Kakheti is a region of ancient traditions and the most delicious wines of Georgia. The land where the soul sings - Kakheti How to get to Kakheti on your own

What never ceases to amaze me about Georgia is the work that has been done to attract tourists to the country! We spent one of the days in Kakheti, the main wine-growing region of the country, and I was pleasantly surprised by how conveniently everything was organized here. Well, I won’t even talk about the beauty of these places, you’ll see everything for yourself in the photo!

1. We left Tbilisi around 11 am - we could not have gotten up earlier after another Georgian performance with food, toast and chacha. There were a lot of places to see ahead, but not much time, so our tour turned out to be an introductory one. Well, there will be a reason to come again!

2. The first stop was the Bodbe Monastery, where the relics of St. Nino, the Christian patroness of Georgia, rest. It stands on a mountain, from where there is a fantastic (everything is fantastic in Georgia, as you already understood!) view of the Alazani Valley. It is from the monastery that the previous photograph was taken.

3. The nunnery gives the impression of a very cozy and calm place.

4. I continue to be pleasantly surprised by the development of tourism infrastructure. Each of the places where we came both on this day and in previous days attracts many guests; at each object there are tourist buses, taxis, and souvenirs.

5. The next stop is the city of Sighnaghi, standing on a mountain above the valley. I can't stop thanking the weather for these textured clouds! Look, the city seems to be lying on a green pillow and covered with a duvet of clouds!

7. The town is small, but incredibly pretty! It is entirely surrounded by a perfectly preserved fortress wall, along which you can take a walk.

8. Here, I hope, the wall is visible.

9. And here they are visible - take a closer look! - snowy peaks of the Caucasus Mountains! It was a real miracle, the Caucasus opened up especially for us, because before that the peaks were not visible at all behind the clouds.

10. Several views of the city itself. And again a comparison between Georgia and Italy arises! Do you see the similarities?

11. How beautiful everything is in Sighnaghi, how neat it is - the soul rejoices! There are hotels, spas, and restaurants here! We didn’t have time for a full acquaintance, but we will come again.

15. Sighnaghi is located on a mountain, the streets here are steep, but tourists can ease their fate and ask to be driven up on an ATV. A wonderful idea, in my opinion!

16. Let's move on! The next stop is the Alexander Chavchavadze Palace Museum, located in Tsinandali. Oh, these familiar names from childhood! Thanks to them, you don’t come to Georgia, even if it’s your first time in the country, but as if you’re returning.

17. Pushkin and Griboyedov came here to the family of Alexander Chavchavadze; Griboedov was married to Chavchavadze’s daughter Nina. Alexander Chavchavadze did a lot for the renewal and Europeanization of Georgia, built the first winery and this wonderful estate in Tsinandali. For a long time the museum was in disrepair, but now it is being taken care of, it has been magnificently restored, the park surrounding the estate is still beautiful, and in the basement they hold tastings of Kakheti wine for tourists. The guide will be happy (I'm not kidding!) to take you through the rooms where the furnishings of the first half of the 19th century have been recreated and tell you about the history of the family. There's just one problem - you can't film in the rooms.

18. Road to the estate. Who will be the first to guess which Italian region these cypress trees reminded me of? That's right, Tuscany!

19. Homestead park. In the center of the photo is a bamboo grove.

22. Naturally, we couldn’t miss tasting Kakheti wines! When I studied at the wine school, unfortunately, we did not have classes dedicated to Georgian winemaking, so I was especially glad to come to Kakheti and try everything myself. Wines in this region are traditionally produced using a unique method in clay vessels qvevri. It is in them, buried in the ground, that wine ferments. By the way, not only Georgians turn to this technology: I have come across wine from the north of Italy produced using the same method. Fermentation in qvevri gives the wine a recognizable rustic, homely taste and some straightforwardness. But wines in Kakheti are also made using the traditional European method, so any producer’s lineup includes wines made using both technologies.

23. Next stop - winery Shuchmann. Yes, don’t be surprised, it bears the name of its German owner.

24. I was very pleased with the high level at which everything is organized here: they gave us an excellent excursion, showed us the production, and organized a tasting. I have been to wineries in Europe and Australia, and I can say that Shuchmann is not inferior to them in terms of organization! Our friends, with whom we went on this trip, told us that this production is one of the most advanced in Kakheti. And on Instagram they wrote to me from Hamburg saying that this wine is on sale here!

25. The same qvevri in which wine is made according to the Kakheti method.

26. This thing, if I’m not confusing anything, is used to wash qvevris after they are freed from wine.

27. Tasting overlooking the vineyards.

28. Those wines that you managed to try.

29. And on the road again! We cross the Alazani Valley to get to the very beautiful Kvareli Lake. In the photo - the Alazan River.

30. The legacy of the Saakashvili era is a legal center operating on a single window system in the small town of Kvareli.

31. All the way we came across either cows or grandfathers in carts pulled by donkeys. Unfortunately, I was not able to photograph the grandfathers, and the cows turned out so-so, because... Filmed from the car window. But the photograph, nevertheless, wonderfully conveys the Kakheti spirit.

32. Another stunning view of the valley. We're on resort property Kvareli Lake Resort, where we came specifically for this panorama.

33. As soon as you turn around, this is the view in front of you! What are you saying, does it look like Switzerland? No, no, it's in Georgia! The hotel has a swimming pool, sun terrace, restaurant, and well-furnished rooms. Our friends, however, said that the food in the restaurant was so-so, so we went to another place for dinner.

Kakheti is one of the popular regions in Georgia, where very tasty wine is made and grapes are grown. This is an ancient region of the country, where there are many architectural monuments and monasteries. This is where the Alazani Valley and the world-famous city of Sighnaghi are located, where the registry office operates around the clock. - a place worth visiting.

Distance from Tbilisi to Kakheti - how to get there

The easiest way is to go to Kakheti from Tbilisi with your own car or with a guide using the transport provided by him, because most public transport to this part of the country runs once a day or at very large intervals. You can take a minibus to Telavi or Sighnaghi and then move on from there with a guide by car. If you are not interested, but want to see everything on your own, then you can get there by minibus or taxi.

Often they get to Kakheti from or otherwise. The total route is 240 kilometers, which can be covered in about 4.5-5 hours. First you need to go to Tbilisi, after Mtskheta you will need to go around Tbilisi along the ring road and through the Gombori pass directly to Telavi. If you plan to travel by car, then it is better to choose this route. Despite the road being extended by 60 kilometers, it is better and faster to drive along.

If from Kazbegi you plan to go straight to Sighnaghi, then you need to follow the map - get to Tbilisi along the same road, before reaching the city take the highway through Sagarejo. The other route is shorter - 177 kilometers, but this is only according to the map. In fact, driving like this is very inconvenient, because the entire road passes through populated areas, and its quality is much worse. As a result, such a journey will take longer due to the limited speed of movement.

How to get to Kakheti from Tbilisi by public transport

How to get from Tbilisi to Kakheti by public transport - in Tbilisi from the Isani metro station a minibus leaves to:

• Tsnori is a small town 6 km from Sighnaghi, you can get there for 6 GEL;
• Telavi - fare 7 GEL;
• Kvareli - travel will cost 8-10 lari.
• There is only one minibus running from Telavi to Sighnaghi and back, once in the morning; the schedule must be checked at the bus station.

A minibus runs back from Sighnaghi to the Tbilisi metro station Samgori. The last minibus heading to Tbilisi leaves at 18:00. Minibuses depart from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi every 2 hours, starting from 7 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The trip will take about two hours or a little more, but you need to be at the station in advance to have room.

What route can be built

If you plan an excursion route from Tbilisi to Kakheti for two days, then on the first day you should visit Telavi, Tsinandali if desired, and be sure to check out Alaverdi and Gremi. Then to Nekresi and Kvareli, Kindzmarauli factory, where you can visit the lakes and have a wine tasting. You are allowed to stay overnight in Sighnaghi; it is not far from Tbilisi, but it creates a feeling of charm with the place.

It is better to start the second day with a sightseeing tour of Sighnaghi, then visit the Bodbe Monastery. It is advisable to visit the complex of cave monasteries, which are located almost on the border with Azerbaijan. These monasteries are called David Gareji. The road to this complex is long and tiring, but the beauty of nature and mountains in this place is amazing. Afterwards you can return to the city of Tbilisi.

David Gareji stretches for 25 kilometers and has been located in mountain caves since the 6th century. Most often, only tourist excursions get here, because it’s not enough to see this place, it’s worth hearing about it. Here is the Lavra of St. David and wall inscriptions in many ancient languages. The wall painting also attracts attention.

In order to build a route around Kakheti for one day and see what is most significant, you should contact the guides and book a sightseeing tour. Because it will be problematic to have time to see everything and return on your own using public transport and there will not be enough time to see everything. But trying to see everything by taxi is impractical and expensive. There are excursions in Georgia in Kakheti that will not cost much - from $18 per person and from $100 per group, depending on the load of the selected tour. The duration of the excursion can vary - from 4 hours to several days.

Wine tour to Kakheti

Most tours to Kakheti include excursions to a winery called Kindzmarauli or Kindzmarauli Marani. This winery is located in the city of Kvareli, it’s easier to get to it with a guide, but you can also take a minibus from Tbilisi. The excursion includes an overview of the factory, a detailed introduction to the process of making wine drinks, wine and one type of Kakheti chacha. This is one of the best factories in the vicinity of Tbilisi. The path runs through unique cellars and through a museum of rare grape varieties. The most enjoyable part remains for the finale - tasting the most successful brands of wine.

The largest point on the route through major winemaking centers in the vicinity of Tbilisi is. Here is the house museum of one of the most famous poets of Georgia - Alexander Chavchavadze. Tourist routes usually include the Gvirabi wine tunnel. This is a warehouse for different types of wine from the Khareba Winery company. This tunnel was cut into Mount Kavkasioni, in its rocky part, in the 1950s. At the moment, there are more than 25 thousand bottles of the best varieties of wine. If you take the elevator from the warehouse, you should get to the restaurant, which is located on the cliff. From there you have a beautiful view of the city.

Telavi and Sighnaghi

Kakheti hospitality is best felt in these cities - Telavi and Sighnaghi. The first of them is the capital of the entire Kakheti region. Some of the episodes that were included in the film “Mimino” were even filmed in Telavi. Most of the monasteries and wineries that exist in Kakheti are located near this city. If you don’t plan to stay here overnight, then 1-2 hours is enough to see everything.

Among the attractions worth noting:

• Irakli II Avenue;
• City Market;
• A park;
• A plane tree that is over 800 years old.

At the market you can buy the most delicious churchkhela with hazelnuts and wonderful cheese. Sycamore is one of the most ancient trees in Georgia. Nadikvari Park offers excellent views of the Alazani Valley and beautiful mountains, there is an excellent restaurant there, if you stay overnight in this city, then in the evening there is a special view there.

Sighnaghi is rightly called the city of love. This is the only city in Georgia where a registry office operates around the clock, which will register the marriage of any willing Georgian citizen at any time of the day. An artist named Niko Pirosmani lived here, who gave a million roses to his beloved.

This city is located on a mountain, which is why it is remarkable. The fortress wall that protected the city from attackers for so many centuries. It has survived to this day; it has 28 towers. There are guest houses and a couple of hotels in Sighnaghi, but they need to be booked in advance. Otherwise, not only may there be a lack of free space, but it will also cost much more than the price seen on the website. Online prices are significantly lower, everything is viewed and there is plenty to choose from.

Kakheti – wine-growing region in eastern Georgia. Here is the Alazani Valley and dozens of wineries.

The famous city of love Sighnaghi is also here. And not only him. Below is about what to see in Kakheti in 1-2 days.

Why go? Walk through the vineyards, taste wine, see monasteries.

Rtveli takes place in Kakheti in September – grape harvest holiday. You can participate in creating wine with your own hands and feet.

The collection begins at different times every year. If the summer was hot and dry, then the harvest is harvested in early September; if it was rainy, then from mid-September to early October.

Also in Kakheti there are top hotels in Georgia. Wine spas, massages, horseback riding, helicopter tours and hot air balloon rides – plenty of opportunities for relaxation.

Roads of Kakheti, framed by cypress trees

How to get to Kakheti from Tbilisi

It’s easier to get around Kakheti by car.

The region's attractions are located close to each other, but minibuses are rare and inconvenient.

Either we go by car from Tbilisi, or we come to Telavi (Sighnaghi) by minibus and rent a car with a driver on the spot. For about a day 30$ .

Taxi

Taxi from Tbilisi to Telavi round trip 120 GEL($40). From Tbilisi to Sighnaghi roundtrip also from 120 GEL (40$).

Taxi on the Tbilisi route – monasteries of Alaverdi, Gremi, Nekresi – Sighnaghi – Tbilisi (330 km) for the whole day costs from 165 GEL (55$).

You can order a car with a driver on gotrip How to use the site, I wrote

Minibus

From the station metro Isani You can go to Tbilisi by minibus Telavi (7-8 GEL), Tsnori(town 6 km from Sighnaghi, travel price 6 lari) or Kvareli ( 8-10 GEL).

The minibuses are packed to capacity; they leave as they fill up.

IN Sighnaghi can be reached from the bus station to the station metro Samgori in Tbilisi.

Minibuses to Sighnaghi go from 7.00 to 17.00 every 2 hours, on the way at least 2 hours, price 6 lari. You need to arrive at the station early in order to grab a seat.

Last minibus from Sighnaghi in Tbilisi in 18.00

If you need to get from Sighnaghi to Telavi or vice versa, there is only one minibus per day in the morning; ask for the schedule at the station.

By car

Gombori Pass

Coordinates: 41.866399, 45.280196

The mountain serpentine leads to Kakheti through the Gombori Pass. It is at an altitude of 1626 meters. From the pass there is a beautiful view of the mountains.

The photo is from March, so it’s grey. From May to October it is green and picturesque.

♨ Chateau Mere

Coordinates: 41.92268, 45.40836
Where? 88 km from Tbilisi, 7 km from Telavi

✞ Shuamta

New Shuamta: 41.91357, 45.39098
Old Shuamta: 41.91088, 45.40595
Where? 10 km from Telavi

We drive from Tbilisi through the Gombori pass, before reaching Telavi we turn following the signs to Shuamta.

New Shuamta is a functioning monastery, open from 9.00 to 19.00

Telavi

Coordinates: 41.91837, 45.47518
Where? 95 km from Tbilisi, 60 km from Sighnaghi

Telavi is the capital of the Kakheti region. Several episodes of Mimino were filmed here.

If you don’t plan to spend the night, then a quick tour of the city 1-2 hours enough.

Sights of Telavi:

▫ Batonis-tsikhe fortress, 41.91805, 45.47555

▫ 800 year old plane tree, 41.91661, 45.47852 – a thick tree, one of the oldest in Georgia

▫ Irakli II Avenue– a 600-meter-long street lined with recently restored houses and a couple of cafes. Nice to take a walk.

▫ Telavi Market, 41.92261, 45.47113 – Churchkhela with hazelnuts here is the most delicious in all of Georgia. The cheese is good too.

▫ Nadikvari Park, 41.9138, 45.47919 – noteworthy views of the Alazani Valley and mountains. If you are staying overnight in Telavi, you can go for a walk in Nadikvari in the evening; there is a good restaurant in the park Nadikvari Terrace(cheap, delicious homemade wine, cool view from the terrace).

㋛ Tsinandali

House-Museum of Chavchavadze: 41.89637, 45.56697
Where? 9 km from Telavi

In Tsinandali there is a park and house-museum of Alexander Chavchavadze, a wine storage facility and a tasting room. And the very first winery in the country. Industrial winemaking in Georgia originated here. Nice place.

Operating mode: 10:00-19:00 (in winter until 17:00)

Entrance 2 lari
Park + museum 5 lari
Park + museum + 1 glass of wine 7 lari
Park + museum + Tasting (5 types of wine) 25 lari

㋛ Shumi Factory

Coordinates: 41.90046, 45.5681
Where? 600 m from the Chavchavadze Museum

Next to the Chavchavadze house-museum there is the Shumi plant. A couple of years ago we came here on a full-fledged excursion. Now everything is on stream. You can stop by if you're nearby, but you shouldn't make a special trip.

They offer a free museum tour (5 minutes) and tasting (10-15 minutes). They gave us 4 wines and port wine “Zigu” (French technology, delicious), which is made only in “Shumi”.

After the tasting, they remind you several times that it would be a good idea to go shopping at the factory’s store.

✞ Ikalto

Coordinates: 41.93736, 45.38114
Where? 10 km from Telavi

One of the first monasteries in Georgia, built in the 6th century. Previously, there was an academy where Shota Rustaveli studied.

There are stands with posters around the monastery; you can see how the church was restored.

✞ Alaverdi Cathedral

Alaverdi Monastery in Kakheti

Coordinates: 42.03248, 45.3772
Free, 8.00-18.00, in summer until 19.00
Where? 20 km from Telavi

✞ Gremi Castle

Coordinates: 42.00213, 45.66011
Price: free, museum 5 GEL, 09.00-18.00, day off Monday
Where? 20 km from Telavi

✟ Nekresi Monastery

Coordinates: 41.97213, 45.76771
Free, 10.00-19.00

Where? 35 km from Telavi, 11 km from Kvareli

Time for inspection: 1h 30 min–2 hours if you go on foot
40 minutes-1 hour if you go by bus

Kvareli

Coordinates: 41.94825, 45.81513
Where? 142 km from Tbilisi

The city of Kvareli is also convenient as a base for exploring Kakheti. The infrastructure is there. ☞ Accommodation in Kvareli

Sights of Kvareli:

▫ House of Ilya Chavchavadze, 41.95294, 45.81468 , open from 10.00 to 17.00, entrance 2 lari

▫ Khareba Wine Tunnel, 41.93475, 45.8358 – located on the territory of the Khareba winery. Excursion 7 lari, tasting from 12 lari. You can skip it.

▫ Lake Ilya, 41.95529, 45.79454 – a great place to relax, admission is free, in the summer you can swim in the lake

Factory Corporation Kindzmarauli

Wine Kindzmarauli produced in this area. In the center of Kvareli there is the Kindzmarauli Corporation winery, you can go on a tour to them.

We were there in the spring. We took a free 20-minute tour. Really educational. Tasting 8 GEL per person. The store sells wine.

㋛ Graneli Factory

Coordinates: 41.93686, 45.82996
Where? Kvareli

An operating winery on the outskirts of Kvareli. Sightseeing tour of the production workshop free.

Worth the tasting 20 lari for 12 types of wine.

There are unique varieties that can only be bought on the territory of the Graneli plant.

Sighnaghi

Coordinates: 41.62106, 45.91901
Where? 110 km from Tbilisi, 60 km from Telavi

By time 1-2 hours to explore the city + 1-2 hours on a trip to Bodbe Monastery

Sighnaghi (aka SighnaKhi) is the city of love in Kakheti. A sort of “corner of Italy” in Georgia.

Why love? Firstly, there is a 24-hour registry office here. Secondly, in Sighnaghi the famous artist Niko Pirosmani gave the actress Margarita a million roses, about which Alla Pugacheva sings.

It is notable for its location on the mountain, views of the valley and the fortress wall with 28 towers that has survived to this day. You can stay in Sighnaghi for one night during a trip to Kakheti.

✟ Bodbe Monastery

Coordinates: 41.60656, 45.93339
Where? 2 km from Sighnaghi
Open from 10.00 to 19.00

The Bodbe convent stands on a mountain 2 km from Sighnaghi. Here is the grave of St. Nino (Christian enlightener of Georgia). You can approach the relics. Holy place for Georgians.

The area is absolutely amazing. Pure, millions of flowers, Alazani Valley somewhere below.

Is it possible to come to Sighnaghi by minibus, go on foot to the Bodbe Monastery and return to Tbilisi in the evening? Yes, you can.

✟ Holy spring

Coordinates: 41.609147, 45.937045
Where? 630 meters down the steps from Bodbe Monastery
Open from 10.00 to 17.00

You can go down the steps to the source from the Bodbe Monastery for 15 minutes, climb the same steps 30 minutes.

You can walk down and take a taxi back for 10 lari.

We walked through the forest at 8 am. The source turned out to be locked and there was nowhere to even get water there (there is a fountain nearby, but the water is not very tasty). The font was also closed, so it’s worth coming to this place after 10 a.m.

During working hours, you can swim in the font (the water is icy) and buy a chiton there for 10 lari.

❀ David Gareji

Coordinates: 41.44735, 45.37639

Where? 90 km from Tbilisi, 110 km from Sighnaghi.

How long does it take? Total 5-6 hours(3 hours round trip from Tbilisi or Sighnaghi + 2-3 hours there)

🍇 Get-togethers with locals in the evening on the open veranda of an old house. Wine, dancing, music, delicious food. Perhaps the most vivid impression. To implement this point, you need to get to know Georgians.

If you buy wine home, visit Kakheti before your flight so as not to carry bottles throughout the country. Wine can be bought in any supermarket in Georgia (Tbilisi, Batumi), but in Kakheti there are wines that are produced and sold only here in factories or private wineries.

Read about what else to see in Georgia.

Quality drinks and good people!

Mila Demenkova

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On our trip to Georgia, Kakheti stands apart. And not only because it is the first of the areas we visited. And the first impression is always the brightest. Kakheti is also distinctive, unique for its landscape and winemaking traditions, the Alazani Valley and the Tusheti Mountains.

Kakheti went through a difficult path of historical development: it was part of the Kingdom of Kartli until the 8th century, from the 8th to the 12th centuries. developed as an independent principality from the 12th to the 15th centuries. was part of the Georgian kingdom from the 15th century. until the middle of the 18th century. regained its independence again, in 1762-1801. was included in the Kartli-Kakheti kingdom. In 1801, Kakheti, together with Georgia, became part of the Russian Empire, and since 1991, Georgia has been an independent state.

Kakheti, how to get there:

People usually come to Kakheti either from Tbilisi,

or from Russia, through the village along . Our trip and attractions in the article.

The length of the scenic route from to, passing through the ring road in the Tbilisi region and the Gombori Pass, is 240 kilometers, travel time is just over 4 hours.

Tbilisi - Kakheti.

You can get to Kakheti from the capital of Georgia - Tbilisi by car or minibus. Let's look at an example of how to get to the two main cities of Kakheti.

Tbilisi - Telavi.

A minibus from Tbilisi to and other cities in Kakheti (, Kvareli) departs from the Isani metro station. The distance from Tbilisi to is 95 kilometers, the average travel time is 1 hour 20 minutes. The route is picturesque, the road passes through the Gombori mountain pass, most of it along a serpentine road.

Tbilisi – Sighnaghi.

Telavi.

On the territory of the fortress in the 17-18 centuries. there was a royal residence in which, for example, King Irakli II was born. His equestrian statue is installed next to the fortress.

Ikalto.

Ikalto Monastery was founded in the 6th century. However, the surviving three cathedral buildings and several utility buildings date back to the 8th-19th centuries. and are repeatedly rebuilt and restored objects, representing the architectural style of masters of different eras. In Ikalto you can see the tomb of its founder Zeno of Ikalto, ancient wineries and wine storage tanks. The monastery became famous thanks to the academy located on its territory, of which the poet Shota Rustaveli was a student.

Kakheti is a wine region of Georgia. This is where the country's main vineyards and numerous wineries are concentrated. The best time to visit the Alazani Valley is in the fall, when the harvest is harvested. Cars loaded to the brim with grapes create a festive atmosphere and truly convey the spirit of the wine region.

But if you are planning a trip at another time of the year, then in Kakheti there are no less interesting places: ancient cathedrals, nature reserves with picturesque views, and wineries are open all year round.

How to organize a tour of Kakheti

1. Buy an excursion at a travel agency, for example, in Tbilisi. Tour in the old part of the city. There are more than enough agencies, you can go to a couple of places and choose a suitable offer. In this article, I explained in detail how best to organize it yourself.
2. Buy a tour online. This option is good because you can read the tour program and reviews of the guide in advance. Most popular excursions:

Independent trip to Kakheti

• Come to Telavi or, and find a driver locally who will show you the main attractions of Kakheti. That's exactly what we did. The owners of the guesthouse recommended their neighbor. On the first day the excursion lasted 6 hours, on the second 8. For two days we paid 150 GEL (for the whole car).
• Hitchhiking is very developed in Georgia. You can easily get from point A to point B by hitchhiking. But, in my opinion, this method has tangible disadvantages. As a rule, the monasteries and the most interesting places in Kakheti are located on the hills or in not particularly crowded places. There is little traffic on the roads; it can take a long time to catch a ride. If we saw all the sights of Kakheti in two full days, then to get to each object by hitchhiking it takes more time.
• It’s sad with minibuses and buses in Kakheti. It’s not that they don’t exist, they exist, but they don’t have an exact schedule, they go “according to the mood,” and the route line is very meager. If we traveled exclusively by hitchhiking and public transport, then here I would still recommend finding a car. It's not so expensive, but it's fast and convenient!

Sights of the Alazani Valley

We have been to Kakheti twice. The first time we went on our own for three days, the second time we took a one-day excursion. What can I say - the impressions strongly depend on how the trip is planned: route, guide, duration, etc.

Although there are many attractions in Kakheti, not all are interesting. And if you are unlucky with a guide, then it’s a lost cause. The monasteries are very similar to each other; if the guide has a poor command of history, then a visit to the Georgian shrine is reduced to zero. I highly recommend, first of all, paying attention to the qualifications of a guide.

Alaverdi

Alaverdi (St. George's Cathedral) is an active cathedral dating back to the early 11th century. Today, it is the most revered temple in the region and the second tallest temple in Georgia.

The cathedral was repeatedly destroyed by invaders, so during restoration it was slightly modified. Despite the fact that today we can see Alaverdi not in its original form, wall paintings from the 15th century are still preserved inside the cathedral. Also, many Kakheti kings are buried on the territory of the monastery.

When visiting a Georgian shrine, you should remember the dress code. The head, shoulders and knees must be covered. Moreover, all girls must wear a skirt. If you come in pants, you will be given a loincloth free of charge upon entry. Photography inside the cathedral is strictly prohibited.

I didn't like Alaverdi. The place is touristy, there are a lot of people here. And the history of the cathedral is not as impressive as, for example, that of the Bodbe Monastery.

Ikalto

Ikalto (VI century) is one of the first Orthodox monasteries in Georgia. Architecturally, it is very similar to other Georgian cathedrals. However, in addition to antiquity and centuries-old history, Ikalo is famous for the academy where the famous poet Shota Rustaveli once studied. In the 17th century the academy was burned and the complex closed. The church was restored only in the 19th century, but only ruins remained of the academy.

For some reason Ikalo sank into my soul. Either the place is very powerful, or the guide’s heartfelt story about the birth of Christianity in Georgia made a strong impression.

Old and new Shuamta

In the village of Shuamta, two monasteries have been preserved: Dzveli-Shuamta (old Shuamta) and Akhali Shuamta (new Shuamta). Their architecture is very different, since they were built at different times.

Old Shuamta is a temple of the 5th century, which today is not active. And the atmosphere in it is quite ominous: it’s dark and empty inside, crumbling wall paintings and a few burning candles. We were here twice - in 2015 we could go inside and look around, in 2017 the cathedral was closed for restoration. It is likely that the ancient temple will soon be revealed to us in a new appearance.

New Shuamta is a functioning convent of the 16th century. According to legend, Queen Tina had a dream in which she built an Orthodox church. Years later, this is what happened. While traveling around Georgia, the queen saw a place for construction from a dream. After the construction of the cathedral, Tina took monastic vows and spent the rest of her years in Shuamta, where she is buried.

Almost every excursion to Kakheti includes a visit to these two monasteries. I didn't like it here. Everything is somehow very simple and even a little boring. The visit to Shuamta remains in my memory.

Nekresi

Nekresi is an active monastery of the 4th century, towering over the Alazani Valley. Throughout its existence, Nekresi was repeatedly robbed and captured by Muslims. According to legend, during one of the raids, church ministers threw pig heads at the offenders, thereby scaring them away (according to our guide). Although they write on the Internet that the pigs were simply released into the yard and the Muslims got scared. In any case, now the pig is considered an unspoken amulet of the cathedral and pork shish kebab is prepared here for every holiday.

You cannot approach the monastery with your own transport (or taxi). You need to leave your car in the parking lot and walk 1.5 km. walk up the road. If walking is not for you, then a bus will take you to the top, which runs every 10 - 20 minutes. The fare is 1 lari in both directions.

Of all the attractions in Kakheti, I liked Nekresi the most. The monastery is located high in the mountains and has a stunning view of the Alazani Valley.

The small village of Tsinandali, near Telavi, is famous for its beautiful park and the residence of the Kakheti princes Chavchavadze. Inside the premises, the original interior and some personal belongings of the family have been preserved. Also, at the estate there is a winery, which is considered the oldest in Georgia. Its cellars contain more than 20 thousand bottles. Entrance ticket to the park + house museum - 5 GEL, park only - 2 GEL.

Tsinandali has a beautiful and well-groomed park area and an interesting excursion inside the residence. I've enjoyed my stay. But this is not the main attraction of Kakheti; I recommend visiting Tsinandali after you have seen the more significant places in the region.

Gremi

In the XVI-XVII centuries. Gremi was the capital of the Kakheti kingdom with a castle of the same name, which has survived to this day. In the 16th century The Great Silk Road passed here, which contributed to the growth and development of the city. However, at the beginning of the 17th century. Gremi was destroyed by the troops of the Iranian Shah Abbas I, after which it was never able to recover. In the middle of the 17th century. the capital was moved to Telavi.

Today there is a castle, a temple and an archaeological museum. From the observation deck of the castle (windows on the upper floors) a beautiful view of the Alazani Valley opens. Entrance to the castle + museum costs 2 GEL.

Gremi didn’t impress me, but Dima really liked it here. Probably all because the guide spoke colorfully about the siege and defense of the fortress.

Kvarel wine tunnel

The huge tunnel in Kvareli is the warehouse of the Khareba plant, which stores more than 20 thousand bottles of wine. Its total length is 7.7 km, but the excursion is carried out only on the first 500 m. You can go inside only as part of an excursion group. Keep in mind that the temperature in the tunnel is +14, so take warm clothes with you. If you forgot, no problem, you can take a blanket at the entrance.

The cost of a guided tour is 7 GEL. Excursion + tasting - 15 GEL.

Locals say that the tunnel used to have military significance and was built as a bomb shelter, but plant employees denied this claim. According to them, it was originally planned as a wine warehouse.

If you have already visited Georgian wineries, then a tour of the Khareba winery warehouse may be disappointing. The story about the wine is very superficial; during the tour they praise their company more. And the duration of the tour is only 15 - 20 minutes. Personally, I didn’t like it here; it was much more interesting at the wineries or.

The lake, named after the writer Ilya Chavchavadze, does not stand out as anything special. This is rather not a landmark of the Alazani Valley, but a pleasant recreation area. During the warm season, there are many locals here - swimming, sunbathing, riding bicycles or just walking. A visit to Lake Ilya is often included in the Kakheti tour program. For what? I don’t know, probably because of the restaurant on the shore. The food they cook there is really delicious!

In my opinion, lunch at Lake Elijah is a great place to take a break while visiting monasteries and wineries. It was in this restaurant that we ate the most delicious kebab in Georgia. Prices, +/-, the same as in Tbilisi.

Ujarma)

It’s worth going to Ujarma only if you have a good guide with you who knows the history. A trip to the fortress on your own does not make any sense - there are a few ruins overgrown with greenery, and that’s all! We came to Ujarma with a guide, but he was, to put it mildly, “not very good,” so the attraction did not make the proper impression. In addition, this is one of the few places in the Alazani Valley where they ask for money for entry. Ticket price is 2 GEL.

Bodbe Monastery

Bodbe Monastery is one of the most significant shrines in Georgia. This cathedral houses the relics of St. Nino, thanks to whom Christianity spread throughout the country. This is a very strong and sacred place; thousands of pilgrims from the Orthodox world come here every year.

Not far from the church (descent 3 km) there is a holy spring where you can swim. According to local stories, it has healing powers and cures ailments. But we didn’t have time to get there, since we arrived in Bodbe shortly before the complex closed. Opening hours: from 10:00 to 19:00