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What to do in Belgrade. One day in Belgrade: an unusual journey from burundukmedia

An article about the sights of Belgrade (Serbia). Photos, reviews and description. Assembly of Serbia, St. Sava Cathedral, Prince Michael Street, Moscow Hotel, Tesla Museum.

Do you know the Ukrainian program “Heads and Tails”? I like her. And I usually watch it before certain trips. What does she have to do with this article about the sights of Belgrade? I'll explain now. The whole point is that in the special issue about Serbia this country was presented as a completely faceless and gray place. Belgrade itself suffered too. And so much so that for a moment I even thought to myself: “Is it worth going there?”

Although in the end I was even glad that I watched that program. Against the backdrop of initially low expectations about “gray post-war Belgrade,” the capital of Serbia seemed to me a very bright, dynamic and colorful place. I liked this city. And I liked the whole country as a whole. Of course, the sights of Belgrade are really inferior iconic places London, Rome or Barcelona. But this city will not disappoint you. And so that your trip to the Balkans leaves behind the most pleasant impressions, I will try to present here a small selection of the most interesting and beautiful sights of Belgrade, which are definitely worth visiting.

The main attractions of Belgrade: what to visit on the first day

Assembly of Serbia (national parliament building)

One of the most beautiful and impressive buildings in the Serbian capital. It looks like a real palace. Although it reminded me more of the Florentine “Duomo” (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore). I even do not know why. Maybe because of the dome?

On the bad side, I would like to mention the fact that there is a large highway next to the parliament building, because of which passing cars constantly get into the frame. On the good side: next to the Assembly there is the Serbian main post office (a gray socialist building, not without its gloomy charm)...

There is also a beautiful park with drinking fountains. There are also these “antique” sculptures in this park.

If you are there, please note that many trees in the park have their own signs with descriptions.

Temple of Saint Sava

Usually this temple is the number one attraction in Belgrade. But I will still put him in second place. The building is huge and truly impressive. However, renovation work is still ongoing inside. I can’t even imagine how cool this temple will look when the interior decoration is completed to perfection.

Would you like my advice: go to this place in the evening. When illuminated at night, the temple looks truly grandiose. And on Deligradskaya Street (very close to the Church of St. Sava) there is the Embassy of the Republic of Belarus.

It seems to me that all of us should definitely take a photo with him too.

Prince Mikhail Street

The main pedestrian street of Belgrade and also one of its main attractions of the city. It's very pleasant to walk here. Live music is constantly playing in different parts of the street. And the buildings in this part of the city look especially impressive and pompous.


Hotel "Moscow"

Just a beautiful building. Although, if I'm not mistaken, it is already more than 100 years old. And Muscovites will probably be interested in taking pictures with this hotel. Moreover, you don’t really need to look for it - in fact, this hotel is located a couple of minutes walk from Prince Mikhail Street.

By the way, the Moscow Hotel is considered one of the best hotels in Belgrade. I would live here with pleasure.

Republic Square

In fact, this is one of the branches from the initial part of the pedestrian street in Belgrade. There is a building here national museum Serbia and “Narodno pozorishte” (don’t be alarmed - it’s just the People’s Theater).

Both of these buildings are worth seeing.

Ruzica Church

If I'm not mistaken, this is the oldest church in Belgrade. It is located right next to the walls of the Belgrade Fortress and looks very beautiful and picturesque. In summer it was all covered with green ivy. In addition, weddings are often held here.

Kalemegdan Park and Belgrade Fortress

One of the main attractions of Belgrade. In fact, a large separate article should be written about it. There's a museum here too military equipment, and several ancient towers, and high walls overlooking the Danube (where all Belgrade youth gather in the evening). This is actually a very interesting place. In fact, this is the only attraction in Belgrade, which has many of its own attractions inside...


Oh... no... I’m lying... There is also Zemun!!!

What it is? From an administrative point of view, Zemun is a suburban district of Belgrade. However, in fact it is a separate city, which in its appearance is completely different from the Serbian capital. In ancient times, it was in this place that the line that separated the possessions of Austria-Hungary from the possessions of the Ottoman Empire passed. Therefore, a trip to Zemun can be completely perceived as a trip to another city.


A little later I will write about this place on a larger scale and in more detail. Now I will post here only a couple of photographs of the Gardosh Temple and a panorama of the tiled roofs of Zemun.

Sights of Belgrade that can be left for later

In general, there are many interesting places in the Serbian capital. Therefore, 1-2 days may not be enough for you to get around them all. What to see in Belgrade if you suddenly stay here for a long time? I'll introduce you next short description interesting places in the city that you can visit if you have time.

Skadarlija

A sort of analogue of Vilnius Užupis. Positioned as the most bohemian and musical district of Belgrade. However, in fact, it’s just a street with a huge number of different cafes. There is live music here in the evenings. Therefore, it’s worth going here only in the evening, when some local Balkan “band” starts jamming in every local restaurant.

St. Mark's Church

During a free tour of Belgrade, one guide told us that this temple is a replica of another cathedral - destroyed by the Albanians in Kosovo. I couldn't find such information on the Internet. But in any case, this building is very nice (and is located very close to the Assembly building). You can take a photo of this temple simply on the way.

The building of the former General Staff of the Yugoslav Army

One of the symbols of NATO military aggression in the former Yugoslavia. Reminder of the war. And at the same time, it is a landmark of Belgrade, which may very soon disappear. For a long time, this dilapidated building remained standing as a symbol of the war and was positioned as a Belgrade must see. However, over time, the building finally fell into disrepair. And in the near future it is going to be demolished or renovated. We still managed to see him. Maybe you will have time too?


Tesla Museum

To tell the truth, we didn’t go there, although the Serbs themselves are crazy about it. Within the framework of this museum, each visitor can become part of various experiences related to electricity in one way or another. Reviews about this place are different. Some people like it. And some say that local performances are like a simple physics lesson. Something tells me that the Tesla Museum is far from the Warsaw Copernicus Science Center. Although, of course, I would be grateful if any of you left your personal review about visiting this place.

Brankov Bridge

In my opinion, what is interesting is not the bridge itself, but the view from it. The Sava and the Danube lie ahead. The spire of the Church of the Archangel Michael is visible on the right. And right ahead on the river next to the Brankov Bridge are the most famous nightclubs in Belgrade - the so-called. Splavovi. Thousands of European tourists come to the Serbian capital every year for these floating discos. Over the past few years, Belgrade has even been called the club capital of Europe. I was at a local party. I like it.


Belgrade graffiti

Another informal symbol of the city. Many of them have even begun to appear on postcards and magnets. And this is not at all surprising. A lot of the graffiti in Belgrade looks very cool and picturesque. I especially liked the painting “The City Devours Greenery.” Although some other works also deserve attention. Most of the best paintings are located in the Brankova Bridge area.

How to find Belgrade attractions on the map

In fact, all the main attractions of Belgrade are located in approximately the same area. The Church of St. Mark, the Assembly, the Moscow Hotel, Prince Michael Street and the Belgrade Kalemegdan Fortress are all following each other. Not far from there are the Brankov Bridge, Skadarlija and Republic Square. Therefore, it is difficult to miss them. Only Zemun, the Tesla Museum and the Temple of St. Sava are located to the side. Although they are not particularly far from the center.

In general, we usually use the app to navigate around an unfamiliar city. Maps.Me(for independent travelers this is generally an irreplaceable thing). In fact, a compass and a map rolled into one. Works in offline mode too. I highly recommend you download this application.

In addition, you should know that Belgrade has a free (!) tourist tram. He goes on certain days (in July 2016 he went on Fridays and Saturdays). You can sign up for a tour at the tourist information center (at the beginning of Prince Mikhail Street).

In order to navigate the public transport schedule, we used the website planplus.rs. If I'm not mistaken, bus number 83 goes to Zemun. But this is not accurate information. Check. I have already forgotten.

Excursions in Belgrade

I usually walk around different cities on my own - without tour guides. But all people are different, so I should probably write about Belgrade excursions too. Personally, I advise you to look for them. There are many unusual original excursions collected there, so there is always plenty to choose from. Each tour has ratings and reviews from previous clients, which is also very convenient. As an example, I will post here links to some excursions in Belgrade. To see a general list of offers, simply click “See all”. Of course, all excursions will be in Russian.

Most Big City Balkan, the capital of the former Yugoslavia, and now Serbia, is not the most popular destination from Russian tourists, which, frankly, is a little offensive, because Serbs love Russians, and without any reservations.

We found ourselves in Belgrade on the eve of May 9 and the first thing that caught our eye was a great many posters on the street dedicated to the 70th anniversary of Russia’s victory in the Great Patriotic War - in Croatia and Slovenia, through which our path lay, similar ones (for obvious reasons) we didn't observe.

In the photo: photo exhibition in Kalemegdan Park

In kiosks central park Kalemegdan sells sweatshirts, the inscriptions on which read: “Russians and Serbs are brothers forever,” and as soon as a local resident finds out that you came from Russia, they immediately begin to communicate with you in Serbian, slowly drawing out each word, apparently assuming that you will immediately understand them without a translator. You can feel whatever way you like about modern Russian politics, but the fact that Russians are loved in Belgrade is incredibly pleasant.

This compensates for many not entirely pleasant features of the Serbian capital, for example, dirt on the streets (compared to Zagreb, combed on all sides and cartoonish in the best sense of the word Ljubljana, Belgrade is, of course, littered to the fullest) and the eternal smell of tobacco - in the capital of Serbia, -it is still allowed to smoke indoors, and since most of the rooms are small and have a weak air conditioning system, there is no hiding from the smell of the old university smoking room.

But, as one of my friends, who has visited Belgrade several times, said, the main advantage of the city is that it is warm and sincere, and it is impossible to argue with this fact. Today’s article is about how to spend time in Belgrade efficiently and with pleasure if you go there for the weekend. I’ll make a reservation right away that I didn’t have the goal of telling about all the sights of the Serbian capital, and I’m only writing about what I’m personally ready to recommend to friends and acquaintances.

DAY ONE: EXPLORING THE HISTORICAL CENTER

BELGRADE FORTRESS

It makes sense to start getting acquainted with the city with the community of Stari Grad (in Belgrade there are not neighborhoods and districts, but communities) and the Belgrade Fortress And parkaKalemegdan, more precisely, the park was once part of the fortress; it is not for nothing that the name “Kalemegdan” itself is translated into Russian as “fortress field,” that is, a field outside the fortress walls. Nowadays the “field” has been transformed into a place for recreation for citizens with the obligatory carousels and playgrounds.

In the photo: haymaking between the fortress walls of the Belgrade Fortress

The Belgrade Fortress was erected, as befits a defensive structure, on a hill above the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, and next to the fortress there is another symbol of Belgrade - Monument to the Winner- a sculpture of a naked warrior with a sword and a hawk, who looks unkindly towards Austria-Hungary. By the way, this place is the best for taking panoramic photographs of the Danube, and an excellent background for selfies.

After taking photos, do not rush inside the fortress. First, take a walk along the fortress walls, which, like a complex multi-level labyrinth, encircle the hill on all sides. You can walk along them without fear of falling down - the walls are wide, and the opportunity to feel like Yaroslavna on the city wall does not come every day.

In the photo: a walk along the fortress walls - one of the local entertainments

If we talk about the history of the Belgrade fortress, then it was founded, according to sources that have reached us, as much as 2300 years ago. The Celts were the first to settle on a hill overlooking the Danube, and they erected the city of Singidunum here, which was later occupied by the Romans and then transferred to Byzantium. The Belgrade Fortress consists of the Upper and Lower cities; during its existence it was destroyed and rebuilt as many as 44 times, and over the long centuries of its existence it withstood about 115 battles (and these are only those that were mentioned in historical sources).

In the photo: entrance to Belgrade Fortress

After walking along the fortress walls, go look at the powerful round towers of the fortress. There are five of them in total, the most beautiful is the Clock Tower, but the towers erected here in the fifteenth century with the telling names “Fear” and “Don’t be afraid” have not survived to this day. There are 12 gates leading inside the fortress, the main ones are called Istanbul, since they were built by the Turks in the eighteenth century.

In general, the territory of the fortress is impressive in its size, there was room here for the Museum of Natural History, and for the Institute for the Conservation of Monuments of Belgrade, and for the National Observatory, and for the Military Museum, and for two churches, in short, after walking around the fortress for a couple of hours, you understand, that the city of Belgrade, located in ancient times on its territory, was not so small by the standards of that time.

How much time to spend visiting: 2 hours
Entrance to the fortress and park is free, but you will have to pay to visit museums.

STREET KNEZ MIKHAILOVA

From antiquity to modernity, more precisely, to Knez Mihailova street, which is located a stone's throw from Kalemegdan. The pedestrian street will remind many of our Arbat: there are also beautiful facades of houses built in the nineteenth century, some walls are decorated with graffiti, figured street lamps, a great many cafes with the obligatory summer verandas and, of course, shops.

When it comes to shopping in Belgrade, it makes sense to take a closer look at local brands, since the quality of their items is not bad, and the prices for creations by Serbian designers are relatively low. For those who love shopping abroad, I recommend checking out shoe stores, of which there are plenty on Knez Mihailova Street. You can buy funny slip-ons from Serbian designers or sneakers with funny prints, the cost of a pair is unlikely to exceed 50 euros.

In the photo: church near Kneza Mihailov and Kalemegdan streets

Along Kneza Mikhailov Street you will get to Republic Squarecentral square city, in the center of which stands a monument to Prince Mikhail. There’s not much to do on the square itself, so we won’t linger here and head to the Skadarlie area.

SKADARLIA

However, Skadarlija- this is not even a district, but a street; to get here, you need to climb up the mountain along steps laid out with large paving stones. The place is not intended for motorists; you can only move here on foot and, preferably, in comfortable shoes (the paving stones in this area of ​​the city are not just large, they are gigantic).

In the photo: in Skadarlija there are restaurants at every turn

Previously, artists, writers and nouveau riche lived in Skadarlija, which is why the architecture of the area is very unique, however, today the once luxurious, gingerbread-looking mansions are thoroughly dilapidated, and the facades of many are decorated with unimaginable graffiti. However, everything is generally fine; local street art masters express themselves on every more or less suitable wall in any district of the city.

Today Skadarlija is a quarter with countless cafes and restaurants. If you find yourself here in the late afternoon, you will be able to watch amusing musicians singing Serbian songs near the tables, and guests of the establishments happily sing along with them, while eating cevapcici. Sometimes you can see how restaurant guests are escorted home with an orchestra: a couple walks down the street, followed by a group of 3-5 musicians, so to speak, musical accompaniment according to the precepts of Kusturica’s films. However, if you remember that before the poets, gypsies lived in Skadarlija, then everything falls into place.

By the way, the residents of Belgrade themselves call this area an open-air museum and often compare it with Parisian Montmartre, which, in general, is justified, because almost all the artists and writers of Serbia lived and worked here, and the house of the artist and poet Djur Jaksic, also located in This quarter has today become a meeting place for Serbian poets.

"SUPERMARKET" - FOOD, SHOPPING AND CONCEPTUALITY

If in Skadarlija it makes sense to watch how people dine to the accompaniment of musicians who are at arm's length from them, and look into the local shops for souvenirs, then for good food and excellent shopping you should go to "Supermarket", which is located at 10 Vishiveva Street, in fact, it is about ten minutes walk from Skadarlija.

The “supermarket” is something like a Belgrade concept store; clothes from the best Serbian designers are sold here, whose names most likely won’t tell you anything, but the quality of the items is excellent, and the design is simply a sight for sore eyes. It is also captivating that the prices for conceptual skirts or jackets, reminiscent of modern variations on the theme of Chanel classics, are very inexpensive, that is, of course, more expensive than the mass market, but in general, a rare item from those presented here will cost you more than at 200 euros. And the quality and design, I repeat, are very high.

In the photo: you can’t just walk into a “Supermarket” and not take a selfie

In addition, the “Supermarket” also has an excellent restaurant, which serves dishes not only of Serbian, but also Italian cuisine, wines, again, not only local, but also from France and Italy. From the point of view of design and atmosphere, the “Supermarket” is thought out perfectly, not without reason, none of the girls who find themselves here can resist the vicious temptation to take a selfie in the local ladies’ room, because the toilet is decorated like a fitting room in the showroom of some fashion house . The audience at the “Supermarket” is young, progressive and has money, prices are higher than the city average, but the atmosphere of the place fully compensates for the costs.

EMBANKMENT BETON HALA

Since we have already visited the “Supermarket”, where the progressive youth of Belgrade gathers, why not continue our acquaintance with the conceptual places of the city and go to the Sava River embankment Beton Hala. to his appearance it is reminiscent of both Moscow's Red October and Copenhagen's Vesterbro district, but with a caveat - there is a lot of greenery. The design project for the embankment was developed in 2011 by the Spanish-Mexican architectural studio Sanzpont Arquitectura. Not all the architects’ ideas have yet been realized, but what has been done is impressive.

Establishments where you can taste Serbian and Montenegrin wines or have a delicious dinner are located wall to wall; adherents of a healthy lifestyle jog or ride past people relaxing with wine on street verandas or flouting the principles of a healthy lifestyle in other ways available to them. In my opinion, it is the Beton Hala embankment that is ideal for watching sunsets; after all, the red rays of the sun reflecting in the waters of the Sava River and a glass of red wine are something worth neglecting an evening jog for, especially during vacation.

Well, if you prefer traditional Belgrade to fashionable Belgrade, then I recommend checking out the restaurant Restaurant gradska(address: Visokog Stevana 43A, website: ), which is located nearby in the Kalemegdan area. The interior of the restaurant is extremely unpretentious, and in general this place looks more like an ordinary eatery, but at the same time, the establishment invariably ranks number one in the Tripadviser rating.

Order local beer, cevapchichi (minced meat cutlets shaped like sausages) or river fish. Everything is very tasty, very inexpensive and with genuine Serbian flavor. An important point is that the portions in the restaurant are huge, so it makes sense to take one dish for two.

DAY TWO: TEMPLE OF ST. SAVA, MUSEUM OF THE GREAT TESLA AND MORE

The Temple of St. Sava, which, although still under construction, is considered one of the iconic landmarks of Belgrade, is located in the Vracar community, and you can get here from the Stari Grad community either by one of the trolleybuses or on foot.

In the photo: such masterpieces of street art can be found here at every step

When you find yourself in another part of Belgrade, more precisely, on Nemajina Street, you get the feeling that you are in a completely different city. The fact is that government offices are located on Nemaina Street, so the quarter is very clean, and the buildings here are tall and impressively monumental. However, not everything is so rosy. The fact is that it is on Nemajina Street that the infamous buildings of the General Staff and the Ministry of Defense are located, destroyed in 1999 during the bombing of Yugoslavia by NATO forces.

In the photo: a Belgrade building destroyed during NATO bombing

In order not to succumb to despondency (after all, looking at bombed buildings, your chest begins to ache, you know), go to a nearby bakery Pekara Trpkovic(address: Nemaina 32). In general, bakeries are the most popular cafe format in Belgrade, but this one is special: it has been open since 1908 and is still considered one of the best in the city. In a word, if you want to “indulge in buns,” then the place is most suitable, especially in the morning, and carbohydrates before 12.00 are allowed even for young ladies who are especially losing weight.

After having a snack, we head to the main point of the morning program of the second day - Church of Saint Sava. The temple, as the name implies, is dedicated to its founder, Saint Sava, who was the son of the Serbian ruler Stefan Nemanja.

Together with his father, Saint Sava built not only Orthodox monasteries and churches in Serbia, but also schools, and the current church was built on the site of the one that was burned by the Ottoman Turks in 1595. The church looks charming from the outside, but the interior is more than modest - the fact is that the construction of the temple is still underway.

NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM

The next item on the mandatory program is visiting Nikola Tesla Museum, which is located nearby at Krunska 51, website: . Perhaps Tesla is the most famous Yugoslav in history, and I used the word “Yugoslav” for a reason - the great scientist considered himself a Yugoslav and supported the idea of ​​a united and great Yugoslavia. The Tesla Museum is the case when it makes sense to sign up for an excursion, and not just look at the exhibits alone, fortunately, excursions to English language They spend here several times a day.

In the photo: the building of the Nikola Tesla Museum

While visiting the museum, they will not only show you the cars invented by Tesla, but will also tell you why he went to America (in fact, he was just looking for sponsors for his inventions), where mini-models of his cars came from (in fact, with their help Tesla demonstrated to sponsors the principles of machine operation), and also why the Tesla coil (aka Tesla transformer) - a device for generating high-frequency oscillations - has not been widely used in practical life. Okay, okay, the answer to the last question is very simple: the financiers did not like the idea of ​​​​free electricity for everyone, and they did not allocate money for the project, plus it turned out that people with a pacemaker cannot live near transformers, the pacemaker will simply explode in the chest.

In the photo: Tesla transformer model

Those who have a healthy heart are invited to experience the effects of the Tesla transformer for themselves right in the museum; guests are given light bulbs, the transformer turns on, and now you are the hero of the film “Prestige”, a light bulb lights up in your hands without any wires. In many reviews about the Tesla Museum, you can see information that the scientist’s personal belongings and manuscripts are kept here, but for some reason everyone is silent about one fact. The fact is that the Tesla Museum is also a mausoleum; a ball-shaped urn with the scientist’s ashes is kept here, because the convinced Yugoslav Nikola Tesla wanted his ashes to be brought to Belgrade after his death.

In the photo: an urn with the ashes of Nikola Tesla in the Belgrade Museum

After the cultural program, you can relax and go tasting local wines, fortunately, a suitable place is just nearby - Pampour Bar(address: Njegoseva 28a) is located just a five-minute walk from the Tesla Museum. Of course, Serbian wines are not as famous as Italian or French, but they also deserve attention, and at Pampour Bar their selection is huge, besides, the staff here works conscientiously and from the heart, they tell you about each type of wine with such feeling as as if they themselves have been doing nothing but blending all their lives. So, feel free to order a tasting set of wines and cheeses; by the way, you can have a full meal at Pampour Bar; the cuisine in the establishment is more than decent.

After lunch or a tasting, take a stroll along Kraja Aleksandra Boulevard and Takovska Street, here you will see the Serbian Parliament building and the monumental St. Mark's Church— you can look inside, but, by and large, there is nothing special inside the church; from the outside it looks much more interesting.

In the photo: the building of the Serbian Parliament People's Assembly of Serbia

Nearby is another attraction of Belgrade - surrounded by a lovely flower garden Stari Dvor Palace, built by King Milan I Obrenovic in 1881 - 1884.

As for evening leisure, it is best to return to Stari Grad again and explore the boulevards adjacent to the Skadarlie quarter. Establishments of all kinds are open here on every corner: there are wine shops, hookah bars, and bars, as they say, for every taste and budget.

Just look around and decide which of the many places smiles at you the most - with such diversity, it’s easy to make a good choice.

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Yulia Malkova- Yulia Malkova - founder of the website project. In the past, he was the editor-in-chief of the elle.ru Internet project and the editor-in-chief of the cosmo.ru website. I talk about travel for my own pleasure and the pleasure of my readers. If you are a representative of hotels or a tourism office, but we do not know each other, you can contact me by email: [email protected]

This country does not have its own seashore, but it has mountains, clean air, mineral springs and incredibly delicious cuisine. We found out five reasons why you should go here.

1. Get to know another European capital

Belgrade may not have the same bright colors and charm as, for example, Paris or Amsterdam, but it has a special flavor. The capital of Serbia has been destroyed and rebuilt 38 times throughout its history. Some buildings damaged by NATO bombing in the late 90s can still be seen (General Staff, Ministry of Defense). They were not demolished on purpose - for edification, as a monument to war.

In the city center, on Terazije Square, one of the main attractions is located - the Moscow Hotel, designed in the Art Nouveau style. This is the only hotel in Belgrade where there are no apartments at number 13. By the way, not far from it is the Samo Pivo bar, where they only sell beer - you can bring any snack with you or order delivery to the establishment’s address.

Kalemegdan (park and ancient fortress with a gorgeous view of the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers), Republic Square, King Alexander Boulevard (the longest street in the city - 8.5 km), Nikola Tesla Museum (Monday - day off).

Hotel "Moscow" in Belgrade

2. Take mineral baths

There are many thermal springs in Serbia. One of the closest to the capital is Arandjelovac (75 km). The Bukovička Banya resort located here is over 200 years old. It was here that members of the Serbian royal dynasties vacationed, and now residents of the country are happy to come for the weekend. Accommodation in a 3-star hotel – from 1,700 rubles/day, in a 5-star hotel (with swimming pools with the same healing thermal water) – from 8,000 rubles.

Must-see places: a central park with marble sculptures and a source of drinking mineral water (come with your own container - 4 rubles / liter, two bottles of 0.5 each are allowed to be taken for free), Risovac Cave at the entrance to Arandjelovac - a refuge of Neanderthals (ticket from 100 rubles, open only during daylight hours), the Church of St. George in Topol is the fifth in the world in terms of mosaic area (more than 3.5 thousand sq. m, 15 thousand shades of color).

Autumn in the parks of Arandjelovac

3. Treat the thyroid gland

Zlatibor (the mountain of the same name, 230 km from Belgrade, at an altitude of more than 1000 meters above sea level) is a specialized health resort for the treatment of the thyroid gland, as well as respiratory diseases, anemia, and depression. Experts note here a special wind rose and favorable atmospheric pressure, which together provide a unique healing microclimate. Apartments – from 1200 rubles/day.

Must-see places: the most high mountain Tornik area, the open-air museum “Old Village”, which recreates in the smallest detail the life of the mountaineers, the old narrow-gauge railway “Shargan Eight”, the construction of which made it possible to overcome the Shargan Pass and on which director Emir Kusturica filmed his famous film “Life is a Miracle”. And don’t forget to have lunch at the national restaurant Perun.

Zlatibor is beautiful even in winter

4. Get involved in the culture

Not far from Zlatibor (about 30 km), surrounded by mountains, there is the village of Kusturica (various names: Mečavnik, Mokra Gora, Drvengrad). This is a wooden ethno-town built according to old designs - with streets (for example, Diego Maradona, Federico Fellini, Bruce Lee, Nikita Mikhalkov), houses, a church, a cafe-library, a hairdresser, a hotel, a gym, a swimming pool and saunas, and even a cinema. By the way, you can watch one of Kusturica’s films absolutely free of charge. However, only “Life is a Miracle” is currently available in Russian, and your session time must be booked in advance. In January, the Kustendorf film festival, organized by the director, traditionally takes place here. So Kusturica has her own permanent residence in the village (the house is very close to the cinema), but this is not advertised.

Important point: Coke and Pepsi lovers, be prepared - these drinks are not on sale here. This is the personal order of the Emir.

It’s best to start your quick acquaintance with Belgrade (one day can’t be called anything else) with the Stari Grad community and the Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park located inside it. By the way, Belgrade is divided not into neighborhoods and districts, but into communities. And Kalemegdan (Fortress Field) is also a park, only located behind the fortress walls. Nowadays it is a typical city park with playgrounds and carousels.

The Belgrade Fortress, as befits an ancient defensive structure, is located on the top of a hill, at the place where two rivers - the Sava and the Danube - merge. Next to the fortress rises another symbol of Belgrade - a sculpture of a warrior with a sword and a hawk (monument to the Victor), warily looking towards the long-time enemy of Austria-Hungary.

Walk along the fortress walls without fear - they are wide, so you won't be able to fall down and admire the beautiful views. Examine the powerful round towers of the fortress, twelve gates leading to the fortress. By the way, some of them, built by the Turks in their time, were called Istanbul. On the territory of the fortress there are several interesting museums, but you are unlikely to have enough time for them. We'll have to save their visit for our next visit.

Next, we leave the ancient fortress and go down to the modern Knez Mihailova Street, which is located literally a stone’s throw from Kalemegdan Park. It is very reminiscent of Moscow's Arbat, with the same beautiful facades of houses built in the nineteenth century, curly street lamps, a great variety of cafes and, of course, shops. Walking along this street to the end you will find yourself on Republic Square - the central one in Belgrade. Here pay attention to the monument to Prince Mikhail; there is essentially nothing else to see here.

After a short climb uphill, you will reach Skadarlija Street. This is a bohemian street, because artists and writers used to live here, so the atmosphere on this street is appropriate. You will see a lot of graffiti on the walls here. There are also many different cafes here, and in the evenings street musicians play and sing here. Locals lovingly call this street Belgrade's Montmartre.

Next, you should go to the embankment of the Sava River - BETON HALA. Its design was developed by a group of Spanish-Mexican architects and the result is very impressive. It immediately reminds me of the embankment of Moscow's "Red October" and the Copenhagen district - Vesterbro, only this embankment is distinguished by a much larger amount of greenery. There are a lot of cute cafes here, so if you want, you can have a snack in one of them.

Now, either on foot or by trolleybus, get to the Vracar community to visit a landmark place for Belgrade - the Church of St. Sava. Sava, who was later canonized, was by birth the son of the Serbian ruler Stefan Nemanja. From the outside the temple looks absolutely charming, but the interior inside is more than modest. But since the construction of the temple has not yet been completed, there is hope that the inside will also be attractive.

Well, one more place that you simply cannot and unforgivably miss while in Belgrade is the Nikola Tesla Museum. It is better, of course, to go through it with a guided tour; fortunately, these are held in English several times a day, otherwise it will be difficult for you to understand all these devices and ingenious machines invented by this unrivaled genius. Here you will also see an urn with the scientist’s ashes in the shape of a ball, because Nikola Tesla wanted to be buried in Belgrade.

And finally, if you still have time, you will need to visit the building of the Serbian parliament - the National Assembly of Serbia, and at least examine the monumental Church of St. Mark and the Stari Dvor Palace from the outside. It's enough for one day.

  1. How to do everything and what to see in Belgrade in 1 day, but a week is not enough, but everything is in order. In the morning the sun woke us up. Serbian writer Dusan Radovic wrote that if you were lucky enough to wake up in Belgrade, then demanding more from fate is arrogance. Like this!

    I read something about Belgrade, reviews from tourists are very different. Some people fall in love with this city, while others do not understand it and are disappointed. I’ll try to tell my own story about Belgrade, about the sights, I write reviews based on notes made on the road.

    There wasn't even a hint of yesterday's rain left, everything was dry. Early in the morning we leave the house to buy fresh pastries for breakfast at the nearest baker.

    There's graffiti all over the street

    On the street we immediately smelled the smell of coffee; Serbs love coffee. Let's go to Pekara, it's around the corner. Pekara is a bakery in Serbian. They are open in the morning, from about 6-7 am until late in the evening. The pastries are always fresh and tasty, you can drink coffee, a cup averages about 1€. The price of baked goods is not high. Three coffees and four large-sized types of pastries cost about three hundred rubles with our money. I heard that many Serbs start their day at a bakery and that there are many of these establishments. But honestly, I didn’t expect that there were so many, small and large. It's about 7 am. Let's start the morning in Serbian style. We drink coffee at the nearest baker, buy some pastries, go up to the apartment and again drink coffee and pastries. Local Serbs joke that bakers are a place of power for them. The saleswoman at the bakery was very attentive and kind. I don’t know if it was because we were Russian (she asked where we were from). Or maybe it’s just the inherent smiling and goodwill of Serbs, but it was nice. And as I read, one after another local residents ran into the bakery before the start of the working day, an old grandfather came with a stick, he really could barely walk, but he still bought his bun in the morning.

    The morning has begun. We knew that we would have the day to ourselves. In fact, there are at least ten days worth of options for what to see in Belgrade. Among the reviews, many routes from the category of what to see in Belgrade in 1 day are related to the fact that people make a transfer in Belgrade and fly further, often to Greece. This is a good option to see the city, or rather its central part. It is in the central part that the main top places are located. There is a shuttle from the airport directly to the center, very convenient.

    Belgrade Airport is named after Nikola Tesla. Nikola Tesla is a Serb, although he was born on the territory of what was then part of Austria-Hungary. The image of the scientist is on Serbian money. In Belgrade there is a Nikola Tesla Museum, where various achievements of the scientist, his personal belongings and documents are displayed.

    We are not in Belgrade by plane, we are by car, and we live in the center. I will say again that there are many difficulties and hassles when traveling by car. But there are many advantages. For me there are more advantages. Already at the entrance to Belgrade from the New Town, we saw the city itself, houses, residents and some of the attractions. We drove around the city to the apartment, looked at everything around, and got an impression from the pictures. You can't see it on foot. The Moscow Hotel on Terazije Square was photographed from the car. A hotel with elements of luxury, with live music at breakfast, with famous guests.

    Today I didn’t let my “swallow” get bored, I picked it up from the parking lot, and we went to the first point of our program - What to see in Belgrade in 1 full day - the remote area of ​​​​Zemun. Reviews about Zemun Belgrade are often written by those who include a tour of the area in their second day in Belgrade. Since it is not located at all in the city center. But we're in a car, we don't care. So, let's go to Zemun.

    Zemun Belgrade, review of the visit

    Zemun is a district of the Serbian capital, located on its outskirts, on the other bank of the Danube. The Danube is called the river of paradise. It is believed that the first settlements here appeared almost in the Stone Age. The Romans ruled here for a long time, then the Hungarians came. It’s sad, but the Hungarians then destroyed a lot of things in Belgrade itself and built protective walls around Zemun from the stones of destroyed buildings. And in such proximity there were two cities. The power, of course, changed. Zemun was under the Hungarians for a long time, then under the Autro-Hungarians, and for some time it was owned by both the Serbs and the Turks. It was only in 1918 that Zemun became part of Belgrade, when Austria-Hungary collapsed and the small village became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

    Zemun Belgrade, what to see?

    Zemun is different from the bustle of the capital, the streets here are narrow, the houses are small, everything is so compact. We drove past the Yugoslavia Hotel; somewhere in this part of the city there is a Russian-Serbian friendship society, as evidenced by numerous graffiti.

    There is a lot of graffiti in Belgrade: inscriptions, people, a lot of patriotic types - we pray to God for Serbia. Somewhere in the new areas of Belgrade there is very fresh graffiti - to the murdered commander of the Donbass Sparta Motorola. I couldn’t find the address on the Internet, but I have a photo.


    There is also Oleg Peshkov...

    In general, Serbs love graffiti and express solidarity with Russia with this drawing, but let’s return to the tourist program of our trip...

    At the entrance to Zemun, we see such a cart...

    Parking a car in a public parking lot in Zemun turned out to be not so easy; the illuminated sign showed “0” free spaces. We wandered around a bit and found parking. It is opposite the central parking lot on the embankment right at the beginning of the narrow street. Officially, parking is for restaurant guests, but you can park your car for two or three hours without any problems; payment is clear in cash to the security guard.

    We move along the narrow streets of Zemun up to the Gardosh Tower. A local resident suggested the way to it, and in parting he shook hands and said - Russia, comrade!



  2. Zemun Belgrade, Gardos Tower

    The Gardoš Tower is not a “Serbian” landmark at all. It was built by the Hungarians in honor of their millennium (millennium) of statehood in 1896. The Hungarians dedicated both Andrássy Avenue and Heroes' Square, which are included in the list, to this event. In architectural style, the tower is a mix of different styles. The main thing is that it has an observation deck. Gardosh Tower is located on the hill of the same name; you climb smoothly up the cobblestone streets to reach it. Already from the hill the views are excellent.

    But you need to climb the tower, the views are even better there. The observation deck is open from 9 to 17. We buy three adult tickets for 200 dinars, free for schoolchildren. We go up the steps. And here they are - views of Zemun, Danube, Belgrade.








  3. Many people leave memorial inscriptions on the brick walls of the tower. Your humble servant also scribbled something, dedicated to all members of the forum:

    They run away from the Gardosh Tower in different directions narrow streets, some of them are not paved, but covered with paving stones. Shoes when traveling on foot are the main thing, remember. We walk past one-story houses, people live in them, some are rented out as “chambers,” and there are small cafes. We notice a very funny sign:


    I see cars like this.

    Flea shops...

    Like a well...

    Zemun Belgrade, where to eat?

    We reached the Danube embankment and took a break for a drink at one of the restaurants. And even though it’s already lunch time, I don’t feel like eating at all, it’s very hot outside. We monitored the topic about Zemun Belgrade, where you can eat well and inexpensively, but we didn’t feel like eating at all. Either from the heat, or from the morning Serbian hearty pastries. The options for eating in Zemun are as follows - go to the Danube embankment, and then walk along it. And here you choose what you want. Bars offer a menu with drinks, there are confectionery shops (in Serbian podslasticharnitsy), many different cafes and restaurants. Prices are approximately the same, give or take.

    Zemun Belgrade embankment




  4. On the Zemun embankment, we see this guy with a photo hanging with a suitcase famous people, someone will throw in a pretty penny, we did.

    Again we notice familiar silhouettes...

    Zemun Belgrade, how to get there?

    It was possible to go to Zemun from the center of Belgrade by public transport, it is well developed in Belgrade. It's a twenty minute drive. You can also take a taxi. They say that taxis in Serbia are not expensive, I can’t say, I haven’t tried them. We went by car. By car everything is simple - we enter the coordinates into the navigator. You can have any establishment on Gospodarska Street, this is the central street of Zemun. You can walk to Zemun, especially in good weather. The fact is that walking along the embankment like this, you can walk from Zemun to the center of Belgrade, it will be several kilometers, across the Brankov Bridge. Both locals and tourists can travel from the center of Belgrade to Zemun by bicycle. There is a bicycle rental point on the embankment, about 500 dinars per day.

    We leave Zemun and head in the opposite direction to a place in Belgrade that is absolutely not to be missed. This is the Temple of St. Sava in Belgrade. We drove up to the temple, drove around it from all sides several times and realized that we couldn’t park the car anywhere nearby. The parking lots are packed to capacity. After wandering around, we found parking a twenty-minute walk from the cathedral. And if it weren’t so hot, it would have been a very pleasant walk along the central streets of the Serbian capital. And so - we move towards the temple in the shade of the trees, the sun is at its zenith +35.

    Church of Saint Sava in Belgrade

    The Church of St. Sava in Belgrade was built in the Byzantine style with the addition of medieval Serbian details; its external architecture is similar to the St. Sophia Cathedral in Istanbul. The temple is named after Sava, the son of the founder of Serbia, Stefan Neman. Savva became interested in religion from his youth, made a pilgrimage to the Greek Athos, and lived there for a long time. Saint Sava considered the main task to be the unification of the Balkan peoples; he became the first Serbian bishop. After the death of the bishop, the Serbs kept his relics, and the Turks who later came to Serbian territories publicly burned the relics of the Christian saint on the site where the Church of St. Sava now stands. The cathedral is huge, 70 meters high, and can accommodate up to ten thousand people at a time. The Church of St. Sava (in Serbian it is still not a cathedral, but a temple) and our Cathedral of Christ the Savior are considered the largest Christian churches in Europe.

    Many more than a hundred years have passed since construction began in 1894. Finishing work inside the temple is still underway. Such a long period of construction and finishing of the church is associated with various events that took place in the country and prevented their completion. Before the Second World War, the walls were ready, but the war stopped the construction, and after that a garage was placed in the unfinished building; the political trends were atheistic. They wanted to complete the construction and place the House of Culture here. And at the end of the 80s of the last century, as soon as they decided to complete the temple, military conflicts began in the Balkans, there was no time for that. The Serbs believe that the completion of all construction and finishing work in the Temple of St. Sava will be the time of the beginning of the long peaceful history of Serbia.

    At the entrance to the temple there are the relics of Saint Sava, one after another people come up and venerate them. There are candles at the entrance, you can take them freely, but there is also a sign with the price of each candle.




  5. There is a park around the church, a little further - fountains, we stood at the fountains for a while, it was so nice to cool off in the heat. And eat Serbian ice cream. It is delicious here, which is understandable - milk and dairy products are also delicious here. There is one peculiarity - the ice cream maker in Belgrade, when selling, unwraps (opens the wrapper) the ice cream, with your consent, of course.

    I forgot to write that on the way to Zemun we ate the famous Maurice Ace ice cream. The cafe of the same name is located on Mihail Pupin Street on the side of new Belgrade, but there is also one in the old part of the city. The ice cream is on the list of the best ice cream in the world. The founder of the company, Moritz Fried, is from Austria; he rode a bicycle to Belgrade on a tour, and then returned and created an ice cream company here. The ice cream is very tasty. Moritz Fried was right when he drew attention to how delicious ice cream is made from Serbian natural products. Ice cream is made in Serbia exclusively from local products. The price per serving is 140 dinars.

    The next point on our way is Tashmaidan Park. We walk to it in the opposite direction. Tashmaidan is a park area. Previously, there was a quarry on this site, where the Romans extracted stones for the construction of city structures. Now there is a public park with trees, benches, and walking paths. I don’t know what this is connected with, but the reconstruction of the park in 2011 was carried out with the support of the Azerbaijani government, there is even a monument to the Azerbaijani president. And here they are - monuments to the victims of NATO bombings:

    This is a famous monument to children killed in the bombing in Belgrade, the photo is not mine, I can’t find something...

    Near Tashmaydan Park there is a very beautiful Church of St. Mark.

    But right behind the Church of St. Mark there is a small church - the Russian Church of the Holy Trinity. The temple was built in 1924 at the expense of Russian emigrants in the style of Pskov-Novgorod architecture with a handful of Russian soil at the base. The Church contains icons that were brought by emigrants from Russia at the beginning of the twentieth century, because whole families left and took the most expensive things. A piece of the handkerchief of Tsarevich Alexei, son of Nicholas II, is also kept there.

  6. Wrangel's grave in Belgrade

    Immediately from the entrance to the right is the grave of Peter Wrangel, one of those who was a prominent representative of the white movement in Russia. Wrangel died in Brussels in 1928 from tuberculosis and bequeathed to be buried in fraternal Serbia. As soon as I took out the camera, they reprimanded me and pointed to a sign - you can’t take pictures.
    The photo is also not mine, I was directly forbidden to take it...


    At the entrance of the church there is a memorial plaque with a list of Russians who contributed to the existence of the church and helped the Serbian people defend their freedom. Services in the church are held in two languages ​​- Russian and Serbian. In a church shop nearby we bought a small icon as a souvenir.

    During the NATO bombing of Belgrade, the church building was damaged. Debris from the television center building scattered onto the roof; it is located a hundred meters from the church.

    In 1999, Belgrade was bombed for seventy-eight days, from March to June. During NATO air raids, more explosives were dropped on Serbian cities than on Hiroshima, Japan in 1945. NATO aircraft flew 37,000 combat missions. They dropped more than two tens of thousands of bombs on Serbia, including cluster bombs. Bombs containing "depleted" uranium were used. Residential buildings, schools, kindergartens, offices, churches, bridges were damaged, bombs hit buses and trains. The infrastructure suffered enormous damage.

    One of the targets of NATO airstrikes in Belgrade was the Belgrade television center. Sixteen people were killed in the raid and many were injured. Now this building stands destroyed, as a reminder.

    And next to it is a monument to the victims of this attack, called “For What?”:

    We return to the parking lot to get the car, we stopped at a supermarket on the way to buy something for tomorrow. We also managed to buy a watermelon at the local market. The watermelon sellers proudly showed us the prize they had received “for the sweetness” of the watermelons. That's why we bought from them. Tomorrow morning according to plan - early rise, breakfast and a long interesting road along the route Belgrade Serbia - . At the same time, we will transit through another country - the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.

    Where to eat tasty and cheap in Belgrade?

    In Belgrade, eating almost everywhere is not particularly expensive. You can have a snack at the bakery, eat some burek and drink a cup of coffee, it’s very inexpensive, tasty and satisfying. And they work until late. On the way, while walking, we came across something like a local fast food, they make a grilled pljeskavica cutlet in a flatbread with sauces. I haven’t tried it, but I read that it’s also delicious and not at all expensive. Everyone also says that if you want to save money, you need to go to restaurants and cafes away from the tourist streets, this is also understandable.

    On this day we had a small family occasion to indulge in a good drink and snack. We had two options for dinner in Belgrade. Both are iconic.

    The first is dinner at the "Sign of Nutrition" cafe on Kralja Petra Street. Kafana "Sign of Nutrition" is considered by many as a landmark of Belgrade. It is located in the center. It is famous for the fact that in the building, built in 1823, there has always been a restaurant serving Serbian cuisine, but the names of the restaurant, as well as the owners, were different. And so, at the very end of the nineteenth century, the restaurant was given a name, or rather they didn’t give a name, but instead of the name they put a question mark. That’s why there’s a question mark (“sign of food” in Serbian) in the title. The restaurant has two halls, not a lot of space, the menu is Serbian cuisine. Interestingly, there is a sign in the hall that says “non-smoking area in the courtyard.” That's it - if you want to smoke, go into the yard. It's the other way around, go into the yard while we smoke here. Serbs are heavy smokers, a well-known fact. We left the “Sign of Food” kafana for our next trip to Belgrade, although we had reserved a table since yesterday evening, the places there are quiet in the evening, everything is busy.

    We decided to go to dinner according to the second option, on Skadarlija Street, especially since it was next to the parking lot.

  7. Belgrade, Skadarlija street

    Skadarlija is called the bohemian quarter of Belgrade. Although in reality it is a short street. But very popular. The name Skadar is the old capital of Serbia. Now this city of Shkodra is located on the territory of modern Albania.

    Until the end of the nineteenth century, gypsies lived on Skadarlija, and it was not bohemian. But nearby, across the road is the National Theater. Actors, artists and other bohemians took a liking to the local restaurants and gradually made the entire street “their own”. An interesting monument to the Serbian artist, poet, playwright Djura Jakšić, he lived in a small apartment on Skadarlija, but did not invite anyone to his place, he was embarrassed by the size of his home. I preferred to sit like this near the house, chat and drink wine. I know that sometimes a glass of wine is placed next to the monument. It doesn't mean anything, it's just tradition. Now housing prices on Skadarlija in Belgrade are being compared with prices in American New York.

    We arrived at Skadarlija when it was already dark, the lights were turned on everywhere, there were a lot of restaurants on the street, just beautiful buildings, flowers, musicians. At the entrance to Skadarlija you are greeted by a sign with the names of pedestrian historical streets in different European cities, including Parisian Montmartre, Vienna Grinzing, and Moscow Old Arbat.

    There are kafans all around on Skadarlija. Kafana in Serbia is not quite a restaurant or cafe, that is, not quite a catering establishment. Here the Serbs are enjoying the moment. Relaxed, slowly. Here lovers make appointments and business people dine, continuing to talk about business. And in the evening, the kafans are filled to capacity with visitors, musicians begin to play, and the smells of food become even more aromatic. In preparation for the trip, I read a lot about Serbia. I remember how in an interview a Serb was asked the question: “You don’t have such a fuss in Serbia, you sit in your kafans and are in no hurry. How do you manage to do everything?” And he replied: “But we don’t have time!”

    We didn’t have a table reserved at Skadarlija, we somehow hoped that there were many restaurants there, all good, and they would seat us, but that was not the case. Despite it being a weekday, all the tables in the first establishment where we were heading, the Three Sheshira (Three Hats) kafana, were occupied, and people were standing in line at the entrance, waiting for a table to become free.

    In another establishment they offered to sit indoors, but I didn’t want to sit inside, the evening was warm, and there was a big party outside and the smells of flowers from everywhere were indescribable. Let's look for a veranda.

    Luckily, the restaurant “Two Deer” just had a table available for four on the veranda. We study the menu and ask the waiter for advice. I would call the Serbian language hard because of the many consonants in its words. It looks like Russian in some places. We communicated with Serbs like this: I speak Russian, they answer in Serbian, and everything is clear.

    A little about Serbian cuisine. The cuisine combines traditions different countries. It's hearty and delicious. Serbs do not stand on ceremony when it comes to food; they eat well and with taste. Serbs are meat eaters. Roštil is grilled meat, those same pljeskavica cutlets and their variations. The traditional breakfast for Serbs is coffee and kafana pastries, not scrambled eggs with beans, bacon or sausages. But towards evening, the kafans fill up.

    So, in an authentic Serbian restaurant we order authentic Serbian dishes. Chorba soup is a thick meat soup with toasted flour. The soup is very filling. Either from hunger or from the general atmosphere, we completely forgot that the portions in Serbian restaurants are large and the food is filling.

    Be careful, the portions are simply huge... The Serbian wine is incomparable, but quite expensive, even in the store, I mean red/dry.

    In general, you can already fill up with this soup. But we drink wine and taste Serbian dishes further. And then there were vegetables, a cheese plate, cutlets - pljeskavica and civapchichi, and there was also wine. I also recommend Aivar sauce - it’s caviar made from vegetables, it contains eggplant, paprika and something else. Goes great with meat. In general, we had a good time and barely left the table. But we enjoyed it. And this is the main thing.

    Late in the evening we returned to our apartment having fun, a few photos:
    Rarities...


    Skadarlija street...


    Did I like the city of Belgrade? Definitely yes, the city is not like any other, you need to understand it, in my opinion it is as interesting as Budapest, I have not seen so many cafes in any other city, although maybe I came across it that way. Let's come back here again for clarification.

    That's it, friends, early tomorrow morning we will start for Greece, we will continue our route to Chalkidiki from Moscow by car. We say to Belgrade - see you soon, I will definitely come back here.

    I return to