Overview of descenders. mountain training
I present to your attention the first article and a whole series devoted to mountain training in the survivalist's arsenal.
The first article is devoted to equipment, as well as descent technique. The descenders "bast" and "eight" and some moments of self-insurance will be considered.
Because I am self-taught, I may make some mistakes, which I hope will be pointed out to me in the comments. But do not forget about constructive and friendly communication, without stooping to a banal srach.
I apologize for the quality of the photo, there was practically no light, it was filmed with a flash. Some things had to be done at home.
Let's start with the equipment list.
We will need:
Suspension system.
I use Petzl Corax, but you can get by with a more budget-friendly Vento.
Descending device. I use a vent basket and a horned figure eight.
Approximately three locking carbines per person.
Two pieces of rope 25m and 10m. I use 10mm diameter static
Gloves so as not to burn your hands.
The photo also includes knee pads and elbow pads.
The boots were never used. Instead, I climbed Lowa Zephyr.
Set for two people, me and my wife.
All this, including a thermos with tea, was put away in a trunk.
Now I will tell about each element in more detail.
Suspension system.
Petzl is still a brand with a worldwide reputation, which is why I bought it. I don't have much experience, but overall I like it. Wide, comfortable waistband and leg loops. Large range and very easy adjustments. Lots of hanging points for accessories. In short, a great choice.
Rope - domestic static 10mm diameter. In order to attach to the anchor point, you need to learn the figure-eight knot. It is simple, but very strong and practically does not weaken the rope. The order of knitting in the photo.
The tied knot looks like this.
Next, a carabiner is fastened into the loop. With this carabiner, you can attach to various hooks, embedded parts, lugs, anchors, etc., but this is not very safe, because. fasteners may be rusty and not very reliable.
The most reliable fastening is for monolithic objects, reinforced concrete. supports, large channels and I-beams, then with the help of a carbine a sliding loop is made, with the help of which the fastening takes place.
The rope is hung out, the hanging one is put on. Next we fasten the trigger.
I have seen two types of carabiner fastening into the system. In the central ring or simultaneously in the loops of the waist and leg loops. Petzl explicitly states that the carabiner must be clipped into the ring.
So far I have used the Ventovsky basket and the horned figure eight. I'll start with the bow.
Its advantages:
- does not twist the rope.
- convenient to use.
- can be used as an automatically blocking insurance (but more on that another time)
The cable on this SS can only be used for transportation, it cannot be loaded.
For use on a rope, make a loop and thread it through the DR so that the free end of the rope passes through the jaws of the device.
By pulling the free end of the rope up, we select the slack.
We start a hand with a free end behind the back, pulling the rope. Everything can be posted. The descent is made by slightly relaxing the hand with the rope.
The figure-eight descender works in a similar way, but it twists the rope, which is not convenient on long descents.
There are two ways to attach the rope to the figure eight.
The first is through a carbine.
This method creates less friction, resulting in a higher descent speed.
The second way is through the neck of the SU. More friction and less speed.
Similarly, we choose a basket of slack and wind up a hand with a stretched rope behind our back.
A feature of the horned figure eight is that you can fix the rope on it and free your hands.
Some moments of self-insurance.
There is always some chance that you will let go of the rope from your hand, and the SU will immediately release the entire rope and you will fall. To avoid this, there are various ways of insurance and self-insurance.
I'm using the "autoblock" node. It knits as follows.
For this knot, I use a standard 60cm quickdraw.
We fix the guy with a semi-grasping knot (noose) on the leg girth, hang a carbine next to it.
We wrap the quickdraw 4-6 times around the rope.
Then we snap it onto the carabiner. All. The node is ready.
In the event of a breakdown, you will hang on this knot and not fall. At the same time, the hand must be kept between the SU and the autoblock while adjusting the speed of descent.
Now to practice.
First. We get up on the "windowsill" from where we will go out, select the slack of the rope and pull it.
As a result, the fifth point is displayed.
Good day. I want to bring to your attention an overview of descenders for organizing rappelling. This review is my personal subjective opinion, formed due to considerable experience in climbing and working as an industrial climber.
I have at my immediate disposal three triggers, the rest I just happened to use.
The simplest and most well-known escapement of the "eight" type. 
Depending on the size of the holes, it can be used on both single and double ropes with a diameter of 8 to 13 mm. In the model shown, the small hole can be used for descending thin ropes and for belaying.
The advantages of this device:
1. Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3. Reliability.
4.Does not require maintenance.
5.Multifunctionality.
6. Light weight.
1. Spins the rope.
2. In some models (for example, as in the photo) there is no mustache for fixing the rope, which in turn complicates hanging on such a descender.
My favorite trigger is from petzl PIRANA. Despite its similarity to the figure-eight, this device was developed by petzl specifically for canyoning, which brought some good innovations to its design. 
For reference: Canyoning (eng. Canyoning or Canyoneering) - overcoming canyons without the help of floating means (boats, rafts, canoes, kayaks, etc.) using various techniques for overcoming complex water-rocky terrain: rock climbing, rappelling, jumping into the water , swimming.
When passing canyons, climbing technical equipment is used: ropes, carabiners, safety harnesses, descenders, helmets, etc.
The advantages of this device:
1. Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3. Reliability.
4.Does not require maintenance.
5.Multifunctionality.
6. Ability to work calmly on a wet, dirty, icy rope.
7. The ability to work calmly when descending with a lot of weight.
8.Very easy fixation of the rope to stop and the same easy extraction.
9. Light weight.
Disadvantages of this device:
1. Spins the rope.
Trigger device type "Basket". 
A very light and comfortable descender that allows you to work equally comfortably on one or two ropes. As long as you have a secure anchor point for your rope, this little guy will fly you the distance you need in just a couple of seconds.
In my opinion, the most convenient device is a descender that can be used for belaying on a rocky route.
The advantages of this device:
1. Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3. Reliability.
4.Does not require maintenance.
5.Small weight.
6. Does not twist the rope.
7. Very comfortable work on two ropes.
8. The ability to work calmly on a wet, dirty, icy rope.
Disadvantages of this device:
1. There is no way to hover (hover securely) at the required height without using other devices.
Trigger device "Lattice". 
Perhaps I'm going to overdo it a little, but at most it's a little bit if I say that this is the favorite descender of almost all cavers. I don’t like him very much, but this is probably more due to my misunderstanding of him and the fact that I am not a caver. A large number of my friends have been using its various modifications for many years, and I hear only positive feedback from them.
The advantages of this device:
1. Simplicity.
2.Strength.
3. Reliability.
4.Does not require maintenance.
5. Does not twist the rope.
6. Very comfortable work on two ropes.
7. The ability to work calmly on a wet, dirty, icy rope.
Disadvantages of this device:
1.Dimensions.
The next device has so many popular names that I'd rather take SIMPLE, known to all speleologists. 
This is the little brother or sister of the petzl stopper. The SIMPLE is quite a handy device for long descents on a single rope. Due to the absence of protruding elements and parts, it is very convenient in narrow places. But for me, that's where the positives end.
The advantages of this device:
1. Does not twist the rope.
Disadvantages of this device:
1.Dimensions.
2.Weight. (not very hard but I would like to feel better)
3. Lack of ability to use as a device for insurance.
4. It is not possible to hover (hover securely) at the required height without using other devices.
5. There is no possibility to work on a double rope.
6. Requires care.
Stopper from petzl. 
One of the most popular caving descenders in the world. Allows good control of the speed of descent. Can be attached to the rope without snapping off the harness thanks to the spring clip.
The automatic brake system is activated when the handle is released.
It is possible to climb the rope without changing the position of the device, using a leg loop and a jumar.
The advantages of this device:
1. Does not twist the rope.
2. The ability to calmly work on a wet, dirty, icy rope.
3. Ability to hover (hover securely) at the required height without using other devices.
Disadvantages of this device:
1.Dimensions.
2.Weight. (not very hard but I would like to feel better)
3. Lack of ability to use as a device for insurance.
5. Requires care.
Automatic belay (downhill) device GRIGRI 2. 
Forgive me lovers of bells and whistles, but I never understood him and never will.
Description from the manufacturer's website:
Belay device with automatic lock for ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm.
The GRIGRI 2 auto-lock belay device is designed to make belaying easier. The GRIGRI 2 works equally well for both leader and top belay. The device can be used with all single dynamic ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). Compact and ultra-light, the GRIGRI 2 will serve you faithfully in your climbing activities around the world for years to come. The new design of the GRIGRI 2 provides better control during the descent.
The belay technique is identical to the classic belay systems: both hands on the rope. The fall is stopped by holding the free end of the rope.
Blocking: In the process of stopping the fall, the belayer holds the free end of the rope, the cam turns and grabs the rope, increasing the degree of blocking until the rope slippage is completely stopped.
The new design of the GRIGRI 2 provides excellent control during the descent. One hand holds the free end of the rope while the other hand depresses the handle to unlock the cam. The patented handle design allows for very smooth etching of the rope. Combined with the strong blocking action of the cam, this provides a feeling of complete control when descending.
GRIGRI 2 is compact and ultra-light: only 185g (25% smaller and 20% lighter than the previous GRIGRI).
The design of the device includes a stainless steel brake plate and cam to ensure a long product life.
For use with single ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm in diameter (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm).
Schemes for installing the device on a rope are engraved on the device (on the outside and on the inside).
And now I will scold this miracle of technology. Personally, I absolutely did not like working with him, although perhaps it's all a matter of habit. It was very uncomfortable for me to give out the rope to the leader, if you do it with even the slightest jerk, the rope will be immediately clamped.
The advantages of this device:
1. Does not twist the rope.
2. Ability to hover (hover securely) at the required height without using other devices.
3. Convenient for belaying the second in a pair.
Disadvantages of this device:
1. Abundance of mechanics.
2. Demanding on the rope!!!
3.Weight.
4. It is not possible to work on a double rope.
5. Requires care.
With this article, Master Gumbs, I begin a series of materials about climbing pieces of iron.
It is not enough to climb a mountain or a building. From there, you still have to get off. Often, it is much more convenient to use a descender than to try to get back on your tracks, slipping and balancing. And in industrial mountaineering, in most cases, they get to the workplace by the descent method. It is far from always convenient to descend on knots. Yes, and "iron" offers a much larger number of use cases.
So - "eight"
.
One of the most common descenders, descending from the legendary Sticht puck. Naturally, having a bunch of options. The principle of operation is based on increasing friction. So, the classic figure eight increases the effort on the rope by 4-20 times. For example, if you hold the rope with your hands in front of the figure eight with a force of 25 kg, then behind the figure eight the force will be 200 kg, with a grip force of 50 kg by hands - 300 kg.
Due to the large number of kinks, a common disadvantage of all figure-of-eights is that they twist the rope. This can be somewhat smoothed out by preventing the rope from touching the ground.
Bicorn, horned
Classical and specialized ("Pirana" from "Pecel")
Horned figure eight (invar, puck)
Blocked eight. In the unloaded state, it is slightly offset towards the working hand, but if there was someone in the harness, it would become straight.
To descend, you need to take the free end in your hand (which goes down), and, slightly pulling, begin to drop the coils from the horns. When you feel that you have begun to crawl down, then everything is going as it should.
For a hundred kg of cargo, it is better to leave one turn on the horns. If, however, a person weighs 60 kilos, then you can safely dump everything. Naturally, not forgetting about holding the end.
And a correctly blocked eight)
But so few people do.
As a rule, this is a metal product that repeats the figure "eight" in shape. Two rings are inextricably linked with each other, one is less than the other at least one and a half times. On the one hand, there are two protrusions in the form of horns, intended for blocking, by wrapping with a rope, up to 5 ogons (turns) are performed. You can try more, but it will not fit))). For additional blocking, the free end can be passed between the figure-eight and the stretched part of the rope.
It is used in mountaineering, promalp and organization of show-offs. It is used for descent, and in mountaineering / rock climbing, also for insurance
For mountaineering, aluminum is most often used, in industrial use steel is more often used.
In the first case - to reduce wearable weight, in the second - for durability. After 50-60 descents on a contaminated rope, the duralumin "eight" is produced by about a third, becoming completely unusable.
Steel, on the other hand, lives for two or three seasons, while the Moldavian-Central Asian brigades live up to ten
Rope threading options. On the left - a variant for lightweights. On the right - for good people, who should be many.
I think that the relationship between the method of refueling and the weight of the descent body is noticeable. For ensigns, I suggest:
The rope passing through the carabiner and figure eight has fewer kinks, and, accordingly, creates less friction. Less friction - faster descent speed. Everything is simple.
With this option, the rope passes on the other side. There are no major changes involved. A matter of habit, nothing more. Personally, I prefer the right one.
There is also such a refueling option. Also, it doesn't change anything.
Despite the fact that the origin of the name is clear from the design itself, I once heard a version that the figure eight got its name due to the fact that with additional blocking, the turns on the horns intersect.
Classic figure eight (hornless)
It is used in mountaineering and rock climbing to organize the descent. It is not intended for hanging, because there is nothing to block the rope. Unless, one more carbine to fasten, and throw fires through it. well, or wind up ingenious knots.
During factory production, it is made of aluminum alloys.
On the left - the position for uncontrolled descent :)
On the right is the working position. The lower end, like all eights, must be controlled by hand during the descent.
Specialized eights.
There are a huge number of options designed for the most diverse specializations in the world. Unfortunately, I have at hand only Petselev's "Pirana" without a corresponding carbine, therefore, a detailed story will not work.
To be continued
Materials and types
As a rule, this is a metal (aluminum alloys or steel) cast part, repeating the figure eight in shape. Two rings are inextricably linked with each other, one is one and a half times smaller than the other with an inner circle diameter of up to 50 mm.
The use of the eight for insurance
The figure eight is used for insurance during the descent and ascent of a participant with a heavy backpack, an injured person with an accompanying person, etc.
When belaying, the figure eight is fixed on the upper point, with a small ring to the base carabiner. The rope passes through a large ring and wraps around the neck (see illustration 1). The participant on the belay stands on self-belay and holds the rope on opposite sides of the eight, giving out or choosing the rope as he moves and making sure that the carabiner is tense.
The use of an eight for descent (rappel)
- When descending slowly, when descending with a pack or load, or when descending a heavy load, the rope is thrown over the neck of the figure-eight, which increases friction and slows down the descent (see illustration 1).
- During high-speed (sport) descent, the rope is passed through the carabiner (see illustration 2).
- You can also use the descent method, in which the figure eight is automatically fixed. To do this, the rope is twisted 180 ° counterclockwise and thrown over the neck of the eight. When descending, one hand of the participant must constantly hold the lower part of the rope. With the other hand, the participant releases the eight from fixation by turning its small ring down. If you raise the ring or just let it go, the rope will pinch and the descent will stop (see illustration).
This method of insurance (see illustration 3) is fundamentally dangerous and is not recommended for use. Leaving the rope off the small ring will result in complete loss of rope control and an uncontrolled fall.
Links
Wikimedia Foundation. 2010 .
See what "Eight (device)" is in other dictionaries:
Eight is a noun corresponding to the number 8. Eight (boat) boat in rowing. "Eight" unofficial name VAZ 2108, Audi A8; as well as any eight-cylinder engine. "Eight" appearance of an endless tape ... ... Wikipedia
Eight Eight (device) device for organizing insurance and downhill skiing Eight (knot) knot used in rock climbing and mountaineering ... Wikipedia
Original taken from mr_aug V
Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Likbez. Theory and practice of entry level
In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training in the most simple way for absolute beginners in the subject.
I will tell you about the terms and the simplest techniques of descent and ascent that everyone can master.
Just a few months ago, in order to collect this information, I had to climb the Internet for a rather long time, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.
The article turned out to be big, but you can’t throw out the words from the song. She wrote for a long time. Right in parallel with writing, I experienced or mastered something new and included it in the article.
Also, I do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.
Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.
So. It all started with the great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of movement on a rope. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.
Now we will slowly begin to disassemble each item of equipment and the term that may meet on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.
The first thing we need is rope.
Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t go down from there.
Two types of ropes are used in mountaineering: static(static - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are characterized by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.
The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the jerk that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics is very often used for belaying climbing. For lower insurance, it is generally required.
For a simple descent and ascent on a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 meters is enough for everything and still remains. The budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).
Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in promalp - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the descender.
I advise you to stop at the golden mean - 10 mm.
And if we touched the ropes, then we can not ignore repsnur(repic, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8mm. It has a bunch of applications, ranging from the organization of self-insurance and ending with the manufacture of shoelaces.
In general, the paracord was not lying around.
I use a 5mm cord, a skein of which is almost always in my backpack.
With the ropes sort of figured out.
From the ropes we smoothly pass to the knots.
There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on some of the most in my opinion demanded.
First it eight, we can say - this is the main node that can be used in almost any case. Very reliable knot, practically does not weaken the rope.
The figure eight is used for bindings, both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and lengthening ropes, in general, for almost everything.
You need to learn how to knit a figure eight loop.
Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than the figure eight, but knits faster. A control node is required. Not absolutely reliable. Tie a better eight.
You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will insure ourselves.
Well, knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.
Note! The free end of the rope should exit from the side opposite the carabiner sleeve.
Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, now you can climb and descend?
In principle, yes, you can, like in the good old days, rappel without any equipment.
To rappel - to descend with a rappel. Many people think that this is any descent, but it is not. Dylfer is a descending technique named after the inventor.
So, it is possible to go down in this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.
For convenience and safety, it has long been invented Individual Harness Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, suspended).
They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and do not let you fall.
Systems are full And waist.
I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by purchasing special straps.
For beginners, I would recommend a regular ISS without shoulders.
If you need a budget option, then the domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. In the people they are affectionately called "egg cutters". If there is enough money, then it is better not to be stingy and take something from the famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.
The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist girth
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not cargo, in no case should you insure and hang on them.
Dealt with insurance systems.
Now we need combine rope with ISS. You can do this in two ways. Knot and through a carabiner.
The knot is still the same figure eight, but I will talk about carbines a little lower.
The carabiner is fastened into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation of all manufacturers.
Very often they are taught to fasten into the belt loop and the leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake. increases the chance that the carabiner will warp and it will be loaded laterally. At the same time, only a knot can be attached to both loops.
Do not believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.
Now let's move on to carbines.
So what are carbines.
Firstly, they are sleeved and non-sleeved.
Their difference is that the clutched ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.
Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
With automatic it is convenient to manipulate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded sockets. And most importantly, always make sure that the carbine is muffled.
Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.
Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal with a similar weight have greater strength than oval.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.
Carabiners are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.
Steel carabiners are heavy and very strong, aluminum carabiners are much lighter. Titanium ones are quite rare and I did not communicate with them.
Now for strength.
Each carbine is equipped with this marking. It means that the carbine from the photo in the muffled state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.
You see how important it is to lock the carabiners and make sure they are positioned properly.
Note! The clutch of the carabiner should always "look" at you. This way you will see if the carabiner has accidentally disengaged.
If it is possible that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.
I would advise a beginner to buy 3-4 carbines of various shapes with threaded couplings. Production material - optional.
Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).
The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.
SU happen manual And automatic.
In manual landing stages, the speed of descent and braking depend only on the way the rope is threaded and on the force with which a person pulls the rope below the landing stage.
Automatic descenders have a special mechanism. We pull the handle - we go down. We release the handle - we hang. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.
In this article, I will only talk about hand-held devices. for a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alp, automatic devices are completely redundant.
And I will tell you about two types of triggers - this is a figure-eight and a Shikht puck.
SU eight- This is one of the most classic devices. Looks like this.
The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents, the rope will be full of "lambs" that will then have to be untangled.
The advantages include several options for refueling the rope.
There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the speed of descent is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.
Well, at any time, the horned figure eight can be blocked by winding the rope around the horn.
Another, more modern version of the figure eight is the Petzl piranha. It has even more ways to fasten and adjust the speed of descent. More about this trigger device will be in a separate review.
By the way, take a look at the non-Petselevsky carbine. When it's decoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea in my opinion.
The second type of manual SU is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverse, etc.
Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a descent.
Threading the rope is carried out as follows. A loop is created that is threaded into a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.
A carabiner is fastened inside the loop.
Note! The cable is not a loaded part and serves only for transportation.
Let's say the stars align. You have bought a coil of rope, ISS, carabiners and a belay device.
Good, still needed helmet. But I leave it on your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet will not hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always elicit a healthy response.
Will not be redundant knee pads. Otherwise, bruising on the knees cannot be avoided.
Just as important are good gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm, you can instinctively release the rope from your hands from pain, which can be fatal.
Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.
Do not forget to call a friend with you who will carry out insurance. Haven't forgotten? Well done!
Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can go down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.
For the first workouts, the lower the better.
Now we put on a harness. Tighten and check all buckles. Ask a friend to check again.
The first step is to fasten the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one unconditionally reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These anchor points are called stations.
We will be attached to a living tree. This is a pretty safe anchor point.
We are tied to the tree with the same blessed figure eight, well, or bowline without forgetting the control knot.
There is another option to buy quickdraw from a 120 cm long sling and using a carabiner to create just such a station.
Using a semi-grasping knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but a "choke" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.
We'll do it like this.
Well, in general, such braces from the sling are very useful in the household. You have to take a couple.
The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a mustache of self-insurance. If you do not know what it is, then you can play it safe with a repic, as I am in the photo.
And since we are talking, I will say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are segments of a sling or dynamic rope, which are attached to the system at one end and to the insurance point at the other.
There are industrial production and self-linked.
Purchased looks like this.
Self bound so. A figure-eight mustache knot is attached to the system.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length - 55 cm. It mainly serves to attach to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.
A jumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you reach the latch of the jumar (how the jumar looks like, where it has a latch and what it is in general, I will tell you a little lower).
At the free ends of the self-insurance mustache, knots are knitted into which carabiners are fastened. I use a semi-grapevine with three turns. If you do not know how to such a node, use the figure eight.
Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. They created a station on it, snapped a self-insurance. Happened? Well done!
Now, at the end of the rope on which we will descend, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner, which was hung at the station.
At the other end of the rope, we also knit a knot and drop the bay into the "chasm".
This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall over the end.
Even if you think that the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure of it. Ask a friend downstairs.
If the rope passes over the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then it is worth putting on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (basin, a piece of a fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.
If the protector is not worn, then a couple of times this picture is obtained. Agree, it's not.
We thread the rope into the descender (I hope you didn’t forget it below). Pull the free end up and take out the slack.
Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, then you will not be able to fall.
At this stage, you can click the mustache of the lanyard from the station.
By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. An insurer should stand below, and it is desirable that this is not your worst enemy, who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.
The spotter must be ready to pull on the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from insurance by pretty climbers or talking on a cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.
We start the hand with the rope under the ass, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
With our backs we go to the edge, slowly giving out the rope by slightly relaxing the palm.
Resting with our feet, we hang out the fifth point so that the legs are at a right angle to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.
We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly give out the rope until we touch the ground.
Congratulations, the first descent is completed!
In the future, the descents can be complicated at will.
From the insurer, you can and should go to self-insurance(and also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).
Just for this, we learned the grasping knot.
The knot is usually knitted either above the SA or below. What is the difference?
If we knit a grasping knot above the SU, then in case of a breakdown, we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.
To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot, we need to rise a little. To do this, we need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.
In general, the task is not very trivial.
An easier option is to knit a grasping knot below the SU. In the photo, an autoblock unit is used.
In this case, during a fall, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.
We only need to take hold of the rope between the SU and the knot, thus we will unload the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
It seems like a good method, but it also has drawbacks. If the reason for the breakdown is in the destruction of the SS, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.
Read more about securing a self-insurance below the SU in a very sensible article:
Everything, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.
Even if you stop after having mastered only the basics, you have already acquired skills that, in certain circumstances, such as a fire in a stairwell, can save your life.
All about the descent.
Now it's time to touch climb on a rope, but first I’ll talk a little about clamps.
clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed by clamping the rope, hence the name.
Rope climbing requires two ascenders or one ascender + auto belay device.
The most common clamp is jumar. This is a clip with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (hence the term zhumarit, means to climb). It is advisable to have at least one.
Zhumars are left and right, under any hand.
The principle of operation of the jumar is quite simple. It is based on clamping the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.
We put an open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. Up, it slides freely along the rope, and when loaded, it is fixed. A loaded jumar cannot be removed.
For more security, you can click the carabiner like this.
A pedal is fastened to the handle of the jumar. All the same, the strongest muscles in a person are in the legs.
The pedal should be of such length that when standing in it with a fully extended leg, the jumar is at chest level.
Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but already under the left hand.
The rise on two jumars is done as follows.
We get up on the pedal of the left jumar. We push the right jumar up the rope as much as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. We make a push with the right foot - "we rise to the step." Then we push the left jumar, etc.
With the mustache of self-insurance, it is better to insure both jumars.
Instead of the second jumar, you can (and even need to) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn off handle. It hangs on the chest. In the case of use with a waist ISS, it is necessary to additionally hang a special rope around the neck.
The principle of lifting on a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will show this method in a separate video.
We depend on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal put on at the knee. Pull up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hover on the crawl and push the jumar further.
At the same time, you can hold on to the jumar with both hands, and pass both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.
Climbing with jumar + front crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.
There is an option to do without jumar.
For example, using the crawl + pantin scheme.
pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is the same.
But I would advise at least one jumar, but buy it. In addition to lifting on it, you can also insure, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clamps that I highlight are safety clamps.
As you ascend, the belay ascender rides alongside you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.
They ride up freely, and when they fall, they block and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.
I also want to mention various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their small weight and size.
As a result, one or two such clamps can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.
In general terms, everything is on the rise.
Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And more specifically about the jerk factor.
A newcomer entering any forum in the discussion of any iron sees this term almost immediately.
Its essence is very simple to understand.
"jerk factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.
A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether this piece of iron will fall apart during a jerk or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.
Quite simply: if we have secured something (a quickdraw, a belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point should not be below the belt.
That's all. Thank you for your attention!