Tarring hunting skis? If you don't smear it, you won't be able to tar wooden skis with your own hands.

To all beginners and those who decided to perform this procedure with their favorite skis.

I share my experience of tarring new wooden skis “VYATKA” using a hair dryer.

Tarnished- applying a thin layer of special ski resin with a brush to the sliding surface of wooden skis (plastic skis do not need to be resinized) and subsequent mandatory heating of the smeared surface using thermal effects (hot air, open flame).

To tar or not to tar, everyone decides.

Recommendation ski factories And athletes on running skiing - definitely resin, By degrees abrasion layer former tarring, after ski season.

Key issues: choosing a location and choosing a tool for thermal exposure.

Place carrying out the procedure:

I resined on the landing of the multi-story building where I live :).

Despite the strong pungent smell of heated resin and the noise of a working hair dryer, none of the residents made any complaints. Can you imagine if I used an open flame of a gas burner?

ATTENTION:

The fumes are toxic, try not to inhale the “steam”. There is no need to tar at home - all things will smell of tar and you will burn yourself!

The nozzle is very hot, do not grab it with your bare hands, there will be a thermal burn to the skin!!!

ChoicetoolForthermalimpacts:

Blowtorch (I don’t recommend it because it’s an open flame, it’s advisable to have experience in using it, it can only be used outdoors, you need to warm the foot up to operating temperature, there’s a risk of burning your ski, keeping a supply of gasoline at home will still be an extra minus);

Gas burner (many have used it, but I don’t recommend it - you need handling skills, can only be used outdoors, there is a risk of burning your ski, there are also advantages - almost everywhere you can buy a burner attachment with piezo ignition for 350-450 rubles, and the simplest one costs 120 rubles , + gas cylinder 40-60 rubles);

House heating radiator (heating is weak, definitely not suitable)

- building hair dryer/gun from a 220V power supply (no open flame, heating the air at the hair dryer nozzle to 550-600 degrees Celsius, can be used outdoors and in the entrance, it is difficult to light the ski, you can find branded steel attachments on sale for 210-240 rubles, 75 mm wide (very it’s convenient to move the hairdryer over the ski /90mm/ along it), standard attachments included are usually 30-40 mm wide, the minimum price of a hairdryer is 1 thousand rubles for uncool manufacturers, for our purposes, buying one with many functions will be clearly superfluous, by the way, a hairdryer can come in handy when carrying out home repair and finishing work).

Onmysight,mostsuitabletool - Thisbuildinghairdryer!

Whatneed toForprocedures:

Dry wooden skis

Construction hair dryer (+ for convenience, it is advisable to use a wide nozzle of maximum 90 mm - this is the width of VYATKA skis)

Special ski resin in a 100 ml plastic bottle, bought for 80 rubles. in the SPORTS GOODS store (52 Kotovskogo St.). I don’t know which resin manufacturer is better.

Paint brush with artificial bristles, working surface 20-30 mm (bought at Leroy Merlin for 30 rubles). They also use a toothbrush, but it is less effective when spreading it in a thin layer.

Clean cotton cloth (to remove excess resin)

A glass of almost boiling water (for immersing a bottle of resin so that the heated resin becomes more liquid - it is convenient to spread the liquid resin in a thin layer on the ski)

Description of the procedure:

Wipe the floor of the staircase with a damp cloth to remove dust, which will inevitably be raised into the air by the air stream of a working hair dryer and “stick” to the applied resin on the ski.

Place 2 supports (for example, stools, wooden boxes, blocks) and place the ski horizontally on them.

Conditionally divide the ski into 3-4 sections of 45-60 cm each (it is convenient to smear and move the hair dryer by hand without unnecessary steps).

Immerse the bottle with resin for 2-3 minutes in a glass filled 70% by volume with very hot water, almost boiling water, so that the bottle is completely submerged in water.

Pour a more “liquid” resin from the bottle onto the ski in a dosage of approximately 1 cm spot. We use the principle of first spreading and then heating. This ensures even absorption.

Resin consumption - instantly spread a “drop/spot” of resin with a brush over a surface of 15-20 cm on one side of the groove. It’s better to add resin later than to pour more and remove the excess with a rag! I just "cleaned out" the groove. I have a little more than half a bottle of resin left.

Turn on the hairdryer and holding it at a right angle (perpendicular, i.e. at an angle of 90 degrees) start warming up the ski - I warmed it from toe to heel, moving the hairdryer smoothly and slowly. The distance from the tip of the nozzle to the ski was from 5 mm to 10 mm. If you see a cloud of steam, it means the heating was excessive - quickly move the hairdryer to the next micro-section of the ski. The wood expands and the resin is absorbed deep into the ski.

Use a damp, clean cotton rag to clean the sides of each ski, as... accidentally dropped resin will not be absorbed - the wood is protected with varnish so as not to stain your hands/ski cover/clothes.

Afterprocedures:

Leave the skis to dry at home at room temperature for 1-2-3 days, ventilate the apartment regularly.

You can pack the used brush and the bottle with the remaining resin in a plastic bag and tie it with an elastic band from paper money (so that the smell does not penetrate outside).

And now you can go to the PVD to break in your “updated” skis!

Workshops (ski services) that provide the service of resining wooden skis are almost impossible to find today. After all, wooden touring skis are considered a dying format. Despite this, they have their fans and connoisseurs, and not only for the much lower recoil when climbing uphill (you can read about improvised methods of dealing with recoil). And they are simply a budget option for equipment for winter hiking.
So, to get your wooden equipment ready for combat, you'll have to roll up your sleeves and master tarring skis at home.

How and how to tar wooden skis

Tarring is necessary in order to protect skis from water, because wood absorbs it well from wet snow. After processing, it becomes denser and more resistant to wear.

This procedure also protects skis from drying out and cracking in the off-season - in the summer, when they are stored in a barn, on a balcony or mezzanine. In addition, tarring skis is the “basic” protection against sticking. Checked - skis that are tarred, but not lubricated with anything, nevertheless glide. Of course, not like running ones, but in a completely “working” mode.

The resin layer should be renewed before each season. True, hunters prefer to do this after winter, so that the specific smell disappears over the summer and does not scare away the animal.

You can purchase special resin for skis in stores for fishermen and hunters, as well as in equipment stores for tourists.

If, for some reason, you do not find resin, you can use birch tar, which is sold in pharmacies. In extreme cases, wood stain will do.

Below is a universal step-by-step instruction, which is suitable for all types and models of wooden skis. We hope that after reading it you will not have any questions, including how to tar hunting skis.

Useful articles:

Step-by-step instructions for tarring skis

Step 1. Using turpentine and scrapers, remove the old ointment from the skis, sand the “sole” with sandpaper. If the skis are new, treat their sliding surface with fine sandpaper or a piece of window glass.

Step 2. Before tarring your skis, heat a bottle or tube of resin in a glass of hot water to make it more liquid. Place the ski tip and tail on two points, for example, on the backs of two chairs. Mentally divide it into about 3 parts, since it is better to resin the ski in sections.

Step 3. Heat one part of the ski with a torch, blowtorch or industrial hair dryer, but not to the point of scorching. Pour some resin onto the heated area of ​​the ski and immediately spread it with a brush. Do not pour too much so as not to stain the floor and everything around. If resin gets on the sides of the ski, immediately wipe it off with a dry cloth.

Step 4. Heat the treated area of ​​the ski again until bubbles form and rub the resin again. If the resin flares up, blow it out sharply and continue. Do the same with the entire ski. Let it rest and dry, then do the second one at this time.

It so happened that after reading this article, our readers began to ask me a variety of questions not only about lubricants, but also about skis and ski poles. I try to answer all these questions within my competence. In my search for an answer, sometimes I call the best experts in the country in their field and they help me give you the right answer. If, after reading this article and all the answers, you still have questions, please write to me. skisport@mail. ru, I will definitely answer them.

Ivan Isaev,

Editor-in-chief of the magazine "Skiing"

Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing

And now, in fact, the letter itself from our reader.

Please consult. I'm going on a ski trip in February. For two weeks. The question arose of how to prepare the skis. Wooden skis, Forest skis. Initially, when I bought them, I impregnated them with Marathon XXI (formerly Visti) paraffin. I warmed it up with a hairdryer and the paraffin was well absorbed. And I treated it to suit the weather with the same series. Didn't resin.

Most likely, this will not be possible during the hike. Old books advise tarring. I'm thinking, what should I do with them? Will the resin lie on top of the paraffin? Or soak them in “cold” paraffin along the entire length for sliding, and apply them under the cargo area depending on the weather? Or sand it and just tar it?

Sincerely, Glekov Evgeniy.

* * *

Evgeniy, you asked a fantastically interesting question that has puzzled me and many of my skiing friends whom I called in search of an answer. The fact is that I have tarred a lot of wooden skis in my life. And it’s impossible to count how many paraffinized plastic ones there are. But to paraffin wooden ones... This (just don’t be offended, please) is the same as harnessing a horse to a car.

In general, you have asked a problem... But the general verdict (after consultation with friends) is as follows:

1. The best solution for you would still be to “go broke” and buy plastic skis intended for hiking in virgin lands. They will not swell, as will inevitably happen with wooden skis, especially if there is a thaw. They have metal edges, which means they will not have rolled edges. Finally, they won’t break in the most inopportune place, as can easily happen with wooden skis. Buy, for example, these:

2. However, it is clear that you may not have the money to buy skis, but you still want to go hiking. Therefore, if we return directly to your question, it seems to us that it is possible to wax wooden skis. But something tells me that the resin will still stick to the ski better (in fact, forever - I know from my own experience), but the paraffin will “leave” from the ski over time. Although, it is possible that from the point of view of hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties, paraffin will still be more effective than resin for some period of time (we are talking, apparently, not about years, months and weeks, but about days). But, in general, I honestly admitted to you that my own experience in this area, both for me and for all my skiing friends, turned out to be zero, don’t blame me.

So, the options for solving the problem in order of preference:

A) buy new plastic skis;

B) paraffin the ends and coat the block with ointment;

C) sand the skis with fine sandpaper and then thoroughly impregnate them with resin. After this, the ski can be lubricated with ointment along its entire length: in the middle (under the block) with weather-appropriate ointment, at the ends with colder ointment.

Tarring skis is an outdated term that is practically not used by modern ski athletes. This is because ski resin is used for wood products that are not used much by skiers. Due to the fact that ski shops do not apply resin, owners of wooden pairs need to know how to make and apply the lubricant. If you know yourself, you can extend the life of the product.

Resin is needed to protect a wooden product from the destructive effects of moisture. When properly impregnated, the density of the wood increases, which increases the durability of the product.

There are several types of lubricant:

1. For better glide. On different types of snow, wooden products glide differently. To improve this indicator, you can use special ointments.
2. To hold. These impregnations are most often used for plastic skis, but can also be used for wooden ones. They are needed in cases where the skis are slippery and this makes it difficult to push off to start moving. This makes it difficult to climb uphill.
3. For protection against moisture. These lubricants include resins and impregnations that protect wood from exposure to liquids. They must be applied before and after each season. They are used for touring and classic ski pairs.

Composition and manufacture of the product

You can make the impregnation composition at home or purchase a ready-made mixture in the store. The classic mixture consists of the following components:

• pine resin;
• turpentine;
• Birch tar;
• kerosene;

Simpler options are made only from pine resin or birch tar. If you can't find these two ingredients, you can use wood stain.

What products need to be resinized?

Only wooden skis can and should be oiled. The plastic itself is resistant to moisture. Wooden fibers gradually become soaked and begin to rot, crack, and delaminate. You need to soak your ski pair not only before the start of the season, but also after it ends. This is due to the fact that when storing skis on a balcony or in a storage room, they may become unusable due to changes in temperature and changes in air humidity.

Do not store wooden skis near heating elements, in direct sunlight or near sources of open flame.

Step-by-step instructions for resinizing

To achieve maximum results from resining a pair of skis, the products must be processed:

1. Before applying homemade or purchased lubricant, it is necessary to prepare the working surface. To do this, using cycle and turpentine, remove the old layer of impregnation and degrease the surface. Then, use fine sandpaper to sand the surface of the product for better adhesion to the new impregnation.
2. The resin must first be heated to make it more liquid. Place the ski so that it is in a horizontal position on two points of support. You can use chairs for this.
3. Imagine that the surface is divided into three zones. Using a gas torch or industrial hair dryer, heat the first part. Pour a small amount of resin onto it and spread it evenly with a brush.
4. Heat the resin-coated surface again until bubbles appear. Go over it with the brush again. After this, wipe off the remaining resin from the edges of the ski and begin the second part. After treating the entire surface, allow the resin to dry completely and absorb. Leave to dry for a day.

Impregnation of wooden skis with resin is one of the most important procedures that must be carried out constantly. This will avoid damage and wear of the product.

I will modestly voice my opinion on whether hunting skis need to be tarred.

Sure. No need. Those skis that appear, those with a quality mark - they were produced in 1978, and now it’s 2011. They no longer have sharp edges, and the surface is a little scratched, but it’s scratched with the slag that was sprinkled on the roads, because it’s difficult to climb onto the pass of the car on ice they couldn’t, and we, hunters, were lazy not only to crush the powder along the way for 10 kilometers, but also to descend from the hill on foot. I put on my skis and zip down, only to feel how the slag under the ski sometimes gnaws out the wood from it. Back then I didn’t even think that skis could last so long. Please note they are not resinous.

I recently discussed this topic with colleagues and they gave me one of the YouTube videos about tarring skis as a clear example. There a guy grinds his skis and says - I read it on the internet, it needs to be grinded, I don’t understand why they don’t do it at the factory. Here, according to Freud, he hit the nail on the head. This is not done at the factory since this procedure is not necessary on modern VENEER skis. Which disintegrate only in one case, in case of IMPROPER STORAGE. Store them out of season in a fabric cover in the shade, not in the sun (or without a cover, but in the shade, not near a heat source (on a stove or radiator) and do not allow the backs of the skis to stand where water periodically appears, for example , rain. That's all, they will never dry out or get wet and nothing will happen to them. People burn leaves, not understanding the stupidity, but having gotten used to it from childhood, from school, from their yard, knowing that “that’s how they do it” - so do it themselves. And looking at them, their children, etc. The circle is closed. And so it is here. Everyone has forgotten the origins, where it came from. And this masturbation goes back to the time when skis were not veneered, but were simply wooden. I also found these. So that they would not dry out (and we are talking about cross-country racers and this procedure was then carried over from them to hunting by analogy), they were tarred. And then many did not understand why and thought “so that they would ride and glide better,” so athletes tar. And athletes tarred in order to apply “paraffins" - less consumption of paraffins and lay down more evenly. I’ll say right away that paraffins are not paraffins as such, but ointments based on them with the addition of temperature additives - i.e. ski waxes. And people will grab the candle and “refine” the skis - well, now they’ll just carry it, hold on. And they are very surprised that they go to one temperature, but not to another. Heating, cork and hot iron, all to ensure that the layer is not just thin, but even - the glide depends on this, all the unevenness of the ski is leveled out. Now swimmers shave and use smooth suits for the same purpose (they seem to have decided to cancel suits). But look how far we have gone towards sports and how far we have gone from hunting skis. But ski wax is a good thing (if you guess the temperature, otherwise: either the skis will give back, or vice versa, you will scratch them like slag). But if you have a piece lying around in your backpack for above-zero temperatures, that’s a plus (forgive the tautology), in case of a thaw and a potential scam. Although, when we have a podlip, the season is closed for a month and a half. But they also ski in other areas, and a piece of ointment is not large or heavy. Once you use it, you don’t even need to rub it; after 10 minutes, nature will do everything itself. She's such a magician.

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