What do the Portuguese call the city of Porto? Why is the city of Porto called the pearl of Portugal? What's up with the weather
Porto is a city of port wine and football, a city of high arched bridges and noisy coastal bars, a city of unsightly and dirty streets, the city that gave its name to Portugal. So much has been written about Porto that trying to tell something new is a thankless task. But I’ll still try to tell and show.
The city is located north of on the right bank of the Douro River, which stretches almost 900 kilometers across the entire Iberian Peninsula.
The history of the city goes back to the Romans; it was from those times that Porto began to develop, first as a port and then as an industrial city. Moreover, over the past two millennia it has not lost any of its port charm, but more on that below...
Porto is the second largest city in Portugal and is often called the northern capital.
One of the most recognizable symbols of the city is the Ponte de Don Luis, built at the end of the 19th century by Théophile Seyrig, a student of that same Gustave Eiffel. The bridge connects the two banks of the Douro River. The bridge is two-level: on the upper level at a height of 45 meters there is a metro line, while the lower tier, located directly above the water, is intended for cars.
But the most famous symbol of Porto is, of course, the famous fortified wine - port.
Only wine produced on the banks of the Douro River can be called port. This provision is enshrined in the legislative acts of Portugal and the European Union. So the Soviet “Three Axes” and other similar surrogate liquids, of course, not only have nothing to do with the noble sweet drink, but also borrowed its name completely illegally.
By the way, contrary to the opinion of the majority, port wine is not produced in Porto - the world-famous cellars in which oak barrels of wine are aged are located on the opposite bank from Porto - in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia.
Previously, in order not to disturb the transport of wine along the rough Portuguese roads, it was transported from the vineyards to the cellars in barrels on flat-bottomed cargo boats with a square sail. In memory of those times, today you can see many moored boats, just opposite the cellars. Some of the boats have been converted into restaurants, at the tables of which you can endlessly sit and enjoy the fresh wind from the Atlantic accompanied by the pleasant sweet notes of fortified wine sparkling in a glass.
A few words about transport. In Porto, as well as in, there are old, rattling trams.
There is also more modern transport here. For example, the city metro is more like a tram.
A funicular line is laid along the old fortress wall from the Douro bank to the top.
The fortress wall also appeared here not by chance - at the very beginning of the reconquista, Porto occupied a border position. The border between Muslim lands and the newly autonomous Portuguese county ran along the Douro River.
The funicular runs quite rarely - the operator waits until the cabin is filled to capacity with people, like a jar of sprats.
And, probably, the most interesting form of urban transport is the cable car, which connects the area next to the Ponte de Don Luis bridge and the embankment of the Douro River next to the wine cellars.
Although, of course, this is no longer Porto, but Vila Nova de Gaia, but it is still very interesting.
And it’s interesting because from this cable car, in my opinion, the best view of the historical part of Porto opens.
The bishop's palace rises monumentally above the densely clustered residential buildings.
Next to it on the hillside is the ancient district of Bairro da Se - it is the poorest and at the same time the most picturesque quarter of Porto.
The embankment is lined with many small open-air restaurants that seem to be filled with drunken fun around the clock.
In the meantime, it's time to look at Porto from above. The best place for this is the observation tower of the Clérigos Church.
Its bell tower is the tallest in Portugal. For a long time it was a landmark for ships arriving from the Atlantic.
A narrow staircase of 225 steps leads upstairs.
Let's take a breath at one of the sites... We have only reached the roof level so far.
Well, here we are at the top.
We look at Porto.
We see red roofs descending in ledges to the banks of the Douro. We see Vila Nova de Gaia located on the far shore. We see wine cellars occupying almost the entire opposite bank of the river.
We see neat new roofs.
We see that there are picturesque ruins right in the center of Porto.
We see that the slopes of the hills on which Porto is located are quite steep, and sometimes you need to sweat a lot to climb the many steps.
We see modern blocks rising in the distance.
We see that huge parks and squares covered with green tree crowns stretch west all the way to the Atlantic.
All. We've seen enough of Porto from above. We continue to walk the streets.
Please note that entire facades of houses can be decorated here with blue tiles.
Let's feel the atmosphere of the Bairro da Se quarter, over which the bell tower of the Clérigos Church, which we visited a little earlier, rises like a mighty phallus.
The houses here are tall and the streets are narrow and dirty. It’s stuffy between the houses, the air seems to have frozen, having absorbed many aromas, ranging from the smells of cheap food coming from nowhere to the outright stench, so familiar from our native St. Petersburg pissed elevators. The feeling that you suddenly find yourself in a poor Asian country from a civilized European country.
Laundry is hung on the streets. From time to time you come across very dubious personalities whom you really wouldn’t want to meet on a dark street under the cover of darkness.
In general, it’s a real port city. For a greater ambiance, the only things missing are drunken sea wolves and cheap port prostitutes. Although, maybe I just didn’t look well?
I look more closely and begin to understand that the city is amazing!
The ancient city, which gave its name to the whole country, is incredibly beautiful and attractive. You can wander for a long time through the labyrinths of narrow streets and look at the colorful houses that resemble toy houses that have been preserved from past eras. Guests of this colorful pearl of Portugal feel as if time has stopped here. The city, which has seen a lot in its lifetime, only gets better every year.
A little history
The first mentions of Porto date back to the 5th century. Roman troops founded a port, which they called Portus Cale (Porto Cale). The Moors, who occupied the territory, destroyed all the buildings erected by the soldiers. The year 982 is marked by the fact that the settlement becomes Christian, and by order of the Duke of Burgundy, a majestic cathedral is built.
The city was officially founded in 1123, after which it flourished and became an important economic center of the country. The large port is the main trading hub of all of Europe. Even in ancient times, it was famous for its delicious wine - port, which became the iconic drink of the state.
The quaint city of Porto, which has preserved many historical monuments that silently tell the story of its rich history, is the center of the district and municipality of the same name. Located 270 kilometers from Lisbon, it is full of attractions that are protected by UNESCO.
When is the best time to come to Porto?
The weather in the city is determined by the Gulf Stream - the warm current of the Atlantic. In winter, the average temperature is 15 degrees, and in summer the air warms up to 25, and only a light breeze can bring coolness. The ancient city of Porto receives the largest number of travelers from June to September, when the weather is favorable for swimming in the sea.
In February, the city hosts a fun and noisy carnival, so it’s worth booking tickets for this month in advance. And lovers of theatrical performances rush here in September, when the best troupes in the world, including from Russia, come on tour.
City-museum
Tourists love to walk along the narrow streets and enjoy the spirit of freedom that permeates charming Porto (Portugal). Detailed information about the beautiful town will allow everyone to navigate it well, so it is recommended to purchase a map of the cultural center of the country. Guests feel as if a beautiful ship, consisting of ancient houses located in the rocks, proudly floats out of the turquoise water.
The cozy city, where modern buildings harmoniously combine with ancient ones, is full of unique attractions that evoke a sense of admiration among tourists. Medieval buildings, looking mysterious in the sunset rays, fascinate with their mystical beauty. The unique city of Porto (Portugal), with its varied architecture, is more reminiscent of an ethnographic museum than an ordinary settlement.
Historical Center
Sprawling on the hills near the mouth of the Douro River, which has fed vines for many centuries, tourists are delighted by the charming Porto at first sight. The city center, perfectly preserved to this day, is very compact and is best explored by wandering along the cobblestone streets, which often turn into steep stairs. It is recommended to start your acquaintance with the birthplace of first-class port wine from a lively place filled with a special atmosphere.
City Cathedral
The Sé Cathedral, of an unusual leaden-gray hue, is located at the very top of the hill and is visible from anywhere in the city. Built not only as a church, but also as a fortress, it was rebuilt several times and lost the features of a single architectural style. The appearance of the impregnable religious landmark is harsh and at the same time beautiful. The main decoration of the cathedral is the expensive altar made of pure silver. The Romanesque rose on the facade, the covered Baroque gallery, the Gothic courtyard, and the gloomy interior make an indelible impression on visitors to the fortress-sanctuary.
In June, the city of Porto (Portugal) attracts a huge number of parishioners who come from different parts of the country for the feast of St. Antonio.
Palacio da Episcopale
Next to the cathedral is the Bishop's Palace, which stands out among other magnificent buildings with its 60-meter facade. Proudly rising above the low buildings, the historical landmark was rebuilt several times. Such outstanding dimensions reflect the role of the bishop during the Middle Ages. The modern appearance of the luxurious building, built in the Baroque style, is the result of an 18th-century reconstruction carried out by the chief architect of Portugal, Nasoni.
The architect of Italian origin left behind many great monuments, including the museum of the Republican poet Guerra Junqueiro, located not far from the cathedral.
Exchange Palace
Palácio da Bolsa is considered the main pearl of the Old Town. Two centuries ago it was the residence of the city's commercial elite, and now the building houses a museum with a collection of paintings and sculptures. Heads of state arriving in the city of Porto on an official visit meet in one of the halls of the palace.
Rua Santa Catarina
The main pedestrian street, Rua de Santa Catarina, which is over a kilometer long, is home to a huge number of fashion boutiques, luxurious restaurants and beautiful Art Nouveau buildings. The shopping heart of the city is one of Porto's main attractions. The bustling street next to the train station comes to a standstill on Sunday as all the shops are closed. It is at this time that you can see the unique facades of ancient buildings of past eras.
Bairro da Se
A walk around Porto is not complete without visiting the poorest quarter of the city. The colorful Bairro da Se with its intricate labyrinth of small streets is of particular interest to tourists. Gloomy alleys reminiscent of walk-through courtyards, laundry hung on colorful balconies, crowded colorful houses seem to transport guests several centuries ago. The poor people of the area have always lived by the port, and when in the 60s of the last century it was moved to the open ocean, their life, established over the years, began to decline. However, Bairro da Se recently received the status of a protected zone, which will help renovate the old houses of the poor. There is a certain magic in these dilapidated buildings, never restored, and rickety wooden shutters, riddled with cracks.
Ribeira
The sights of the vibrant city of Porto (Portugal) are so diverse and numerous that it is impossible to explore them even in a week. However, one cannot help but plunge into the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, which hovers in the colorful Ribeira district. It is noisy here from morning to late evening, and numerous cozy taverns with tables on the parapet welcome cheerful visitors. The promenade, located on the banks of the Douro, consists of gallery streets, courtyards, and coffee terraces. Despite the fact that this is a residential area, it looks like a real open-air museum.
Multi-colored multi-storey buildings, some of which have already undergone restoration, are located so close to each other that their balconies touch. The facades of the buildings are lined with colored azulejo tiles, and the ancient walls appear to be decorated with shiny stone scales. Nighttime entertainment brings time-honored structures to life, while small ships moored along the waterfront add character to the area.
Ponte de D. Luis
In the ancient coastal area, the famous Luis I Bridge connects the city of Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia, from where you can admire a stunning panorama of the ancient capital of Portugal. The steel arch structure, which is part of the historical center, is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The beautiful bridge, consisting of two spans, was designed by a student of the famous Eiffel. The upper one has a metro line, and the lower one is intended for motorists and pedestrians.
Museu Romantico
In the house where King Carlo Alberto lived, the curious Romantic Museum was founded. After the death of the royal person, the ruler’s personal belongings are stored on the upper floors, and the first floor houses the Port Wine Institute (Solar Vinho do Porto), where visitors can taste more than 150 brands of fine wine.
What else to visit in the city?
The aristocratic cafe Majestic is an unusual establishment that tells the modern history of the port city. Once upon a time, public figures and the country's creative elite gathered here, but now the local landmark is adored for its luxury and unique atmosphere.
Porto, which leaves no one indifferent, whose sights tell a story of a long history, will allow every guest to ride in an ancient tram, lined with wood, and enjoy the view of the Atlantic Ocean from the window.
Of course, after visiting the homeland of port wine, you definitely need to visit the distilleries, most of which are located near the Ribeira quarter. On excursions, visitors will learn the intricacies of port production, see huge wine barrels and taste the best varieties of port wine.
Located in the city center, the Livraria bookstore will appeal even to those who don’t really like to read. The unusual interior with amazing stained glass windows, wooden steps, and glass shelves delights tourists who arrive in the fantastically beautiful city of Porto. The country of Portugal recently became famous throughout the world after the statement of the writer D. Rowling that it was the Livraria bookshop that became the prototype of the Hogwarts wizarding school. And now the numerous visitors who adore Mr. Potter are charged an entrance fee, but the flow of tourists does not dry out.
This fabulous city, where you want to return again, fascinates with its unique beauty. Hospitable Porto, where you need to walk so as not to miss a single architectural monument, will delight gourmets, shopaholics, connoisseurs of good wine, theatergoers and everyone who loves a fun and educational vacation.
Porto, which gives the country its name (and the drink port), is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon.
This is a very old city, founded in the 12th century. it is located 270 km north of Lisbon. It is called the northern capital of Portugal.
The central part of Porto is the main attraction. The city is ancient, unusual and very interesting. Of course, the city has a lot of “official” attractions, many beautiful churches, a very interesting railway station, a stunning embankment, and, of course, wine cellars. I'll show you all this later, but today we'll just walk around the city.
The historical center of Porto is located on the right bank of the Douro River, a few kilometers from where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. The city center has been declared a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
In the historical center of the city there is a cathedral from the 13th century. - Church of San Francisco (St. Francis). One of Porto's most striking landmarks is the baroque Clérigos Tower, the tallest in Portugal at 76 meters or 225 steps. Construction under the direction of the Italian architect Niccolo Nasoni began in 1754 and was completed in 1763. Among modern buildings, the House of Music stands out for its unusual shape.
Another very important attraction of Porto are its bridges.
There are many bridges across the Douro, connecting Porto with the satellite town of Vila Nova de Gaia. Some of them are unique technological solutions for their time. For example, the Ponte de Dona Maria Pia railway bridge, built in 1876-1877 according to the design of Gustave Eiffel, was one of the first projects that brought its author worldwide fame. Later, the same technological solutions were used by Eiffel in the construction of the Statue of Liberty (1884-1886) and the Eiffel Tower (1889). Another unique structure for its time was the two-level metal bridge Ponte de Don Luis, built in 1881-1886 according to the design of Eiffel’s student and companion Théophile Seyrig.
Built according to the design of Gustave Eiffel's student and companion Théophile Seyrig in 1886. Named after King Luis I. 
Ponte de Don Luis is a unique symbol of the city of Porto. His image can often be found on the labels of local port wine.
The bridge has a length of 385.25 m and weighs 3045 tons, while the length of the arched span is 172 m and its height is 44.6 m. 
Directly ahead is the Kliregush Tower. 
In front of us is the Church of Do Carmo. This very nice temple in the architectural spirit of classicism and baroque was erected in the mid-18th century according to the design of the architect José Fgueiredo Seicas. The stone facade is decorated with sculptures of the prophets Elijah and Elisha and statues of the four evangelists by the Italian Baroque master Nicolau Nasoni. Another remarkable part of the decor is a huge mosaic canvas in soft blue, depicting scenes from the founding of the Carmelite Order. 
Porto was the first city on the Iberian Peninsula to have tram traffic. These little trams run in Porto and Lisbon. Others simply won’t turn around on the narrow streets of cities. 
The Clérigos Church was built by the architect Nicola Nasoni between 1732 and 1750. The church was built specifically for the brotherhood of Clerics. Over time, the architect himself joined the Brotherhood, and after his death he rests in the church crypt.
The Clérigos Tower is located behind this church, but is not included in the frame from this angle. 
Church and Tower of Clérigos. 
The monument to Pedro IV, the first king of Brazil and Portugal, is located in Liberty Square in the city center. 
Monument to the Newspaper Boy 
The majestic and beautiful Sae Cathedral in Porto dominates the city. This is the oldest cathedral in Porto, built in the Romanesque style.
The cathedral was built as a fortress and the entire city was built around it.
The most valuable thing in the cathedral is its altar, for which 800 kg of silver were used. A wonderful courtyard with azulejos, a large square with a magnificent observation deck where there are viewing binoculars to admire the red roofs of the houses and the Douro River.
An interesting feature of postal addresses in Porto: they do not have house numbers. Street names, too, as a rule, are not written on houses - only at the beginning and end of the street. And it happens that just at the beginning of the street there is a column with a sign on which its name is written. All. It is not mentioned anywhere else.
Along the street, it is not the houses that are numbered, but the front doors - the entrance doors. Continuous numbering along the entire street. You can see it in this photo - the numbers are above the doors. Then the address will read, for example: second floor, 1st apartment to the right.
And nothing, they find it.
There was a case. We took a taxi and went to look at the ocean (it is 7 km from the city), namely, at sunset - how beautiful the sun sinks into the sea. We let the taxi go, admired the sunset, and then decided to walk to the hotel and got lost. When we tried to find our way on the map, it turned out that this was completely impossible. We decided that it would be better for us to look not for our current location, but immediately for our hotel. Again, a bummer - the Portuguese, very friendly people, waving their arms, enthusiastically told us the way, but following the narration in Portuguese and taking advice, as it turned out, was also unrealistic. Meanwhile, things were moving towards evening, even towards night, and the question of returning home became acute. It’s impossible to just catch a taxi; you have to call it to the specified address. We saw a ballet school and stopped by to ask them to call us a taxi to their address (at least they know it).
It ended with one of the ballerinas taking us to the hotel in her car. Looking out the car window at the road, we realized that we would never have gotten there on our own, and upon arrival at the hotel there were no happier people than us. 
A characteristic feature of Portuguese architecture is the cladding of buildings with tiles. This is not only beautiful, but also very useful - in summer, tiles protect houses from heat, and in the off-season - from dampness. Houses in Portugal most often do not have heating, so in all seasons, clothes are dried outside. 
In this photo we see the exit to the Douro River embankment. I’ll show it in another post, and at the same time we’ll take a boat ride on it. 
On the left is the Cathedral of St. Francis, on the right is the Bolsa Palace. The Bolsa Palace is the Stock Exchange and also the place where you can come to admire the palace interiors created by local architect Joaquim da Costa Lima Juniordla in the mid-19th century for ordinary merchants. Now it is a kind of museum, where exhibits: various sculptures, frescoes, paintings, furniture, dishes and others are specially selected and fit into the interiors of the halls. Thus, the Arab Hall with golden arabesques, the Court of Nations under an octagonal glass dome, the Tribunal Hall, the Assembly Hall, the Golden Hall and the staircase made of granite and marble look the most beautiful. Copied from the Internet, because we didn’t go inside. Well, maybe one of the readers will be interested and visit.
Porto. City `s history.
Porto, the second largest city in Portugal with 500 thousand inhabitants, gave its name not only to port wine, but to the entire country. Once upon a time, on the left bank of the Douro there was a Roman settlement called Portus (Latin for “harbour”), and on the right bank was Calais (Greek “kalos” - beautiful). Based on the names of these villages, the Moors began to call the country between the Douro and Minho Portucale. After the expulsion of the Arabs in the 11th century, the Christian county of Portucalia arose here, which later became the kingdom of Portugal.
Porto has always lived by trade. In 1050, it became the most important economic center in the north of the country; in the 13th and 14th centuries it maintained maritime trade relations with England, Flanders and the cities of the Hanseatic League.
Close relations with England, on whose support the king counted in the fight against hostile Castile, were strengthened by the Treaty of Windsor in 1386 and the marriage of King John I to the Englishwoman Philippa de Lencastre, which took place in the cathedral in Porto. In 1394, their son was born in Porto, who later became Henry the Navigator.
English merchants who traded in colonial goods such as tobacco and sugar have long felt at home in Porto. Even today, British influence remains in the city, the roots of which are in the notorious enslaving treaty with England in 1703. This treaty opened the English market to Portuguese wines and provided English merchants with a monopoly position in the sale of port wine. Until now, some large port wine producing companies bear English names.
In contrast to Lisbon, the tone in Porto has always been set by the city's trading elite. From the early Middle Ages until the 17th century, there was a law prohibiting aristocrats from building palaces here and generally staying in the city for more than three days. Even the king did not have his own residence in Porto and lived as a guest in the Bishop's Palace. The city managed to win many civil liberties from the bishop, but resistance to the Lisbon authorities was, of course, unsuccessful. For example, a protest against a wine trading company founded by the Marquis de Pombal was suppressed by force, and Governor General Joao de Almada was sent to Porto. However, he himself and his son Francisco did a lot of good for the city. It is to them that Porto owes the success of the improvement and expansion of the city in the second half of the 18th century.
In the 19th century, Porto was a stronghold of liberal forces whose activities led to the overthrow of the monarchy. The first constitution was proclaimed here in 1822. The first, albeit unsuccessful, uprising of the Republicans took place in Porto. Salazar's dictatorial regime was not popular in this city from the very beginning.
Now Porto is an industrial center, and its harbor, Leixões, is Portugal's second largest port. The townspeople are distinguished by their hard work and unpretentiousness. Every Portuguese knows the saying: “They party in Lisbon, work in Porto, study in Coimbra, and pray in Braga.”
“What is the most important thing when traveling?See, understand, enjoy, love!
Colors, shapes, aromas, tastes add up
into vivid pictures in memory, so that later we
could look at them all my life"
About the country, its history and people
Portugal is one of the oldest countries in Europe with a rich history. Portugal is a charming country that can be called a quiet European province, where pristine nature serenely coexists with a developed tourist infrastructure, and respect for national customs coexists peacefully with pan-European traditions.
The country of great seafarers, Portugal is located in the western part of the Iberian Peninsula. In the south and west it is washed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and on land it borders with Spain. Portugal includes the Azores Islands, located in the Atlantic Ocean approximately 1,450 km west of Lisbon, and the island of Madeira, 970 km southwest of Lisbon, which are autonomous regions of Portugal. The area of the country including the islands is 92.39 thousand square meters. km.
The name of the country comes from the name of the Roman settlement Portus Cale at the mouth of the Douro River. In 1139, Portugal became a kingdom independent from Spain. At that time it occupied only the northern third of its modern territory. In 1249, the last Muslim ruler in the south of the country was expelled, and since then its borders have changed little. The era of conquest began in the 15th century, when Portuguese maritime explorers such as Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan traveled around the world, making great geographical discoveries. By the 16th century, the territories they discovered formed a huge empire that stretched from the coast of Brazil to Africa and Asia. It was during this era that the Portuguese economy reached its greatest prosperity.
In 1910, the monarchy was overthrown in Portugal, and in 1974, a democratically minded military junta put an end to the dictatorial regime that had existed since 1926. Portugal is one of the few European countries that were not occupied by Nazi troops during the Second World War.
The constitution adopted in 1976 established Portugal as a Parliamentary Republic with direct elections and universal adult suffrage.
By transferring the last of its overseas territories, Macao, which it had held since 1680, to Chinese rule in 1999, Portugal brought an end to a long and sometimes turbulent colonial era in its history.
Events in Portuguese history had a huge impact on the culture of the country and introduced features of Moorish and Oriental styles into architecture and art. Traditional folk dances and chants, especially the lyrical fado, remain significant to this day, which can be seen and heard right on the streets. According to one version, the name fado goes back to the Latin word fatum, which means fate. The melodies of the songs harmoniously combine Moorish, African and Brazilian tunes; all the songs run through the theme of loneliness, melancholy and premonition of a sad fate, but this does not mean that music of this type is only suitable for melancholic people. The ability to glorify sadness and turn it into an object of admiration is one of the national traits of the Portuguese, and it is not without reason that for several centuries almost every family in this country was waiting for sons and husbands to set off to conquer the sea, and the journey could end in the most unpredictable way.
The country's population is mononational, 99% of the 10.8 million population are Portuguese. Many peoples have long settled on the Iberian Peninsula. The most ancient inhabitants - the Iberians - were short and dark-skinned. Over the centuries, the appearance of the Portuguese was formed under the influence of the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, as well as Germanic tribes (Visigoths and Alamanni).
Portugal is a monolingual country. The official language is Portuguese. It is spoken by more than 200 million people worldwide on three continents: Eurasia, Africa and South America. This language is similar to Spanish, since both belong to the Iberian-Romance subgroup of the Romance group of languages, however, despite the similar grammatical structure, there are significant differences in pronunciation between them. The formation of the language was greatly influenced by the Germanic tribes and Arabs (Moors), from whom the Portuguese language borrowed many words, as well as contacts of travelers, discoverers and merchants with Asian peoples.
National characteristics: there is no need to question the historical greatness of the country - the Portuguese are proud of their past, especially against the backdrop of the modest place that the country occupies today. The Portuguese are very sensitive to comparisons with the Spaniards, despite the similarity of languages, characters and national cultures. Bullfighting is also popular here, but, unlike Spanish bullfighting, where the bull is killed, in Portuguese the animal is subdued by a team of unarmed fighters (forcados).
In this country, the percentage of the rural population is one of the highest in Western Europe, many foreigners work in its factories, construction sites and fields, including from Ukraine. Average annual per capita income: USD 22,500 (World Bank data, 2011). Average life expectancy is approaching 80 years. As in other countries, in Portugal women live longer, almost 82 years, but men do not yet reach 76. The retirement age is 65 years, and the actual retirement age is 61-62 years.
Portugal is a country of great sea voyages, grandiose geographical discoveries and tart port wine. The mild climate, fresh forest and meadow aromas, light ocean breezes and endless expanses of the Atlantic, unique architecture in the Manueline style and strong coffee... All this deserves to get to know this interesting country better.
Zintroduction to Porto
They say about the cities of Portugal: they pray in Braga, they work in Porto, they party in Lisbon. My acquaintance with Portugal began in Porto. Porto, the second most populous city in Portugal with a population of 240 thousand inhabitants, gave its name not only to port wine, but to the entire country. The historical center of Porto is located on the right bank of the Douro River, a few kilometers from where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. The city center has been declared a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
Porto is well known for its entrepreneurial spirit, distinctive culture and local cuisine. The city is often called the northern capital of Portugal. The largest university in Portugal is located in Porto (about 29 thousand students).
One of Porto's most striking landmarks is the Clérigos Tower, the tallest in Portugal at 76 meters or 225 steps. The Baroque church was built for the brotherhood of clerics ("Clérigos") by the architect Nicola Nasoni according to a Roman design. Its construction began in 1732 and was completed in 1750 with the construction of a monumental staircase. On July 28, 1748, despite the fact that the building was not yet completely finished, the church was opened for worship. Torre dos Clérigos has become a symbol of the city of Porto. It has been a National Monument since 1910.
The city is famous for the production of various brands of port wine. We visit one of the ancient “port wine houses” - Galem, and get acquainted with the history and features of the production of this popular drink. And, of course, we taste some varieties, and those who wish can purchase wines that suit their taste. Having warmed up our appetite with the wines we tasted, we begin our acquaintance with Portuguese cuisine in one of the restaurants, where we happily consume the national fish dish called “bacalau”.
Having refreshed ourselves with bacalau and tasted some port wines, we enjoyed a walk along the embankment of the Douro River, where such nice boats float.
There are four bridges across the Douro River, connecting the historical part of the city with Vila Nova di Gaia, a small neighboring town where the repository of world-famous port wine is located. One of the bridges (Louis the First) was built according to the design of Gustav Eiffel: a two-tier structure of impressive size seems openwork and light.
The Se Cathedral was built at the highest point of the old city. Built in the 12th century on a granite rock, it originally served as a fortress. Later it was rebuilt, but has retained its harsh appearance to this day. The inside of the cathedral is not very interesting. Decor lovers will be impressed by the luxurious silver altar, the construction of which took 800 kg of silver, and the patio, lined with the famous Portuguese azulejo tiles.
From Cathedral Square there is a beautiful view of the city.
From the cathedral to the river, the descent goes through the poorest area of Porto. The area of fashionable villas is located by the ocean. You can get here on the existing museum tram, which has not changed since 1930. It's called the Electric Machine Museum. However, each of Porto's trams can serve as an exhibit: the inside of the vehicle is upholstered in wood, and the driver drives it while standing, for the simple reason that there is no seat for it. When the tram reaches the final destination of the route, the driver moves from the head to the tail, where there is also a cabin, and drives his car in the “reverse course”: the rails in Porto end in a dead end. The most scenic route runs along the ocean shore. From the windows of noisy and old trams you can see fashionable villas, chosen by wealthy people from all over Europe.
Porto, like other Portuguese cities, is distinguished not only by its unique architecture, but also by the fact that many houses are faced with multi-colored tiles.
From the early Middle Ages until the 17th century, there was a law that prohibited the aristocracy not only from building, but also from staying in the city for more than three days. Even the king did not have his residence in Porto. He stayed in the Episcopal Palace, built by Nicolo Nazzoni. It is a masterpiece of 18th century Portuguese baroque architecture. The port city is located entirely on the hills, it has many funny houses and streets.
It was also interesting to visit the store and a kind of book museum, Livraria Lell - the oldest in Portugal and one of the most incredibly beautiful bookstores in the whole world. An extraordinary, simply fabulous interior, which is located on two floors of the store. Spectacular and massive decor of the walls and ceiling, everything is made of noble wood using original and unusual carvings in combination with the amazingly curved lines of the red staircase that leads to the second floor. The magnificent ceiling made of expensive stained glass looks no less impressive. The bookstore is located a five-minute walk from the city center.
This pretty fountain also caught our attention.
It is impossible not to mention a visit to the São Bento train station. In addition to its direct purpose, the Sao Bento station is interesting for its painting walls, lined with azulejos tiles in white and blue tones. The largest of them is made of 20 thousand tiles and decorates the waiting room. This panel completely occupies one of its walls. The painting depicts episodes from the history of railways, as well as important moments in the history of Portugal.
When leaving Porto, behind the fortress walls, my first meeting with the Atlantic Ocean took place. I go knee-deep into the ocean, the water is quite cool, but you can still take a dip.
Two days in Lisbon
Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and the largest city in the country. It is home to 570 thousand people. It is located on the right bank of the Tagus River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Its history goes back about 20 centuries. Lisbon was built on seven hills, like Rome and Moscow. Just like Moscow, Lisbon is patronized by St. George the Victorious. The city became the capital of the state in 1147 after liberation from Arab colonization. Lisbon owes this to the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques. The main city of the country was founded by the Phoenicians as a stop at the intersection of sea routes and was named Alis Ubbo - blessed bay. The city was ruled by the Roman Empire, Moors, and Spaniards.
We begin our acquaintance with the center of Lisbon - one of the main attractions. In the 18th century, bullfights and public executions took place here. We explore the Edward VII Park and the monument to the Marquis de Pombal. This is a large green meadow with neatly trimmed bushes of regular geometric shape.
Lisbon is a modern European city located on 15 hills. Walking along it you have to constantly go up and down the hills. We climb one of the hills, where, with the help of a guide, we get acquainted with the Moorish fortress of San Jorge. Once upon a time, Portuguese kings lived here, but now all that remains of the castle is a shell with pine groves inside. But this is the highest point in Lisbon and the views from here are appropriate. From the fortress walls you can see a strange structure - openwork frames of arches pointing into the sky. To take in views of the Tagus River and Lisbon's ancient Alfama district, we walked along the esplanade and climbed the ramparts of the old fortress. The fortress of San Jorge (St. George) has been a fortification spanning the mouth of the Tagus River since ancient times. In 1147, King Alfonso Henriques converted the fortress into a royal residence. In 1511, King Manuel I built himself a palace outside the fortress, and here he placed an armory and a prison. During the earthquake of 1755, the fortress was very badly damaged and only in 1938, under Salazar, the ruins were restored, and only a few details remained, reminiscent of the originally Moorish Alcasava, later the royal residence, where Vasco da Gama celebrated the success of his trip to India with pomp. The fortress walls have been restored and you can now walk along them around the ancient quarter of Santa Cruz. In the fortress towers there are various exhibitions telling about the history of the fortress and the entire city. The observation decks offer magnificent views of Lisbon.
Picturesque streets with houses covered with painted tiles run away from the fortress in different directions. Benches are carefully placed in the middle of each climb. Most of the streets lead to Alfama - the oldest quarter of Lisbon, which, being built on rocky ground, survived the earthquake without much damage. This was once the center of a Roman city and later the center of a Moorish city. Alfama was also inhabited by Jews until their expulsion in the 16th century. There is nothing there that reminds you of a capital city: Alfama is more like a fishing village, where housewives clean fish right on the street and sew on antediluvian sewing machines, and clotheslines are tied to orange trees growing right on the steps. When going for a walk in Alfama, be prepared for the fact that you will most likely get lost - this intricacy of streets practically defies logic.
We go down from the castle on a retro tram running along route No. 28, which is reminiscent of transport from the beginning of the last century, and go on a tour of the city center. We pay tribute to the way our tram dashingly climbs hills and rushes along narrow winding streets with a frightening rattle. At one point during the trip, we easily reach the wall of the neighboring house with our hands.
We get off at the bus stop and an amazing view of the capital opens up in front of us. In Lisbon, such viewing terraces are called miradoros. We found ourselves on the best of them - Miradouro de Santa Luzia. We approach the fence and freeze in admiration. It’s not for nothing that Lisbon is called the “White City”: in front of us is a whole block of toy-like, sun-drenched snow-white houses with orange tiled roofs.
The city has many interesting buildings of unusual architecture.
We go down to Commerce Square, which is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Portugal. Before the earthquake, there was a royal palace built here in 1511 by Manuel I. In its center, on a high plinth, stands an equestrian statue of the reformer king José I, whose minister was the Marquis de Pombal. The majestic Arc de Triomphe, decorated with bas-reliefs and statues of famous people and connecting the square with Augusta Street, was completed in the 19th century. It was then that the square received its current name “Commerce Square” due to its proximity to the port, which is the main source of trade for the city. From here you have a magnificent view of the Tagus River, which you can reach down the stairs. On the southern side of the square, two square towers rise, and on three sides the square is framed by the buildings of ministries and banks.
The next point of our journey is the Belem region. Where the Tagus flows into the ocean, stands the Belem (that is, Bethlehem) watchtower, and a little closer to land rises the Jeronimos Monastery - a wonderful example of the main national style - Manueline, that is, Gothic mixed with Arabic script, sea knots and astrolabes. Two world-famous Portuguese are also buried here - Vasco da Gama (who set sail from the Belem Tower, going in search of an alternative route to India) and Luis Camões. From Camões, however, only one tomb remained; the poet himself died of the plague and was buried in some lost common grave.
Nearby is the coffee shop Casa dos Pastéis de Belém, which makes the best sweets in the city, and perhaps in the country.
Next to the monastery is the Tower of Bethlehem (Torre de Belem), built in the 16th century, a symbol of Lisbon. This is one of the best examples of the Manueline style; the tower is under UNESCO protection. It is decorated with lanterns, openwork Venetian balconies, stone carvings, a statue of the Madonna of the Mariners under a huge canopy and a sculpture of a rhinoceros. From the inside, the tower looks quite gloomy - there used to be a prison here. The quadrangular Tower of Belém is known as a monument to the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The tower, built in 1515-1520 and designed in the Manueline style, is a classic symbol of all of Portugal. This tower was erected in honor of the glorious military and maritime past of Portugal and rises on the spot where caravels once set off for distant lands.
Not far from the Tower on the embankment of the Tagus River towards the 25th of April Bridge is the Monument to the Mariners.
What is Lisbon remembered for, besides its historical attractions? First of all, its original architecture, which combines different styles. We fell in love with its squares and streets, lined with tiles of various configurations and colors. Its numerous souvenir shops with all kinds of colored tiles and products made from them did not leave anyone indifferent. The city also houses one of the largest oceanariums. It was a pleasure to travel along the famous tram route No. 28 through its steep streets and with no less pleasure - underground on the metro in modern cozy cars, admiring the unique interior of its stations.
It's time to say goodbye to hospitable Lisbon. We cross one of the longest bridges in Europe. 45 months after the start of work (six months ahead of schedule), on August 6, 1966, a grand opening ceremony took place in the presence of senior officials of the state. The structure was named "Salazar Bridge" in honor of the then dictator of Portugal. Soon after the Carnation Revolution, the bridge was renamed in honor of the day when this event took place - the April 25 Bridge.
Royal Sintra
In the morning we leave Lisbon and head to Sintra. 27 km from Lisbon, at the foot of the low coastal Sierra da Sintra mountains, is the small town of Sintra, which has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1995. The Portuguese themselves consider it the main attraction of the country, the pearl of Portugal. Back in the 8th century, the Moors appreciated the defensive importance of this place and built a fortress here. In 1147, Afonso I Henriques drove out the Arabs and for the next 600 years the city was the summer residence of the Portuguese kings.
Among the luxurious parks, centuries-old forests, bewitching landscapes, amazing palaces, castles, and monasteries rise on the hills.
In the city itself there is the National Palace of Sintra, and in the adjacent mountain-forested area on the hill there is the Palacio da Pena Palace and the dilapidated Castle of the Moors.
Near the station there is a beautiful city hall.
Before climbing the mountain to the Palacio da Pena, we enjoy a walk in the urban part of Sintra, built up with ancient mansions. The streets twist whimsically and often end in steep staircases, the steps leading to observation terraces with stunning views of the mountains and ocean. The cityscape is replete with green forests, exotic flowers and exquisite palaces.
In the city you can find many castles and palaces preserved in their original condition. These castles contain important historical and artistic collections, attracting Portuguese and foreign artists to the city. Not only the castles and palaces are interesting and original, but also the houses in this fabulous city.
The proximity of the ocean and mountain ranges provide humid, cool and slightly windy weather, which is excellent for relaxation even in very hot summers. That is why, already in the 15th century, the fabulous Palacio da Pena castle, which, together with its luxurious park, crowns one of the highest hills of Sintra, became the summer residence of the royal family of Portugal. Situated 450 m above the city of Sintra, it is one of the most significant examples of Portuguese architecture of the Romantic period. Rising on a rocky hill, it is in amazing harmony with the surrounding landscapes, combining lush vegetation and rocky cliffs.
The palace was founded in 1839, when the husband of the Portuguese Queen Mary II, Ferdinando II of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (1816 - 1885), acquired the ruins of the Jerome Monastery and began to rebuild them to his romantic taste in order to create a summer residence here. To fulfill his fantasies, Ferdinando II turned for help to a German friend, Baron Eschwege, and appointed him as construction manager. And since in the 19th century, romantically minded architects no longer hesitated to mix different styles, the castle, like a three-dimensional puzzle, was assembled from German and Portuguese towers, Moorish arches and courtyards and Indian domes. And to top it off, they painted it all in bright colors, which delights not only adults, but also children. The whimsical and eccentric architecture of the palace combines Moorish, Gothic and Manueline motifs and the spirit of Central European castles. The palace stands on the top of a mountain and can be walked around its perimeter along a special path. Ferdinando II also built one of Portugal's most spectacular parks here, which was designed and planted over four years starting in 1846.
This most beautiful and romantic castle in Portugal is jokingly called “Snow White’s Palace” and is often compared to the Bavarian Neuschwanstein. You can get to Pena Palace by bus number 434 from the city center for 4.5 euros, but you can also get there on foot along the path.
We climb the rock where the fortress is located, built by the Moors between the 9th and 10th centuries. During the capture by Christians, the fortress surrendered without a fight. After the 15th century, the fortress lost its strategic importance. A wonderful landscape opens up from above: among the sea of greenery you can see the blue ocean and the white and red roofs of settlements and the capital.
We go down on foot to better experience all the beauty of the surrounding nature. The entire mountainside is strewn with huge boulders, as if after a landslide or rockfall. It is not clear how tall trees can grow on these stones.
I pass by the ruins of an old Moorish fortress - once upon a time life flowed vigorously here, and now only dilapidated stone walls remind of its former greatness.
Royal Sintra will forever be remembered as one of the most harmonious places in the world, combining beautiful landscapes created by Mother Nature and man-made palaces and castles created by talented architects. Lord George Gordon Byron, admiring the beauty of Sintra, called it a paradise, and then forever immortalized the town in the famous poem “The Great Paradise”.
Resort cities of Cascais and Estoril
After lunch we head to the westernmost point of Europe – Cape Roca. The path to it runs along the “Portuguese Riviera”, with a visit to the resort cities of Cascais and Estoril. Although Lisbon is located on the ocean coast, there are no beaches in the city and those who want to plunge into the depths of the sea or just relax on the coast go to these nearby resort towns. These cities are very nice and cozy.
15 km west of Lisbon lies the magnificent resort of Estoril. It has a unique microclimate: warm and sunny summers, moderate temperatures the rest of the year. It is from the resort of Estoril that the tourism industry of Portugal originates. A little over a century ago, the amazingly beautiful nature and mild Atlantic climate attracted the world elite and representatives of famous aristocratic families to Estoril. Magnificent sandy beaches, clear water and hotels inaccessible to mere mortals are traditionally in demand among people of considerable income. Fans of active recreation will enjoy an incredible variety of water sports activities, including 8 brand-new water parks, and excellent golf courses.
Her Majesty the Queen of England often vacations in Estoril, and the well-known Linda Evangelista has chosen the villa. We pass by the hotel where our first and only president of the USSR, Mikhail Gorbachev, vacationed.
Situated just a few kilometers from Estoril and 20 kilometers from Lisbon, Cascais is a typical example of Portuguese architecture with bright tiled roofs and white walls trimmed with colorful ceramic tiles.
The name Cascais comes from the word cascale - “small stone”. The city has a rich historical and architectural ensemble: a history museum, a maritime museum, churches and chapels from the 15th century. There is a monument to Don Pedro in the Central Square.
There are other monuments in the small town. We liked this sculpted warrior.
I really liked this unusual cute bouquet.
A very attractive walk through the upper town with a beautifully maintained city park and the romantic Aristocrat Castle.
If you move further from the city along the rocky coast, you find yourself in Guinsha - a kingdom of wide dunes with frequent stormy winds. This corner of untouched nature is a real paradise for windsurfers. Here is the picturesque cliff of Boca de Infierno (“mouth of the underworld”): the sea has washed out a hole in the rock, and “hell’s stew” is now constantly boiling in these stone jaws.
CapeCabo deRock
The mountain road leads to a cliff, from which a dizzying panorama of the ocean and coastal cliffs opens. This is the westernmost point of Europe, the Cape of Cabo de Roca, which became a tourist attraction only in 1979. Before this, the Spanish Cape Finisterre (Latin for “end of the earth”) was considered the “edge of the world” on the Iberian Peninsula. The 140-meter-high rock, like the bow of a ship, protrudes into the ocean. Ignoring the protective barrier, I approach its edge. Standing at the very cliff, I listen to the solemn music of the ocean and am filled with its energy. Probably, the great Portuguese navigators, standing off the western shores of their native continent and peering into the vast expanses of the ocean, wondered: “What lies beyond these distances?” and to find the answer to this question they went on long sea voyages.
We overcame a difficult journey here by bus through many European countries from the westernmost point of our native Ukraine, the Transcarpathian city of Chop (48º05′ N, 22º08′ E). We take a photo for memory with our yellow-blue national flag next to the stone stele, on which the coordinates are carved (38º47′ N, 9º30′ W) and the inscription “ Onde a terra acaba e o mar comeca....” Shrouded in fog or illuminated by the bright sun, this is the one and only place where, as the poet Camões said: “ TOthe earth ends and the ocean begins» , - this is exactly how the words carved on the stone stele sound in translation.
And this is a memorial stone.
As evidence of my presence in such a charismatic place, I purchase a personal certificate from the Cape service center stating that I really was here. On the reverse side the following words are written in different languages, including Russian: “ I certify that I was at Cape Roca in Sintra, in Portugal, at the westernmost point of the European continent, at the very edge of the world, “where the earth ends and the ocean begins,” where the Spirit of Faith, Love and the thirst for adventure prompted the Portuguese caravels to set off to searching for a new world» .
The souvenir shop has a lot of different products about your stay in the westernmost point of Europe, especially a lot of souvenirs with drawings on a variety of ceramic products. I choose a refrigerator magnet in the form of a small ceramic tile with a picture of a cape as a souvenir of my visit to this unique place.
But the main thing that we take away from this place is the memories of what the westernmost point of our native European continent looks like. The turquoise surface of the Atlantic caresses the eye, and the formidable rocks evoke legends of tragic, unrequited love.
We have reached the most extreme point of our native continent and here I end my story about the journey through the Iberian Peninsula, my “Pyrenean Novel”.