The Basque country reveals its secrets. Basque Country: where is the best place to relax and buy real estate What is the Basque Country
Baskonia, Basque Country or Euskadi (Pais Vasco, Euskadi) is one of the most unusual historical regions not only in Spain, but throughout Western Europe. Lying in the north of the country, in the western spurs of the Pyrenees and the eastern part of the Cantabrian Mountains, this autonomous community differs markedly from the rest of Spain in both ethnic composition and language, as well as in climate and level of industry. Euskal Herria, as the Basques themselves call this land, includes three regions - the Basque Country itself (Pais Vasco), the regions of Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia, plus two vast provinces inhabited by Basques, in France and Navarre (administratively the latter are not part of the Basque Country). For many centuries the Basques have preserved their ancient culture, which they brought from their historical homeland in time immemorial, the most likely location of which is considered to be the territory of modern Georgia (but this is only one of the theories). The Basque language - Euskara, or Euskera - is considered one of the oldest and most mysterious in Europe, since it incorporates ancient word forms of the Caucasian peoples, and later Iberian and Aquitanian dialects of the Iberian Peninsula, and many terms that have no analogues in any of the known languages of the Earth. At the same time, the Basque language does not have a standard pronunciation (the number of dialects is actually equal to the number of settlements), but the differences between the dialects are small. All this together allows us to classify it as a group of Proto-Indo-European languages, that is, those that were formed long before the emergence of the modern linguistic space.
The origins of the Basques themselves are equally mysterious. Genetically, they are almost not related to any of the modern peoples of the Mediterranean, which is easily traced even at the level of blood composition. Equally original are local traditions and customs, folk cuisine, and especially dance and song rituals. At the same time, the mystery of the origin of this people and their language has not yet been revealed.
Despite the fact that this is the most industrialized region of the peninsula (and therefore one of the richest), the nature of the interior of the Basque Country is little affected by humans - neat and quiet villages coexist here with lush mountain vegetation and a wild rocky coastline, the transport system is excellently developed, and the proximity of the border supports trade and tourism. All this allows us to classify the Basque Country as one of the most interesting regions of Spain.
The city is the largest locality And administrative center province of Vizcaya, as well as one of the largest ports in the country.
15 km from the center of Bilbao to the north lies the popular beach area of the Sopelana area (there is also a “wild” beach, and in the Playa de Ametara area there is a nudist area). 30 km southeast of Bilbao, the lands of the Urquiola Natural Park begin, covering the slopes of green mountain range Durangesado ( highest point- Mount Amboto, 1330 m).
The administrative center of the province of Gipuzkoa, the city is located in the very northeast of the Basque Country, on the shores of La Concha Bay near the French border.
To the west of San Sebastian begins the picturesque rocky coast of the Costa Basca - the birthplace of the sparkling wine "txakoli" and the region of many ancient cities. Getaria(Getaria) is famous for the magnificent Church of San Salvador (14th century), the Balenciaga Museum (the famous designer was born in this city) and the Elcano Fiesta (Juan Sebastian Elcano, who was born here, was the only member of Magellan’s crew to return home after the famous circumnavigation). Sumaya(Zumaia) - with its beaches Playa de Itsurun and Playa Santiago. Near the city Aspeitia(Azpeitia, 16 km south of Zumaia) there is a grandiose basilica www.santuariodeloyola.com Sanctuary de Loyola (XVIII century), built as a monument to Ignacio (Inijo) Lopez de Loyola, who was born in these parts, better known as Saint Ignatius of Loyola (1491 -1556). IN Markina-Shemein(Markina-Xemein) there is the Pelota Academy (pelota is a national sport, a kind of lapta), and in Sciorza Bolivar(Ziortza-Bolivar) - Simon Bolivar Museum, as well as a beautiful monastery and Romanesque church (XVI century).
Around San Sebastian, the historic region of Guipuzcoa (the smallest in Spain) is a centuries-old center of Basque language and culture. Here you can visit the medieval city Tolosa with its traditional carnival (Tolosa is the only city in the country where this traditional holiday, incorporating all Basque traditions, was held even during the period of the ban on the use of the Basque language introduced by the dictator Franco) and an extensive historical center, the picturesque mountain slopes of the Sierra de Aralar and Sierra de Urquilla, Aransazu monastery (XV-XX centuries) - the main place of Basque pilgrimage, a prosperous city Ordisia with a well-preserved historical center (XVI century), a village famous for its old mansions Segura, "Basque Toledo" - town Onati(75 km south of San Sebastian) with its wonderful Baroque buildings, the village Bera de Bidasoa with its unique stone buildings (XVI-XIX centuries), as well as the open museum of the sculptor Eduardo Chillida in Hernani(7 km south of San Sebastian).
Immortalized by the tragic painting, Picasso is the traditional center of Basque nationalism and separatism.
5 km from the city is the Paleolithic cave complex of Cueva de Santimamine, a picturesque village Ohm with its “painted forest” (the work of the artist Augustin Ibarrola), as well as the Mundaka watershed just to the west, declared by UNESCO as a cultural and natural reserve of global importance (it contains the most diverse set of ecosystems in the Basque Country and a real haven for millions of migratory birds from all over Europe) .
The official capital of Euskadi and the province of Alava (Arab) - (Spanish Vitoria, Basque Gasteiz, officially Vitoria-Gasteiz).
Basque Country: where is the best place to relax and buy real estate?
The Basque Country (País Vasco) is an autonomous community in northern Spain, on the border with France, and one of the most “untapped” regions of the country by foreigners: according to the Association of Property Registration Inspectors (Colegio de Registradores de España), in 2014 foreign buyers Only 1.5% of transactions were made here (the average in Spain is 13%).
Alava: rural landscapes and wine tourism
Among the provinces of the Basque Country, Alava is the most unpopular region among foreigners. According to the Association of Real Estate Registration Inspectors, in 2014, purchases by foreign investors accounted for only 0.8% of the total number of real estate transactions in Alava. For comparison, in Vizcaya the share of foreigners in the market is 1.4%, in Gipuzkoa - 2.0%.
Alava has many ancient towns with traditional architectureMost of Alava's territory is plain, lined with vineyards. There are picturesque villages and medieval fortresses. The city is interesting for culture lovers Vitoria-Gasteiz, rich in architectural monuments: palaces, monasteries, churches and simply beautiful residential buildings. But there are no resorts in Alava, since the province has no access to the sea.
But in Alava it will be interesting for fans of wine tourism. Spaniards from other regions often come here to taste wine. This is where the Marqués de Riscal wineries are located. The futuristic Starwood Hotels & Resorts, designed by the famous architect Frank Gehry, is especially popular among lovers of this drink. It offers a wine restaurant and spa wine therapy.
Real estate in Alava is cheaper than in the other two provinces of the Basque Country - on average about 2 thousand euros/m².
The layout of housing in the Basque Country differs from the layout of houses and apartments on the Mediterranean coast of Spain: in the north there are often properties with a large number of rooms. For example, there are many apartments on the market with an area of up to 550 m² with 5–8 bedrooms, and the average area of two- and three-bedroom properties can be 150–300 m². This scale is explained by the fact that historically the northern part of Spain was a vacation spot for high-ranking families and nobles, members of the royal family. In addition, having 5–8 children in a family in those days was the norm, hence the number of rooms. Large areas are also due to the peculiarities of the climate of the region: precipitation here is more abundant and the temperature is lower than in the south, so local residents spend time at home more often than southerners.
Vizcaya: developed economy and natural attractions
Vizcaya is one of the most prosperous and industrialized provinces of Spain. On its 80 km long coastline there are numerous resorts with sandy beaches surrounded by cliffs and many fishing villages.
The largest city in the Basque Country and the capital of Vizcaya - Bilbao. More than 350 thousand people live here. Among other things, it is the largest commercial port and one of the most dynamically developing cities in the country. Many people consider Bilbao not the best beautiful city, especially its industrial suburbs. But Bilbao also has its advantages: it is a city of entertainment with many restaurants to suit every taste. One of the symbols of the city is the Guggenheim Museum, which, like the Starwood Hotels & Resorts in Alava, was built according to the design of Frank Gehry.
15 km from Bilbao there is a beach where locals come to relax. The surrounding area has four renowned golf courses, many hiking trails, spa hotels and thermal springs; Alpine skiing is popular in the winter months, and horseback riding in the summer.
The average cost per square meter in Bilbao exceeds 3 thousand euros, but this is not yet the most expensive city for buying property in Vizcaya. You can buy an apartment with 2-3 bedrooms here at a price of approximately 110 thousand to 230 thousand euros.
Bilbao struck me as a modern and growing city with interesting architecture. It has everything a metropolitan resident needs: schools (British, American, German, French), offices, fashionable shops, medical facilities and, of course, real estate for every taste - economy class housing, mid-price range and luxury apartments in central streets. At the same time, Bilbao - quiet city with a favorable climate, parks and eco-reserves in the surrounding area. Property owners in Bilbao typically travel to the beach in Getxo (10–15 minutes by metro or car).
It is in Getxo, a town located 15 km from Bilbao, that the highest property prices in Vizcaya. A square meter here costs an average of 3,316 euros - this is one of the most expensive markets in Spain.
In the 19th century, Getcho became popular among the wealthy bourgeoisie. Nowadays, it is also in demand among wealthy people, which explains the high prices for houses and apartments. Getxo attracts buyers of luxury real estate due to its close location to Bilbao (the provincial capital can be reached from here by metro) and developed infrastructure with a lot of entertainment: there is a marina, a golf course and several sports complexes.
Northeast of Bilbao is located Bermeo(Bermeo) - a port city with a fishing harbor and a large number of fish restaurants, - and Mundaka(Mundaca) is a small resort that is interesting to everyone: surfers, gourmets, and art lovers.
Just north of Mundaka is Urdaibai - a protected natural area with swamps, lakes, sand dunes, caves and the “magical” forest of Oma (Bosque de Oma), in which pine trees grow, painted in different colors by the artist Agustín Ibarrola.
About 20 km east of the Oma forest there is a seaside town Lekeitio- one of the most beautiful places on the coast of the Bay of Biscay. This city competes with San Sebastian for the title of resort capital of the Basque Country. The calling card of Lekeitio is the turquoise sea with snow-white sailboats and a sandy beach, overlooking the nearby island of St. Nicholas (Isla de San Nicolás). The old city has a lot of interesting things: palaces, towers, churches, monasteries.
50 km from Bilbao there is a port town Elanchove(Elanchove), which is surrounded by steep cliffs covered with forest, is one of the most interesting places for a holiday in the Basque Country.
Gipuzkoa: fish restaurants and luxury accommodation
Gipuzkoa is the most popular region among foreign property buyers in the Basque Country and the smallest province in Spain. It borders the French department of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques.
The 50 km long coastline of Guipuzcoa is home to many fishing villages, beaches and lush cliffs. The main resorts in the province have common features: quality beaches, excellent seafood restaurants and an abundance of attractions.
The administrative center of Guipuzcoa is San Sebastian. Many people put this city on a par with such fashionable resorts, like Nice and Monte Carlo, it is often called Paris on the Atlantic or Spanish Biarritz, since the central areas of San Sebastian are architecturally reminiscent of French cities. In 2013, Condé Nast Traveler named the city the fifth most popular tourist destination in the world and the first in Spain. San Sebastian attracts tourists and property buyers with its blooming gardens, summer festivals, the country's best restaurants, green hills and picturesque views of the Bay of Biscay. “This is one of the most beautiful and safest cities on the Atlantic coast. The city is popular among surfers; almost every local resident is passionate about this sport,” says Alina Batyrshina.
Many Spanish analysts call San Sebastian the most expensive real estate market in Spain. However, according to data from Fotocasa.es, a square meter in Zarautz (another city in Guipuzcoa) costs more - an average of 4,331 euros versus 4,124 euros in San Sebastian. However, in the provincial capital there are villas that are put up for sale for 5–6 thousand euros/m².
San Sebastian survived the crisis better than other cities in Spain: if in the country as a whole, housing prices fell by 40–45% from 2007 to 2015, then in this city the decrease was no more than 10%. Today, high-quality apartments here cost from 450 thousand euros to several million. Such high property prices in San Sebastian are associated with the local high standard of living (a third higher than the national level and even higher than in Madrid and Barcelona) and high salaries (about a quarter above the Spanish average).
20 km from San Sebastian is resort town Zarautz. It is interesting for its three-kilometer beach (the longest in the Basque Country), as well as Narros Castle (Palacio de Narros) with a collection of Van Dyck paintings. Zarautz has been popular as a resort since the late 19th century, when many luxurious mansions were built along the coast. People came here at different times summer rest Queen Isabella II of Spain and Queen Fabiola de Mora y Aragon of Belgium. Now many of the old mansions have been demolished and apartment buildings have been erected in their place. Zarautz is also famous good restaurants, one of which belongs to the famous Spanish chef and TV presenter Carlos Arguinano. In addition, the resort is also famous for its waves, ideal for surfing. World championships in this sport are held here. A 20-minute drive from Zarautz there is another center of attraction for surfers - a resort Deba(Deba).
A little east of Zarautz there is a fishing village Getaria(Guetaria), one of the most beautiful on the coast. The famous navigator Juan Sebastián Elcano was born here, who made the world's first trip around the world in the 16th century. Getaria has many restaurants with terraces and ancient buildings, and there is also a spacious sandy beach. Attractions include the Gothic Church of San Salvador (Iglesia de San Salvador), the Aldamar Palace (Palacio de Aldamar) and the traditional houses of San Roque Street.
About 20 km east of San Sebastian, near the border with France, there is a fishing town Fuenterrabia. It is famous for its fish restaurants and well-preserved buildings of the old town. In the summer, Madrid residents love to come here on vacation. Many Spaniards admit that the quality of local cuisine is at the same level as in San Sebastian. A square meter in Fuenterrabia costs an average of 3,600 euros.
The Basque Country is conducive to travel. Of all the cities in the region, I would recommend buyers choose San Sebastian or Bilbao. Both places are suitable for permanent residence and for holidays. San Sebastian is loved by older people, families with children, and young people. Life in this city never stops day or night, and in the summer season it is popular with tourists. Bilbao is a calmer city compared to San Sebastian, but it also has all the necessary infrastructure for living and recreation.
For families with children and youth: Bilbao, San Sebastian;
for yacht owners: Getxo, Leikeitio, Elanchove;
for gourmets: Bermeno, Bilbao,
San Sebastian, Zarautz, Fuenterrabia;
for surfers: Deba, Mundaka,
San Sebastian, Zarautz;
for golf lovers: Bilbao, Getxo;
for living all year round: Bilbao,
San Sebastian.
Yulia Kozhevnikova, Tranio
The Basque Country, also known as Basque Country or Euskadi (Pais Vasco, Euskadi) is undoubtedly one of the most mysterious and distinctive historical regions in the entire Western Europe. The Basque Country occupies the territory of northern Spain and the southeastern part of France, it is inhabited by the most ancient European people, who managed to preserve their rich culture, traditions, identity, as well as their original language. The Basque Country is one of 17 autonomous regions in Spain. Autonomous status was obtained in 1979.
The Basque Country in Spain consists of three provinces: Alava - the capital of Vitoria-Gasteiz, Vizkaya - the capital of Bilbao and the province of Gipuzcoa - the capital of San Seastian. This also includes the vast province of Navarre, inhabited by Basques, which is not administratively part of the Basque Country. The provinces of Lapurdie, Zuberoa and Lower Navarre make up the French Basque Country. The official administrative capital of the Basque Country in Spain is Vitoria-Gasteiz (Spanish - Vitoria, Basque - Gasteiz) Euskal-Herria - this is what the Basques themselves call these lands, literally means “Land where they speak the Basque language” French Basque Country Northern Euskadi is called Iparraldea, and the Spanish one is Southern Euskadi - Hegoaldea.
“The story about the history of any people usually begins with the word “came” - in such and such a century the Celts came there, the Iberians - there, the Visigoths - there... In violation of established traditions, the story about the Basques should begin like this: “The Vascon tribes have lived on their land since time immemorial, probably since the very creation of the world...” There is almost no exaggeration in this formulation, and the proof of this is the sensational discoveries of archaeologists, which completely changed the idea of when the European continent was inhabited Not so long ago. in the north of Spain in Atapuerca, scientists discovered the jaw of the ancestor of a person of the modern physical type (Homo antecessor) who lived one million 200 thousand years ago. Moreover, this find is not the only one - since the beginning of the 90s, numerous remains of ancient people and primitive tools have been discovered in Atapuerca! , animal bones, with drawings scratched on them. The likelihood that the ancient inhabitants of the Ebro River valley are the ancestors of the Basques is very high. It is not only a matter of the geography of the settlement of the ethnic group - the Basque language itself, Euskara, testifies to the greatest antiquity of this people. Euskara is not associated with any language in the world and, apparently, arose “from scratch” at the dawn of mankind, becoming the first language of southern Europe. In ancient times, the Basques inhabited not only the Iberian Peninsula, but also part of the territory of France and Belgium, but gradually other peoples who came to Europe pushed them to the very ends of the earth under the protection of the Cantabrian Mountains. This territory became the last bridgehead from which there was no longer a path to retreat. The Basques, hardworking creators, often had to take up the sword, in fierce battles defending not only their lands, but also the very right to exist as a single people. In ancient times they opposed the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths, Franks, Normans; in the Middle Ages - to the Moors, and much later - to Napoleonic guards. Throughout their history, the people of Euskadi have not submitted to any invader, and even the mighty Rome was only able to partially conquer the Basque territories. It was this fanatical resilience that allowed the Basques to preserve their unique language and traditions. For Rome, they remained a mysterious, incomprehensible and unconquered people of seers, famous throughout the empire for their art of foreseeing the future. And yet, not a single soothsayer could predict what fate awaited both the Roman Empire and the Basques themselves...
Rome fell, swept away by an avalanche of barbarians, and cruel suffering swept over the Iberian Peninsula. Then the barbarians were replaced by the Visigoths, and several centuries later new invaders - the Arabs and Moors (Berbers). In 709, they invaded the territory of the Visigothic Kingdom (the southern neighbor of the Basques), and five years later they already controlled almost the entire peninsula. Only a small area between the Cantabrian Mountains and the Bay of Biscay, inhabited by Cantabras, Asturs and Basques, remained unoccupied. The remnants of the Visigothic army who fled to Asturias received the support of the local population, and in 718 they defeated the Moors for the first time. This date is considered to be the beginning of the Reconquista (reconquest) - the process of liberation by Christians of lands occupied by Muslims. The Reconquista lasted almost eight centuries and ended only in 1492.
During the early Middle Ages, several Basque states were located on the territory of Euskadi, which retained their independence until the 11th-14th centuries. However, the strengthening of Spanish statehood led to the fact that by the beginning of the 16th century the Basques formally became part of the kingdom. However, it should be noted that, despite the partial loss of Basque sovereignty, the Spanish monarchs recognized the independence of this people, as evidenced by many documents of that era.
The turn of the 15th-16th centuries, marked by the completion of the Reconquista and the discovery of America, became a turning point for Spain that changed the history of the country. The Spanish state owed much of its power to the Basques, whose role in the discovery and development of the American continent can hardly be overestimated. The sailors of Euskadi probably crossed the Atlantic more than once before Columbus, and therefore it is no coincidence that the Basques became the core of the Genoese expedition and the captains of all his caravels. The participation of the Basques in the colonization of the New World, their active mediation in trade with France, Italy and England, and the development of the metallurgical and shipbuilding industries created a powerful economic base for the development of Spain.
The intersection of economic interests, as well as the relative weakness of the central government, allowed Euskadi to maintain a special status for several centuries. Privileges in trade, taxation, military service, administration and foreign relations were enshrined in the code of Basque laws (fueros), and had to be confirmed by each Spanish monarch upon his accession to the throne. The king was to visit the spiritual capital of Euskadi, Guernica, and swear before the sacred oak tree to respect the rights and freedoms of the Basques.
Until the middle of the 19th century, the Basque provinces of Araba (Alava), Gipuzkoa and Vizcaya retained their ancient cartas, but the intensified forced Spanishization of Euskadi, Catalonia and Galicia at that time became the main reason for the Basques to join the Carlist movement. The sad result of participation in two Carlist wars (dynastic wars between two branches of the Spanish Bourbons in the 30s and 70s of the 19th century) for the Basques was first a partial and then a complete loss of autonomy and the abolition of fueros.
By the beginning of the 20th century, Euskadi had lost its freedom, but retained a leading role in the Spanish economy. More than half of the total number of Spanish ships were built in the shipyards of the Basque Country, 45% of the turnover of the Spanish merchant fleet was also provided by supplies from the Basque provinces, and by the 30s of the 20th century the Basques were mining half of all iron ore and smelting three quarters of all Spanish steel... ........"
Elena Artamonova
The Basque Country, also known as Baskonia or Euskadi, is a region in the north-east of Spain, which is divided into three provinces: Vizcaya, Alava, Gipuzkoa. Most of the population lives in Vizcaya, its center is fashionable and cultural Bilbao, main city in Guipuzcoa there is youth and surfer San Sebastian, and almost the entire territory of Alava is nature reserves and villages. Lovers of antiquities will appreciate the ancient architecture of the cities, gourmets will appreciate the original Basque cuisine (no, it’s not just seafood and pintxos) and local cider, surfers will appreciate the steepest waves in Spain, and partygoers will appreciate the discos and festivals.
Residents of the Basque Country speak the Basque language, which is very different from the Castilian norm of Spanish. Its roots go back to the pre-Roman era, and it is unlike any other European language.
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How to get to the Basque Country
The biggest international Airport in the Basque Country is located in Bilbao, there are no direct flights from Russia. From Moscow Sheremetyevo, Air France flies there via Paris and Brussels Airlines via Brussels. The journey takes from 6.5 hours one way, ticket prices start from 170 EUR round trip. Prices on the page are as of August 2019.
Bizkaibus bus number 3247 runs from Bilbao Airport to the city every 15 minutes. The stop is located at the exit from the terminal; tickets are sold at the ticket office next to it. The bus goes to Termibus Central Bus Station and also stops at Moya Square. The journey to the final destination is 20 minutes, fare: 3 EUR, by taxi to the center: 15-25 EUR. There is a direct bus from Bilbao Airport to San Sebastian. Pesa buses (office website in English) run every half hour from 7:45 to 23:45, the journey takes 1 hour 15 minutes, the fare is 17 EUR.
There is also an airport in San Sebastian, but flying there takes longer and is more expensive. The fastest and most affordable option is through Barcelona on joint flights of Aeroflot, Vueling and Es Seven. Departure from Domodedovo, arrival at Sheremetyevo. The journey takes from 7.5 hours, tickets will cost from 350 EUR in both directions. There are several buses from the airport to the city center, all of them go to Plaza Gipuzkoa. The journey takes 15 minutes, the fare is 1.65-2.35 EUR, by taxi - 8-10 EUR.
Search for flights to Bilbao (the closest airport to the Basque Country)
Transport
You can travel around the Basque Country by trains and intercity buses. Railways The company Euskotren represents here (office site in English), trains run between major cities. The journey from Bilbao to San Sebastian will take from 4 to 6.5 hours and will cost from 30 EUR one way. In the morning the train departs at 6:30, 9:20 and 9:40, in the afternoon at 15:20, in the evening at 17:00.
You can take Alsa buses (office site in English) to Madrid and Barcelona, Pesa runs throughout the region. The bus from Bilbao to San Sebastian leaves every 30 minutes, takes 1 hour 20 minutes and costs from 12.60 EUR one way. You can buy tickets (online) only between the cities of Bilbao, San Sebastian and Vitoria-Gasteiz; to other cities - only at the ticket office at the station.
Basque Country Hotels
Most hotels in the Basque Country are located in the major cities: Bilbao, San Sebastian and Vitoria-Gasteiz. Prices for “three rubles” in Bilbao and Vitoria-Gasteiz start from 50 EUR per night for a double room, “four” will cost from 85 EUR. Staying in San Sebastian is approximately twice as expensive: three rubles - from 100 EUR, a bed in a hostel - from 30 EUR, regardless of the season.
The buildings in the cities are mostly old, so be prepared for the lack of elevators and heating.
Beaches
The beaches please mainly surfers and less often beach lovers. The best of them are located in the province of Guipuzcoa, in the vicinity of San Sebastian: there are excellent waves all year round and warm water thanks to the Gulf Stream. One of the most beautiful and popular beaches among tourists is La Concha in San Sebastian, it is quite shallow, the coast is sandy, there is all the infrastructure - from renting sunbeds and umbrellas to excellent restaurants, children's slides and trampolines.
Most big beach province - Zarouts (2.5 km in length). It is divided into three zones, the central one is “given” to surfers, the western one is for families with children, and the eastern one has beautiful promenades.
In Bilbao, all beaches are located outside the city, but many can be reached by metro. The most popular and closest to the city is the sandy Las Arenas, surfers hang out there, but when there are no waves, you can swim (Areeta metro station, then walk). 3 km from the Plencia station there is a nudist beach called Barrika, located in the village of the same name.
All beaches are free, you only have to pay for renting an umbrella and sunbed: 5-20 EUR depending on the amenities.
Shopping
The most popular souvenirs from the Basque Country are the black chapella beret, still worn by some local men, and the rich, smoked sheep's milk cheese Idiazabal. All this is sold in souvenir shops and in the markets.
In large cities there are shopping centers where you can buy clothes and shoes from Spanish brands. The Fashion Barakaldo outlet in Bilbao offers discounts from 30 to 70% all year round, and can be reached by metro to Bagatza station and then on foot.
For everyday groceries, it is cheaper to go to the Eroski and Carrefour chain supermarkets, and for delicacies - to the markets.
Bilbao is home to the largest covered market in Europe, the Ribera, which has been on this site since the 14th century. Here they sell Spanish products at non-tourist prices. Plaza Nueva in Bilbao opens on Sundays swap meet, and in the city of Balmaceda, every year in March there is a reconstruction of a real medieval market with costumed performances and a fair.
In the Basque Country
Cuisine and restaurants of the Basque Country
In the Basque Country, tapas bars and traditional restaurants - cidrerias - are popular, serving 2-3 types of cider (at least dry and sweet) and various snacks. For haute cuisine, it’s worth going to San Sebastian: 15 Michelin stars for 8 restaurants. Among them, it is worth noting the restaurant of innovative Basque cuisine Arzak (Avda. Alcalde Elosegui, 273).
Popular a traditional dish- “marmitaco” (tuna stew with potatoes), also everywhere they serve dried cod and “chuleton de vaca” - beef steak on the bone. For desserts, try the Basque tart with custard and cherries, and the best local wine is the slightly sparkling fruit txakoli.
The city of Astigarraga produces excellent apple cider, the season lasts from January to April.
A glass of beer and 5-6 pintxos in a tapas bar will cost 15-20 EUR, dinner in a restaurant - from 60 EUR for two without drinks, from 12:00 to 16:00 many of them serve a “menu-daily” for 13-20 EUR per person. The average bill for two in a restaurant with a Michelin star is 200-250 EUR without drinks.
Guides in the Basque Country
Entertainment and attractions
The Basque Country is famous national parks. Near Bilbao is the most famous biosphere reserve in the region - Urdaibai (Biscay): forests, hills, the Atlantic coast, as well as small towns with historical monuments. The park has hiking and cycling routes, Game of Thrones was filmed here, and you can meet a herd of Basque ponies.
Urquiola Park (Lugar Barrio Urkiola, 9F) is located on the slopes of the Durangesado mountain range, and not far from the town of Dela in the province of Guipuzcoa lies the Ruta del Flysch hiking route - one of the most picturesque in Spain.
Gipuzkoa is considered the center of Basque culture; in almost any city you can take dance lessons from local residents and watch song rituals.
San Sebastian
Not only are there surfing beaches, but also the largest church in the Basque region - Cathedral Good Shepherd (Urdaneta Kalea, 12) and Miramar Palace (48 Paseo Miraconcha, 20007) - the former summer residence of the royal family, where furniture and decor from the 19th century have been preserved. Today, these luxurious interiors house the headquarters of the musicology center and host summer courses at the local university.
Victoria-Gasteiz
People go to the capital of the Basque Country to look at the architecture. In the center of the city stands the 14th century Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria (Santa Maria Plaza, s/n), which houses paintings by Rubens. The Church of San Pedro the Apostle (Fundadora de las Siervas de Jesus Kalea, 2) is the burial place of local famous figures, and 9 km from Vitoria-Gasteiz is the 11th-century Romanesque temple of Nuestra Señora de Estibaliz. There are also many museums and galleries in the city, the Artium Museum of Contemporary Art (Francia Kalea, 24) is especially interesting.
Bilbao
One of the symbols of Bilbao is the Guggenheim Museum. Its building simultaneously looks like a giant flower and a spaceship, and a glass bridge over the Nervion River leads to the entrance. The Way of St. James passes through Bilbao, so there are many cathedrals in the city: the 14th century Gothic Cathedral of St. James, the Church of San Nicolas de Bari, etc.
Weather
There are several climate zones in the Basque region; the mountains are traditionally a little cooler, while those near the ocean are windier. In general, summers here are not very hot, and winters are quite mild; surfers come here all year round. This is the rainiest region in Spain, with the least rainfall occurring in May and June.
Introduction and La Rioja
Every Spaniard, no matter how lazy he is, sooner or later reaches the Basque Country. Any voyage for a foreigner thoroughly exploring Spain should also include the Basque Country. Previously, it seemed to me that this was the situation because of its special history, the authenticity of the language and customs, and its dissimilarity from other regions. Now it has become absolutely clear that the reason is one and the most important - the Basque Country is insanely, simply heartbreakingly beautiful. Whatever the weather, whatever the season, this is a sparkling gem to be picked up, or at least remembered. Therefore, when we first had the opportunity to escape from Barcelona for a couple of days, the first thing we did was go to the Basque Country.
Legally and administratively, it is an autonomous community, or more simply put, one of the 17 autonomous regions of Spain. But only it was honored to be called just that, the Basque Country, the rest is bigger and simpler - Catalunya, Cantabria, Asturias, etc. Let’s skip the whole history and features of Basque nationalism; in the end, we went there for the beauty (and, as it turned out, also for the food). When you look at the map of the country, it seems close. in the northeast, Basque Country in the north. But it turned out to be not close at all. By car it takes the same 7-8 hours as to Madrid. By train or bus it’s about the same. And indeed, even more east than northeast, plus the mountains (the Pyrenees and their continuation to the east) separating Basque Country (another variant of the name) from the “mainland”, main Spain.
A few notes along the way as we drove up...
suddenly the Western Hemisphere! I had already forgotten that Greenwich is not only England, but maybe completely Western
somewhere in the vastness of Aragon. Everything is as it should be... Bychara, the fortress, the church.
If the Cantabrian Mountains suddenly begin to grow in the Aragonese fields, you know that you are in La Rioja!)
The town of Fuenmayor. We thought for a long time what kind of trees they were. came to the conclusion that in La Rioja these could only be overgrown vineyards. maybe we were wrong..
The path to the Basque Country may be long, but it lies through La Rioja, the wine-growing heart of Spain. It is separated into a separate province adjacent to Basque Country. And physically the vineyard fields are spread out so that the border running along the river imperceptibly divided them, leaving a good piece territorially right in the Basque Country. It seems like in Rioja, but our first stop was already in Basque Country. This is cute Bodega Isios . Bodega means winery. Nice means simply non-standard in appearance... Its roof repeats the silhouettes of the Sierra de Cantabria mountains, blocking the horizon from the North, from the wet and humid oceanic weather, which so interferes with winemaking. The construction was completed by the end of the 20th century, and the author of the project was a certain Santiago Calatrava (he also built the airport). Frank Gehry seems to have left not only a legacy here in Spain, but also an influence. More on that later, but for now let’s enjoy the views...
The Cantabrian Mountains themselves, by the way, are tightly covered with fog...
The noticeable “pixelation” of the photographs is nothing more than the design features of the roof.
Not a soul around, classic off season. We weren’t really keen on the excursion, but it seems that if we suddenly book it (the website says twice a day), then some grandfather will have to trudge from the nearest village, rattle the keys, open the doors and lead the excursion.. For now, we have enough knowledge that the name of the bodega Isios is a reference to the myth of Isis and Osiris (two gods who taught the ancient Egyptians winemaking). Of course, we also indulged in some half-harvested grapes. It tastes like sweet raisins.
Three hundred meters away, a local farmer was found caring for the trees. We inquired about the bodegas operating in the area, and received a finger pointed at the nearest cluster of houses occupying the hill. Dialogue:
- In this village?!
- This is not a village! This is the Capital!
It seems he was slightly offended, and the village turned out to be a city founded in 1164 with a proud name Laguardia . Later I read that there were a lot of interesting objects in it, but we rushed “into the depths”, in the literal sense. The entire hill on which it stands is cut by labyrinths of wine-growing caves. They are under every house here!
Laguardia dungeon map
streets of Laguardia 
To get good wine you need time and consistency of four factors:
SILENCE, TEMPERATURE, DARKNESS and HUMIDITY
It’s even a pity that humidity doesn’t start with the letter T...
All factors are presented at their best in the artificial caves of Laguardia
It’s worth adding that in addition to wine, mold matures well in these conditions!
captured our basement specifically so that we could buy it in stores later
except Spain, exports only to the USA and UK
This seems to be a local football championship...
Very close by in the village of Escuernaga is located Hotel "Viura" . Local residents invited specialists from the architectural agency Designhouses and built a futuristic building in the middle of the village, right next to the Catholic Church. The principle is simple: “We have it, so we can too.” The expensive investment turned out to be extremely successful. The tourist flow has grown to an unknown village, increased tenfold, and white wine from the local Viura vineyards has also become better sold.
When I first heard about this hotel, I decided that it was definitely worth a stop, however, not believing that someday visiting this village would become a reality. A day before the trip, I read in guidebooks about room rates starting from 750 euros, and somehow I was suddenly surprised. I went to the hotel website and found that the next day when there are free rooms is March 3rd. That is, everything was booked for 750 euros more than a month in advance!!!
The reality turned out to be simpler. It’s still the off season, and all the doors are tightly locked. The darkness also did not allow us to enjoy the centuries-old contrast of Gothic and Art Nouveau. It went something like this:
The Internet, probably not without reason, spoils us with pictures like this:
The truth, apparently, is somewhere in the middle...
Vitoria and Bilbao
Well, since the hotel is closed, we went to the town to spend the night Vitoria.I didn’t know such a city at all before. The discovery was that it turns out to be not just the second largest in the Basque Country, but also its capital! Many Basque cities have names in Spanish and Basque, often completely different, and therefore, so as not to offend anyone, they are signed with a double name on the signs. Moreover, the principle of which is first and which is second, it seemed to me, was taken from the bullshit, from Paul the octopus, or, more likely, from the alphabet.
To Vitoria-Gasteiz We have already let go of all the architectural beauty and just went to the bars. Luckily it's Friday evening. It seemed that the whole city was on the street and some kind of festival was going on. True, there is exactly one such street in the city...
The most important observation: Basques gather in groups of 2-3-4-5-6 people in their cafes, bars, pintxos and tapas, and just communicate and have fun. None of these hundreds of people had smartphones with Facebook, WhatsApp, Instagram, etc. in their hands! We, of course, had them, and we wrote to the rest of the world how cool it was here.
However, there are not many photographs left...
that's just a city clock
and an example of furious Basque on a street poster. I thought that the local team lost 0:4 and this was a call from local fans to play better... however, the Google translator rather refers to a meeting and meeting of the local nationalist cell.
And we’re moving right in the morning Bilbao . In Basque, Bilbo and Tolkien have nothing to do with it. Most Big City the Basque country, with an excellent football club and a complete absence of homeless people and simply suspicious individuals, which are full of in Barcelona. Leaves the impression of the richest and cleanest city in Spain. And at the same time the most expensive. No Pakistani-Chinese shops or eateries. I walked several blocks, but could not find not only an Atlético jersey, but even shops with stupid magnets and mugs for one euro. Later, in San Sebastian, there was more time, and shops were found, but the T-shirts everywhere are not Chinese, but licensed!!! From 85 euros. In general, we now live without a Basque T-shirt, but purely in Barcelona style, with 15-euro Messi and Neymar.
You could probably hang out for weeks in this beautiful city, inspired by the fresh ocean breeze, so we decided immediately and clearly in advance. We study exactly two objects and move on.
1. Solomon Guggenheim Museum.
Everything here is simple and clear. An icon of the city, which is now no more than 20 years old. So well known (and even more so in sight) that many do not understand that Guggenheim is a philanthropist who founded a foundation dedicated to supporting contemporary art. The Foundation is already 80 years old, modernity has changed, but new contemporary art must also be supported! In addition, the headquarters of the foundation in the form of a huge, albeit slightly less, but still impressive, museum is located in New York. There are four Guggenheim museums in the world, and four more are under construction.
The building is a living embodiment of the ideas of the brilliant architect Frank Gehry and his deconstructivism. On previous travels I got acquainted with his “Dancing House” in Prague. But it turns out that right on the shore of our almost native Barcelona, a huge golden fish, well known to all Catalans, proudly wriggles its body in the Olympic Village.
It is not at all necessary to go inside the Guggenheim Museum, and it seems that no one really does this. The art is modern, so you won’t see paintings by Velazquez and Goya there, as well as the more modern Dali and Picasso. The museum exhibits exhibitions. I didn’t even find out what exhibition it was on this January day. The sunny weather just screamed for the need to walk AROUND the museum, and not INSIDE it.
This is how deconstructivism bursts into the streets of a respectable European city
same street in the other direction
until 1997, it was this puppy, collected from flowering begonias, that was the main attraction of Bilbao
Behind the puppy, and above all of Bilbao, rises a skyscraper with the proud inscription Iberdrola, which translated into Moscow means “Mosenergosbyt”. How can one not remember Barcelona, with its Agbar tower, which is essentially the office of an analogue of Mosvodokanal.
“If you have a puppy, you need a kennel,” the residents of Bilbao joked at the end of the last century. Frank Gehry designed the kennel.
“By the way, the Magritte exhibition is on now! Well, what nonsense,” we thought and continued our walk around the museum.
(in the comments on fb they explained to me that it is not Magritte, but the collection of the Hermann and Margrit Rapf family, in which there are a lot of Picasso...)
On the other hand, it’s a completely ordinary city. The Nevryon River and rowers on it.
Let's turn around and return to contemporary art.
76 large metal balls from Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor
you can see that there are huge metal multi-colored tulips lying near the museum wall,
Normally, they can only be seen as a visitor, wandering around the building.
here they are (not my photo)
The authorship of the tulips and the puppy belongs to the contemporary artist Jeff Koons
In general, I couldn’t shake the feeling that Banksy, the only contemporary artist whose last name was familiar to me before my trip to Bilbao, was clearly missing here.
The building is covered with titanium plates. They say it just glows at sunset. But noon is also good...
and here is the largest arthropod in Spain - a metal spider from the American sculptor and at the same time Frenchwoman Louise Bourgeois
With all the surrounding miracles, it seems that the most mysterious sculpture was not noticed by us (or misunderstood? or came at the wrong time?). Which is no wonder, because the sculpture simply disappeared into thin air! There is such a contemporary artist - Fujiko Nakaya. She creates her sculptures from the fog. The fog here rises from a small lake under the walls of the museum, bubbles, creates figures and, as is typical for fog, disappears.
a piece of everyday life sandwiched between constructivism and deconstructivism
Constructivism is represented here as a bridge spanning the river right next to the museum.
It was not possible to find out the name of the author of the design, but this did not make the bridge any less constructive. It has already been repeatedly seen above in photographs, with a huge red gate at the entrance.
under this wonderful bridge, instead of terrible trolls, there is beautiful graffiti lurking
It should be noted that there are two other absolutely fantastic bridges in Bilbao
The first is the pedestrian Zubizuri. We didn’t go to it, fortunately it can be easily seen from afar, just from the Guggenheim Bridge. Although it might be worth it...
this is Zubizuri, with another hair-raising Basque name...
and the second bridge is Biscay, but more about that a little later, but for now we’ll continue walking around the Guggenheim Museum
As a child, Fank Gehry was fond of either fishing or aquarium fish, so many of his creations embody the idea of “fish movement in water”
however, from some points of view it is still complete chaos. Complemented by the Iberdrola skyscraper
lake for fog
2. Biscay Bridge
This is our second stop in Bilbao. And just a wonderful bridge. Strictly speaking, this is no longer Bilbao, but its two northern suburbs (Portugalete and Getxo) on different banks of the river. The most amazing thing about this fairly popular place (only here in the Basque country did I meet African Africans selling souvenirs) is that the bridge can be used for its intended purpose. That is, the landmark has not sunk into history, but continues to remain a functioning object. With a fairly low throughput (6 cars one way per trip), there are no significant traffic jams along the banks. Well, you'll have to stand for 15 minutes, hardly more. However, it’s difficult to say whether there is a rush hour here. We crossed the river by car on Saturday afternoon.
You're rolling along the narrow streets of Portulagete, and suddenly he appears in the sky...
My first associations are with San Francisco, although they are certainly not true. The Eiffel Tower should have popped into my head, because the author of the design was Alberto di Palacio, one of the master’s students.
Directly under the supports - yes, already bigger than Paris.
People, cars, cyclists, everyone moves on a platform that rolls from the river to the shore. The trip is about a minute and a half. The longest part is loading and unloading. The idea of origin is the same as that of the Tower Bridge and the bridges of St. Petersburg. Along the river from the Bay of Biscay, large-caliber ocean-going vessels were supposed to go as deep as possible into Bilbao, to its shipyards. But it is also necessary to somehow connect the residents of the two banks with regular communication.
Filmed directly from the inside) without leaving the car (they’re forbidden to get out, but it’s so tight there that the door won’t even open)
the history of Basque bridge construction, and at the same time all types of tickets of all types moving...
We couldn’t help but note the monument to the Wheels
From the other side of the suburbs of Bilbao, the smell was no longer of San Francisco, but of some kind of Scandinavia. Stockholm.
and indeed... Northern Spain is very similar to Northern Europe.
neat, safe, sleek, not at all hot
Gaztelugatxe
After leaving Bilbao, do not despair. After all, the Basque Country is just beginning, and still has a lot of discoveries and surprises in store for the traveler. The Basques are a stern, proud people. The coastline matches them. Gloomy steep cliffs, dissecting the rushing ocean into fountains, sometimes part, letting waves into hospitable comfortable beaches-lagoons. The resorts where you can film “Santa Barbara” are adjacent to the ideal sets of some horror movie filled with haunted castles.
So is Gastelugache . Translated from Basque as “Castle on the Rock” or “Rock Castle”. It’s not immediately clear what we’re talking about, because perched on the top of the island is an ordinary church, founded in the 10th century by the Templars, and not a castle at all. But the point is different: the whole island is a castle. And it was not built by the Templars, but by someone more helpful. Huge stone columns and waves rumbling under the arches are proof of this.
People also added stories later, one famous land battle of the 14th century, one major sea battle of the 18th century, and even the pirate robbery of this not-so-rich church by Francis Drake himself.
Now everything is in the past, the island is connected by an artificial passage to the land, and Gaztelugatxe falls into the strange Top of “The Most Famous Staircases in the World,” along with the Hawaiian Staircase to Heaven and the Spanish Steps in Rome.
The entire Basque coast is something like this: windy, sunny, wooded and rocky. It took quite a lot of effort to convince the satellites not to stick to every available Mirador (observation platform), but to specifically locate themselves in Gaztelugatx
Just in case, after getting out into the street, we get acquainted with these seemingly harmless woolen coconoas. We familiarize ourselves visually and very carefully. They are everywhere here, precisely in the coniferous forests, and probably pose the greatest danger to a traveler through the mountains and valleys. (Not counting, of course, the angry forester who smelled your xter). In these cocoons some terrible Processionaria caterpillars overwinter, capable of leaving burns akin to the burns of the well-known Russian hogweed or Uzbek carrot.
A must-read for anyone going on a Spanish trekking trip.
Gaztelugatxe itself is not visible directly from the road. The island hid. When you start to go down somewhere from the top, this island first appears:
and only then Gastelugache
and then, it is visible only because for the sake of a beautiful view from Mirador, it seems that pine trees along the entire slope had to be cut down along with the passionary caterpillars on them...
It's the end of January, but spring is already in the air...
These are just flowers.. Or just flowers
On the way here in the mountains, we ran straight into a wild mimosa garden and barely made it out. Another half hour and our group would have started to resemble Ellie and her friends in the poppy field
But it's time to return to Gaztelugatxe.
It is not very clear which species is the most impressive. Therefore, we have to offer everything for viewing. Thank God, in Spain I don’t have the most outstanding camera, and I myself am far from a professional photographer. Otherwise, we’ll be stuck in this Gastelugach until dark.
cloudiness, constantly changing lighting, adds additional charm. as if hinting that every moment is unique and unique
This is an artificial passage connecting Gaztelugatxe with the mainland. Looks scarier in the photos than in reality. Although, if the waves were the same as on the day this post was written (an eyewitness says that today in Galicia there are almost 15 meters...)
the smallest of the arches, periodically completely under water
The climb, although it looks impressive, is not very long. Took something like 3 minutes. But it is divided into 13 sectors, signed with Roman numerals and delimited by metal crosses. The last one is right next to the church.
a beautiful sticker on one of the technical modern hatches is already on top
Some prisoner could probably be imprisoned here.
However, it is quite cozy inside. Something like a canopy to hide from the rain and wind, tables, chairs, fireplace (you can bring firewood). There is no staff.
Church services are held extremely rarely. All closed. But there is a bell that can ring for anyone who wants to ring it. A huge stone cross gracefully combines with a thunderclap, you feel like you have Christ in your bosom.
They called and it was time to go home. To the sinful land of the Iberian Peninsula.
Near the parking lot, already at the top, is a mysterious open-air agricultural museum. Tightly closed.
Therefore, our only trekking in the Basque Country, two half-hour walks under the ocean winds, is over. It's time to celebrate it successfully. Actually, I was going to do three trekking trips, but something went wrong)) Possible reason: switching attention to another, probably the most important, Basque attraction - food.
For me, Basque food has always been tapas, pintxos and cider. There is also cod and all kinds of meat, but there is no strength (stomach size) left for this. Therefore tapas, pintxos and cider. The cider is not at all what I am used to drinking (sweet with bubbles), but real. Sour, fermented, aromatic apple juice. While the rest of the country cultivates vineyards and infuses wine, its cold, rainy northern provinces (the Basques, along with Cantabria and Asturias) grow apples and bottle the world's best cider. Although I suppose residents of some regions of northern France think differently. Cider in the Basque country is sealed with a regular cork, but another plastic bottle is served at the table along with the opened bottle. This embodiment of the design idea not only allows you to painlessly cork an already open, unfinished bottle, but also, if positioned correctly, also pour the cider as expected, in a high stream, which is saturated with oxygen as it flies from the neck to the glass. We collected these traffic jams as a souvenir!
And let's move on.