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Mountain systems of Kazakhstan: central Tien Shan. Interesting facts: Majestic mountains of Kyrgyzstan Southern Tien Shan

Tours in the Tien Shan mountains.

“My work on Asian geography led me... to a thorough acquaintance with everything that was known about inner Asia. I was especially drawn to the most central of the Asian mountain ranges - the Tien Shan, on which no European traveler had yet set foot and which was known only from scanty Chinese sources... Penetrate deep into Asia to the snowy peaks of this inaccessible ridge, which the great Humboldt, based on the same meager Chinese information, considered volcanic, and bring him several samples from the fragments of rocks of this ridge, and home - a rich collection of flora and fauna of a country newly discovered by science - that was what seemed the most tempting feat for me"

Semenov Tian-Shansky.

Excursion trips to the Tien Shan and Dzungarian Alatau.

Tien Shan is one of the largest mountain systems in Asia. Translated from Chinese, Tien Shan means “Heavenly Mountains”. The territory of Kazakhstan includes almost the entire Northern Tien Shan, parts of the Central and Western Tien Shan.
The Central Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins from a powerful mountain node Khan Tengri(H-6995), at the junction of the borders of China, Kazakhstan And Kyrgyzstan. Further it extends to the west along a series of ridges.
The largest of them is Tersky Alatau. The border with Kyrgyzstan runs along its eastern branch. Ranges included in the Northern Tien Shan : Ketmen, Kungey Alatau, Trans-Ili Alatau, Chu-Ili Mountains and Kyrgyz Alatau.
The Western Tien Shan includes the Talas ridge and the Ugam and Korzhintau ridges extending from it in the southeast direction. Located entirely within Kazakhstan Karatau- the most extreme, heavily destroyed region of the Tien Shan.
Relief, geological structure and minerals. Tien Shan is located in an ancient geosynclinal belt. It is composed of metamorphosed shales, sandstones, gneisses, limestones and volcanic rocks of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic deposits.
Later continental and lacustrine deposits are concentrated on the mountain plains. They consist of clayey, sandy and moraine deposits. Main mountain systems: Trans-Ili Alatau - the northernmost high-mountain ridge of the Tien Shan, has a length of 350 km, a width of 30 - 40 km, and an average height of 4000 m.
Trans-Ili Alatau rises towards Talgar, Chiliko-Kemin mountains (Talgar peak - 4973 m), and in the eastern direction, to the tracts Dalashyk And Tore, decreases noticeably (3300 - 3400 m). The northern slopes of the mountains are especially clearly cut by numerous rivers, which indicates the influence of the Ice Age on them.
The Trans-Ili Alatau is composed of ancient sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - sandstones, porphyries, granites and gneisses. As a result of the formation of the Caledonian and Hercynian folds in the Paleozoic, and then repeated uplift during the Alpine mountain-building process, the mountain structure became block-folded.
An alpine type of relief has developed on the peaks. Pointed peaks alternate with intermountain plains. Some mountain areas have a stepped relief shape. Ketmen- one of the mid-mountain ranges - located in the eastern part of the Tien Shan.
Its length within Kazakhstan is 300 km, width - 50 km, height - 3500 m. It is formed from effusive sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic. In some places granite protrudes onto the surface of the relief. The slopes of Ketmen are dissected by the rivers of the Ili basin. Kungey Alatau It is included within the borders of Kazakhstan only on the northern slopes of its eastern part.
The average height of this mountain range is 3800 - 4200 m. The eastern part of Kungey Alatau and Trans-Ili Alatau is separated by river valleys Charyn, Chilik and intermountain plain Zhalanash. Slopes of Kungey Northern Alatau relatively flat and strongly dissected, the tops are aligned.
Chu-Ili Mountains are located in the north-west of the Trans-Ili Alatau. They consist of individual hills that have undergone destruction and severe erosion ( Dolankara, Kulzhabas, Kindiktas, Khantau, Alaigyr and etc.).
The average height is 1000 - 1200 m. The highest point is Aitau, its height is 1800 m. The Chu-Ili Mountains were formed from Precambrian metamorphic rocks and thick layers of gneiss. Their surfaces are composed of sedimentary-effusive rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - shales, sandstones.
The slopes of the mountains are dry, dissected by deep gorges, the peaks are leveled, to the north-west of these mountains there is Betpak-Dala desert. Kyrgyz Alatau- a large mountain system, its northern slope of the western part is located on the territory of Kazakhstan.
Its highest peak is West Alamedin Peak 4875 meters above sea level . In the Kazakhstan part, the height of the mountains does not exceed 4500 m. To the west, they decrease. The northern slopes are subsided and destroyed mountains.
The surface of the ridge is composed of sandstones, limestones and granites of the Carboniferous period. The ridge has an uneven, highly dissected surface. On the border with Kyrgyzstan, this ridge has an alpine relief type.
Western Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins south of Kyrgyz ridge, behind Talas Valley. Here rises a chain Talas Alatau(in the vicinity of the city of Taraz). Kazakhstan part Talas Alatau - Zhabagly Mountains And Sairamsky ridge.
The Zhabagly Mountains are divided into two mountain ranges: they form a basin Aksu-Zhabagly rivers(height of the northern ridge - 2600-2800 m, southern ridge - 3500 m). They are also composed of sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Paleozoic
The mountain slopes are dissected, bear traces of ancient glaciation, and are distinguished by an alpine type of relief. Pritashkent mountains consist of several mountain ranges extending southwest from Talas Alatau
These include the Sairam Mountains (the highest point is Sairam peak 4220 meters above sea level, Koksu 3468 meters above sea level, Ugam 3560 meters above sea level, Karzhantau 2839 meters above sea level, Kazykgurt 1700 meters above sea level.
Their geological histories are similar. All of them are composed of Paleozoic limestones. The mountain slopes are steep and the terrain is dissected. Karst phenomena are widespread. Karatau Ridge located on the western outskirts Western Tien Shan.
It extends in a northwest direction for 400 km, its average height is 1800 m. The highest point is Mynzhilki 2176 meters above sea level. To the northwest it decreases and already at the confluence of dry river beds Sarysu And Chu the mountain becomes a plateau.
In terms of geological structure and relief, Karatau is similar to Chu-Ili mountains. It settles, collapses and levels out. Northeastern and southwestern mountain ranges Karatau ridge separated by intermountain valleys.
If its southwestern ridge was formed from Proterozoic metamorphic rocks, then the northeastern ridge was formed from Paleozoic sandstones and shales. The valleys located between the two ridges are composed of red clay.
Mesozoic and Cenozoic deposits of limestone, sandstone and clay are also widespread. The local relief was formed under dry climate conditions. There is no constant surface runoff.
The slopes are dissected by large and small gorges and dry river beds. A large reserve of minerals was found on the territory of Karatau. They are used for the production of lead, zinc and Shymkent lead-zinc plant and providing phosphorus raw materials to chemical plants Taraza.
Ores are mined by open-pit mining. Karatau is a source of building materials - gypsum, cement, etc., which gives the state large profits. The folded base of the southwestern and southern parts of the ridge formed in the Paleozoic era.
The main appearance of the Tien Shan relief was formed during mountain building in the Neogene and Anthropogen periods of the Cenozoic era. Proof of this is the earthquakes occurring in the Tien Shan. General form The relief of the mountains is not the same.
The mountains alternate between high peaks, ridges with intermountain valleys, hilly plains, etc. The altitudinal belt of mountains is formed in direct dependence on the geographical location and pattern of mountain ranges. Climate, rivers and glaciers.
Climate of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan mountain system dry, unstable, formed in winter under the influence of polar and in summer tropical air masses. It is influenced by Arctic air masses and the Siberian anticyclone.
The height of mountain ranges and the variety of terrain affect the supply of heat and moisture. Therefore, in autumn and spring there are often frosts in the foothills of the Tien Shan. In the summer months, hot winds often blow - hot winds.
The dry continental climate of the plains in the mountains gives way to a moderately humid continental climate. Winter is long, from October to April-May, summer is much shorter. In Kungey and Terskey Ala-Too, snow sometimes falls as early as August and it becomes quite cold.
Even in May-June there are often frosts. Real summer comes only in July. The time of heaviest precipitation is May. If during this period it rains at the foot of the mountain, then snow falls on its peaks.
On northern slopes Trans-Ili Alatau Even in the winter months there are often warm days. During the day the snow melts, at night the puddles become covered with ice. Such a sudden change in weather has a destructive effect on the rock.
The climate of the Western Tien Shan is influenced by the warm climatic conditions of southern Kazakhstan. Therefore, in the Western Tien Shan mountains the snow line is located higher than in the east. Here the average annual precipitation is greater - 600 - 800 mm
On the mountain slopes the average July temperature is +20°+25°C, at the foot of the glaciers -5°C. Many rivers flow along the spurs Tien Shan mountains, along intermountain plains. They originate from the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau the Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka rivers, Talgar, Issyk, Chilik, Kaskelen, from the eastern slopes of the Tien Shan - Charyn river.
Many of them fall into the Ili River, the flow of which replenishes the water supply of Lake Balkhash. Chu River originates in the Kyrgyz Alatau and after crossing the border of Kyrgyzstan flows through the territory of Kazakhstan
From the southwestern slopes of Karatau flow rivers Arys, Boraldai, Bogen. From the northwestern slopes there are some rivers that are fed by melted snow waters in the spring and dry up in the summer. In the spurs of the Tien Shan there are lakes located in depressions between the mountain peaks. These lakes originate from glaciers.
Below, in intermountain basins, small lakes form. The peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains are covered with glaciers, their especially powerful reserves are concentrated in Chiliko-Keminsky mountain junction. In the Trans-Ili Alatau there are more than 380 glaciers, which occupy mountain valleys with a total area of ​​478 sq. km.
They are located in the upper part of the basins, where the Chilik, Issyk, Talgar, Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, and Aksai rivers originate. The largest glacier is Korzhenevsky (length 12 km). In total, in the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan there are 1009 glaciers with a total area of ​​857 km2
Long-term melting of glaciers and heavy precipitation on hot summer days increase the influx of meltwater to lakes and rivers. This leads to water overflowing its banks and flooding begins.
They cause great harm to the economy and pose a danger to human life. Flora and fauna of the Tien-Shan mountain system. Natural areas of the Tien Shan mountainous country vary along the vertical zone.
These belts developed in direct dependence on the orographic pattern of mountain ranges and geographic location. Due to the diversity of the natural environment and the characteristic features of each mountain range of the Tien Shan, the same belts are not located vertically everywhere at the same height: in one ridge they are higher, and in another they are lower.
IN Northern Tien Shan There are four levels of altitudinal zones. If we count them from the very top, then they begin with glaciers, with alpine terrain covered with eternal snow. And in other ridges the belts begin at an altitude of 2600 - 2800 m, in others - above 3300 m.
There are rolling hills surrounding bare rocks. Natural areas consist of subalpine and alpine meadows and high-mountain landscapes. The mountains are inhabited by leopards, mountain goats, snowcocks, and mountain eagles.
The next altitudinal zone is common in mountains of average height from 1500 - 1600 m and up to 3200 - 3300 m. Small-leaved and coniferous forests mainly grow on the northern slopes of the mountains. The plains are covered with meadows; on the southern slopes there are signs of steppe and meadow-steppe zones.
Spruce-forest belt. 1. Schrenk's spruce. 2. Aspen. 3. Tien Shan rowan. 4. Honeysuckle. 5. Geranium is straight. 6. Siberian larch. 7. Siberian fir. Forests are found only in gorges. Animals inhabited by bears and roe deer.
The belt of low mountains is clearly visible in the Trans-Ili Alatau. Their height is 900 - 1100 meters above sea level. They resemble the small hills of the central part of Kazakhstan. Various types of plants grow on the dark and dark chestnut soils of this territory: herbaceous, woody (pines), shrubs (meadowsweet).
The lowest altitude zone covers intermountain plains and the foothills of the mountains (they are located at an altitude of approximately 600 - 800 meters above sea level). In these territories, signs of desert, semi-desert, and steppe zones are observed.
Grains, melons and horticultural crops are grown here. Meadows are used as pastures for grazing livestock. The altitude zones of the Western Tien Shan, compared to the Northern Tien Shan, are located 100 - 200 meters higher.
They are affected by the arid climate of Central Asia and less moisture. The types of soil and vegetation cover vary depending on the altitudinal zone.

“Heavenly Mountains” are well known to any Chinese. This is what the Tien Shan mountain system is called in China. China is not the only country with celestial mountain ranges. The rocky formation crosses countries such as Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan. The ridge stretches across all of Central Asia.

Features of high mountains

The Tien Shan system has many peaks reaching heights of 6000 meters or more. The unique mountains also have an amazing ecosystem. Their appearance and views are indescribably beautiful, and the pits between them are replete with lakes. There are also fast rivers at the foot of the mountains.

The total length of the ridge is 2500 km. The entire mountain system is divided into the following areas:

  • Central;
  • Northern;
  • Oriental;
  • West;
  • Southwestern.

The highest point of the ridge is Pobeda Peak. Its total height is 7439 meters. At one time, Pyotr Semenov and Thomas Atkinson were involved in research on the system. Subsequently, these figures published books about the Tien Shan mountain system, describing their travels and observations in them. They made many discoveries that helped to better understand the ecosystem of the Tien Shan range.

Famous mountain lake

Lake Tianchi is a natural landmark of China. It is located in the Tien Shan mountain system, 100 km from Urumqi. The height of the lake above sea level is 1900 meters. This is the same jade pond, the waters of which in ancient times were endowed with magical properties.

Legends say that the Goddess Sivanmu herself once bathed in the waters of the lake. The reservoir is fed by mountain glaciers, so the water in it is very clean. The nature around is untouched by man and incredibly beautiful.

In summer, tourists relax near the shores of Tianchi, but the water in the lake is not suitable for swimming, as it still remains too cold even on the hottest days.

Tianchi is a lake, looking into which you can see its sandy bottom, as well as reflections of snow-white peaks.

Climate around the Chinese mountains

The arid and sharply continental climate of the Tien Shan is characterized by snowy winters and hot summers.

The higher the mountain peaks are, the more precipitation there is. Some mountainous areas are subject to strong winds. The lowlands of the mountain range receive little rainfall and are most suitable for tourism.

Wildlife of the Tien Shan

The mountain range is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Its territory is inhabited by ferrets, hares, jerboas, gophers, mole voles, mice, rats and poisonous snakes.

Birds are represented in the form of larks, sandgrouses, eagles, bustards and partridges. Of the large animals, the ridge is favored by brown bears, lynxes, wild boars, wolves, foxes, badgers, martens, squirrels and roe deer.

Sometimes you can see a snow leopard in the highlands. This predator is listed in the Red Book, so they are a rare guest in all their habitats.

Tulips and irises grow on the slopes of the Tien Shan. Tansy trees, cedars, spruces, and aspens stand tall. These places are full of herbs and valuable medicinal plants. During the flowering period of various herbs, the mountain range turns into a colorful fairy tale.

Tien Shan and tourism

The main type of tourism on the territory of the ridge is hiking and mountaineering. Near mountain range There is a Confucian temple in Kufu. At some bases there are ski slopes.

There are tourist areas and hotels around the mountains. There are restaurants, nearby cities have all the infrastructure a person needs.

In some places you can ride a cable car. Most Popular hiking trails equipped with parking for tourists. Sometimes at high altitudes there are campsites and hotels with private rooms. The Tien Shan is so vast and unpredictable that it does not tolerate a rash approach. It is best to go to the mountains with a trusted instructor, observing safety precautions, and notifying the relevant Chinese authorities about your route.

Tien Shan has stunning views, rare nature, clean air and healing energy in the atmosphere. These mountains have always been considered one of the pearls of China, of which, by the way, there are quite a few in the country. They beckoned and beckoned tourists to their heights, opening up unprecedented places for the bravest of them, etched in their memory like the best memories.

Scheme map of the Eastern part of the central Tien Shan

Khan Tengri and the Sredinny Range from the slopes of Pobeda Peak. Photo: RISK online

Tien Shan is a Chinese word meaning "Heavenly Mountains". It is a great mountain system located mainly in Kyrgyzstan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China. Its northern and distant western ranges are in Kazakhstan, while the southwestern part reaches the borders of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Inside the territory of the former USSR, the Tien Shan mountains stretch in an arch more than 1200 km long and 300 km wide. They border in the north with the Ili Valley and the Fergana Depression in the south, while the eastern outskirts seem to dock with the Alai ridge of the Gissar-Alai mountain system.

All Tien Shan ranges, excluding the meridional one, run from west to east and consist of four mountain ranges divided naturally: Central Tien Shan, Northern and Western, as well as Inner Tien Shan. The northern slopes of the ridges are cut by gorges of mountain river valleys and reach depths of 2,000 - 4,000 meters; they are short and shallow. The dominant height of the peaks is 4000 - 5000 meters, and the passes pass between the heights of 3500-4500 m. The climate is typically Central Asian and with the height of precipitation it becomes more and more - up to 900-1000 mm per year on the western slopes of the Fergana Valley.

Tien Shan has significant ice cover: 7,787 glaciers, the largest is South Inylchek, 60 kilometers long.

It has several regions: Trans-Alai Alatau, Inylchek, Kyrgyz, Kokshaal-too, Tengri-Tag, Tersky-Ala-too, Talas Ala-too, Fergana, etc.

Tourist and mountaineering exploration of the “Soviet” part of the area began in the 30s, by a fairly large number of groups, and by and large has not been completed to this day. True, it is impossible to say that the area has been “settling in” all these years - and this is not only due to the Great Patriotic War, during the USSR the area was limited in access (issuing passes to the border strip took several months), and sometimes it was simply closed for access for 5-10 years. Therefore, if you study reports, both tourist and mountaineering, you can determine the “windows” when access to the area opened. Today, getting there is not a problem; you can register yourself (registration, issuing passes), or again through any travel agency.

Over the years of development in the area, dozens of passes have been climbed, the main peaks have been climbed, and many difficult routes have been laid to many of the peaks. Tourists covered all the ridges of the region with passes, while the zone of mountaineering interests is mainly concentrated in the Tengritag, Kokshaaltau, Meridional ridges, rare ascents today are made in the Saryjaz and Inylchek ridges. I’ll try to describe these ridges a little, assessing the difficult passes and peaks, moving from north to south.

Entrances, approaches, decoration

Unfortunately, it is not yet possible to conduct “end-to-end” hikes – starting in Kyrgyzstan and ending in China, or vice versa. You can only jump a little in one direction or another through a couple of passes. Therefore, for now these parts of the districts should be considered separately.

From Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan there are two highways for entering the region. From Kyrgyzstan - through the city of Karakol (formerly Przhevalsk) along a decent road to the Semenov, Mushketov, Yu. Inylchek glaciers (to the Maidaadyr outpost), Kaindy. From Kazakhstan – through the regional center Narynkol to the upper reaches of the river. Bayankol (the road ends at the Zharkulak mine), from where it’s a 12-15 km walk to the Bayankol glacier system. Mountain hikes generally begin and end at these points. But if there are no special restrictions on funds, you can use a helicopter - for small groups as a companion (i.e., for transfer), for large groups - you can order and pay for a separate board. Today the situation is such that the area is served only by 2 Kyrgyz helicopters. (I won’t be surprised if there will be one next year, because last season one burned out, but I really hope that there will be a second one). The flight is carried out from two points - Karkara (Kazakhstan, through Kazbek Valiev), the Maidaadyr outpost (Inylchek river, Tien Shan Travel, Vladimir Biryukov). There are several more camps serving clients in South Inylchek, besides Valiev and Biryukov there are three more. The first two plus one more are located at the confluence of Yu. Inylchek with the Zvezdochka glacier, two more are on the opposite side, under the slopes of Gorky. In Northern Inylchek, only Kazbek Valiev’s camp now operates (previously there were two). But according to V. Biryukov, this summer the Kyrgyz camp (Tien Shan Travel company) will also begin operating in Northern Inylchek. Through any of these companies you can visit the area, choosing more suitable prices. Over the years, I have used the services of Kazbek Valiev, the Dostuk-Tracking company (Bishkek, Shchetnikov N.). In recent years, I have been using the services of Vladimir Biryukov’s Tien Shan Travel company, also because I have many friends there.

Depending on which check-in method you use - through a company or on your own - transport prices will vary greatly. I don’t see the point of describing them here - you can look up their prices through the company on their websites, but I simply don’t know the prices for self-hired transport - I haven’t used it for too long. As for the helicopter, I think these are more stable numbers. Today, a helicopter hour in Kyrgyzstan costs $1,800, and an approach from Karkara or Maidaadir costs $150 per person. When flying, for example, from Maidaadyr, you can scatter drops to 2-3 places in a flight hour and land at the beginning of the route (in 2001, using a helicopter, we delivered drops to Southern and Northern Inylchek, and landed ourselves at the lower part of the Mushketov glacier , thus excluding traffic along river valleys from the route).

If we talk about the most common way to get there today, it’s by car from Bishkek through Karakol to Maidaadyr, then by helicopter to South or North Inylchek, or on foot (then you can drive a little further by car, or you can hire horse-drawn transport and use it to get almost to the Yu. Inylchek glacier). The second option is from Alma-Ata to Karkara, from where by helicopter to the same place - that is, to the South or North of Inylchek. People visit other places to start routes less often. And ascents are mainly carried out from the listed camps (a rare exception, repeated more than once in last years- this is an ascent to the Marble Wall from the Bayankol glaciers).

You should probably know that to visit the area through any state, you need to obtain registration (if entry/exit is carried out through different states, then in each of them) and passes to the border zone (for now, the expected complication of issuing passes has resulted in additional payment). All this is done in different places (registration with the police, passes with the border guards), so I prefer to use the services of companies.

On the Chinese side, things are somewhat different. In order to enter the area, you must obtain a military permit ($650 per group), a visitor's permit national park“Tomur” (another $650) and insurance for all participants ($72/person). So far, today I know only one tour operator who undertakes to arrange all this. And naturally, payment for operator services will also be added here.

To enter the region for the first time, we used the traditional route to the Kashgar Mountains at that time - Moscow-Bishkek-Osh (plane) - Irkeshtam checkpoint (car) - Kashgar (car) - Aksu (train) - village. Talaq (machine). This journey took 6 days. We made our way back in exactly the same way, but it took 4-5 days. The second time we went directly to China, Moscow-Urumqi-Aksu (plane) - Talak (car). This option took us 2 days, and today is the optimal route to the area. But if we talk about departure from Moscow, direct flight there is no flight to Urumqi right now, so we have to fly with a transfer. From the nearest cities, planes fly to Urumqi from Novosibirsk, Almaty, Bishkek. Therefore, you can travel by plane from any of these cities. Probably, you can also calculate the option of visiting these cities by train, and then by plane. The entire route by train probably does not make sense, although it is theoretically possible. Maybe this option will one day become acceptable - there is persistent talk about the construction of a railway connection from Kyrgyzstan to China (Kashgar). Considering the speed at which the Chinese are building, I would not be surprised if such a road appears within a year or two after the decision is made. In the meantime, it would be good if a road through Irkeshtam was built - maybe the drive through Kyrgyzstan, especially to the Kashgar Mountains (Kongur - Muztag-Ata) would become quite convenient.

From the village of Talak, where the border post is located, you can also drive by jeep in different directions - probably to the Temirsu glacier. The path known to us, used in all expeditions (by the Chinese, the Japanese, and us), leads towards the Kokyardavan pass (you can almost get to the pass). Then a caravan of horses is organized (although it is also possible to start on foot) and after 30-35 km along the river valley. In Chonterex you can go to the tongue of the Chonteren glacier, where all the expeditions established a base camp. The route can be covered on horseback in 1.5-2 days.

In the neighboring valley - Kichiktereksu - there is a coal mining plant. The valley itself is more extensive than Chonterexu, with many small settlements. Having gone down a fairly decent path to the plant, you can then go further by car. By the way, the trail here is really good, but it’s easy to lose it, which is what we did from time to time. In the upper reaches of the river (in a section of 10 kilometers) it quite often branches, and the chosen path may simply turn out to be a dead end (for example, to a summer camp). The main trail, however, goes 300-400 meters up or down the slope, which is quite difficult to guess. Sometimes they helped us get back on the trail local residents, for whom we seemed to act as a visiting zoo. To the river valley Kichikterex can also be visited at the start of any hike.

We did not try other check-in options. One of them is along the Muzart River, along which the road rises quite far, and you can get approximately to the level of the Tugbelchi glacier. There are probably other options for arrival, but other expeditions have yet to get acquainted with them. There are a lot of dirt roads in these places, only local residents know them well (a simple example - our tour operator knew nothing about the coal mining plant and the road there - otherwise we would have immediately planned one of the ending points of the hike there.

On the borders of five countries of Central Asia there are beautiful and majestic mountains - the Tien Shan. On the Eurasian mainland they are second only to the Himalayas and Pamirs, and are also one of the largest and most extensive Asian mountain systems. The Heavenly Mountains are rich not only in minerals, but also in interesting geographical facts. The description of any object is built from many points and important nuances, but only complete coverage of all directions will help to create a complete geographical image. But let's not rush, but let's dwell in detail on each section.

Figures and facts: all the most important things about the Heavenly Mountains

The name Tien Shan has Turkic roots, because the peoples of this particular linguistic group have inhabited this territory since time immemorial and still live in this region. If translated literally, the toponym will sound like Heavenly Mountains or Divine Mountains. The explanation for this is very simple, the Turks from time immemorial worshiped the sky, and if you look at the mountains, you get the impression that with their peaks they reach the very clouds, most likely that is why the geographical object received such a name. And now, some more facts about the Tien Shan.

  • Where does the description of any object usually begin? Of course, from numbers. The length of the Tien Shan mountains is more than two and a half thousand kilometers. Believe me, this is a pretty impressive figure. To compare, the territory of Kazakhstan extends for 3,000 kilometers, and Russia extends for 4,000 kilometers from north to south. Imagine these objects and appreciate the scale of these mountains.
  • The height of the Tien Shan mountains reaches 7000 meters. The system has 30 peaks with a height of more than 6 kilometers, while Africa and Europe cannot boast of a single such mountain.
  • I would especially like to highlight the highest point of the Heavenly Mountains. Geographically, it is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of China. There has been a very long debate around this issue, and neither side wants to give in. The highest peak of the Tien Shan mountains is the ridge with the triumphant name - Victory Peak. The height of the object is 7439 meters.

Location of one of the largest mountain systems in Central Asia

If you transfer the mountain system onto a political map, the object will fall on the territory of five states. More than 70% of the mountains are located in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China. The rest comes from Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. But the highest points and massive ridges are located in the northern part. If we consider geographical position the Tien Shan mountains from the regional side, then this will be the central part of the continent of Asia.

Geographical zoning and relief

The territory of the mountains can be divided into five orographic regions. Each has its own unique topography and ridge structure. Pay attention to the photo of the Tien Shan mountains, which is located above. Agree, the grandeur and stateliness of these mountains evoke admiration. Now, let’s take a closer look at the zoning of the system:

  • Northern Tien Shan. This part is almost entirely located on the territory of Kazakhstan. The main ridges are Zailiysky and Kungey Alatau. These mountains are distinguished by their average height (no more than 4000 m) and highly rugged terrain. There are many small rivers in the region that originate from glacial peaks. The region also includes the Ketmen Ridge, which Kazakhstan shares with Kyrgyzstan. On the territory of the latter, there is another ridge of the northern part - the Kyrgyz Alatau.
  • Eastern Tien Shan. Of the largest parts of the mountain system, we can distinguish: Borokhoro, Bogdo-Ula, as well as medium and small ranges: Iren-Khabyrga and Sarmin-Ula. The entire eastern part of the Heavenly Mountains is located in China, mainly where the permanent settlement of the Uighurs is located; it is from this local dialect that the ranges received their names.
  • Western Tien Shan. This orographic unit occupies the territories of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. The largest is the Karatau ridge, and then comes the Talas Alatau, which got its name from the river of the same name. These parts of the Tien Shan mountains are quite low, the relief drops to 2000 meters. This is because this is an older region, the territory of which has not undergone repeated mountain building. Thus, the destructive power of exogenous factors did its job.
  • Southwestern Tien Shan. This region is located in Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. In fact, this is the lowest part of the mountains, which consists of the Fregan ridge, framing the valley of the same name.
  • Central Tien Shan. This is the highest part of the mountain system. Its ranges occupy the territory of China, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. It is in this part that almost all six-thousanders are located.

"Gloomy Giant" - the highest point of the Heavenly Mountains

As mentioned earlier, the highest point of the Tien Shan Mountains is called Victory Peak. It is easy to guess that the toponym got its name in honor of a significant event - the victory of the USSR in the most difficult and bloody war of the 20th century. Officially, the mountain is located in Kyrgyzstan, near the border with China, not far from the autonomy of the Uyghurs. However, for a long time the Chinese side did not want to recognize the ownership of the object by the Kyrgyz, and even after documenting the fact, it continues to look for ways to take possession of the desired peak.

This object is very popular among climbers; it is on the list of five seven-thousanders that must be conquered to receive the title “Snow Leopard”. Near the mountain, just 16 kilometers to the southwest, is the second highest peak of the Divine Mountains. We are talking about Khan Tengri - the highest point of the Republic of Kazakhstan. Its height is only slightly less than seven kilometers and is 6995 meters.

Centuries-old history of rocks: geology and structure

In the place where the Tien Shan Mountains are located, there is an ancient belt of increased endogenous activity; these zones are also called geosynclines. Since the system has a fairly decent height, this suggests that it was subject to secondary uplift, although it has a rather ancient origin. Research shows that the base of the Heavenly Mountains is composed of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic rocks. The mountain strata were subjected to long-term deformations and the influence of endogenous forces, which is why the minerals are represented by metamorphosed gneisses, sandstones and typical limestone and slate.

Since much of this region was flooded during the Mesozoic, the mountain valleys are covered with lacustrine sediments (sandstone and clay). The activity of glaciers also did not pass without a trace; morainic deposits stretch from the highest peaks of the Tien Shan mountains and reach the very border of the snow line.

The repeated uplift of the mountains in the Neogene had a very significant impact on their geological structure; relatively “young” volcanic-type rocks are found in the parent basement. It is these inclusions that are the mineral and metallic minerals in which the Divine Mountains are very rich.

The lowest part of the Tien Shan, which is located in the south, has been exposed to exogenous agents for thousands of years: the sun, winds, glaciers, temperature changes, and water during flooding. All this could not but affect the structure of the rocks; nature greatly battered their slopes and “exposed” the mountains to the very parent rock. The complex geological history influenced the heterogeneity of the Tien Shan relief, which is why high snowy peaks alternate with valleys and dilapidated plateaus.

Gifts of the Heavenly Mountains: minerals

A description of the Tien Shan Mountains cannot do without mentioning mineral resources, because this system brings very good income to the states in whose territories it is located. First of all, these are complex conglomerates of polymetallic ores. Large deposits are found in all five countries. Most of the minerals in the depths of the mountains are lead and zinc, but you can find something rarer. For example, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan have established antimony mining, and there are also separate deposits of molybdenum and tungsten. In the southern part of the mountains, near the Fregan Valley, coal is mined, as well as other fossil fuels: oil and gas. Rare elements found include strontium, mercury and uranium. But most of all, the territory is rich in building materials and semi-precious stones. The slopes and foothills of the mountains are strewn with small deposits of cement, sand and various types of granite.

However, many mineral resources are not accessible for development, because in the mountainous regions the infrastructure is very poorly developed. Mining in hard-to-reach places requires very modern technical means and large financial investments. States are in no hurry to develop the subsoil of the Tien Shan and often transfer the initiative to the private hands of foreign investors.

Ancient and modern glaciation of the mountain system

The height of the Tien Shan mountains is several times higher than the snow line, which means it is no secret that the system is covered by a huge number of glaciers. However, the situation with glaciers is very unstable, because in the last 50 years alone, their number has decreased by almost 25% (3 thousand square kilometers). For comparison, this is even larger than the area of ​​the city of Moscow. The depletion of snow and ice cover in the Tien Shan threatens the region with a serious environmental disaster. Firstly, it is a natural source of nutrition for rivers and alpine lakes. Secondly, this is the only source of fresh water for all living things that inhabit the mountain slopes, including local peoples and settlements. If changes continue at the same pace, then by the end of the 21st century, the Tien Shan will lose more than half of its glaciers and will leave four countries without a valuable water resource.

Non-freezing lake and other water bodies

The highest mountain of the Tien Shan is located near the highest lake in Asia - Issyk-Kul. This object belongs to the state of Kyrgyzstan, and is popularly called the Unfreezing Lake. It's all about low pressure at high altitude and water temperature, thanks to which the surface of this lake never freezes. This place is the main tourist area of ​​the region, covering an area of ​​more than 6 thousand square kilometers, there is a huge number of high mountain resorts and various recreational areas.

Another picturesque water body of the Tien Shan is located in China, literally a hundred kilometers from the main trading city of Urumqi. We are talking about Lake Tienshi - this is a kind of “Pearl of the Heavenly Mountains”. The water there is so clean and transparent that it is difficult to realize the depth because it seems that you can literally reach the bottom with your hand.

In addition to lakes, the mountains are cut by a huge number of river valleys. Small rivers originate from the very tops and are fed by melted glacial waters. Many of them are lost on the mountain slopes, others unite into larger bodies of water and carry their waters to the foot.

From picturesque meadows to icy peaks: climate and natural conditions

Where the Tien Shan Mountains are located, natural zones replace each other with height. Due to the fact that the orographic units of the system have heterogeneous relief, different natural zones may be located at the same level in different parts of the Heavenly Mountains:

  • Alpine meadows. They can be located both at an altitude of more than 2500 meters and at 3300 meters. The peculiarity of this landscape is the lush, hilly valleys that surround bare rocks.
  • Forest zone. Quite rare in this region, mainly in inaccessible high mountain gorges.
  • Forest-steppe. The trees in this zone are low, mostly small-leaved or coniferous. To the south, the meadow and steppe landscape is more clearly visible.
  • Steppe. This natural area covers foothills and valleys. There is a huge variety of meadow grasses and steppe plants. The further south the region, the more clearly visible is the semi-desert and in some places even desert landscape.

The climate of the Heavenly Mountains is very harsh and unstable. It is influenced by opposing air masses. In summer, the Tien Shan Mountains are under the rule of the tropics, and in winter, polar currents dominate here. In general, the region can be called quite arid and sharply continental. In summer there are often dry winds and unbearable heat. In winter, temperatures can drop to record levels, and frosts often occur in the off-season. Precipitation is very unstable, with most of it occurring in April and May. It is the unstable climate that influences the reduction in the area of ​​ice sheets. Also, sudden changes in temperature and constant winds have a very negative effect on the topography of the region. The mountains are slowly but surely being destroyed.

An untouched corner of nature: animals and plants

The Tien Shan Mountains have become home to a huge number of living beings. Animal world extremely diverse and varies significantly by region. For example, the Northern part of the mountains is represented by European and Siberian types, while the Western Tien Shan is inhabited by typical representatives of the Mediterranean, African and Himalayan regions. You can also safely meet typical representatives of mountain fauna: snow leopards, snowcocks and mountain goats. The forests are inhabited by common foxes, wolves and bears.

The flora is also very diverse; fir and Mediterranean walnut can easily coexist in the region. In addition, a huge number of medicinal plants and valuable herbs are found here. This is a real phyto-pantry of Central Asia.

It is very important to protect the Tien Shan from human influence; for this purpose, two reserves and one national park. There are so few places left on the planet with untouched nature, so it is important to devote every effort to preserving this wealth for posterity.

Central Tien Shan

The Central Tien Shan is the highest and most majestic part of the Tien Shan mountain system. This is a huge “knot” of mountain ranges with a total length of about 500 km from west to east and 300 km from north to south. This is the most picturesque region of the Tien Shan, which is a complex system of intertwined mountain ranges (Terskey-Ala-Too, Sary-Jaz, Kui-Liu, Tengri-Tag, Enilchek, Kakshaal-Too, Meridional Ridge, etc.), crowned with majestic peaks the northernmost of highest mountains planets - Lenin Peak (7134 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and the fantastic Khan Tengri Pyramid (7010 m, probably the most beautiful and difficult peak of the Tien Shan to climb). In the north, the Boro-Khoro ridge connects the Tien Shan with the Dzungarian Alatau system. Almost the entire territory of this region is located above 1500 m above sea level, and the mountain peaks are covered with centuries-old snow caps, giving rise to many dozens of glaciers, rivers and streams. There are over 8,000 ice fields and glaciers here, the most representative of which are the Southern (length about 60 km) and Northern (35 km) Inylchek (Enilchek, “The Little Prince”), Jetyoguz-Karakol (22 km), Kaindy (26 km) , Semenova (21 km) and others, whose total area exceeds 8100 sq. km.

The relief of most of the Tien Shan ridges is high-mountainous, strongly dissected by numerous valleys (the northern slopes are much more rugged than the southern ones), with highly developed glacial forms. There are many screes on the slopes, there are glaciers, on glaciers there are moraines, and at the foot there are numerous alluvial cones. Mountain river valleys have a large difference in height and a clearly visible stepped profile with flat swampy terraces - “sazs”. Many large valleys are surrounded by high-mountain plateaus - "syrts", whose height sometimes reaches 4700 m. On the plateaus and highlands of the mid-altitude part of the ridges there are high-mountain pastures "jailoo", covered with forbs and alpine meadows. At altitudes from 1000 to 2000 meters, the foothills of the ridges are bordered by foothill adyrs. There are about 500 lakes here, the largest of which are Song-Kol (Son-Kul - “disappearing lake”, 270 sq. km) and Chatyr-Kol (Chatyr-Kul, 153 sq. km).

The Central Tien Shan is a real Mecca of international mountaineering, therefore it is the vicinity of the seven-thousanders that is the most studied part of the Tien Shan. The most popular points of attraction for climbers and trekkers are the areas of the Tengri-Tag ridge and Khan Tengri peak ("Lord of the Sky", 7010 m), Tomur Pass, Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and the Inylchek glacier, the basin of the unique Merzbacher Lake in the eastern part of the mountain system, Semenov-Tien-Shansky peak (4875 m), Free Korea peak (4740 m) and the famous Crown (4855 m) as part of the Kyrgyz ridge, Communism peak (7505 m) and Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m, this is already the Pamirs, but few climbers would agree to pass by these great mountains), the ice walls of the Kakshaal-Too (Kokshaal-Tau) ridge, which includes three peaks with a height of more than 6000 m and about a dozen peaks with a height of more than 5000 m, the Ak-Shyyrak massif and many other, no less attractive regions.

Despite the harsh climate and mountainous landscape, the territory of the Tien Shan has been inhabited since ancient times, as evidenced by numerous stone sculptures, rock paintings and burial grounds scattered in abundance throughout the territory of this mountainous country. Historical and cultural monuments of the medieval period are widely represented - fortified settlements like Koshoy-Korgon, which arose on the basis of nomadic camps, khan headquarters and on caravan routes from the Fergana Valley through the Tien Shan. One of the most famous and popular tourist sites in this region is the Tash-Rabat caravanserai (X-XII centuries), built in the inaccessible but picturesque Kara-Koyun gorge. Also widely known are Saimaluu-Tash or Saimaly-Tash (“Patterned Stones”) - a whole gallery of rock paintings in the gorge of the same name (more than 107 thousand petroglyphs of the 2nd-3rd millennia BC) not far from Kazarman, stone sculptures of Kyr-Dzhol (VI -VIII centuries) on the shores of Lake Song-Kol, petroglyphs of the Chumysh rocks (III-I thousand years BC, Fergana Range), numerous rock carvings of the Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Talas regions. The ancient caravan route through the Torugart pass (height 3752 m) is also worthy of attention. This long (total length about 700 km) route from Central Asia to Chinese Kashgar (Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region) passes through cold gorges and narrow passes of Terksey-Ala-Too, Moldo-Too, At-Bashi and Maydantag, through spectacularly beautiful landscapes and the most ancient caravan routes of the Great Silk Road.

Western Tien Shan

The Western Tien Shan mountain system lies on the very edge of the Tien Shan mountainous country, reaching out with its spurs to the hot sands of the deserts of Central Asia. The relief of these places is somewhat lower than in the central part of the mountain system, the leveling surfaces are more extensive, and the elevated plateaus are less numerous (Palatkhon, Angrenskoye, Ugamskoye and Karzhantau - all in the west of the region). Highest points The Western Tien Shan are Chatkal Peak (4503 m) in the ridge of the same name, Manas Peak (4482 m) in the Talas Alatau and Mount Baubash-Ata (4427 m) in the western part of the Fergana Range. Glaciation is insignificant, the snow line runs at altitudes of 3600-3800 m on the northern slopes and 3800-4000 m on the southern ones. The rivers of the Western Tien Shan (Angren, Akbulak, Itokar, Karaunkur, Koksu, Maydantal, Maili-Suu, Naryn, Oygaing, Padysha-Ata, Pskem, Sandalash, Ugam, Chatkal and others) have rapids, are fed by glaciers and snow, and flow along narrow gorges (in the upper reaches), in the middle reaches they usually have wide valleys, but in the lower reaches they again form canyon shapes. Best places for rafting and rafting than local rivers, it is simply difficult to find.

The vegetation of the Western Tien Shan, despite the low amount of precipitation that falls here, is quite diverse - steppes and deciduous forests in the lower belt, shrubs and meadows in the middle, as well as alpine meadows and high-mountain heaths closer to the peaks. About 370 species of animals and approximately 1,200 species of higher plants live here, and the complex topography leads to the formation of numerous local ecocenoses inhabited by unique species of plants and animals. Therefore, the mountainous regions of the Western Tien Shan, although developed by tourists to a much lesser extent than the eastern regions, have their own undoubted set of attractions. The level of difficulty of the hikes carried out here is much lower, so less prepared tourists can take part in them, and their relatively short length makes it even easier. The easiest routes are laid through the Keksuysky, Kuraminsky, Sargardon-Kumbel, Ugamsky and Chatkalsky ridges. Somewhat more difficult, II-III categories, go through the Talas Alatau, Pskem and Maydantal (Maidantag) ridges, along the Baubash-Ata, Isfan-Dzhaylyau, Kekirim-Tau (Fergana ridge) mountains, and the most difficult routes pass in these same areas, capturing the surroundings of the peaks Chatkal (4503 m), Manas (4482 m) and Kattakumbel (3950 m) and Babayob (3769 m), fortunately the terrain here is so diverse that it allows you to pass sections of all difficulty levels within one route.

The most favorable time for trekking in the mountains of the Western Tien Shan is from the end of April to the end of October, but already in March-May there is a huge number of both organized groups and “wild” tourists.