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Excursion trip to isan thailand. Provinces of Thailand - centers and administrative divisions

Isan- the northeastern region of Thailand, located on the arid lands of the Khorat sandy plateau, and bordering the Mekong River with Laos, is considered the poorest region of the country. Traditional communities of Thai peasants live here, making up about 1/3 of the country's population.

They cultivate rice, cassava and cotton, and grow mulberries whose leaves serve as food for silkworms.

In Isan, they do not speak Thai, but Lao (16 million Laotians live in Isan, although Laos itself has a population of only 6 million people) and, in some provinces, Khmer. Isan is the main producer of Thai rice. This is an agricultural land and the poorest region in the country. It is from here that more than 90% of prostitutes in Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket come from. At the same time, Isan is famous for its sights. Thais believe that here is the spiciest cuisine and the most beautiful nature.

The city of Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima) is the unspoken capital of the northeastern part of Thailand - Isan. There are several notable places in and around Korat:

  • The Phi Mai temple complex is, by the way, one of the centers of the ancient Khmer state and one of the largest partially preserved and reconstructed architectural ensembles of this kind in Thailand. This is the second largest Khmer temple after Angkor Wat. But Phi Mai was built earlier and it was here that inscriptions were discovered that made it possible to decipher the ancient Khmer alphabet.

  • Khao Yai National Park. Great place for jungle exploration and ecotourism.

  • One of the best zoos in Asia is the Korat Zoo with a Jurassic Park and a water park for children.

  • The historical center of Korat: a monument to Yamo, the savior of the city, to whom all the locals come to pray. Young people gather near Yamo in the evenings, demonstrating various tricks on bicycles. There are also playgrounds and evening cafes with all kinds of Thai dishes and special Korat cuisine. This is the real heart of the city, uniting its inhabitants.

  • Wat Po is an important place for Buddhists, one of the most revered temples. There are many temples in Korat, beautiful and well-groomed.
  • A special treat can be a visit to the Chinese temple in the city center, where costumed musical performances are regularly held. You can enjoy the music from this temple without even leaving your hotel. A couple of these hotels overlooking the temple are located on Suranari Street.

The Thai cuisine of Northeast Thailand is heavily influenced by Lao and Cambodian gastronomic traditions. One of the most popular dishes in the region somtam“, a green papaya salad that combines the four main tastes of Thai cuisine - sour lime, hot chili pepper, salty fish sauce, sweetness of palm sugar. Today, somtam is a favorite dish for many not only in Isan, but throughout Thailand, and is becoming more and more famous in the world due to its unique taste and ease of preparation.

Northeastern Thai cuisine in general terms represents relatively simple peasant dishes (in the Thai concept). The classic dish of Isan is considered "lab"- minced spicy meat, it is served with salad and raw vegetables. Some of the region's other dishes that will surprise you rather than make you want to try are fried red ant larvae, fried or stewed rice rat, curry gecko. Sticky rice accompanies any meal, the northeastern version is a little different from glutinous rice in Bangkok or in the South, it is served in small bamboo baskets.

Very popular in the region "pla raa“, literally rotten fish - in addition to several traditional technologies for preserving fish - smoking, drying. The product is often added to salads, including somtam. Pla raa is used as an ingredient in fish sauce. A rather dubious condiment with an unforgettable aroma from which it is impossible to “hide” is a key ingredient in Isan cuisine. Although the methods may vary slightly from area to area. Freshly caught river fish (small and medium sized) are descaled (sometimes the heads and entrails are removed). A few days later, the fish is again cut into fillets and packed in airtight containers, overlaid with rock salt and sprinkled with rice bran. Ripening time lasts several months.



In the photo, the road of the Rulers is a ceremonial alley and stairs leading to the ancient Hindu temple of Phanom Rung. The alley is guarded by statues of nagas - snake-like creatures, man-serpents, whose cult goes back to ancient times, when Hinduism itself did not exist.

Geography

The natural border of the region in the west is the mountain ranges that separate Isan from the Central Plain of Thailand - Sankamben and Phetchabun. The latter consists of two parallel mountain ranges separated by the Pasak river valley. The valley is known as the home of the Siamese tulip. This mountainous region was the site of hostilities: Communist partisan detachments set up bases here and from here attacked government troops.

Isan is separated from Cambodia by the Dangrek Range. The slope of the mountains from the side of Thailand is rather gentle, and from the side of Cambodia it rises as an almost vertical wall, which in the past served as an obstacle to the advance of the invaders. The most high mountain here it reaches a height of 753 m.

Story

The history of the Isan provinces is closely connected with the ancient Khmer state. This is reminiscent of the Phimai temple complex in the city of the same name in the province of Nakhon Ratchasima, where one of the most important Khmer temples of the country, dating back to the 10th-12th centuries, is located. In terms of its historical significance for Isan, it is comparable to the world-famous Angkor Wat temple complex and stood at the end of the ancient road that went from Angkor. The temple was originally built in Buddhist traditions, but when the Khmers converted to Hinduism, it was rebuilt as a place of worship for Shiva at the end of the 12th century. it was again converted into a temple of the Mahayana school of Buddhism: in the Khmer Empire, Brahmanism and Buddhism coexisted quite peacefully.

Another temple complex, which is part of the Phanom Rung Historical Park, is interestingly located: it stands on the edge of an extinct volcano, at an altitude of over 400 m in the province of Buriram, built from local materials - limestone and laterite. The temple is dedicated to the god Shiva and symbolizes Mount Kailash - his abode.

The only major road between the two countries in these places passes through the Osmakh Pass, which from ancient times served as a trade route between the plains of Cambodia and the Khorat plateau. During the Cambodian Civil War 1967-1975. and until the fall of the remnants of the Khmer Rouge regime in 1999, the pass was controlled by Cambodians who smuggled valuable timber. Now the pass is open for trade, but from time to time border conflicts break out in these places. The largest ones were in 2008 and 2011. - because of the rights to Preah Vihear (Khauphravihan): the temple complex of the Khmer Empire.

The Khorat Plateau, with an average height of about 200 m, occupies a significant part of Isan. The territory of the plateau is crossed by the tributaries of the Mekong - Mun and Chi, and itself is the border between Thailand and Laos. Many important archaeological finds have been made here, including bronze artifacts of the Dong Son culture. The Bronze Age Bronchiang Archaeological Site, listed as a World Heritage Site, is of world historical significance. Of no less interest is the discovery of the Iron Age site of Nonnoktha.

In the IV-XI centuries. these lands were occupied by the Buddhist state of the Mons of Dvaravati, and then by the Khmer Empire. Remains of monastic cloisters and Khmer roads that crossed the Khorat plateau in all directions remind of those times.

Unlike the Khorat plateau (less fertile and humid), the Mekong valley is an ideal place for agriculture. The reddish waters of the river, forming a natural border between Thailand and Laos with a length of 750 km, carry silt - the basis of the region's agriculture. The valley, which lies at a great distance from Bangkok, is the least industrialized region of the country; many villages and towns living in a traditional way have been preserved here. The architecture of the local Buddhist wats (temples) and monasteries is rather Lao, influenced by the neighboring country for centuries. There are also many emigrants here - from Laos and Vietnam, including Christians who have a Catholic cathedral in the city of Sichiengmai. The richest in cultural attractions and picturesque views are the cities of Chiengham (two parallel streets running along the Mekong literally studded with temples and monasteries), Pakchom and Sanghom (picturesque fishing towns from dilapidated quaint wooden traditional buildings lying among the jungle with waterfalls), Sichiengmai (the center of rice production paper) and the large and temple-rich Nong Khai, where the first bridge was built across the Mekong, connecting Thailand and Laos. Downstream is the most revered shrine of Isan - Wat Phrathat Phanom, according to legend, built 8 years after the death of the Buddha to bury his collarbone. Even lower on the Mekong is the eponymous capital of the province of Mukdahan with a huge market stretching along the banks of the Mekong, where merchants arrive from the other side - from Laos. After a couple of hundred kilometers, the Mekong makes a sharp turn to the east and goes deep into Laos, but at the end of its “Thai” segment, Phatem is remarkable - a “painted rock” - a “painting panel” 170 m long, created by ancient artists 4 thousand years ago. At the turn, the dark blue Mun tributary flows into the muddy Mekong. On the banks of the "two-colored river" stands Wat Khong Tiem.

Nature

The Isan region is a land of mostly tropical rainforests. Twenty national parks have been created to protect the nature of the Isan region, some of which are included in the UNESCO World Natural Heritage List. Including a forest complex on the territory of Khao Yai National Park. It was opened in 1962 and is the first national park in the country. It will grow about 3 thousand species of plants, 320 species of birds and 67 mammals, including the Himalayan bear, Indian elephant, gaur, tiger, gibbon, Indian sambar, muntzhak deer.

Like all other natural reserves of the country, without exception, the national parks of the Isan region are threatened by the rapidly expanding development of tourist infrastructure. Accordingly, the opportunities for migration of wild animals are reduced and their numbers are reduced. And the laying of new and new roads is rapidly reducing the area of ​​tropical forests.

Almost the entire territory of the Isan region is occupied by the Khorat plateau, and the mountain ranges form a natural - in some places almost insurmountable - border with neighboring states.

The local climatic conditions make it possible to grow many crops and, most importantly, rice, plantings of which occupy large areas in the river valleys, where terraced agriculture is developed. While much of the rest of the land is marginal, soils are largely saline, heavy rains can charge for hours and cause catastrophic floods. Large aqua farms are equipped in the rivers, where fish are grown.

Population

Agriculture remains the backbone of the Isan region's economy, employing three-quarters of the population.

Industry here is noticeably less developed than in the rest of the country. Historically, by almost all indicators, Isan is the poorest of the six regions in Thailand. The income level here is half the average for the country, below the poverty line - and in fact in poverty - is a significant part of the population. And although the region is home to about a third of the country's population, its GRP is only about 10% of the country's GDP. And during the dry season, millions of Isan residents go to Bangkok and other major cities in search of temporary work. There they are hired as taxi drivers, porters, in small factories where skilled labor is not required, scavengers.

The people of Isan are the least educated part of Thailand's population. At local population there is its own language - Isan, which, together with Thai and Lao, is part of the same language group of the southern Thai languages ​​and combines the features of both to such an extent that some linguists consider it a dialect of Lao, and some (and authorities) - a dialect of Thai. It is spoken by 90% of the inhabitants of the region in all twenty provinces. At the same time, Isan does not even have an official status. The Isan language does not have its own script, and, for example, karaoke clubs use the Thai alphabet to transmit Isan lyrics.

Among the most famous cultural traditions of the Isan provinces is morlam music: unique in that the melody played changes according to the pitch of the word and, consequently, its meaning. The same word in the Isan language, pronounced in five different keys, can have five diametrically opposite meanings.

The second thing Thailand owes to Isan is the martial art of Muaythai, or Thai boxing, in which it is allowed to strike with all limbs. This type of martial arts has glorified the country far beyond its borders so much that it even celebrates Muaythai National Boxing Day.

Another ancient Isan tradition that has spread throughout the country is cockfighting, as well as the ability to organize festive processions. Holidays are loved in Isan, and a 100,000-strong procession in a relatively small city is not at all uncommon.


general information

Region in the northeast of Thailand

Location : the central part of the Indochina peninsula.

Administrative division Provinces: Amnatcharen, Buriram, Byngkan, Kalasin, Khon Kaen, Lei, Mahasarakham, Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Bualamphu, Nong Khai, Royet, Sakon Nakhon, Sisaket, Surin, Ubon Ratchathani, Udon Thani, Chaiyaphum, Yasothon.

Educated: 1977

Cities: Udon Thani - 153,329 people, Nakhon Ratchasima - 138,303 people, Ubon Ratchathani - 79,023 people, Mahasarakham - 53,704 people, Sakon Nakhon - 53,618 people, Nong Khai - 48,274 people, Kalasin - 47,000 people, Sisaket - 42,193 people, Surin - 40,096 people. (2016).

Languages: Isan, Thai, Lao, Khmer.

Ethnic composition : Thais (Siamese, Khontai), Khmers.

Religions: Buddhism, Islam, Christianity (Catholicism).

Currency unit : bat.

Rivers: Mekong, Mun, Chi, Songkhram, Pasak.

The airport: Udon Thani (international).

Neighboring countries and regions : in the north and east - Laos, in the south - Cambodia and Eastern Thailand, in the west - Central Thailand.

Numbers

Square: 168,854.75 km2.

Population: 21 886 527 people (2013).

Population density : 129.6 people / km 2.

Provinces (area, km 2 / population, people / population density, people / km 2) : Amnatcharen (3,161.2 / 375,380 / 118.7), Buriram (10,322.9 / 1,579,248 / 153), Byngkan (4,305 / 420,647 / 97.7), Kalasin (6,946.7 / 985 232 / 141.8), Khon Kaen (10 886 / 1 790 049 / 164.4), Lei (11 424.6 / 634 513 / 55.5), Mahasarakham (5 291.7 / 960 588 / 181.5 ), Mukdahan (4,339.8 / 346,016 / 79.7), Nakhon Phanom (5,512.7 / 715,399 / 129.7), Nakhon Ratchasima (20,494 / 2,631,435 / 128.4), Nongbualamphu (3,859 / 508 864 / 131.8), Nong Khai (3 027 / 520 363 / 171.9), Royet (8 299.4 / 1 308 318 / 157.6), Sakon Nakhon (9 605.8 / 1 140 229 / 118 .7), Sisaket (8 840 / 1 468 798 / 166.1), Surin (8 124.1 / 1 391 636 / 171.3), Ubon Ratchathani (15 744.85 / 1 857 429 / 118), Udon Thani ( 11,730 / 1,575,152 / 134.3), Chaiyaphum (12,778.3 / 1,137,049 / 89), Yasothon (4,161.7 / 540,182 / 129.8) (2014).

highest point : 1365 m, Phurya city (Phetchabun ridge).

Climate and weather

Subequatorial monsoon, mountain.

Rain season: June-October.

January average temperature : +21.5°С.

July average temperature : +27°С.

Average annual rainfall : 1130 mm.

Average annual relative humidity : 70%.

Economy

GRP: $49.945 billion, per capita - $2282 (2013).

Industry: hydroelectric power, forestry (teak harvesting), light (textile).

Agriculture : crop production (sugar cane, cassava, pineapples, tomatoes, tobacco, rice), animal husbandry (cattle, poultry farming), sericulture.

River fishing and fish farming.

traditional crafts : umbrellas, jewelry, lacquerware, furniture, wood carving, ceramics, silk weaving.

Services sector: tourist, transport, trade.

Attractions

Natural

    Fulang Wildlife Sanctuary

    Thamkhunshri, Rhu, Thunegnamueang, Saengchang and Kaenglamduan waterfalls

    Saochaliang rocks

National parks

  • Phukradung

  • The famous Luang Prabang. However, these are all Lao adventures. And we travel around Thailand by car and explore the province of Lei (Lei), so rich in sights. The route of the trip passes through the Mekong valley. And the program of our tour includes a waterfall, views of the Mekong and embankments, rural Thai villages, fishermen and a beautiful sunset. Let's start the journey!

    The amazing Mekong River, which begins its journey on the snowy peaks of the Himalayas, flows through China. And then, separating two states - Thailand and, carries its troubled waters across Cambodia, so that, finally, the Mekong Delta collapses into the South China Sea in Vietnam. The long path of the river is amazing - it flows over the surface of the planet for 4350 km and takes 11th place in the list of the longest rivers in the world.

    Mekong map

    Isn't it worth getting to know this river better, if possible? We decided to go on a tour of the Mekong and observe its course and change.

    Isan - eastern Thailand

    The tour passes through two provinces - Nong Khai and Loei, which are located in a special region of Thailand. Eastern Thailand is called Isan, or Isaan. Why is he special? This area has historically been closer to Laos, and was once part of Laos. And in more ancient times, it was part of the great state of Lansang with the capital Luang Prabang, and once a valuable statue was kept there, which now lives in the Royal Palace of Bangkok.

    In Isan, everything is different - people are closer ethnically to the Laotians, they speak in dialects of Lao. Travelers to Isan should ideally know both Thai and Lao, as the locals themselves very rarely speak English. By the way, in South Isan, closer to the border with, people already speak dialects of the Khmer language. Thus, Isan is the most non-Thai region of the country. And if they say about Northern Thailand that it is there that Thailand is real, then here it is not only not real, it is not Thailand at all.

    Isan cuisine is also famous, it differs from the usual Thai. Folk costumes are more like Laos. For example, I bought a beautiful skirt here, exactly the same as I once wore in Laos when visiting temples.

    Read also:

    Me in a Laotian skirt in Kammouan province in Laos. the same skirts are worn in Isan

    Girls from Isan

    There is another feature of Isan, much more piquant. Most of the girls who work prostitutes in Pattaya, come precisely from the poor families of Isan. This is how their fate develops, that apart from offering their services to wealthy European and American tourists in the hope of marrying someone who, captivated by the magic of Thailand, wants to leave everything and stay, they do not.

    Here is such a different and controversial Isan, so let's get acquainted with its northern part, driving along the road along the Mekong.

    Tour route along the Mekong River

    • The tour passes through two provinces - Nong Khai and Loei
    • Tour length - 120 km on route 211
    • Buses run between cities
    • The distance between Chiang Khan and Pak Chom can be covered by river by hiring a longtail boat
    • All cities on the Mekong River and even between them have restaurants where you can dine
    • In Chiang Khan, Pak Chom, Sangkhom and Si Chiang Mai there are guesthouses where you can spend the night.

    A typical route along the Mekong as follows:

    • Chiang Khan (Chiang Khan) is a sleepy, but beloved by Thais town with an excellent walking street and a promenade, where tourists tired of the heat come to relax, enjoy the coolness and admire the Mekong and, of course, buy a ton of souvenirs and have a good meal.
    • Pa Baen (Pha Baen) - people come to this picturesque village for the chance to see wooden architecture and impressive views of the river.
    • Pak Chom (Pak Chom) - this town was marked by a large camp for refugees from Laos in the 70s and 80s, when people began to leave Laos after the overthrow of the monarchy in 1975. Now this typical village, like all others, is remarkable for its wooden houses and views of the main river of Southeast Asia.
    • Ban Mueang (Ban Muang) - here it is customary to watch fishermen cast their nets and rejoice that this fate has escaped travelers and they can buy fish either from the same fisherman, or in a supermarket, or by ordering it in a restaurant.
    • Waterfall Tang Type (Than Thip Falls) is a pretty waterfall near the city of Sangkhom, with several pools where you can stop and cool off during an exciting tour.
    • Sangkhom (Sangkhom) is a favorite village of backpackers who like to settle in bamboo huts on the banks of the river.
    • Tan Tong Waterfall (Than Thong falls) 10 km east of Sangkhom in easy accessibility from the highway.
    • Wat Hin Mak Peng Temple (Wat Hin Mak Peng) is a forest monastery popular with pilgrims right on the river bank.
    • Si Chiang Mai (Si Chiang Mai) - a feature of this city is the presence catholic cathedral where Laotian Christians and Vietnamese refugees pray. Si Chiang Mai also gained fame as the largest manufacturer of wrapping leaves for spring rolls.

    Travel route along the Mekong

    There is always a reason to celebrate in Thailand

    Mekong tour on public transport

    Traveling is much easier if you have a car, but how do you get from one city to another without one? It turns out that this path can be done by public transport. It's all about the desire, the availability of time, readiness for adventure and openness.

    • To Chiang Khan can be reached from Loei, as well as from Bangkok and from the city of Nakhon Ratchasima. Buses mostly depart early in the morning around 6 o'clock, and also in the evening after 18.00.
    • From Chiang Khan to Pak Chom songteos go. You can also get to Pak Chom from Loei, the bus leaves at 6.00.
    • The buses are coming to Sangkhom from Nong Khai(at 7.30, 11.00 and 15.00) and from Loy. Buses heading towards Loei pass Songkhai at 10.30 and 14.00. The third bus, which passes here at 18.00, does not reach Loei, but stops at Pok Chom, which can be used when moving between cities on the Mekong River. Bus from Songkhom to Nong Khai leaves at 6.30, 11.30 and 16.00. Its cost is 60 baht, you will need to spend 3 hours on the way. He stops in Si Chiang Mai.
    • To Si Chiang Mai from Nong Khai can be reached by buses that run here several times a day between cities. They leave at 7.30, 11.00 and 15.00. A distance of 40 km can be covered in an hour and 40 baht. 60 baht to Sangkhom. The same buses actually go to Loei, except for the last one, which stops at Pak Chom.

    The beginning of the route along the Mekong River on the map

    Travel around Isan along the Mekong River by car

    We also decided to drive along Isan along the great Mekong. However, we did not start our journey from Chiang Khan, but from Si Chiang Mai, as we had just visited one of the most amazing sights in Thailand, the Pu Prabat historical park, located in the province of Udon Thani. So we're going in the opposite direction. We start from Si Chiang Mai and drive along the great river and see all the interesting things that we meet along the way.

    Si Chiang Mai - views of Vientiane

    And we start from the town of Si Chiang Mai, known for the fact that its embankment offers views not only of the Mekong separating Laos and Thailand, but also of the capital of a neighboring state, Vientiane. Before, before it was built Bridge of Friendship between Vientiane and Nong Khai, the only way to get to Laos was from here, by boat from Si Chiang Mai.

    Sunny promenade in Si Chiang Mai

    And on the other side of the river is the capital of Laos Vientiane

    Retro installation on the embankment. That's what they've been living here lately

    Video from the waterfront of the city of Si Chiang Mai with views of the Lao capital Vientiane

    Sangkhom - a pleasant promenade

    People come to Sangkhom with the intention of hanging out here for a week and living the leisurely life of the locals. There are several simple guesthouses in the city (especially praised Buoy Guesthouse), including the river. Fresh fish from the Mekong and homemade Mekong whiskey are what backpackers who come here are busy with.

    This part of the country is still living in the past. There are no huge supermarkets here, the life of people is simple and unpretentious. One of the best photographers in my opinion Beboy, found his inspiration precisely in the landscapes and people of Sangkhom. After all, visiting here is like being transported many years ago in a time machine, to the idyll of rural river life.

    Antique columns on the waterfront of Sangkhom

    The Lao hills are visible in the distance

    Tang Type waterfall in dry season

    Tan Tip Waterfall is located 13 km from the city of Sangkhom. You need to turn off the main road at the sign to the left towards the mountains and drive 3 km through the villages. At the end of the road will be the entrance to the waterfall. Tan Tip is hidden in the jungle and banana groves. Two levels of the waterfall are available, to which a path leads, and then a staircase.

    The first level of the waterfall is 30 meters. However, the second one falls off a 100 meter high cliff. But the third - from 70 meters. More experienced travelers can see the third one, hidden at the top of the hill. But for this you need to be an experienced hiker and skillfully climb mountains. They say that in fact the waterfall has five levels, but no one has definitely seen this.

    In the dry season, the waterfall did not show all its beauty, but it was still very pretty.

    The second cascade of Tang Tip waterfall in Isan

    Restaurant overlooking the Mekong

    The lovely owner made us rice with vegetables in a friendly manner, although he did not speak English. His prices are very democratic: for a large portion - 40 baht. And most importantly, it was nice to sit at a wooden table, look at the slow Mekong and enjoy everything that was happening. We also tried real coming from isan.

    Lunch with a great view

    Isan lunch with a view of the Mekong

    Viewpoint Nong Pla Buek (NongPla Buek) near Ban Mueang village

    Here mekong river shows a stone bottom, which is especially impressive during the hot season, when the bottom is almost completely exposed. We saw a similar picture during our trip to, which flows between and Thailand.

    Stones at the bottom of the river

    ghostly mekong

    Photos of the Mekong turned out to be especially successful in the rays of the setting sun. We stopped in a village without a name for us, where local residents gathered under a sprawling tree and walked along the river embankment. We also could not resist and admired the main artery of Southeast Asia once again. And why not, since she is so beautiful?

    Having stopped under the magnificent spreading bank, we went to look at the beauty of the main river of Southeast Asia

    Lonely boat in the middle of the Mekong River in Isan

    Throughout the Mekong there are islands of different sizes - from small ones, as shown in this photo, to huge ones where you can live, like in Laos

    And on the other side of the small Laotian village

    ghostly mekong

    Fishermen in the river

    Stopping again, we finally saw the promised fishermen, who were doing their usual thing - throwing a net into the river or sitting quietly with a fishing rod, falling asleep in their boat.

    A fluffy island and a peaceful worker and family breadwinner at work

    Fog descends on the Mekong River

    Beautiful sunset in Chiang Khan

    Arriving in Chiang Khan just in time for sunset, we saw how many Thai tourists are resting here. We all gathered on the embankment and saw how the muddy waters of the Mekong turned to gold and how the sun melted into a haze. Boats with happy vacationers drove along the river, and we stood and watched, thinking that another beautiful day had ended.

    Sunset in Chiang Khan

    golden mekong

    Our impressions of the trip on the Mekong

    Ride along Great Mekong seemed to us a worthwhile enterprise. Plunge into the unique atmosphere of the Thai-Lao hinterland, get acquainted with Isan region in eastern Thailand, ride along the Mekong Valley, stopping at beautiful viewpoints on the river - all this left an indelible impression. We took many photos along the way. And yet the best photos are not those that were on the film (flash drive), but those that remained only in memory. There was no way to capture. They slipped only for a moment, but it is these shots that will remain the best memories of the trip.

    Despite the fact that, it would seem, we were driving and saw the same landscape - the waters of the Mekong and a strip of land in Laos on the other side, it should be noted that the embankments in each city are completely different. And this is their special charm.

    Everywhere we were surprised. Apparently not used to farangs here in Isaan. Especially on the border with Laos, where travelers do not often get. The owner of the restaurant tried very hard to please and was glad that we liked his dish.

    It was very exciting to get to know the Mekong again and see its new hypostasis, calm and beautiful.

    Is it bad to do the same way 120 km on a bike?

    The Kingdom, as Wikipedia says until 1939, was called Siam- the state of Southeast Asia, located in the southwestern part of the Indochina peninsula and in the northern part of the Malay Peninsula. Bordered to the east by Cambodia and Laos, in the west with Myanmar, and in the south with Malaysia. The name (the word “thai” (ไทย) means “freedom”) justifies itself: it is the only country in Southeast Asia that has retained its independence from European states, while all neighboring states were colonies of France or Great Britain. "" (Thailand) - a Germanized version of the name of the country, introduced into use in the 1930s, - means "country of the Thais", the Thai version sounds like "Prathet Thai". The monetary currency is the Thai baht, though baht exchange rate has changed a lot against the ruble lately. Our fellow citizens, especially those who have heard by hearsay, have a strong opinion that the country is depraved and transvestites. This is not true, yes there are a number of Go-Go bars in Bangkok on the Nana Plaza and Alley cowboy, Phuket and of course in Pattaya famous all over the world for carrots. But this is not all, far from all! There are 75 provinces in the country and they are all completely different, different climates, different tribes and nationalities, different cuisines, but I can say with confidence that they do not equally accept those things that you can see in Ptt on Walken Street.

    Central Thailand

    Central Thailand (Thai ประเทศไทยภาคกลาง) covers the territory from the western mountains on the border with Myanmar to the northeastern plateau in the east and includes 26 provinces. Central Thailand is considered to be the cultural heart of the country. It is currently the most affluent and lively region in Thailand. There are a number of interesting cultural monuments here: Ayutthaya (Ayutthaya) - the pearl of Thailand, the old capital of the kingdom; Lopburi - the city where the famous Khmer complex "Temple with three towers" (Prang Sam Yod) is located; Nakhon Pathom - the place where the ancient stupa Phra Pathom Chedi stands, the largest in the country and others, others. Between Kanchanaburi and the border with Myanmar, there are seven reserves and national parks with a total area of ​​almost 10,000 km2. There are many resorts on the shores of the Gulf of Thailand. The most famous and oldest is Hua Hin, where the residence of the king is located.

    Northern Thailand

    Northern Thailand (Thai. ภาคเหนือ) is an integral part of the legendary Golden Triangle, the cradle of Thai civilization. The nature of Northern Thailand is represented mainly by wooded mountains, which are the beginning of the Himalayas, and fertile river valleys. The average height above sea level is 1500 m, the highest point is Mount Doiintanon (2565 m). In former times, the slopes of the mountains were covered with dense forests. Northern Thailand is a teak region where elephants still work in the forest. The first civilization to have an impact on the North of Thailand was Haripunjaya, a Mon state that was founded in Lamphun in the late 8th and early 9th centuries. Maintaining strong ties with the Mon kingdoms in the south, it remained the cultural and religious center of the North for centuries. The Thais came here after the Mons, having migrated from China in the 7th-11th centuries, and founded small principalities in the northern regions. In 1238, the first truly independent Thai kingdom of Sukhothai was formed. During his time, the Thai alphabet was created and from where traditional Thai art originates. Most of the territory of Northern Thailand is once an independent state. Chief among the Thai settlers was King Mengrai, who, shortly after the founding of the state of Sukhothai, began to organize a similar unified state in the North. In 1292, Mengrai founded the city of Chiang Rai in the southwest and moved the capital there. Expanding the territory of the principality, Mengrai in 1296 founded the city of Chiang Mai (“new city”), which became the capital of the state of Lannathai (“Country of a million rice fields of Thais”). Mengrai, connected by family ties with all the rulers of neighboring Thai principalities and the only one of the Thai princes, descended in a direct line from the rulers of old Chiangsen, achieved recognition as the supreme ruler of all Thais in the region, united, reconciled among themselves or conquered the surrounding Thai principalities and was crowned as the first king of the Lannathai state. This state is sometimes called the kingdom of Chiang Mai. Dying, Mengrai established a new dynasty, which was destined to see a two-century period of incomparable flourishing of both culture and art. After the expansionist rule of Tilok (1441–1487), weak, petty kings followed in succession, while Ayutthaya continued its hostile advance northward. But the Burmese finally ended the existence of the Mengrai dynasty, who captured Chiang Mai in 1558 and, with the help of puppet rulers, controlled the territory of Lanna for the next two centuries. In 1767, the Burmese destroyed the Thai capital of Ayutthaya, but the Thais quickly gathered forces under the command of King Taksin, who, with the help of King Lamnang Kavila, gradually drove the Burmese to the North. In 1774, King Kavila retook the ruined Chiang Mai and set about rebuilding it. The city was supposed to play the role of the new capital. After Kavila, inept princes ruled the North until the second half of the 19th century, when colonists appeared. Britain took over Upper Burma, and Bangkok's Rama V began to show interest in the northern territories, where the British had had a lucrative logging and transport business since the signing of the unequal treaty in 1855. The king wanted to avoid joining. He forcibly resettled a number of ethnic Thais to the North in order to resist British demands for sovereignty over the territory occupied by Thaii (Shan), where there were many inhabitants from Upper Burma. In 1877, Rama V appointed special commissioners for Chiang Mai, Lamphun and Lamnang to better unite the region and the centre. These ties were strengthened in 1921 when railway. Since then, the North, based on its agricultural abundance, has become a truly prosperous region.

    Isan

    Isan (Thai: ภาคอีสาน) is a region on the arid lands of the Korat sandy plateau, northeast Thailand. Isan includes 20 provinces. The name Isan comes from the Sanskrit "Ishan" and means "to the northeast". This is an agricultural region, a country within a country. Local residents are mainly engaged in the cultivation of agricultural products. The population mainly speaks Isan (a dialect of Lao), as well as Lao and Khmer. There are very few tourists visiting the region.

    Southern Thailand

    Southern Thailand (Thai. ประเทศไทยภาคใต้) is located on the Malay Peninsula and covers an area of ​​70,713 km². Southern Thailand stretches from Chumphon to Malaysia. The narrowest part of the peninsula is the Kra Isthmus, which marks the northern border of Southern Thailand. The western coast is dominated by steep banks, while the eastern part is dominated by plains and river valleys. The largest river is the Tapi in Surat Thani Province, which has a basin of about 8,000 square kilometers, so that the river basin occupies about 10% of the area of ​​​​Southern Thailand. The largest lake is Songkhla with an area of ​​1040 km². In addition, there is the Jiao Lan reservoir, whose area is 165 km². It is also home to the Khao Sok National Park, located in Surat Thani Province. Southern Thailand is home to many of Thailand's most famous resorts. The south of the country is inhabited by Thais and peoples of Malay origin. Islam is highly developed.

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    The northeastern part of Thailand, which is informally called I-san (I-san), stretches along the border with Cambodia and Laos. This is perhaps the least touristy part of Thailand with a distinctive culture and cuisine.

    Isan can be conditionally divided into two parts - the southern part, which borders the South of Laos and the North-West of Cambodia, and the northern part, which borders the central part of Laos. The most famous cities in the region are Ubon Ratchatani on the southern border with Laos towards Pakse and Udon Thani in the northern part, crossing the border with Laos towards Vientiane.

    South Isan - Khao Yai and historical parks

    The southern part of Isan stretches along the border with Cambodia, it is not surprising that the most spectacular ancient Khmer temples of the Angkor period are located here. Without leaving, you can visit the famous Khao Yai National Park, see Khmer monuments in the historical parks of Isan and plunge into the friendly atmosphere of local cities.

    Korat (Nakhon Rakchasima)

    This city is often called Chiang Mai by travelers without tourists) Old city, walled, atmospheric temples, a huge night market, delicious local food, a fairly good selection of accommodation - this, by the way, is one of the most major cities region, very conveniently located on the way from Bangkok to the distant cities of Isan, not far from the historical park Phimai (Phimai) - one of the most significant historical parks in Thailand.

    Wihan Wat Luang Pho Toe, Nakhon Rakchasima. Photo credit: Taweesak Boonwirut, Flickr


    Nakhon Rakchasima, Isan. Photo credit: adrian.brand, Flickr


    Wat Ban Rai, (Dan Khun Thot), Nakhon Rakchasima. Photo credit: Kantashootthailand, Flickr

    Khao Yai National Park

    Khao Yai National Park is the largest and one of the most visited parks in Thailand. Khao Yai lies on the way from Bangkok to Korat, so it is convenient to combine the study of the park with a tour of the historical parks of the region.

    You can get acquainted with the park either on your own by renting a motorbike or car, or in the company of a guide with a tour of the park (almost all the guest houses and lodges of the park help their guests with transport rental and tour organization).

    How to get there: by bus or train to Pak Chong (from Bangkok or Korat), from the station by taxi or motorbike to the park.

    Khao Yai National Park, Isan. Photo credit: Chris Wilson, Flickr


    Khao Yai National Park, Isan. Photo credit: Rick Baker, Flickr


    Khao Yai National Park, Isan. Photo credit: Worawit Soranaraksophon, Flickr

    Phimai

    The tiny town of Phimai is located next to the historical park of the same name, on the territory of which you can find beautifully preserved temples of the period ancient angkor. Here is the largest star anise tree in Thailand. The park can be visited as part of a day trip from Korat, but a more "atmospheric" option is to stay overnight in Phimai, rent a bike, visit the temples in the early morning / late afternoon, drive around the area and spend the evening having dinner at one of the nice tiny local restaurants .

    How to get there: by bus from Korat or Khon Kaen

    Phimai, Isan. Photo credit: issrasai, Flickr


    Phimai Historical Park, Isan. Photo credit: Francis Halin, Flickr


    Star anise trees, Phimai. Photo credit: Tony Withers, Flickr

    Nong Kong and Phanom Rung

    The provincial town of Nong Kong itself is not of particular interest from a tourist point of view, the main interest for the traveler lies in the proximity of Nong Kong to the Phanom Rung historical park - a complex of well-preserved Khmer temples located on top of an extinct volcano. The best way to explore the temples is by renting a motorbike at one of the guest houses in Nong Kong.

    How to get there: by bus from Bangkok and major cities of South Isan.

    Phanom Rung Historical Park. Photo credit: Manuel ROMARÍS, Flickr

    South Isan - Mekong

    Part of southern Isan stretches along the Mekong along the picturesque national parks along the border with Laos, so it is logical to combine a trip to this part of Isan with a visit.

    Ubon Ratchatani

    This pretty lazy town is one of the friendliest in Thailand. Most travelers pass Ubon on their way to Pakse, on. However, stopping here can be quite an interesting experience. Judge for yourself - good inexpensive hotels and guest houses, super-delicious local food, a pleasant atmosphere and proximity to three picturesque national parks, including Pha Taem Park, which stretches along the Mekong. From the city, you can organize a day trip to the park, returning by boat on the river, or rent a motorbike and explore the natural beauty on your own.

    Ubon Ratchatani. Photo credit: eatingthaifood


    Pha Taem National Park. Photo credit: JCH Travel, Flickr

    Khong Chiam

    Khong Chiam is a tiny town located right on the Mekong on the border with Laos between two magnificent national parks Pha Taem and Kaeng Tana. A great option for those who prefer nature to city stops.

    How to get there: by bus or taxi from Ubon Rachatani; by bus or taxi to the border with Laos and further to Pakse.

    Mukdahan

    Mukdahan is the largest city on the Mekong, with charming colorful houses, great guest houses, delicious local food and close proximity to national park Phu Pha Thoep. Mukdahan is located opposite the charming southern Lao town of Sawanakhent, the two cities have much in common and are connected by a large road border bridge (Friendship Bridge 2).

    How to get there: by plane from Bangkok, and via Ubon Rachatani (see connect tickets to Mukdahan on); by bus from Savanakhent via Friendship Bridge 2; by bus from Khon Kaen and Ubon Rachatani.

    Mukdahan, Isan. Photo credit: captainsvoyage-forum


    Mukdahan. Photo credit: Keng Susumpow Flickr


    North Isan - Mekong

    This part of Isan also boasts interesting historical sites, and along the Mekong you can find charming tiny towns/villages, rent a bungalow overlooking the river and spend a couple of days enjoying doing nothing.

    Udon Thani

    Udon Thani is perhaps the most developed city of Isana from a tourist point of view. Large selection of accommodation, huge market, modern shopping centers, a large number of attractions in the region, including the incredible historical park Phu Phra Bat, an interesting mixture of Isan, Lao, Vietnamese and Chinese cultures, which are reflected in the local cuisine, as well as proximity to the capital of Laos Vientiane creates a good reputation for the city. If you want to visit one city in Isan, then Udon Thani is probably the best option.

    How to get there: by plane from Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket; by bus from Bangkok and Vientiane across the Friendship Bridge; by train from Bangkok and Korat.

    Udon Thani. Photo credit: udonthaniattractions


    Phu Phra Bat Historical Park. Photo credit: loupiote, Flickr

    Nong Khai

    Nong Khai - This small town located on the Mekong near the border with Laos is the most popular tourist destination in Isan. Travelers adore Nong Khai for its mesmerizing views of the Mekong, affordable accommodation and delicious food. Not far from Nong Khai there is a mystical one with huge statues of Buddha and various mystical creatures.

    How to get there: by shuttle bus from Udon Thani Airport; by bus from Bangkok International Airport; by train from Bangkok, Khon Kaen and Udon Thani; by bus from Udon Thani, Khon Kaen and Vientiane via the Friendship Bridge (see timetables and tickets).

    Nong Khai. Photo credit: Ro(e)l-and(o) de Smet, Flickr