the months that I spent in the country. If you are going to Korea to study, you can negotiate with the university to arrange insurance for you.

All hospitals in South Korea are private, the largest are located at universities. They have a lot of Russian patients - they come to be examined or treated for serious illnesses, such as cancer. Usually institutions have centers for foreigners with a staff of translators.

I went to more budget clinics. Recently, in a large medical center, I did an ultrasound of the abdominal cavity - without insurance I paid 167,400 ₩ (9000 R), another 30,000 ₩ (1600 R) cost a doctor's appointment.

9000 R

I paid at the clinic for an abdominal ultrasound

With a cold, she turned to therapists in small private hospitals - there are many of them near the metro. The doctor examined me, wrote out a prescription for pills, I paid for it and took the medicine. No need to pre-register - just come and wait for your turn. I paid about 30,000 ₩ (1500 R) for a doctor's appointment and pills.

In Seoul, 24-hour pharmacies operate only in certain areas, the rest close at 18:00. Without a prescription, you can buy the simplest medicines, vitamins and ointments.

Hospitals are also closed after 18:00, except for emergency rooms. Koreans are ideal patients. In a situation where we will call an ambulance, they will go to the hospital themselves, in their car or taxi. I saw an ambulance on the streets only a few times.

Koreans often use droppers, including for minor ailments. There are even special droppers for hangovers. A cold can be cured with an injection if you see a doctor when the first symptoms appear.

Oriental medicine is popular among the older generation, where they are treated, for example, with acupuncture. Older people often go not to ordinary clinics, but to an oriental medicine clinic.

Cellular and Internet

Communication services in Korea are expensive. For 2 GB of Internet, 100 messages and 200 minutes of calls per month, I pay 43,000 ₩ (2300 R).

2300 R

per month I pay for mobile communications

Buying a sim card is the most difficult thing that I had to do during my life in Seoul. Although you just need to come to the cellular office and conclude an agreement. The difficulty is that you will be asked for a foreigner's card, and its registration takes time. I was able to buy a SIM card only 3 weeks after my arrival - all this time I was without communication.

Foreigners can use prepaid sim cards - they are easy to buy but very expensive. For example, a sim card for 5 days costs $28 (1600 R) - this amount includes 100 minutes of calls to local numbers and unlimited internet.

Communication quality in Korea is good. All operators have mobile applications where you can control the balance, view the remaining minutes, connect and disconnect services.

There are no problems with home Internet: as a rule, it is already connected to a rented apartment and is included in the rental price.

In large cities, it is easy to connect to Wi-Fi, there are open networks in all public places, even in hospitals. In the metro, each telecom operator has its own Wi-Fi - only subscribers can connect to it.

Products and food

In Korea, the cult of food. You can’t skip meals, you must definitely have breakfast, lunch and dinner, preferably at the same time. At work, even the busiest employees take a break for lunch. It is customary to dine with colleagues, in canteens or cafes.

The basis of Korean dishes is rice and kimchi, spicy pickled cabbage. All dishes are spicy. Koreans have two main seasonings - pepper powder and pepper paste, they are added everywhere. When I moved, it was the hardest thing for me to adapt to spicy food.

In a traditional Korean restaurant, free snacks will be brought to order - kimchi, sprouted soy sprouts, pickled radish, spicy oden - a Japanese snack made from fishmeal. Korean-style carrots, which are popular in Russia, have not been heard of in Korea, they are served only in Russian or Uzbek restaurants.

Traditional Korean dish Bibimbap. Usually, hot sauce is served separately, so the dish is loved by foreigners who are not yet accustomed to spicy Korean food. It costs from 6000 ₩ (320 R)
There are many cafes in Korea with healthy salads. The most popular salad, especially among girls, is with salmon and avocado, it costs 11,000 ₩ (590 R)

After eating, Koreans always drink coffee. There are many coffee houses in Seoul - you will find 4-5 establishments near any exit from the subway. There is always a Starbucks near the metro, where there are almost never empty seats, especially at lunchtime. Americano at Starbucks costs 4100 ₩ (220 R), in other network coffee shops - 3500-4500 ₩ (190-240 R).

I buy products in supermarkets, there is a large selection. I try to go shopping at Costco - this is an American chain. It's cheaper than Korean supermarkets and more European food.

Of the usual products, I can’t find cottage cheese, it can be difficult to find hard cheese - it is sold only in large stores and costs much more than in Russia.

The prices in the supermarket are:

• Skimmed milk, 1 l - 2400 ₩ (128 R).
• Cucumbers, 5 pcs. - 1980 ₩ (105 R).
• Carrots, 4 pcs. - 1980 ₩ (105 R).
• Chicken breast, 400 g - 6000 ₩ (320 R).
• Bananas, branch - 3980 ₩ (212 R).
• Eggs, 30 pieces - 3480 ₩ (185 R).

In the hypermarket, you can issue a bonus card - in Korean “point-khady”, from the English point card. Then with each purchase you will return a certain percentage of the amount in points. You can use bonuses when buying movie tickets, cosmetics, and other things and thus save. If you are going to Korea for a long time, I advise you to get such cards immediately upon arrival and register them in the application. Then, when buying, you can only show an electronic barcode.

Sometimes I go to the markets. Thrifty housewives come here for fresh meat and fish, vegetables and fruits, national pickles. Prices here are much lower than in supermarkets. Markets are usually located in the depths of the residential area, they are difficult to find.

An application that stores information about my bonus cards. Bonus programs in Korea are very popular

Entertainment and recreation

Korean families love to spend time in parks. There are many of them in Seoul, the most popular place is the park area along the Hangang River. Here you can ride bicycles and book an excursion along the river. The cheapest excursion during the day costs 15,000 ₩ (800 R). At noon, you can board a boat with a buffet - it costs 39,000 ₩ (2100 R).

The tour can be booked on the website of the cruise company.

But the main attraction in the park is to sit on the banks of the river, order fried chicken and beer and enjoy. For such leisure, a special name was even invented - "chimek", it combines the words "chicken" and "beer". Chimek and picnics in general are fun for spring or autumn. Companies spread blankets on the lawn, take out or order food and communicate: they chat, watch videos, play, drink. You can bring a tent with you and relax in it - as if you left the city for nature.

Shopping is another popular holiday option with family or friends. Large cities are full of shopping centers with restaurants, bars, cinemas - you can spend the whole day in the mall.

Baths and saunas are popular in Seoul, they go with family or friends - mostly middle-aged people relax like this. A simple option with showers and a shared bath costs 10-15 thousand won (550-800 R) on weekdays and 15-20 thousand won (800-1000 R) on Saturday. There are entire spas where you can order a massage or a mask. There are also bathhouses where you can stay overnight. This option is often chosen by travelers who do not want to spend money on a hotel. Just sleep on the floor.

Schoolchildren and junior students spend time in Internet cafes playing computer games. "Peesi-ban", or computer rooms, work until late at night. Often they have their own cafes - to order food, you don’t even have to get up from your chair.

Middle-aged and older Koreans love to go to the mountains. Wherever you are in South Korea, there will always be a small mountain nearby that you can climb.

If there are several days off, they often go to neighboring provinces: to Gangwon-do, the famous beautiful nature, and to Jeju Island - the most popular resort in South Korea.

You can go abroad for three days. Most popular destination- Japan. There is a visa-free regime for Koreans, you can get there by boat, so the trip turns out to be quite budgetary. You can also travel cheaply to China.

If there is a lot of money and vacation days, most often they go to America or the countries of Western Europe. They especially love France, every Korean girl dreams of spending Honeymoon in Paris.

Beauty and plastic surgery

Korean women take good care of themselves. They always dye, curl or straighten their hair, change the image every two months - of course, if they can afford it. Even the garbage will not be thrown away without cosmetics - this is about them.

Seoul has a huge selection of hairdressers and beauty salons. I make an appointment for a haircut in the Cocoa Hairshop app. I choose a hairstyle, master, date and immediately pay for the service.

A perm costs 182,000 ₩ (10,000 R), a haircut - 72,000 ₩ (3,800 R), a perm with a restoration procedure and a haircut "My Dear Hair" costs 266,000 ₩ (14,000 R). Koreans like to give services unusual long names, such as "A perm that will make your boyfriend open his wallet."

I go to small salons near the metro for a manicure. Manicure with gel polish costs from 40,000 ₩ (2100 R). Some hairdressers offer a cash deposit - from 200,000 ₩ (10,500 R) - and for this they seriously reduce the price, by about 30%. This is called "haewon kaip" and literally means "get a membership" in the salon. Try it if you are going to Korea for a long time.

3800 R

worth a haircut in the Cocoa Hairshop app

Beauty salons often offer sets: two services are combined and give an impressive discount. You can also buy a discount coupon for several visits - such promotions are often held when new salons open. For example, I bought a coupon for three visits to the salon, each visit included a haircut and spa treatment. The coupon cost 120,000 ₩ (6400 R), while one visit to the salon would cost 90,000 ₩ (4800 R), 40,000 ₩ (2100 R) for a haircut and 50,000 ₩ (2700 R) for a spa treatment.

Appearance in Korea plays a huge role. Beauty is the guarantor of success and high salary. Appearance is taken into account when applying for a job and is often a decisive factor. Attractive foreigners with blond hair and blue eyes can easily find jobs in South Korea - the demand for such models is huge.

Therefore, plastic surgery in Korea is as common as beauty treatments. The Koreans took the European type of face as an ideal: big eyes, a straight high nose, a V-shaped chin, a small oval face - the size of a fist, as the Koreans say. Operations that help reshape the face to this standard are the most popular.

1000 $

there is an operation to change the shape of the eyelids in South Korea. It is much cheaper than in Russia or in the USA

At the end of school, parents give their girls an operation - to make a crease on the eyelid so that the eyes appear larger.

Another popular operation is to change the shape of the face. Korean women break their cheekbones to make their chin triangular, in the shape of a V.

South Korea is considered one of the capitals of plastic surgery. Thousands of companies offer tours to Seoul to beauticians and surgeons. It seems to me that this is the result of the so-called Korean wave, when Korean music and series became popular in Asian countries. The girls who watched them wanted to look like popular actresses - and Korean surgeons came up with a solution.

Plastic surgery in Korea is much cheaper than in Europe or America. In Korea, blepharoplasty - an operation to change the shape of the eyelids - costs about $ 1,000, while in America you will have to pay at least $ 6,000.

Language and communication

The Korean language is based on the alphabet - only 44 letters, Chinese characters are very rarely used. The main difficulty lies in the abundance of sounds that are not in the Russian language. Even in the Korean alphabet, there are two letters "o", "e" and "n" - it is difficult to distinguish them.

I first came to Korea when I was in my second year, by that time I had studied Korean for two years at Moscow State University - they emphasized the study of grammar, so I did not understand the language well and did not speak well. I could say simple phrases: "How much does it cost", "It's delicious", "It's spicy", but I could not get a sim card and explain myself at the immigration center. It was only after studying in Korea for a year that I began to feel confident in everyday situations.

In major cities, you can find free Korean language courses. Volunteers work there, so I'm not sure that you can learn the language well this way. In addition, there are programs for the adaptation of immigrants in Seoul, and a center for supporting multicultural families. In particular, foreigners are taught the Korean language, told about traditions, explained how to behave in shops, banks and solve other everyday issues.

If you know English, you will have no problems in the tourist places of South Korea. At the airport, all the signs and signs are duplicated in English; in the metro, stations are announced in four languages. But English will not help in solving everyday issues: in general, Koreans do not speak this language well, because they learn, first of all, grammar and writing.

Cultural differences

During my life in Korea, I got used to the fact that employees in the service sector are polite and friendly. I have never felt uncomfortable because I am a foreigner or maybe somehow not dressed like that. Here they will always offer to sit down, drink tea, bring a pillow.

But this standard courtesy extends to personal relationships as well. Koreans never show their emotions. When you meet someone, it's hard to understand what the person really thinks of you. If a Korean does not like something, he will never say it directly. But behind your back it will definitely be discussed.

Life in Korea is a competition in all areas. I have many Korean friends, but, for example, in graduate school, I did not make friends with anyone. From the point of view of a Korean, every student is a rival. You will be treated well only if you are completely immersed in your studies and go everywhere with a teacher. If you work and because of this sometimes you have less time than others, they will try not to contact you.

Koreans are very dependent on other people's opinions. I see this from my acquaintances: if they find out that a friend has a new car or a new good job, they will worry and try to catch up with them. You can’t sit still: you need to study more, earn more, get the most prestigious job, buy a good apartment and a car. It's contagious - I also got involved in this race.

What is the result

I have been living in Seoul for the fourth year already, and I plan to continue to stay here. In Seoul, convenient transportation, a developed service sector, you can get a good education and find a decent job.

Cultural leisure (two trips to the cinema and two visits to exhibitions)

50 000 ₩ (2700 Р )

1 130 000 ₩ (60 400 Р )

If you are planning to study in South Korea or move here to live, then first of all I advise you to learn the language. It’s better not to go with a zero level: it will be too difficult to adapt. You also need to be prepared for the fact that sometimes they will look at you or even discuss you, especially if you have blond hair. Koreans who have not been abroad have a million stereotypes about Europeans - this can make communication difficult or even nullify.

Think a hundred times if you want to raise your children in the stress of an endless struggle - first for a place in kindergarten, and then for a place in the office.

If all this does not scare you, you know Korean well, and ideally also English, are ready to work hard and easily adapt to a new culture, then welcome.

About why in South Korea it is better to be a foreigner than a citizen of the republic, why the curlers on the head of the chairman of the Constitutional Court of South Korea are not at all an accident, and how it happened that a sectarian became the president of the country - read the blog.

Anna Lee 25 years old, Distortion Magazine journalist, traveler without the skill to take "beautiful photos".

In 2015, I was graduating from university, sending out resumes to the masters of office plankton, hoping to forget the meaning of the word freelancer, and dreaming of a summer in Barcelona. And then she fell in love. In Korean. After going through all the stages of denial and resigned to the fact that this is the greatest love on Earth, I moved to South Korea. Now I live in Seoul, I study the Korean language and try very hard not to go bankrupt in the shops treacherously scattered around the city with.

South Korea is a mono-ethnic country with a Confucian heritage that has made an impressive leap from a poor agrarian state to a high-tech post-industrial republic, and in doing so has created the so-called "economic miracle on the Han River."

These factors had a tremendous impact on the formation of the mentality and way of life of the inhabitants of the Korean Peninsula, and for me, a person in love with Europe, life in Korea has become a revelation in many ways. I have been living here for less than a year and a half, and perhaps my “glasses” are still rosy before my eyes, but I can’t help but feel that being a foreigner in is great, and sometimes even better than a citizen of the Republic of Korea squeezed into a strict hierarchical culture.

ATTITUDE TO UKRAINIANS AND OTHER FOREIGNERS

First of all, it is impossible not to notice that in South Korea you find yourself among Asian faces. 98% of the inhabitants of the republic are Koreans, and it would be very hard for me if they turned out to be racists. It is obvious that Koreans are nationalists who adore their country, but their nationalism, as a rule, does not translate into aggressive attacks towards other peoples. If we talk about how hanguks (South Koreans) relate to wiguks (foreigners), it is important to clarify which ones. The "most beloved" foreigners are Americans. Everything related to the USA is considered cool, young people dream of studying in America or going there for an internship, because with such data in the resume, a well-paid job in their homeland is provided.Inserting an English word into Korean is, again, considered cool. A Korean of any age speaks a certain set of English words, but many hanguks are still too shy to speak English.

The "most beloved" foreigners are Americans. But, in principle, all English-speaking foreigners for Koreans are very valuable friends, because thanks to communication they will help to improve their conversational speech and the peculiar pronunciation of “Koringlish”.

But South Koreans treat immigrants from poorer Asian countries with arrogance - as if they were cheap labor. The Japanese are not digested at all, as they remember the cruel period of the occupation, but, of course, no one speaks openly about this. The so-called ethnic Koreans scattered around the world are treated differently. Someone - as to their lost brothers, someone - already as to another people. Language proficiency also influences attitudes. The older generation does not understand how a Korean, even if born in another country, can not know Korean. Young people often do not know at all what kind of ethnic Koreans they are, living abroad.

In short, in 1860, the Opium Wars ended between the Chinese Empire and European countries. The Beijing Treaty was signed, according to which the Russian Empire had a border with Korea at the expense of former Chinese lands. At that time, a terrible famine raged on the Korean Peninsula, so the Koreans began to cross into the territories of Russia and China due to lack of land and food. A new wave of emigration occurred as a result of the Japanese occupation of 1910, and 1937, known in the post-Soviet space as the time of the most brutal wave of repression, was also the year of the deportation of ethnic Koreans who inhabited the Russian Empire and then the USSR from that same 1860, to the steppes of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan which alienated them even more from their historical homeland. In the USSR, Koreans were subjected to a policy of Russification, which is why many ethnic Koreans do not know the Korean language.

My husband works in a Canadian bar in a foreigner's area, and next to the American base, so 95% of the customers are English-speaking guys, the staff also communicates in English. Once a Korean came to the bar, drank too much and made a real scandal: “Why does everyone speak English here ?! This is Korea, speak Korean!”, tried to climb onto the bar and actively waved his ID. As it turned out, the man was an employee of the district immigration office. It hurts a person, it happens.

Everyone has heard about Ukraine, but the depth of knowledge is the same as that of the average Ukrainian about Zimbabwe.

They know that Ukrainians play football well, they know about the revolution and the war in the east of the country. Recently, they asked if strawberries are grown in Ukraine and “what they feed you with”, hinting at the beauty of Ukrainian women.

BEAUTY IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS IN SOUTH KOREA

My great-grandfather was Asian, so many new acquaintances often ask if I'm half Korean. I collect compliments due to the double eyelid, on which “there is so much room for shading the shadows”, and white skin - she was especially “checked out” by the saleswoman in the jewelry store, where I chose the ring: “God, such pens! White-white." I'm sorry I can't convey the tone. Although Korean women use whitening creams, many have a neck and body that are still darker than their faces. In Ukraine, I had the opposite problem: even the lightest foundation in the European line of decorative cosmetics was always several tones darker than my neck. It was generally unrealistic to get a tan, but in Korea, it turns out, it’s no longer necessary. Here in the summer women walk around with umbrellas, smear themselves impenetrable and bathe in the sea dressed.

South Korea is a country where you have to be beautiful to be successful. And only then smart, and even better - diligent: here perseverance is valued above the mind.

Beauty standards in Korea are quite strict and detailed: snow-white skin, double eyelids, wide straight eyebrows, small lips, high nose bridge, V-shaped chin, weakly pronounced cheekbones, bulging forehead, skull (the shape of the top of the head should also be rounded), small face ( “you have a face like a cam” is an awesome compliment), and of course, harmony - all this applies to both girls and guys. The ideal height for a girl is 170, for a guy - 180 cm and above, in addition, a pumped-up body for men is an unconditional plus. Most Korean celebrities and idols meet these requirements, among Korean female celebrities, actresses Jung Ji Hyun and Go Ara, singers Sulli, Song Na Eun, Kim Yura can be an example. Among the handsome boys: Kim Soo Hyun, Lee Hong Bin, Kim Jin Woo, T.O.P.

Everyone who works on television is beautiful. Who is not beautiful - that clown, that is, a comedian. And all because South Korea is a country in which, in order to be successful, you need to be beautiful. And only then smart, and even better - diligent: here perseverance is valued above the mind. Therefore, parents give gifts to children for birthdays, both women and men use cosmetics, and fashion trends turn into the uniform of Korean shopaholics.A foreigner is easy to recognize, even if he has an Asian appearance: visitors are not dressed in Korean fashion. For a Korean, fashion is above style, if something is fashionable― so everyone wears it.

POLITICAL SCANDAL AND CURLS

If I got used to short pants and oversized clothes back in Kyiv, then I still can’t put up with the fashion for curlers. Today is like thisthat it is fashionable to wear a thin, slightly twisted bang, and in order for this bang to be perfect, Korean women twist it on curlers and, confident in their irresistibility, go everywhere like that. Curlers for bangs are sold individually as decoration: if you want - with rhinestones, if you want - with flowers. Curlers were even involved in politics.

No one could have imagined that a sect would replace the president's family, and that state decisions would be made under the influence of fortune-tellers and mystical rituals.

On March 10, I followed the news about the impeachment of the President of the Republic of Korea and saw the news about the President of the Constitutional Court, Lee Chung Mi, who came to the meeting with two pink curlers on the back of her head. In general, at first I decided that this was a new round of fashion, and the curlers moved from the bangs to the back of the head. But it turned out that the chairman was so absorbed in thinking about the announcement of the verdict that she simply forgot to take off the curlers. The reaction of the Koreans themselves is interesting: instead of sexist banter, they dubbed Judge Lee Chung Mi a “symbol of hard work” - they say, they were not thinking about themselves, they were thinking about the fate of the country. This, of course, pleases, because the already former Park Geun Hye is called a “chicken”, and this is perhaps the mildest of what has been said about her in recent months.

Meanwhile, Park Geun Hye's life is worthy of a detective novel. Her father, Park Chung-hee, was the dictatorial president of Korea from 1963-79. During another attempt on his life by a North Korean agent in 1974, his wife was shot dead, and in 1979 Park Chung-hee himself was killed by the director of the South Korean CIA, who was tired of the constant pressure of the sovereign.

In her youth, Park Geun-hye fell under the influence of Choi Tae-min's "Ensenge" sect, which combined elements of Christianity and traditional shamanism, and his daughter, Choi Sun-sil, became the best friend of the future president. The scandal erupted when journalists discovered a tablet with secret documents, and further investigation showed that Chae Sun-sil edited the president's speech, thereby determining the direction of the country's politics, military strategy and national security, pulled off corruption schemes, extorting millions of dollars from the largest companies, including Samsung and Hyundai, and performed shamanistic rites at the Blue House (presidential residence). In general, not a friend, but "Rasputin in a skirt." During the last presidential campaign, Park Geun-hye promised to devote herself to serving Korea, since she had no parents, no husband, no children, and the Koreans, who remembered what a dictator her father was, were convinced that the daughter was not responsible for the actions of her father. answer. Then no one could have imagined that a sect would replace a woman's family, and state decisions would be made under the influence of fortune-tellers and mystical rituals. But this amazing story is not so amazing, given the mentality of Koreans, who easily fall under the influence of charismatic individuals or the majority.

THE REVERSE SIDE OF LIFE IN SOUTH KOREA: SECTS AND SUICIDES

Christianity is spreading rapidly in Korea. Catholic, Protestant, Baptist and even Orthodox churches host more than 30% of the total population of South Korea within their walls. There are also plenty of near-Christian sects collecting considerable sums from parishioners waiting for the Second Coming. At the same time, the older generation does not disdain the services of shamans and fortune-tellers. Look into tarot cards before making an important decision, marriage or business deal.― normal, but expensive practice.

Koreans have built one of the most high-tech, safe and comfortable countries to live in. A country in which the Koreans themselves sometimes find it so unbearable to live.

Nevertheless, Confucian philosophy is still strong in Korea with such concepts as humanity, a sense of duty, justice, morality, observance of customs, attentiveness, unity, honoring parents, respect and submission to a subject - the sovereign, son - father, wife - husband, younger - senior. Combined with hard work, a focus on potentially progressive sectors of the economy, and "development loans", the Koreans have built one of the most high-tech, safe and comfortable countries to live in. A country in which the Koreans themselves sometimes find it so unbearable to live. South Korea ranks first in suicide rates among advanced economies year after year. This is the other side of Confucianism and a hierarchical society with shifting values, in which everything is decided by position and money. Childhood is spent in cramming, marriages are made by calculation without a drop of love, and appearance is more important than mind and inner content.

According to statistics, 42 people voluntarily die a day.

The history of the Seoul Mapo is indicative - the bridge, which has gained a terrible reputation due to its proximity to the business center of the capital. In South Korea, one of the most. Deprived of the meaning of life (read - money), Koreans go to the bridge after unsuccessful deals or dismissals. And if you don’t have the courage to jump into the Han River, then there is a twitter where “kind” people cynically offer to buy a reliable way to die. For only $1,000, you can purchase a sealed tent and a bottle of sleeping gas. According to statistics, 42 people voluntarily die a day. Foreigners, on the other hand, fall out of this terrible system, the requirements for veguks are minimal - to be law-abiding and comply with social norms.

WHAT'S GOOD IN SOUTH KOREA?

At the same time, Koreans are very polite people, and they are friendly even to strangers: they will cover with their umbrella if the rain is taken by surprise, they will tell the “lost” how to find a street or attraction, and if there is time, they even spend it. The Korean service, also known as "social security", deserves special delight: my nature, greedy for freebies, rejoices every day. When I order food in a cafe, I get a few Korean snacks or soup with “social security”, in cosmetic stores my “social security” and samplers of popular products, a protective film, case or portable battery is attached to the smartphone with “social security”. By the way, about a trifle: in Korea it is not customary to give a tip, as the waiter receives a decent salary thanks to the employer and does not depend on the visitor's generosity. I don’t have to rack my brains, as it was in Kyiv, how many percent of the bill should be left as a tip to the waiter, who, with his royal presence, was clearly doing me a favor.

The Korean service, also known as "social security", deserves special admiration. And the feeling of comfort, care for people living in Korea is the first thing you notice already at the airport.

The feeling of comfort, care for people living in Korea is the first thing you notice first on the scale of Incheon Airport (every year it receives the title of “Best Airport in the World”), and then in various, completely optional, but pleasant little things. The first time I saw a map of the Seoul subway, I was horrified: 9 lines, more than 300 stations are scattered not only in the capital, but throughout the Gyeonggi-do district, how can you even remember this? But it turned out not to be necessary, because it is enough to have an application with a metro map and not be color blind. The Koreans built a special Airport Railroad line, which is a bit more expensive than all the subways, but will take you from the suburbs to the heart of Seoul in just over an hour. In winter, heated seats are turned on in the metro, in summer - air conditioning, some cars are equipped with special places for luggage, the last three places on the sides of the car are for old people, each extreme place at the door is for pregnant women. No “give way to a woman in position / grandfather / grandmother” is heard here. And in general it is not customary to give way to old people: they are all cheerful, youthful here - they can be offended.

There are toilets at every metro station: huge, clean, free of charge, in all booths there is an “SOS” button, if you suddenly get sick and need help. The women's toilets have a separate wall with a mirror and a table, sometimes there are armchairs, and some metro stations even have separate rooms so that girls can fix their makeup and not interfere with others washing their hands or brushing their teeth (this is normal).

And Korea is mountains and hills. I live at the foot of Seoul's Namsan Mountain, and it took me a couple of weeks to stop panting on my way home on a critical 50-degree slope. And to the fears from the long list of “because of what I could die” was added a car breaking off the handbrake. But what beautiful views! And minus 2 centimeters from the hips in the first month.

FOOD IN SOUTH KOREA: DO KOREANS EAT DOGS?

And finally - about the favorite food of Koreans. No, not about dogs. Not so easy to get to them, besides, they recently closed the last market selling dog meat. In Seoul, I have not seen a single restaurant serving dog meat. They say she is expensive, and mostly older men eat her for potency. The favorite food of Koreans, practically their property, is kimchi: fermented vegetables, most often Beijing cabbage with red pepper, dried anchovies and other seasonings. There is a kimchi museum in Seoul: this sauerkraut has already flown into space, and many Koreans are happy owners of separate kimchi refrigerators, made, of course, specially and exclusively for storing kimchi. Imagine if Ukraine did the same for pickles. Cucumber Fridge! Cucumber in space! Well, come on, my favorite type of kimchi is the one that doesn't make me cry (i.e., with an acceptable concentration of red pepper). And it’s also very tasty if you fry kimchi.

In Seoul, I have not seen a single restaurant serving dog meat. In fact, Koreans' favorite food is kimchi.

But most of all, I was surprised that at the Incheon airport, in front of the control of documents and personal belongings, there is a huge poster forbidding the export of kimchi and seasonings for its preparation from Korea! In general, there is nothing to do, if you want kimchi - fly in for a visit!

Surely you will also be interested: brave Julia talks about beauty standards in China, the ambiguous attitude of the Chinese towards foreigners, whom they call "laowai", and the shocking details of life in what was once one of the most closed countries in the world.

South Korea - mysterious country. Not as mysterious as its neighbor, North Korea, but still, many moments of life in this country remain a mystery to a European person. Anastasia Lilienthal lived in South Korea for 5 years and shared her experience of living in this country with newslab.ru.

How to get to South Korea?

All her life the girl lived in Krasnoyarsk and did not even plan to move somewhere. She studied at the university to be an accountant. At the same time, she was drawn into the Krasnoyarsk anime party.

“I went to cosplay, sing songs, dance, and it all ended with my favorite dance team Tiramisu. I graduated from the university with a red diploma and a presidential scholarship, got a job and worked for a month as an accountant. I quickly realized that such a job was definitely not for me, quit and thought about the future, ”says the girl.

The case helped - she received a letter from a friend of a professor who once taught Korean at a pedagogical university.

- He offered to go to study the language for six months in Korea. I agreed immediately - what did I have to lose? And so we, four Russian girl friends, came to study at the Busan Institute (this is the second largest South Korean city after Seoul). It was fun there, we learned the language, walked a lot, explored the city. I liked Korea so much that I decided to stay here. And she stayed, as you probably already understood, for a long time, - says Nastya.

A little later, she moved to another small town called Chungju. It looks more like a village: in the morning roosters sing, cows moo.

— There I studied language courses for a year in order to enter the master's program at the university. The hardest part was finding the money to pay for tuition. It suddenly turned out that within two days I had to transfer 10 thousand dollars to the university. I didn’t have them at that moment, but a familiar Korean helped me, who, on parole, simply borrowed this crazy amount. Of course, I soon returned everything to him. Here is a good example of mutual assistance in Korean, - says Nastya.

About studying in South Korea

Nastya says that studying is very different from the Russian education system.

- And to be honest, I am very glad that I studied in Russia. In Korea, students choose their own subjects, they have a certain number of hours in their specialty and additional hours. For example, if you have a specialty "programmer", you gain hours for yourself in programming, but you can sign up for Japanese, Chinese, go to "physical training" - tennis or badminton, - says Nastya.

There are no so-called seminars in Korea: after a lecture, you need to deal with the material on your own.

— Exams are usually all written, sometimes there are tests. There are no oral exams. I consider this a huge minus, because when applying for a job in a Korean company, you go through an interview, and many lack these oral communication skills on various complex topics, they often get into a mess, - the girl shares.

They are graded on a 100-point system, but you will never get 100 points. In Korea, there is a principle - a certain number of excellent students per class, for example, 30%. And it doesn’t matter that there are actually more excellent students - there is a percentage, and if you don’t get into it, then that’s it. Interestingly, it is not allowed to express a personal opinion at school, you can only quote someone else's position.

- Since I studied at the magistracy, we, on the contrary, had only “practices” instead of lectures. All classes were, of course, in Korean, no English. We once studied children's literature under the guidance of a rather elderly teacher. I was asked to make a report on the fairy tale about Ivan the Fool, and I wrote my personal opinion - I analyzed his actions, drew conclusions. When I read out the report, the teacher was simply shocked and gave the lowest mark, since I dared to express my opinion, and not what was written in the textbook. In Korea, it’s like that in everything - you don’t have your own opinion, but you should only do as society tells you, ”says Nastya.

About working in South Korea

All the years of her life in the country, the girl worked part-time at the same time. Sometimes in very specific jobs.

- Once I happened to work at the factory of "doshirak" - ready-made meals in packages! It was my first job, and the shifts there lasted 12 hours with a break for lunch. They checked me all the way down to my nails, so that they were trimmed and without manicure. Every half an hour they were forced to wash our hands in bleach (even though we worked with gloves), it was terrible. Everyone around seemed to be immured, from head to toe in overalls - boots, a suit, a cap, a mask, only the eyes are visible. And for me, and so the Koreans were all on the same face, so at the factory I generally only recognized them by their voices! Nastya shares.

During her life in South Korea, the girl worked as a barista, waitress, saleswoman.

— Got a job in the billiard room. It wasn't difficult either—wiping tables, serving bowls, counting customers, washing dishes, and vacuuming carpets. But most of all - for 4 years - I worked in a mini-market at the university. I worked the night shift as I studied during the day. I stood behind the cash register, arranged the goods, cleaned up, kept a record of products, - says Nastya.

Now she works where she can. Sometimes even a model.

- The minimum wage in Korea used to be 6,480 won (340 rubles), and in 2018 it was raised to 7,500 won per hour. But many shops cannot afford such a rate, usually pay less. It was the same with me, - says Nastya.

The five biggest differences between Russia and South Korea

First of all, Anastasia was surprised by the food.

- They dress salad with vegetables with yogurt, and fruit salad with mayonnaise :) There are a lot of fresh seafood that five minutes ago were swimming in front of your eyes, but now they are already moving in your plate. You won't see this in Russia! Cooking at home sometimes turns out to be even more expensive than eating in a diner, because food in Korea is really expensive. And the strangest thing is that their beef is fatter than pork! Because cows in Korea never graze on pastures. They just stand or lie in stalls all day long, that's all, - says Nastya.

And yes, dogs are also eaten in Korea.

Usually all people know about food in Korea is that it is spicy! And it is true. But living here, you get used to this sharpness. Many people are still surprised how Koreans eat all sorts of obscure larvae such as silkworms and dogs. It's true about dogs too. As far as I know, this has been going on since the time when Korea was occupied by the Japanese. They had nothing to eat, so they got to the dogs. It is also believed that dog meat helps with tuberculosis,” says the girl.

The second difference is respect for age.

- For us, age is just a number in the passport. In Korea, it is one of the most important aspects of life. At the first meeting with a Korean, he may not even ask your name, but he will definitely ask about your age, because the entire communication system is built on it. For example, you meet an interlocutor who is older than you - and you must show very great respect for him. Even if he is only a couple of months older than you! Let me give you an example (it is a bit shocking, but believe me, this is how it all happens!). Let's say two guys (one a little younger than the other) like the same girl. They both know about it and want to confess their feelings to her. So, until the elder proposes to the girl, the younger simply does not have the right to do it first. And it works! Nobody argues with grandparents here either - they are just kings in Korea. You listen and keep quiet.

But Korea is very safe. You can walk at night and not be afraid of anything.

“The crime rate here is very low. Therefore, even at one in the morning I can safely walk around the city, and all these years I have not been afraid to work in a minimarket at night. And here is an example of how the police work here. One evening, a company of Chinese people collected goods for a tidy sum, I calculated them, and after 20 minutes the police arrived. They asked me to show the recording from the cameras. It turned out that one Korean had lost his card, and they had just paid with it in this store. And they show me the time and the amount. Then they see the Chinese on the recording, they immediately punch them through the base and detain them. This is how crimes are revealed here at lightning speed.

Another funny difference is the public restrooms. It turned out that they are everywhere in South Korea.

“This is another indicator of how much the country has done for its people. We can say that compared to Korea, there are simply no public normal toilets in Russia. Here they are everywhere: at every metro stop, in any public place, park, shop, and so on. Wherever you feel like it, you can go to the toilet without fear and doubt. Normal, clean, decent. In Korea, usually everyone brushes their teeth in these toilets after dinner, and Korean women put on make-up in the morning and evening - there are clean and large mirrors there, ”the girl says.

Koreans have a different view of relationships. It is quite difficult for a foreigner to find friends in this country.

- Honestly, I have no real friends among Koreans and cannot be. Because guys see me as a girl, and Korean girls only see me as a rival. And in general, you won’t be able to just talk heart to heart with Koreans. They are very secretive and cunning people. Very closed. Of course, everyone has their own cockroaches, but Koreans, in principle, have a lot of psychological blocks and complexes. They are very dependent on other people's opinions, many have low self-esteem. That is why they have the highest suicide rate in the world,” says Nastya.

It's especially hard to make friends with guys.

- It’s also difficult for me to make friends among Korean guys, because if they have a girlfriend, then he has no right to be friends with me, even to talk. If he didn’t have a girlfriend and we communicated normally, and after he started a relationship, then that’s it, a friend immediately erases mine and in general all the girls’ contacts on the phone, can’t call or write to them. This is considered cheating. Korean couples are generally very fond of all sorts of romantic things - paired t-shirts, sneakers, rings. They can spend 24 hours together, as if sticking to each other. If you missed a call or SMS, get ready for a big quarrel. Lovers simply do not have personal space. There is a real romantic cult in Korea! All holidays are made for couples. On Valentine's Day, girls are required to give guys chocolate, and on March 14 (not 8!) It's the other way around - guys bring caramels and lollipops to girls, ”the girl shares.

The tragedy of a lifetime for a Korean is to be lonely. That is why everyone is constantly meeting with someone.

- If you do not have a status relationship, you are officially recognized as a loser, you are branded. In Korea, this is very important. And it doesn’t matter if you have a long relationship or you change them like gloves!

About nostalgia for Russia

Nastya admits that, despite 5 years spent in the country, she still feels like a stranger.

“I feel special here. In general, because of the appearance, because white. And it also depends on the generation. The older generation is not very fond of foreigners, and it does not matter if you are American, Russian or from Africa. And young people look at you, many try to speak English or help. In general, Koreans know very little about Russia. Nothing but “Putin, vodka, cold and Russian girls are the most beautiful,” says Nastya.

salaries in south korea

Of course, salaries in South Korea are an order of magnitude higher than in Russia, but the costs are also higher. The average Korean earns 3-5 thousand dollars (170-280 thousand rubles) a month, you can live here with this money. But by Russian standards, these salaries are at the level of 30-40 thousand rubles.

- For something, the prices are lower here, for example, for clothes, unless, of course, it is branded. Housing is expensive big cities(Seoul, Busan). Transport is also expensive, but you can transfer from one transport to another on one ticket, there are transport cards. Medicine here is very expensive, so Koreans carefully monitor their health, especially their teeth (they clean them after every meal). Entertainment is quite affordable, you can go somewhere to relax - to another city or abroad, - says the girl.

And in South Korea, they practically do not rest. Official vacation - only a week. And they don't have any pension. Therefore, often you can see taxi drivers-grandfathers in their 70s, and this is normal. Many grandmothers work in restaurants and markets. As a result, as Nastya says, the standard of living here is higher than in Russia. But life itself is not here, because the whole life of Koreans is held under the motto "make more money and achieve high status."

Nastya sometimes comes to Russia for a month or two. There are thoughts of returning, but for now she prefers to stay there.

North Korean stalls

The life of ordinary Koreans in the DPRK is protected from strangers, like a military secret. Journalists can only look at her from a safe distance - through the glass from the bus. And breaking through this glass is an incredibly difficult task. You cannot go to the city on your own: only with a guide, only by agreement, but there is no agreement. It took five days to persuade the escorts to take a ride to the center.

Taxis go to the center. Drivers are unspeakably glad to passengers - almost no one uses their services at the hotel. It is impossible for a foreigner to order a taxi in North Korea. They are taken to a shopping center on Kwang Bo Avenue - something like Novy Arbat in Moscow. The store is special - there are two red signs above the entrance. Kim Jong Il was here twice and Kim Jong Un came once. The shopping center resembles a typical Soviet Central Department Store: a three-story concrete cube with tall windows.

Inside, the atmosphere is like in the main department store of a small Russian city. There is a supermarket on the ground floor. There is a line at the checkout. There are many people, maybe even unnaturally many. Everyone is actively filling large carts with groceries.

Looking at the prices: a kilogram of pork 22,500 won, chicken 17,500 won, rice 6,700 won, vodka 4,900 won. If you remove a couple of zeros, then the prices in North Korea are almost the same as in Russia, only vodka is cheaper. Prices in North Korea are generally a strange story. The minimum wage for a worker is 1,500 won. A pack of instant noodles costs 6,900 won.

How so? I ask the translator.

He is silent for a long time.

Consider it so that we simply forgot about two zeros. Thinking, he replies.

local money

And in terms of prices, the official life of the DPRK does not get along with the real one. Won for foreigners: 1 dollar - 100 won, and the real rate is 8900 won per dollar. You can illustrate an example on a bottle of a North Korean energy drink - this is a non-carbonated ginseng decoction. In a hotel and in a store, it costs completely different money.

Local residents look at the prices in the store through the sight of the denomination. That is, subtract two zeros from the price tag. Or rather, adding two zeros to the salary. With this approach, the situation with salaries and prices is more or less normalized. And either noodles cost 69 won instead of 6900. Or the minimum wage for a worker is not 1,500 won, but 150,000 won, about $17. The question remains: who and what buys food carts in the shopping center. It looks like not workers and definitely not foreigners.

Foreigners in the DPRK do not use the local won currency. In the hotel, although prices are indicated in wons, you can pay in dollars, euros or yuan. Moreover, there may be such a situation that you pay in euros, and you receive change in Chinese money. North Korean money is banned. In souvenir shops you can buy old-style wons from 1990. Real wons are hard to find - but possible.

They differ only in the aged Kim Il Sung.

However, real money from the DPRK is of little use to a foreigner - sellers simply will not accept it. And it is forbidden to take national money out of the country.

Colorful dresses are sold on the second floor of the mall. On the third, the parents lined up in a tight formation at the children's play corner. The kids go down the slides and play with balls. Parents take pictures with their phones. The phones are different, quite expensive mobile phones of a well-known Chinese brand flicker in the hands a couple of times. And once I notice a phone that looks like a South Korean flagship. However, the DPRK knows how to surprise and mislead, and sometimes strange things happen - on an excursion to the red corner of a cosmetology factory, a modest guide suddenly flashes in his hands, it seems, an apple phone of the latest model. But it is worth taking a closer look - no, it seemed to be a Chinese device similar to it.

On the top floor there is a row of cafes typical for shopping malls: visitors eat burgers, potatoes, Chinese noodles, drink Taedongan light draft beer - one variety, no alternative. But filming is not allowed. Having enjoyed the abundance of people, we go out into the street.

Pyongyang on style

On the sidewalk, as if by chance, a new Lada is parked. Domestic cars are a rarity for the DPRK. Is it a coincidence - or the car was put here specifically for the guests.

People are walking along the street: many pioneers and pensioners. Passers-by are not afraid of video filming. A man and a woman, in their 40s, are holding a little girl by the hand. They say they are walking with their daughter. Koreans marry late - not earlier than 25-30 years.

A cyclist wearing black glasses and a khaki shirt drives by. Pass girls in long skirts. Girls in North Korea are banned from wearing miniskirts and skimpy outfits. The streets of Pyongyang are guarded by "fashion patrols". Elderly ladies have the right to catch fashionistas-violators and hand them over to the police. The only truly bright detail in the wardrobe of Korean women is a sun umbrella. They can even be garishly colorful.

Korean women love cosmetics. But basically it's not makeup, but skin care products. As elsewhere in Asia, face whitening is in vogue here. Cosmetics are made in Pyongyang. And the government is watching closely.

In the depths of the main cosmetics factory in Pyongyang, there is a secret rack. A hundred bottles and bottles: Italian shadows, Austrian shampoos, French creams and perfumes. "Forbidden", which you cannot buy in the country, is sent to the factory personally by Kim Jong-un. He demands that Korean cosmetics and perfumers take their cue from Western brands.

Men in Korea wear gray, black and khaki more often. Bright outfits are rare. In general, the fashion is the same. There are no those who clearly oppose themselves to others. Even jeans are illegal, only black or gray pants. Shorts on the street are also not welcome. And a man with piercings, tattoos, dyed or long hair is impossible in the DPRK. Decorations interfere with building a brighter future.

Other children

Another thing is North Korean children. Little residents of the DPRK do not look like boring adults. They wear all the colors of the rainbow. The girls are wearing pink dresses. The boys are wearing ripped jeans. Or a T-shirt with not a portrait of Kim Jong Il, but an American Batman badge. The children look like they have escaped from another world. They even talk about something else.

What do you like most about North Korea? - I ask the kid with Batman on the jacket. And I'm waiting to hear the names of the leaders.

The boy looks at me from under his brows, embarrassed, but suddenly smiles.

Toys and walk! - He says a little confused.

Koreans explain why kids look so bright and adults look so insipid. Toddlers do not impose serious requirements. Until school age, they can dress in anything. But from the first grade, children are taught to live the right life and explain how everything in the world works. Rules of behavior, way of thinking and adult dress code change their lives.

street life

There is a stall at the mall. Koreans buy DVDs with films - there are new items from the DPRK. There is a story about partisans, and a drama about an innovator in production, and a lyrical comedy about a girl who became a tour guide at the museum named after the great Kim Il Sung. DVD players are very popular in North Korea.

But flash drives with films banned by the party are an article. For example, South Korean TV series fall under the article. Of course, ordinary Koreans find such films and watch them on the sly. But the government is fighting it. And gradually transfers local computers to the North Korean analogue of the Linux operating system with its own code. This is so that third-party media cannot be played.

Snacks are sold at a nearby stall.

These buns are bought by workers during the break, - the saleswoman happily reports and holds out a bag of cakes resembling portions of shortbread cookies with jam.

Everything local, - she adds and shows the barcode on the package "86" - is made in the DPRK. On the counter is "pesot" - popular home-made pies, shaped like khinkali, but with cabbage inside.

The tram is coming to a stop. He is surrounded by a crowd of passengers. Behind the stop is a bicycle rental. In some ways, it is similar to Moscow.

One minute - 20 won. You can take a bike with such a token, - a pretty girl in the window explains the conditions to me.

Having said this, she takes out a thick notebook. And hands it to my translator. He writes in a notebook. Apparently, this is a catalog of registration of foreigners. A cyclist in black glasses and a khaki shirt is standing by the side of the road. And I realize that this is the same cyclist who passed me over an hour ago. He looks intently in my direction.

We have to go to the hotel, - says the translator.

Internet and Cellular

The Internet that is shown to foreigners resembles a local area network that used to be popular in residential areas. It connected several quarters, and there they exchanged films and music. Koreans do not have access to the global Internet.

You can access the internal network from your smartphone - there is even a North Korean messenger. But there is nothing special. However, cellular communications have only been available for residents of the country for only ten years.

The internal Internet of the DPRK is no place for fun. There are websites of state institutions, universities and organizations. All resources are reviewed by the Ministry of State Security. The DPRK does not have its own bloggers or truth-tellers on the Internet.

Memes, social networks, swearing in the comments are alien concepts of the capitalist world. I looked around different computer classes. Some work on Windows, some on Linux. But not a single computer can go online. Although the browsers there are well-known, and there is even a local DPRK browser. But search histories are not site names, but collections of IP addresses. Although the Internet for journalists is: global, fast and insanely expensive.

dog dinner

Koreans eat dogs. South Koreans are a little ashamed of this. But in the north they are proud of it. To all indignant remarks, they ask why eating a dog is worse than eating a beef cutlet, pork kebab or lamb soup. Goats, sheep and cows are also cute pets. As are dogs.

For Koreans, dog meat is not only exotic, but also healing. According to tradition, it was eaten in the heat, in the midst of field work "to expel heat from the body." Here, apparently, the principle of "knocking out a wedge with a wedge" works: a spicy and spicy stew from dog meat burned the body so much that relief followed and it became easier to work.

Koreans do not eat all dogs - and pets are not sent under the knife. Although the dog (with or without the owner) was not seen on the streets of Pyongyang. Dogs for the table are grown on special farms. And for foreigners served in the hotel cafe. They are not on the regular menu, but you can ask. The dish is called Tangogi. They bring dog broth, fried and spicy dog ​​meat, as well as a set of sauces. All this must be mixed and eaten with rice. You can drink hot tea. However, Koreans often wash down everything with rice vodka.

The taste of the dog, if you try to describe the dish, is reminiscent of spicy and fresh lamb. The dish, to be honest, is insanely spicy, but very tasty - forgive me especially scrupulous dog breeders.

Souvenir, magnet, poster

A souvenir from the DPRK is a strange combination in itself. It seems that from such a closed and regulated country it is impossible to bring sweet tourist pleasures. In fact, it is possible, but not much. Firstly, fans of ginseng will feel at ease in the DPRK. In the country, everything is made from it: teas, vodka, medicines, cosmetics, seasonings.

Fans of alcoholic beverages do not particularly roam. Strong alcohol - or specific, like rice vodka, giving, according to people who know, a strong hangover. Or exotic, like drinks with a snake or a seal's penis. Drinks like beer exist in two or three varieties and are not much different from the average Russian samples. Grape wine is not produced in the DPRK, there is plum wine.

There are catastrophically few types of magnets in the DPRK, more precisely, one - with the state flag. No other pictures - neither with leaders, nor with sights - will decorate your refrigerator. But you can buy a figurine: a "monument to the ideas of Juche" or a flying horse Chollima (accent on the last syllable) - this is such a North Korean Pegasus that carries the ideas of Juche. There are also stamps and postcards - there you can just find images of leaders. The famous badges with Kims, unfortunately, are not for sale. The badge with the national flag is the only prey of a foreigner. In general, and all - the range is not great.

Exotic lovers can buy a souvenir passport of the DPRK. This is certainly a nomination for the most original dual citizenship.

bright tomorrow

It seems that the DPRK is now on the verge of great changes. What they will be is unknown. But it seems that reluctantly, a little frightened, the country is opening up. The rhetoric and attitude to the outside world are changing.

On the one hand, the DPRK authorities continue to build their inhabited island. Fortress-state, closed from all external forces. On the other hand, they are talking more and more not about the struggle to the bitter end and to the last soldier, but about the well-being of the people. And the people are drawn to this well-being.

Three Koreans are sitting at the next cafe table and drinking. They are in nondescript gray trousers. In plain polo shirts. Above the heart of each is a badge with leaders. And on the hand of the one who is closer, a Swiss watch is golden. Not the most expensive - at a price of a couple of thousand euros.

But with an average salary in the DPRK, this accessory will have to work for a couple of lives without days off. And only Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il live forever. However, the owner of the watch wears them calmly, perceiving them as something normal. For him, this is already a new, established reality in the country of Juche.

Of course, in a society of demonstrative universal equality, there are always those who are much more equal. But it seems that the country is standing in front of a closed door in new world. For a long time, the people of the DPRK have been frightened by this world, but in the near future they may have to open this door and face the new world one on one.