Meteora monasteries. The obvious and the incredible: Meteors in Greece Meteors Greece on the map of Greece

Even without world-famous monasteries, this place is an unusual natural phenomenon. More than a thousand towers, like a stone forest, grew out of the soil of the Thessalian Valley. According to geologists, in prehistoric times there was a huge sea or lake here, which covered the entire surrounding area and gradually became shallow over millions of years. But the Meteora monasteries, built on the tops of these skyward rock formations, are notable not only for their unique location.

A miracle soaring in the skies

Greece is the world center of Orthodox monasticism: millions of pilgrims come to Athos alone every year to venerate holy relics and pray to ancient icons, asking for their intercession and blessings for earthly affairs. However, another monastery complex, Meteora, which grew near the city of Kalambaki in the north of the country a little over a thousand years ago, is comparable in importance to Athos in Greece.

It’s not for nothing that meteors are called floating in the air: the monasteries really, in some incomprehensible way, rest on the very tops of sandstone cliffs, leaving a feeling of a miracle happening before our eyes.

According to various sources, among the Meteor mountains there used to be 21, 22 or even 24 monasteries. Time and world upheavals have not spared most of them: only six monasteries have survived to this day, while the fate of the rest was destruction and oblivion.

The road to the remaining monasteries was originally rope ladders and scaffolding made of timber, but by the 20s of the last century they had all simply rotted, so much more convenient, safe and durable steps had to be cut into the rocks.

As a result, UNESCO, a well-known scientific and cultural organization, included the Meteora monastery complex, literally resurrected from the ashes, on the World Heritage List in the late 80s - Greece thus received the fifth of the seventeen existing and officially recognized world masterpieces in this country. In this impressive list, Meteora is listed at No. 425.

The feeling of being in the Meteor temples is somehow different from everything I have experienced before. It seems that you see the same thing as when you cross the threshold of an ordinary Christian church: gilded iconostases, majestic icons, holy faces of skillful paintings on the walls of churches.

But the mysterious light of unquenchable lamps and the flickering flame of candles, and most importantly, the awareness of how old (centuries) everything that you see around you now is - all this together makes it clear that this time you are not quite in an ordinary place. And if you are lucky enough to get to the monastery when there is not a large influx of tourists, then everyone who has gone up to at least one of the monasteries and examined its treasures will experience these sensations.

Megala Meteora, Great Meteoron Monastery, or Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Lord

The largest surviving monastery is located on the largest meteor rock of Platilitos (613 m above sea level) and 475 m above Kalambaka and Kastraki. The first temple was built by Athanasius in 1380, then it was supplemented by the monk Joasaph in 1387-1388, and updated and completed by Simeon in 1541-1542. There are 154 steps leading to the monastery.

The museum monastery is a repository of a marvelously embroidered shroud of the 14th century, as well as unique icons: the Birth and Crucifixion of Christ, the Torment of the Lord and the Sorrowful Mother of God.

Here you can also venerate holy relics - the relics of the founding fathers of Meteora and other no less revered saints. Once upon a time, the patriarchs and royalty of Byzantium loved to visit mountain monasteries, bringing many gifts to the monks. All of them have been lovingly preserved to this day, as are the 600 volumes of priceless manuscripts stored in this museum.

At the heart of the architectural complex of the Transfiguration Monastery:

• Cathedral of St. Athanasius
• Chapel of St. John the Baptist (early 17th century)
• Chapel of Saints Constantine and Helena (XVIII century)

A continuation of the museum, but already in the open air, were examples of post-Byzantine architecture - the holy of holies of monastic life, usually hidden from the worldly eye - cells, a refectory with a kitchen, a monastery hospital. There is also a folklore museum here.

Monastery of St. Nicholas

The path to it is not close and even somewhat tedious: 143 steps to the foot of the rock from Kastraki, and then another 85, but already cut into the rock itself.

The monastery was built at the end of the 15th century, erecting it on three levels. Each of them has its own temple:

• Chapel of St. Anthony
• Church of St. Nicholas with a spacious nave and refectory. The uniqueness of its architectural design lies in the complete repetition of the relief of the flat rock adjacent to the southern wall of the monastery
• Church of St. John the Baptist with attached cells and crypt

It was founded by Nicholas Anapavsas the Pacifier, an ancient monk who apparently received his nickname for his humble service to God and personal example of Christian patience.

The monastery is famous for the fact that the wall paintings of the Church of St. Nicholas were made by the famous artist-monk from Crete Theophanis (“Bathias”). His inscription has been preserved on one of the walls: it indicates that the master completed the last stroke of his first masterpiece in his life in 1527.

Then there were his other, no less majestic creations - paintings on the walls of the Athos churches.

Monastery of Varlaam (Μονή Βαρλαάμ) or All Saints

This is the second largest monastery of all those operating in Meteora, built on a 375-meter rock. Its history began with a church built by Hieromonk Varlaam in 1350 and called the Three Saints. A little later, monastic cells appeared here. Brother-monks - Nektarios and Theofanis Apsaradon - 200 years later continued the work of their predecessor, for which they became known in world history as the real founders of the monastery.

They turned the church into a full-fledged Church of the Three Saints, covering it with a wooden roof and performing rich paintings on the temple walls.

Then All Saints Church appeared. Its basis was a huge tuff stone, which took 22 long years to lift onto the rock, but the walls were erected at a speed that was amazing even for us - in just 20 days. The decoration of the cathedral was completely completed by the middle of the 16th century.

The monastery became the seat of the largest book-writing workshop in Meteora and operated until the 18th century, after which an era of oblivion and even looting began: its treasury was badly damaged in World War II, losing almost all of its creations. The new life of the monastery began in the 60s - after restoration.

The surviving relics of the Varlaam monastery are now safely stored in the museum - the former refectory. Here you can see:

• Famous icons
• Relics of saints
• Founders' Shroud, gilded
• Crosses, dishes
• Handwritten parchment codices
• A large library of almost three hundred books, including the Gospel

Monastery of the Holy Trinity (Μονή Αγίας Τριάδος)

The inscription on its facade says that it was probably founded in the 50-70s of the 15th century. The Venetian Gospel is kept in the Holy Trinity Monastery in Meteora - an ancient relic, very revered by Orthodox Christians. You can get here only by climbing 140 steps, cut in the 20s of the last century.

The second temple - John the Baptist - was skillfully carved by the monastery architects right into the rock. However, it is not only the architecture of these places that is impressive: the bed of the Pinos River flowing at the foot of the cliff, the stone valley and the forested mountain range stretching over the cliff create one of the most majestic and bewitching pictures in all of Greece. The panoramic views from the balcony behind the cathedral are also amazing.

Here you can click your camera to your heart's content: from here you can see all the other monasteries of Meteora - photos from the cliff turn out excellent.

Monastery of Rusanu (Μονή Ρουσάνου) or St. Barbara

There is no written evidence indicating that the founding father of the monastery was Rusanos. Presumably it was founded in 1380 by hieromonks Nicodemos and Venediktos, and about a century later, in the 16th century, it was completed by Maxim and Joasaph. They then spent their entire lives there.

The wall paintings belong to Cretan artists: they worked here during the heyday of their school. The openwork carved iconostasis shines with generous gilding on wood. Icons and dishes, vestments, and holy relics are kept in the church.

Monastery of St. Stephen (Μονή Αγίου Στεφάνου)

This monastery, founded in the late Middle Ages by the monk Anthony, is clearly visible from Kalambaka: it is the closest to the city. There are two cathedrals here: one is usually called the old one, and the other is the Cathedral of St. Harlampius. It was built much later - in the 18th century.

It is famous for its museum, which houses a rich collection of portable icons. This museum was opened in an ancient altar. The monastic cells and monastery stables also underwent reconstruction.

The territory is beautifully landscaped and cozy, there are flowers and decorative bushes everywhere. And it’s not surprising, because this monastery is one of two active convents in Meteora.

The monastery of St. Stephen is easy to access: the bridge and the access road are on the same level with the cliff.

Visiting times and how to get to Meteora

With a bus tour, all six monasteries can be visited in one day, but usually the organized tour program includes three monasteries. The rest can be seen and photographed from different angles and at different heights, driving up and passing along the ring to other monasteries.

Such an excursion can be purchased at any travel agency, and in this case you will not be bothered by the question of how to get to Meteora, and on the way from your hotel and back in a few hours you will also see a good part of Greece.

From Thessaloniki you can get to Meteora on your own by train (direct and with transfers), by bus (Macedonia bus station, 4 trips through Trikala, travel time - 2 hours 45 minutes, round trip ticket costs 31 euros) and by car.

For those who need to get to Meteora from Athens (350 km), there are also three ways:

Two daily direct flights from Athens to Kalambaka from Larisis railway station and several connecting flights (Palaeofarsalos). Travel time is 4.5 hours.

Liosion bus station, frequent daily services to Trikala, then transfer to Kalambaka.

Automobile

Highway E-75, travel time - 4 hours. You can find travel companions in advance on Bla-Bla or have a credit card with you to rent a car. The roads in Greece are wonderful.

Compare accommodation prices using this form

You cannot enter the Meteora monasteries in Greece half-naked due to the intense heat: shoulders and legs must be covered. Therefore, shorts (for both men and women) are inappropriate. The best women's clothing for such an excursion is a long skirt with a closed blouse or an almost closed dress.

Many tourists, after a one-day organized excursion, return here next time as pilgrims and spend several days in Meteora, staying in one of the many campsites at the foot of the Meteora mountains or hotels and guest houses in Kalambaki. The spirit of one of the greatest Orthodox shrines is contagious and does not leave many until the next visit.

How to book a hotel nearby, availability of places in campsites, changes in the seasonal schedule for visiting monasteries and in transport schedules, reviews of tourists and pilgrims - all this and much other useful and detailed information about Meteora in Greece can be found on the website of the travel agency of the monastery complex. There you can book a tour and read local news.

Tour desk address: 2 Patriarchou Dimitriou, Kastraki, Kalambaka 422 00, Greece

Find out PRICES or book any accommodation using this form

Over many centuries, this majestic place has turned into a spiritual oasis for thousands of ascetics and pilgrims. They come here in search of a source of spiritual strength and peace. And among secular people, ordinary tourists who first came to the rock monasteries of Meteora, the first glance at everything around them at first even gives rise to some feeling of fear. And then reflection takes our thoughts to infinite spaces and heavenly worlds.

You need to visit this place at least once in your life.

Watch an informative and beautiful video about the Meteora monasteries in Greece. The author gives a lot of useful tips that are worth taking note if you are going on a trip.

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The formation of the mysterious shape of the cliffs in the vicinity of the Meteor monasteries (Μονές Μετεώρων) occurred more than 60 million years ago. In the central part of the Thessalian Valley, where Meteora of Greece is located, there was once a sea or a delta of a flowing river. As a result of tectonic changes, the earth's crust rose and water surged through the Tempey Gorge. Over the course of millions of years, nature has destroyed the loose rocks of the mountain range, exposing the hardness of basalt compactions. Today we see a holo-stone ridge of hundreds of pillars rising above the surface of the Thessalian valley.

Four monasteries in Meteora

Unusual pillars reach a height of up to 613 meters. In the 16th century, the monasteries in Majestic Meteora experienced a period of revival and prosperity, the number of brethren increased and the number of monasteries reached 24. Until our time, only six monasteries managed to survive: of which two were women’s monasteries and four were men’s.

Greece is the birthplace of Orthodoxy, and it is no coincidence that historically, in the successor of Byzantium, on the territory of modern Greece, there is a huge number of iconic landmarks, monasteries and Christian shrines. If you are lucky enough to purchase a tour from the Travel Company - PrimusTour to Greece, then be sure to take the opportunity to take an excursion to Meteora from Thessaloniki and Chalkidiki with an individual guide. This place leaves no one indifferent.

The greatness and grace of the Meteor of Greece, an incomprehensible fusion of the creation of human hands and the nature of nature, all this inseparably gives rise to the special magic of soaring giants, hewn out of the firmament, with caps - monasteries, covering the tops of their heads. The petrified giants wearily look after the curious wanderer, who unsuccessfully tries to place what he saw into his consciousness.

In the footsteps of hermits on an excursion to Meteora

According to ancient chronicles, one of the first hermits was the schema-monk Barnabas, who founded the monastery of the Holy Spirit in 950-960. In fact, the first desert dwellers climbed to pray on the steep cliffs of the Meteora monasteries long before him. There is no exact evidence of the initial appearance of hermits.

The gap between the monasteries of Varlaam and Transfiguration

The hermits drove wooden stakes into the crevices of stones, built scaffolds, used ropes and primitive devices to retire from worldly life on stone masses in some kind of caves. Some of them are more like small depressions, and rope ladders can still be seen falling from abandoned monasteries. Neither the cold of winter, nor the chilly winds, nor the summer heat could deter the hermits from their desire to pray together on the steep pillars.

What unknown force pushed these people to voluntary seclusion in monasteries, we will no longer know, but having found ourselves at least once at the top, we may experience the same passion - to get away from everyone, seclude ourselves, and closely merge with the gray stone.

An excursion to the monasteries today involves a relatively comfortable ascent along steps carved into the monolith.

Varvara Monastery

For joint worship of those times, the hermits descended every Sunday to the monastery at the foot of the mountains, which rises to the left as you rise along the road from Kastraki. The earliest written mention of a newly formed monastic community in central Greece dates back to the tenth century under the name of the monastery "Dupiani".

At the entrance to Kalambaka, in its place just before the start of the ascent to Meteora, a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary was built.

In 1160, the above-mentioned monastery was built with a new name “Staghi”. Researchers usually associate this particular date with the birth of an organized monastic state, and subsequently with an authoritative community of ascetics, which had influence not only throughout Greece, but also in the Balkans.

photo tour, great angles

Excursion to Meteora accompanied by a private guide in Greece takes the entire day.

In addition to the standard excursion, we offer a photo tour to the monasteries and photo sessions in Meteora for one or two days, depending on your interests.

Excursions to the monasteries in Meteora
Varvara Monastery

With us you will find exotic angles, great spots for portrait photos, as well as tips on choosing a composition.

Wherever in the world-famous complex of monasteries on top of stone monoliths you can capture original photographs, where the fantastic landscape changes every ten steps. It doesn't matter what kind of camera you have. The main thing is the individual perception of what is contemplated and the feeling of the magical atmosphere of the place, plus advice from “experienced people”.

Whether washed by the tears of the vault of heaven, or covered with a thick cream of snow-white clouds, the stone forest always takes on a fabulous look.

Where are Meteora located in Greece?

In the northwestern part of Thessaly, between the Pindus and Antihasya mountain ranges (Mount Kosiakos), where the Pinaeus River enters the Thessalian plain, huge gray stone blocks rise. Geographically, the Meteora monasteries belong to the Trikala prefecture, located 20 kilometers to the east.

Meteora Monasteries Map

You can get to the monastery complex from the villages at the foot of the massif - Kalambaki or Kastraki, which are located in central Greece, 260 kilometers south of Thessaloniki and 350 kilometers north of Athens and 100 kilometers east of the city of Larissa.

There are several ways to get there: by tourist buses with a group excursion, by car and by public transport.
There is a railway line from Athens to Thessaloniki. The train stops in Kalambaka. It is best to take a taxi from the station to the monasteries.

Monastery of the Pious Theodores
Trinity Monastery

To get to Kalambaka from Thessaloniki by bus, you need to change trains in Trikala. You need to take into account flight connecting times. You can get there the same way from Athens.
If you go by car, then on the highway connecting Athens with Thessaloniki, you need to turn in the direction of the city of Larissa, passing through Trikala.

Description of the monasteries, interesting facts

Early 14th century, Greece. Monk Athanasius, driven by the devastation of Athos and all of northern Greece by the Catalans, arrives to these places along with his spiritual mentor Gregory. Driven by the desire to create a community like the one at Athos, he publishes a set of rules for monastic life.

Monastery of the Great Meteor (Transfiguration of the Lord)

Great Meteor Monastery

A little later, in 1340, together with fourteen other monks, he organized something crazy for those times - the construction of a monastery on the highest rock (613 meters above sea level) and more than 400 above the village of Kalambaka.

More than 600 years ago, calling this splendor the Great Meteors (Μεγάλο Μετέωρο) - “floating in the air”, Athanasius thereby predetermined the name of the monasteries and the entire majestic complex.

From my own observations I noticed: when the cool Thessalian valley is filled with the warm breath of the wind from the south of Greece, an interesting view opens up - the mountains and the earth are clearly distinguishable, and the foot seems to dissolve in a transparent cloud. This makes the cliffs look wonderful, as if suspended.

father Joseph

The successor to Athanasius’s work was his friend during his lifetime, Josaph Meteorite, considered the second ktitor of the monasteries, heir to the Serbian monarchs. At the age of 23, after the death of his father, the ruler of the throne of Serbia, Joseph preferred seclusion in a monastery to a luxurious royal mansion. The relics of the founders of the community rest in the southern aisle of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior.

The bell was used to call for service in monasteries
On an excursion to Meteora

The communal way of life for the monks also continued after death. The deceased was wrapped in a shroud and buried in shallow caves, sprinkled with a handful of earth. Over time, the decayed relics were transferred, having previously been washed, into a common cache - an ossuary at the temple. The inscription above the entrance of the ossuary changes the traveler’s gaze from curious to detached. “WE were like YOU, and YOU will become like WE.”

A wisely and succinctly expressed thought passes through the consciousness like an electric discharge, pulls with it to hoary antiquity with the harsh everyday life of monks, then instantly jumps into the future, where it looks inquisitively at YOUR remains... and with a small, barely noticeable tremor returns to mortal flesh.

between heaven and earth

Until 1923, visiting and climbing to the Meteor monasteries was only possible using rope ladders with primitive scaffolding. Now, during excursions, pilgrims and tourists easily climb the steps carved into the rock. And in those days, especially respected guests and elders were lifted in a wicker net-bag on a winch using a simple mechanism designed for the strength of only two people.

Monastic utensils
Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Lord

According to the description of Russian travelers of the 19th century who visited Greece, during half an hour of such an ascent, “between earth and sky,” all life flashed before their eyes. This could hardly be considered a pleasant excursion. The ascent in this way took from half an hour to 45 minutes. The pilgrim who was in the net was shaking from the jerks of the lifting mechanism and the gusty wind, so he had to defend himself from the slopes in the swinging net.

The string of the gate mechanism was changed only if it broke, and the inhabitants took the tragic incident as a special grace of God.
In 1388, Joseph rebuilt the cathedral, making it more magnificent. The main part and narthex were erected in 1545, preserving the altar part of the original church, and painted seven years later.

Monastery of St. Stephen the First Martyr

Thessaly Valley and Stephen's Monastery

It rises in the eastern part of the mountain range, directly above the village of Kalambaka.

During his time he was known as the richest among the Meteora community (Μονή Αγίου Στεφάνου Μετεώρων). Its founder is considered to be Anthony, the son of a Serbian king, who laid the key stone during construction in the 14th century. In the middle of the 16th century, the Monk Philotheus, the second ktitor, rebuilt the monastery of Archdeacon Stephen.
However, during the reconstruction of the buildings, a fragment of marble was discovered with the carved inscription JEREMIAH, dated 1192, which gives reason to believe that the available reliable information in history is relative, due to the loss of it after the Turkish occupation.

bridge to the monastery
buildings of Stephen's monastery

The modern cathedral was built according to the Holy Mountain architectural type in 1798. The nuns keep the honorable head of the holy martyr Charalampios, this priceless gift from the Romanian rulers. The sacristy contains precious relics: a shroud embroidered with gold, rare books, handwritten publications, portable icons, skillfully made crosses for the blessing of water.
For a long time, this monastery in Meteora supported educational activities in the territory of central Greece. With the complicity of the abbot and the brethren, free schools were opened in the villages of Kalambaka, Kastraki and Trikala, and orphans were kept in orphanages.

Pignos River, Thessalian Valley
Pindos ridge behind Stephen's monastery

Access to the desert was blocked by raising a suspension bridge, which hung precariously over the abyss. Recently it was replaced with a stationary one. An unusually beautiful sight opens from the courtyard to the monasteries and the visible Thessalian valley, filled with blue and green colors framed by the silver ribbon of the Pignos River.

On occasion, pay attention to the abundance of greenery and well-groomed courtyards. It took several decades to raise the soil for their arrangement on lifeless stones. In front of the iconostasis the relics of the patrons are honored - the First Martyr Archdeacon Stephen and Charalampios, whose monastery was recently painted and has now been a women's monastery since the sixties of the last century.

Monastery of Saint Barbara (Rusanu)

Varvara Monastery

Until 1897, monks had access to the desert using rope ladders. The gap between the two giant boulders was later connected by a bridge. And now wanderers can easily climb to the monastery. The name Rousanou (ή Μονή Ρουσάνου) suggests that the first hermit who settled on the cliff was either from the town of Rosanu, which is located in the region of Thessaly (central Greece), or comes from the name of the founder of the old temple, who laid the foundation in the 14th century.

In historical chronicles, the date of renovation of the Transfiguration Cathedral and cells in the Meteora monasteries is 1545 from the Nativity of Christ. Hieromonks Maxim and Joseph, who came from the city of Ioannina, restored the buildings that had fallen into disrepair by that time. They are considered the second ktitors of the monastery. The modern five-story complex on a narrow cliff that we see today was built in the 16th century; before that time, information was contradictory. Since there is fragmentary information about the founding of the cell by Rusanu, the monks Nicodemus and Benedict in 1288.

Monastery against the background of peach flowers
Monasteries in Greece

Built in the traditional Byzantine style, the temple is decorated with luxurious wall paintings by famous Greek artists of the mid-16th century, donated by Abbot Arsenios. The wall painting belongs to the Cretan school. Most likely it was made by a student of the famous Theophanes of Strelitz, named Tsortsi.

In plan the cathedral has the shape of a cross. The polygonal dome rests on two columns in the center and two side apses. Like other monasteries, Rusanu was often plundered. The surviving relics and manuscripts are kept in the Transfiguration Monastery of the Great Meteora. Upon entering the vestibule of the church, we notice the plot of the Second Coming. Christ the Pantocrator is placed in the center of the dome, around him everyone glorifies God. The entire space of the nave is filled with scenes of the martyrdom of the Saints, who chose to lose their lives rather than betray their faith. Basically, the sanctuary painting is based on episodes from the life of Jesus Christ.

Great Martyr Barbara

The patroness of the Rusanu monastery is the Righteous Barbara, who suffered from the persecution of Christians under the pagan emperor Diocletian. Here, in the nave of the cathedral, the sisters guard her relics, as well as the Pious Modest and Panteleimon. The venerable saint is the patron saint of all people whose work involves increased risk.

Monastery staircase to cell Convent

Varvara was born in Iliopol, on the territory of Syria. She differed from her peers in her beauty and wit. The daughter of a rich pagan, she believed in one God and was baptized without her father’s permission, accepting the Christian faith.

Having learned about this from an informer, he gave his own daughter to the governor with a request to severely punish her for neglecting the Roman gods. Having endured inhuman torture and torment, the Great Martyr Varvara gave up her spirit to God after the beheading of her head, falling victim at the hands of her own parent. Since the sixties of the last century, the monasteries of Rusanu and Stefan were converted into women's monasteries.

Despite the strict lifestyle, the nuns manage to maintain comfort at the highest level even on these gloomy blocks. When approaching the monastery across the bridge over the abyss, the pilgrim will notice luxurious flower beds decorating the courtyard throughout the year.

Monastery of St. Varlaam

Monasteries of Meteora: Varlaam and Rusanu

A contemporary of Athanasius, the hermit Varlaam climbed the ridge, driving wooden stakes into sandstone crevices using ropes and rudimentary scaffolding. With a small brethren from nearby monasteries, he managed to build a chapel on the peak and several cells, which after his death fell into disrepair and were pretty much destroyed.

The second ktitors of the monastery of Varlaam (ή μονή των Αγίων Πάντων ή Μονή Βαρλαάμ) were two brothers from the city of Ioannina, in northwestern Greece, Nektarios and Theophanes Apsaras. The brothers dedicated their lives to God, moving away from worldly temptations. After living in the Monastery of the Transfiguration for about seven years, they decided to restore the collapsed chapel on a nearby rock. The number of brethren who came to help grew steadily, and soon the question arose of building a spacious cathedral capable of accommodating all the novices, as well as new cells with an extensive courtyard.

Temple of Varlam
monasteries of Varlaam and Varvara

The monastery was erected according to the canons of Mount Athos: cross-domed architecture, with two apses in front of the altar, creating an unusually beautiful sound effect during the service. The painting of the central cathedral was carried out in two stages. The masters who created unsurpassed masterpieces of Meteor painting combined Orthodox traditions with Italian icon painting techniques, which is manifested in the sharp contrasts of colors in the reproduction of images of the great martyrs.

After the construction of the monastery was completed, a miracle happened to Feofan. Being bedridden with an incurable illness, he was able to rise without outside help and bless the builders of the temple, glorifying God and all the Righteous. After the blessing, the elder left this world, resting in peace in his cell.

cells of the monastery of All Saints
excursion to Greek monasteries

On the territory of the monastery there are: a working museum, a storage room for food and wine with a preserved barrel with a volume of 12,000 liters, and a platform on the edge of a ledge with a working mechanism for transporting goods.

Delivery of materials is still carried out traditionally by the network. The rope, however, was replaced with a steel cable, and the net with a metal cage, but the principle of delivering goods to the tops of the rocks has not changed for more than 700 years.

Monastery of the Holy Trinity

Trinity Monastery

Perhaps this is the most ascetic and most inaccessible of all the hostels. A lonely pillar, surrounded by a round dance of stone guard giants, is shared by an abyss with neighboring communities. An ignorant traveler will never find the narrow path leading to the foot. 140 steps lead to the top of the monastery.

during an excursion to Meteora
Trinity Monastery, Greece

At the entrance to the monastery courtyard, on the left there is a church dedicated to John the Baptist - a round niche carved into the monolith, the size of a small room. The main Cathedral of the Holy Trinity is planned in the southern wing. The cross-domed architecture of the temple was erected according to the canons of the Mount Athos Lavra. The wall frescoes inside the church are in good condition and date from the mid-18th century. In addition to the usual buildings, such as a kitchen, a dining room and cells for monks, at each monastery there are storage facilities for collecting water - containers carved into stone. The absence of a source of water on the peaks of the Meteor rocks posed a primary task for the ascetics - the creation of reservoirs for collecting rainwater. For decades, through hard work and prayer, the soil for growing vegetables and fruits also rose to the heights of blocks.

Nave dome in the monastery: Pantocrator with angelic powers
Trinity Monastery and Mount Koziakos

The construction of the Trinity (ή Μονή Αγίας Τριάδος Μετεώρων), according to the chronicles, took 18 years, and the supply of materials for construction took as many as 70! From the courtyard there is a dizzying panorama of all the active refuges of ascetics. The site is filled with many tourists coming to Greece on excursions and trying to take pictures of themselves against the backdrop of the sights. But not a single photograph could come even a little closer to the feeling that you experience standing on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Trinity cliff.

Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas

Monastery of Nicholas Anapavsas

The refuge between the destroyed cenovia of the Baptist and Agia Moni is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors, the Bishop of Myra in Lycia, especially revered by the Orthodox.

Due to the fact that the coverage of the plateau is small, the buildings rose several tiers in height, filling the depressions and skirting the hills. The sanctuary is harmoniously integrated into the landscape, maintaining the strict architectural identity inherent in Orthodox churches.
To get into it, you need to overcome eighty steep steps. The remains of the old wooden staircase (originally it consisted of 62 steps), with the help of which the hermitages climbed to Meteora, are still visible.

A flight of stairs leads us to the chapel of St. Anthony, a former repository of the relics of deceased hermits, with frescoes from the 14th century preserved in the conch. It also contained manuscripts and sacred relics.

On the first tier there is an exhibition hall. Having overcome several steps, we find ourselves in the narthex. Due to the limited size of the cinema, the vestibule served as a monastery courtyard, where the brethren indulged in reading and performed obediences during the hours when services were not conducted.

Frescoes

The frescoes in the cathedral were made by Theophanes Strelitz (Cretan) and acquired by Hierodeacon Cyprian. This is stated in the ktitor's inscription above the entrance, dating the completion of painting of the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas on October 12, 1527. Subsequently, Theophanes of Crete painted the Stavronikita monastery on Holy Mount Athos and the refectory of the Great Lavra. And in fact he brought a fresh spirit to Byzantine painting, borrowing decorative motifs from the Italian Renaissance, he turned out to be an example to follow by later artists.

Frescoes of the temple narthex
Nikolai Anapavsas

Noteworthy is the scene of the Second Coming of Christ, where at the top is the image of the Savior - a just judge. To the right and left of him are the apostles sitting on thrones. Under the feet of Christ is depicted the plot of the preparation of the throne with kneeling Adam and Eve, below are the scales of justice.
On the left is the arrival of the righteous to heaven, below gathered in front of the gates of Paradise. The Apostle Peter stands at the door with the keys to the gates, and in Paradise Abraham is depicted surrounded by children, symbolizing the souls of believers. The just thief is the first to enter Paradise.

On the right, the painting is dismembered by a fiery river of hell from the mouth of a dragon. From above, an angel with a trumpet announces the resurrection of the dead and the beginning of judgment. Incarnate images of the earth and sea bring back the departed from their depths. On the eastern wall are the founders of the monasteries and the Holy Righteous Men of Meteor.

upper levels

From the vestibule there is an entrance to a small temple, designed for only five stasidia. There are no openings for light in the dome (except for one small window), since two more tiers of the monastery rise from above. The plot of the painting of the sanctuary is dedicated to the twelve most important holidays of the church year and begins with scenes of the Annunciation, Nativity, Candlemas, and ends with scenes of the Crucifixion, Ascension and Pentecost. The peculiarity of the pictorial decoration is that the scale of the iconographic episodes is comparable to the size of portable icons. And the impeccable technique of execution balanced the clear contours of the figures with bright colors in clothing, characteristic of Western art.
On the second tier there is an archondarik for receiving pilgrims, a kitchen and a gate for supplying the necessary goods.

The third tier is occupied by the former monastery refectory, converted into a library, decorated with frescoes, as well as a water tank, monks’ cells and a wide balcony with panoramic views.
The top of the monolith is crowned by a bell tower with a wide platform.

Destroyed monasteries and hermitages

Monastery of the Presentation of Christ

If you climb from the village of Kastraki, along a dry riverbed, you invariably come to a prison pillar called filaki (prison for novices). At its base there is an open mouth, wide at the bottom and gradually narrowing towards the top, like a triangle. Behind the entrance to the cavity there is a cave, and above the cave, in the sides and in the depths of it, grottoes of different volumes, at least fourteen, go inside.

All the passages are led by artificial recesses, of which now only beams, logs and the rocks that supported them remain. Guilty ascetics were kept in these dungeons. The huge cave was once blocked by a wall, the remains of which are visible to those descending along the road from Rusanu.

Ascetarium of St. Gregory
Monastery of Blessed Anthony

A prison church was built above the entrance itself. In 1751, Priest Rizo painted a small icon of the Mother of God for her, now she is protected in the Rusanu Monastery. Now only the recesses in both sides of the grotto have survived, into which beams for the floor and ceiling of the church were inserted, and the cavity in which there was an altar has also been preserved. In this prison, all the prisoners in Meteora and the voluntary hermits who guarded them listened to the sacred services.

At the exit from the cave, a recess is carved into a special piece of rock in the form of a deeply concave mirror or a dish placed on its side. The prison guard sat here, and now only sometimes shepherds drive in their sheep and goats.

Agia Moni

ruins of the monastery of Agia Moni Monastery of Agia Moni Former Monastery of the Great Martyr Demetrius

Opposite the prison pillar, it’s a stone’s throw to Nikolai Anapavsas and Dupiani.
On the boulder adjacent to the St. Nicholas Church, there was the monastery of Agia Moni, erected on the crown and on the edges of a very high and narrow rock. In 1710 the church was empty, then in February an inventory of its utensils and sacristy was made.

The things were transported to the cathedral church of the city of Stagon. With the condition that when the desert dwellers settle on the pillar, they will return the rewritten utensils and pay 5 piastres for transportation.

In 1771, the wall was erected at the expense of Gabriel. In 1790, priest Gabriel (presumably this is the same person) from the village of Abelaki donated particles of the relics of St. to the church. Mercury and St. Macrina. He died in Agia Moni on August 25, 1792.

In 1821, the church, consecrated in memory of the Nativity of the Virgin, was painted by Christodoulus from the Epirus city of Ioannina at the expense of captain Athanasius Mandalopoulo and the priest of Kalambaka Efthimius Douki.

In December 1858 there was an earthquake, and then the middle building of the monastery collapsed, only the outlying walls survived.

On the same line with the stone steep Agia Moni, but closer to Varlaam, on a huge basalt pillar stood the cell of Ipsilopetra (the highest). In 1650 it was already called a monastery.
From the crown of the St. Nicholas Pillar one can see the destroyed monasteries of the Holy Spirit, St. George and Forerunner. The Forerunner Rock is narrow and low, and therefore the monks were unable to build anything on it except two cells and a lifting tower.

destroyed monastery of John the Baptist
Monastery of Nikolai Badov (Kofina)

Touch the Divine

The beauty of the landscape, Byzantine art, Christian traditions, the historical past and modernity coexist with each other on the tops of these monumental blocks, which have preserved centuries-old Orthodox and artistic heritage. This area to this day jealously preserves the piety and prayers of righteous hermits, being a symbol of human will and incredible efforts aimed at the constant desire to touch the Divine.

Dress code for excursions to Meteora should be appropriate when visiting Orthodox shrines: a skirt below the knees and covered shoulders for women, trousers for men.

interesting facts from the history of Meteor in the 19th century

Hello friends! Just recently I told you about the existence of the eighth wonder of the world -.

This place is amazing and even a little magical. Giant inaccessible rocks, decorated with monastery caps, literally float in the air. It’s hard to believe in the existence of such unearthly beauty until you find yourself there.

Therefore, today I propose to continue the topic of getting to know the monastery complex. In the post you will learn about how to get to the Greek monasteries of Meteora, as well as the rules for visiting the holy monasteries.

There are two ways to get to the Meteor monasteries: on your own, using public transport, or as part of an excursion.

By public transport

If you decide to visit the monasteries on your own, then you will first need to get to the town of Kalambaki, located right at the foot of the monastery complex.

From Athens

You can get to Kalambaka from the capital of the country, Athens, by train or bus, and trains run both direct and with transfers in Paleofarsalos. It is cheaper to buy tickets for direct trains and in both directions at once. On the official website of the railways, tickets are cheaper than at the station ticket office. You should also understand that tickets for class A carriages are more expensive than for class B carriages due to the increased level of comfort.

The train to Kalambaka from Athens departs from Larissa station (the metro station of the same name (red line) is located right next to the station). Direct flight number 884 towards Meteor and 885 – back. Ticket prices start from 14 euros per person one way.

You can also get to Kalambaka from Athens by bus. It departs from Lyosion bus station (Kato Patissia metro stop - green line), from Terminal B. The bus departs every 2 hours from 7:30 to 15:30 with a change in Trikala. Ticket prices can be found on the official website of the KTEL Trikala bus line. Just like the train, round trip tickets are cheaper.

If you decide to rent a car and drive on your own, then you should go towards Lamia, then to Domokos, Karditsa, Trikala and Kalambaka. This journey will take about 4 hours. The distance from Athens to Kalambaka is 350 km. However, it should be remembered that there are very few signs along the entire route. If you are going to Meteora for the first time, it is better to take care of an accompanying person.

From Thessaloniki

Kalambaka can also be reached from Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece. Trains depart from the only railway station in the city. You can get there from Macedonia Airport by bus following route No. 78. Direct train No. 591 departs at 16:17 from Thessaloniki and arrives at its destination 3 hours later. The return flight (No. 590) departs at 8:19 from Kalambaka. So with this option, expect to spend 2 nights in Kalambaka. The cost of moving starts from 12 euros. You can also choose an option with a transfer in Paleofarsalos.

From Thessaloniki you can also get to the Meteora monasteries by bus. You will also have to go through Trikala. Current prices and bus schedules can be found on the official website of KTEL Trikala.

You will have to drive a rented car along the toll highway Thessaloniki – Athens (E75). Drive towards Katerini (on the right), then along the Olympic Ridge (on the left). In the Larisa area, turn onto Trikala (E92 highway) and then onto Kalambaka.

In Kalambaka you should find a bus stop near the Plateia Dimarhiou fountain. It is from here that buses depart twice a day to the village of Kastraki, and then to the walls of the Great Meteor monastery. On weekends they depart at 8:20 and 13:20, on weekdays at 9:00 and 13:30. Right next to the fountain you can catch a taxi that will take you to any of the six monasteries.

When visiting the monasteries on your own, you will probably need accommodation in Kalambaka. You can select a suitable hotel in the form below.

Book an excursion

If the entire route described above seems too difficult for you, you can resort to the help of local guides. Departure is possible both as part of a tourist group and individually. For example, from Thessaloniki offers individual excursions

What should you remember when visiting Meteora monasteries?

Meteora, like any religious place, requires visitors to adhere to certain rules of behavior. You cannot talk or joke loudly on the territory of the monasteries. To visit monasteries, you should choose appropriate clothing. For a woman, this must be a dress or skirt below the knee and covered shoulders; for men, it must be trousers and covered shoulders. Visiting the monastery in shorts and a T-shirt is not allowed. If you look inappropriate, at the entrance you will be asked to put on a skirt and cover your shoulders with a scarf. There are no requirements for women to cover their heads in Greek monasteries and temples.

When planning to visit monasteries, you should also take care of comfortable shoes. Numerous treks along mountain paths and climbing stairs will be much more comfortable if you have sports sneakers than beach flip-flops.

It is also worth remembering that photography is prohibited inside churches and cathedrals. Monasteries and temples can only be photographed from the outside.

Do not forget that, as in any holy place, the doors are not always open for tourists. There are days and times when the brethren of the monastery gather for prayer. At this time, the monasteries are closed to visitors.

Below you can find the work schedule of the monasteries. It may change, so it is better to call and check whether the monastery will be open at the specified time. Entrance to the territory of the monasteries for foreign citizens is paid and amounts to 3 euros.

Monastery	Working hours	Day off	Telephone
St. Stephen's	9.30-13.30, 15.30-17.30	Monday	2432-022279
	9.00-17.00	Tuesday	2432-022278
Rusanu (St. Barbara)	9.00-17.00	Wednesday	2432-022649
Holy Trinity	9.00-17.00	Thursday	2432-022220
Saint Varlaam	9.00-16.00	Friday	2432-022277
St. Nicholas Anapavsas	9.00-15.30	Friday	2432-022375

Monastery	Working hours	Day off	Telephone
St. Stephen's	9.30-13.00, 15.30-17.00	Monday	2432-022279
Great Meteor (Preobrazhensky)	9.00-16.00	Tuesday Wednesday	2432-022278
Rusanu (St. Barbara)	9.00-14.00	Wednesday	2432-022649
Holy Trinity	9.00-16.00	Wednesday Thursday	2432-022220
Saint Varlaam	9.00-15.00	Thursday Friday	2432-022277
St. Nicholas Anapavsas	9.00-14.00	Friday	2432-022375

You may also find a map of the forest paths between the Meteor monasteries and the town of Kalambaka useful. Many of these forest trails are very comfortable for hiking. Birds are singing everywhere, forests, fresh air.

Don't miss the opportunity to climb up to the observation decks on the way to the Great Meteor Monastery. The views that nature will reward you with are simply mesmerizing!

Monasteries "Great Meteor" and St. Varlaam

That's all for now! I hope this review will help you make your visit to the Greek monasteries of Meteora enjoyable and comfortable. When planning a vacation in Greece, be sure to include this holy place in your list of interests. Believe me, you will never regret visiting here. It is impossible to believe in existence until you see them.

Meteora(Greek: Μετέωρα) is one of the largest monastic complexes in Greece.

On the territory of Hellas there are the Meteora monasteries - a unique and picturesque complex of architectural buildings. The whole attractive strangeness of the sights of Greece lies in the unusual location of the structures, which were erected directly on the formidable rocks. The height of the mountains is 0.6 kilometers.

History of monasteries

The property of the Greek people arose in the 10th century. Of course, the complex continues to exist. Moreover, the Meteora monasteries are the most interesting tourist destination in Greece.

There is a wonderful symbiosis of the efforts of nature and man on the Thessalian plain. Water, wind, and temperature changes have processed the mountains for about 60 billion years. When people came here, the rocks looked like colossal pillars, which were called Meteors - soaring in the sky.

This happened before the 10th century. The first to come here were religious hermits who lived here and built prayer areas. However, in order to participate in the rites of worship, they had to go down to the corresponding religious sites.

Barnabas corrected the situation, laid the foundation for mountain construction, building the first monastery of the Holy Spirit here. The Transfiguration Monastery arose 50 years later. And the monastery of Stagi (Dupiani), created in 1160, created the conditions for the formation of a local community of monks.

In the 21st century, not all monasteries are operational: only three for women and the same number for men. The largest is the Great Meteor (Preobrazhensky Skete). The rest have sunk into oblivion or become ruins.

Upon a superficial inspection of the sights of Greece, it may seem that the temples literally grew out of the mountains. Indeed, the monasteries perfectly merged with the local nature.

The path to the top was laid with massive stone steps more than 100 years ago. Before the construction of this ladder, climbing the peaks was possible thanks to special hanging ladders, large nets, which were lifted by the efforts of the clergy.

List of Meteora monasteries

• "Archangels" (Greek: Ταξιαρχών)
• “The Chain of the Apostle Peter” (early 15th century)
• "Almighty" (Παντοκράτορα)
• “John of Bunilsky” (Ιωάννου του Μπουνήλα)
• “John the Baptist” (mid-17th century) (Προδρόμου)
• "Ipsiloteras or Calligraphs" (mid-15th century) (Μονής Υψηλωτέρας / Καλλιγράφων)
• "Kalistrata" (Καλλιστράτου)
• “Our Lady of Mikan” (second half of the 14th century) (Παναγίας της Μήκανης)
• "Preobrazhensky" (της Μεταμόρφωσης)
• "Rusan or Arsan" (Ρουσάνου / Αρσάνου)
• “Saint Anthony” (XIV century) (Αγίου Αντωνίου)
• "Saint Barlaam" or All Saints (Βαρλαάμ / Αγίων Πάντων)
• "Saint George Mandilas (Tentmaker)"
• “St. Gregory” (XIV century) (Αγίου Γρηγορίου)
• "Saint Demetrius" (Αγίου Δημητρίου)
• "St. Modest" (XII century) (Μοδέστου)
• “Holy Monastery or Mother of God” (second half of the 15th century) (Αγίας Μονής)
• "St. Nicholas Bandov or Kofin" (around 1400)
• “Saint Nicholas Anapausas” (Αγίου Νικολάου Αναπαυσά)
• "St. Stephen" (Αγίου Στεφάνου)
• "Holy Trinity" (Αγίας Τριάδος)
• “Holy Apostles” (early 16th century) (Αγίων Αποστόλων)
• "Saints Theodore" (Αγίων Θεοδώρων)
• "Meetings" (Υπαπαντής)

Currently there are only 6 monasteries:

• men's - "Transfiguration", "Barlaam", "St. Nicholas Anapavsas", "Holy Trinity";
• female - “Rusana or the monastery of St. Barbara”, “St. Stephen”.

The monasteries of Meteora (Meteora) are undoubtedly one of the most stunning sights that the rich country has to offer. The buildings, perched atop seemingly inaccessible sheer stone spiers, are scattered across the plain north of the town of Kalambaka; “meteora” means “stones in the air” and the Turkish (more precisely, Ottoman) word “kalabak” has approximately the same meaning. Immediately upon arriving at this place, your gaze is involuntarily drawn to the closest and tallest of these stone cylinders.

The closest one on the right hand, the monastery of St. Stephen, sits comfortably and securely on a powerful stand. Behind it stretches a chaotic jumble of turrets, spiers, cones and blunt or rounded cliffs. All these are the remains of river sediments: in prehistoric times, the river flowed into the sea that covered the plain of Thessaly 25 million years ago, and flowing water, assisted by winds, created these bizarre shapes.

The monasteries of Meteora (Meteora) are as mysterious as they are spectacular. One legend claims that Saint Athanasius, who founded the Megala Meteora (Great Meteoron) - the very first construction of the complex - flew up to these celestial steeps on the back of an eagle. A more prosaic legend tells of the dexterity with which the inhabitants of Staia, a medieval village on the site of present-day Kalambaka, climbed mountains - these dexterous villagers helped the monks establish high-mountain monasteries. The inaccessibility of the rocks, not to mention the difficulties of construction in such places, is simply impossible to exaggerate: the German guide for climbers labels almost all Meteora routes “for advanced”, but this means experienced athletes with modern equipment.

The first religious communities appeared here at the end of the 10th century, when hermits, alone and in groups, settled in natural caves, of which there are many in the rocks. In 1336, two Athonite monks came to the places they had already inhabited: Gregory and his disciple Athanasius. Gregory soon returned to, but left his student in Meteora, ordering him to found a monastery. What this Athanasius did, shortly after 1344, whether with supernatural help or otherwise is not truly known, but he managed to establish a very strict and ascetic rule (laws that the monks followed). Very soon, seekers of the heavenly world began to flow into the monastery, and among the newfound brethren there were such characters as John Urosh Palaeologus, from the family of Byzantine Caesars, who abdicated the Serbian throne in 1381 and became, after tonsure as a monk, the monk Joasaph.

The presence of persons of royal and royal blood, of course, contributed a lot to donations to the monasteries, which rapidly multiplied in number, occupying all the accessible rocks, as well as many of the almost completely inaccessible cliffs. Meteora monasticism reached the highest point of its splendor during the reign of the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (1520-1566), when up to 24 monasteries and monastic hermitages existed on the tops of the cliffs. The largest of them became very rich, and not only due to one-time offerings, but also thanks to the constant influx of income from estates donated to the monasteries or left as an inheritance in distant Wallachia (now) and Moldavia or in Thessaly itself. They retained this property of theirs, more or less intact, until the 18th century, when here, as elsewhere in the world, the decline of monasticism and monasteries began.

Over the past centuries, fierce disputes about power and primacy have arisen among monasteries more than once. But the monasteries of Meteora faded not because of internal strife, but for natural and economic reasons. Many buildings, especially small hermitages, gradually deteriorated and collapsed without proper care. The greatest monasteries became noticeably depopulated in the 19th century, when the newly created Greek state established itself south of Meteora - Thessaly itself did not belong to it at first - and monasticism lost its long-standing exclusive role as a symbol and mouthpiece of Greek nationalism and resistance to Turkish rule. In the 20th century, the crisis only intensified: monastic lands and incomes, already greatly reduced compared to the former glory days, were taken away by the state under the pretext of providing assistance to refugees: after the Greco-Turkish wars of 1919-1922, the Greeks of Asia Minor were forced to move to their “historical homeland” .

By the end of the 1950s, there were only four active monasteries left, desperately fighting for their existence and among themselves: it was necessary to divide the monks who were fleeing here, that is, barely a dozen monks. A brilliant chronicle of this era entitled “Rumeli” was compiled by Patrick Leigh Fermor. Then, however, Meteora, if not back on its feet, then slightly revived: the brethren increased in number due to the influx of young people seeking intellectual sobriety and the severity of traditional piety. But this respite turned into a mockery of fate: in the 1970s, the tourism industry reached Meteora. As a result, the four accessible monasteries, which managed to firmly establish themselves on the world map, thanks in part to cinema, including the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only, turned into exhibition windows for displaying historical antiquities. And only two monasteries on the eastern side - Holy Trinity and St. Stephen -, as in the old days, pursue primarily religious goals.

Kalambaka town and Kastraki village

It will take a whole day to explore Meteora, which means you will have to stay at least one night in Kalambaka or, preferably, in Kastraki, 2 kilometers to the northeast: there is a better atmosphere and the rocks are very close. You can also enjoy walking along the stone pavements of the ancient upper part of the village. Accommodation in Kastraki is suitable for those who don't want to waste money without getting quality in return, and the two village campsites are among the best in the area.

• Kalambaka town in Greece

Kalambaka cannot boast of any special attractiveness - except for its proximity to the rocks. The town is being improved, for example, there is a fountain in every square, but there are irreparable losses: during the Second World War, the Germans burned Kalambaka, and only a few pre-war buildings survived. True, among them is the ancient Metropolitan Cathedral, consecrated in honor of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary - Kimisis tis Teotoku (daily 8:00-13:00 and 16:00-18:00; 2 €) - this is a couple of blocks up the hill from the now new active cathedral, at the very top of the village.

The church on the site of the ancient temple of Apollo appeared in the 6th century and in its improperly built walls drums, crowns of columns and other fragments of ancient architecture, “recycled” by Christian architects, are visible. The inside of the vault is lined with wood, which is very unusual, but the interior volume of the middle nave is dominated by a large double pulpit made of marble - something unheard of for a Greek church; the central span itself is furnished with marble columns. Preserved - best in the narthex - Byzantine frescoes of the 13th and 14th centuries are dedicated to the miracles that Christ performed during His earthly ministry (“Healing of the paralytic”, “Storm on the Sea of ​​Galilee”, “Resurrection of Lazarus”, “Marriage in Cana of Galilee” "), although there is a very convincing depiction of hellish torment on the southern wall.

• Arrival, accommodation and meals in Kalambaka

The railway station is located on the ring road on the southern edge of the village. Buses entering Kalambaka stop at the central plateau of Dimarhiou, but the KTEL bus station is actually a little lower, downhill, opposite the railway station. There is no information desk for tourists in Kalambaka, so look for local information in a bookstore selling maps, guidebooks in foreign languages, newspapers and magazines - this is on the western side of the same square, on the corner of Ioanninon and Patriarhu Dimitriou. Those arriving by bus and train are usually greeted by barkers promising a good overnight stay. It’s probably better to avoid these figures and listen to our advice - there are too many complaints about bad rooms and the tricks of clever owners when making payments.

Don't expect much from the faceless hotels lining the main street either: they are filled with tourists from excursion buses, and the double-glazed rooms do not block out street noise. A good option for a tighter wallet is the inexpensive but welcoming Meteora Hotel on Plutarchou 13, a quiet side street on your right hand if you suddenly decide to walk from Kalambaka to Kastraki to reach the foot of the cliffs. There's a variety of air-conditioned and heated rooms to choose from, plus plenty of space to park your car, breakfasts benefit greatly from extras like homemade biscuits and cheeses, and hosts Nikos and Kostas Gekas are a wealth of useful information about the area.

In the upper and more village-like part of the town, about 700 meters from both main squares, near the Metropolis and the starting (also ending) point of the path to the Holy Trinity Monastery, there are two more standing shelters. On Kanari 5 is the Alsos House, which is richer in amenities. On the top floor there are rooms for two and three and suites for families and a well-equipped communal kitchen. The owner's name is Janis Karakandas and he speaks good English. Koka Roka Rooms offers rooms both with and without bathtubs, in short, the usual haven for tourists with backpacks. Downstairs they serve food from the grill (cheap and good food from €10), and the service, while slow, can be cheerful, and there is internet access.

Mid-range hotels include the Odyssion at the end of the highway that runs through the town, which is closer to Kastraki. The hotel is quiet because it is set back from the road. The rooms were mostly renovated in 2004, the floors are parquet or tiles, the bathrooms have a shower or bath. Breakfast is served in the new bright salon, there are also 6 multi-room suites in Kastraki, Archontiko Mesohori, but the archaeologists did not allow the owners to build a swimming pool and plant a garden behind the building. If you have your own transport, head east of the city to the family-run Pension Arsenis, which is worth doing for the bucolic atmosphere, high standard rooms and good restaurant there.

The food situation is the same as with hotels: there are plenty of average and below-average establishments, and there is plenty of public. The exception is Skaros, located 150 meters from the Divani Hotel on the eastern outskirts of the city (open all year round, if there is a large group, then in advance). Rarely does a tourist reach this point, but the locals know and appreciate excellent lamb kebab at a reasonable price, chops, and home-grown vegetables. In the center, on the Dimarchiu platia, Panellinion can be quite intimidating with its noisy decoration “in a rural spirit” and high prices, but the high price is justified by the high quality of products, wonderful black bread, fried new potatoes and generally good cuisine, so the establishment does not complain about the lack of customers .

• Kastraki village in Greece

Kastraki from Kalambaka is a 20-minute walk along a traffic-filled and not very safe highway. The construction of a real walking trail starting at the old Metropolitan Cathedral has been delayed. During the season (May 15-September 15), buses run regularly between Kalambaka and Kastraki all day long. Arriving at the village from its lower edge, you will pass by the first of two local campsites - Camping Vrachos, where during the season the local equipment supplier also offers visitors sports adventures in the surrounding area. The second campsite - Camping Boufidhis-The Cave (May-October) operates on the upper edge of the road passing through the entire village, is a little more cluttered, but there is so much wonderful grass there (if the year is not dry), and the tents are in the shade, not to mention already about the luxurious location: on the far edge of the village and, therefore, closer to the rocks: the monasteries of St. Nicholas Anapavsas and Rusanou literally soar in the heights. Both campsites, as well as others on the roads to Trikala and , have swimming pools.

In the village there are dozens of rooms for rent, often of a very high standard, and five hotels. It is important to choose a place away from the main highway towards the monasteries - buses rattle along the highway every now and then all day long (and motorcycles and scooters rattle all night). Doupiani House has this quality, which is easy to find by signs generously placed along the highway, starting from the Cave campsite. The air-conditioned rooms have superb views, especially from the front, and the owners Thanassis and Toula serve breakfast in the best hotel garden in Kastraki and can tell you where to start your hike or climb. But you need to book a room throughout the year - the demand for the hotel is such that a luxurious extension was built to the current building.

Further down the mountain and again at a decent distance from the highway are Ziogas Rooms, where the rooms are more spacious and have balconies, almost all of them have wonderful views, and in winter they turn on the heating. On the lower floor there is a large salon: breakfast is served in the morning, and a tavern is open there during the day. Near the road, but in a quiet place, you will find the friendly Tsikelli Hotel - rooms in pink and white, has its own parking lot and a cafe in the park. Opposite the extension to Doupiani House and Odysseon is the luxurious by Kastraki standards, built in 2007, with wooden floors Pyrgos Adrachti at the top of the old block, you have to climb, but there is a sufficiently large car park. Nearby is the Guest-house Sotiriou with five rooms, three of which have fireplaces, in a restored building from 1845.

Among a good dozen restaurants (predominantly psystarias), the best of the more or less universal establishments is probably Paradhisos on the road through the entire village: for a kebab with red bean salad and beer on a crowded terrace with an excellent view, they are unlikely to charge very much. Bakalarakia is good for a summer evening: the atmosphere, the terrace behind the church and below the central platia, this little kutuki does not disappear in winter: locals love it for its grilled dishes, salads, bacalaros and homemade wine. But if you have your own transport, don’t be lazy and go - there are many signs - to Neromylos, which is on the far edge of the village of Dyava, 4 kilometers to the southwest. High ceilings, a fireplace, under the current owner’s grandfather, all this was a water mill: in the summer you will sit on the terrace next to the tanks in which trout splash. In addition to trout, there is also plenty of other things: meat and galotiri, vegetarian mezedes, and large portions are convenient to wash down with large sips of draft wine (it is light).

Visit to the monasteries of Meteora

All six main monasteries of Meteora are open to the public, but at different times. If you want to see all the monasteries in a day, start your tour early to see the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, Varlaam and Megala Meteor before 13:00, leaving the monastery of Rousanou, Holy Trinity and St. Stephen for the afternoon. The highway from Kastraki to the monastery of St. Stephen is almost 10 kilometers, and the road narrows every now and then, and the cars do not slow down. If you are moving on foot, you better follow our advice; we tried to protect you as much as possible from asphalt with bitumen - trails and dirt roads will save you from this scourge. St. Stephen's Monastery is located in a cul-de-sac, whether you arrive on the highway or along mountain paths; from the sign to Kalambaka on the highway, 6 kilometers are not at all in a straight line, almost reaching the Holy Trinity Monastery.

In season, there are buses from Kalambaka to Metalu Meteoru/Varlaam monasteries during the day (the 9:00 and 13:00 buses are more reliable), and even if you only travel part of the way by bus, you can spend more time sightseeing rather than traveling to them. You may need a map of the area, especially if you want to get off the beaten track. In Kalambaka they sell all sorts of nonsense, but at the newspaper and book point on the central platform two goods are worth the money asked for them: Panoramic Map with Geoiogy, jointly developed by the Swiss publishing house Karto Atelier and the Greek company Trekking Hellas: it’s like The view is from a bird's eye view, but quite accurate and suitable for following the main routes.

The booklet, produced by Road Editions, with Greek-only text (by Andonis Kaloiirou) and a topographical map on the back cover, is excellent and many will buy the booklet for the map alone. Before you set off, it's a good idea to stock up on food and drink for the day. Along the entire tourist route there are no more than a couple of stalls selling drinks and fruits - near the monasteries of Varlaam and Megala Meteora. Finally, don't forget to bring money: each monastery charges an entrance fee - now 2 €, and even students do not have discounts. There are strict requirements for clothing: women only wear skirts (not trousers), men wear long trousers (not shorts), and shoulders, regardless of gender, must be covered.

Guests are often provided with skirts or robes that cover everything that is required, but it is better not to hope for this. Finally, remember that any photography or video filming in the monasteries is strictly prohibited. In fact, it is better to come to Meteora out of season, when the trees have shed their leaves and the stone towers are covered with snow. In the middle of summer, commercialization and crowds (and mountains of garbage on the roads) can be depressing, all this fuss is very out of place next to an untouched, wild, romantic, spiritual valley. At such times, it is probably preferable to head to less visited monasteries, such as Ipapandi or Holy Trinity.

Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas

North of Kastraki, a winding road squeezes between the huge rocks of Aion Pneuma and Dupyani - the second is named after the barely visible hermitage chapel, one of the earliest monasteries here. To avoid walking along the highway (with traffic), go to the main square of the village and go out onto the street that starts at the northwest corner of the platia - it will then turn into a path. This trail passes directly under the amusing cave-chapel of Agios Yeoryos Mandilas - you can recognize this depression at the very bottom of the monolithic rock of Aion Pneuma by seeing the colored spots. These are votive offerings - the so-called mandillas (shawls, scarves, etc.) - that is why this St. George shrine is designated by the epithet mandilas: once a year on April 23, a hundred of the most dexterous local youths (and about the same number of young people from all over Greece) climb or they climb a rope to the top of a cliff and take away the scarves that have accumulated over the year - for good luck.

The ceremony is always shown on TV, but not always everything goes completely smoothly: the climb to the rock is unusually difficult, many do not receive the blessing of St. George and are literally cast down - if not into the abyss, then from a considerable height. The chosen path will lead you in 20 minutes to the bottom step of a kind of flight of stairs. Climb the steps to reach the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Anapavsas (Monday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 9:00-15:30; access ends at 15:00; November-March). In the 1980s, the monastery was restored; pay attention to the excellent frescoes of the early 16th century in the katholikon (the main church of the monastery) - they were painted by the Cretan painter Theophanes. The tiny Catholicon faces, contrary to the canons, almost exactly to the north, and not to the east - we had to take into account the configuration of the rock.

On the eastern wall of the naos, the shocked student not only prostrates himself, but, it seems, makes a somersault over his head - such an unusual solution to the canonical “Transfiguration” plot is also explained by the limited space (and the ingenuity of the icon painter). In the fresco “The Denial of Peter” on the gate arch, the title character warms his hands over the fire in the predawn twilight. On the western wall of the narthex (narthex) there is a stylite (a hermit living on a pillar), in a wasteland inhabited by wild animals, and a servant collects provisions in a basket to then bring it upstairs - such scenes could very well have taken place here or nearby when the fresco was new.

But the desert fathers are rushing to the burial of the preacher Ephraim the Syrian (Saint Aphrem the Syrian): some ride on wild animals, others - the crippled or infirm - are carried on stretchers, some are carried on their shoulders and backs. In addition to the painting of Theophanes, there are also later images, distinguished by their simplicity: Adam naming the beasts - among which is written the basilisk - the legendary lizard-like creature that killed with its breath or gaze. Near the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, on the tip of a needle-shaped stone spire, one can see the remains of a destroyed structure - these are the ruins of the walls of the monastery of St. Moni, abandoned after the earthquake of 1858.

Behind the ruins of the monastery of St. Moni, 250 meters from the parking lot and steps of the entrance staircase of the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas, a paved path, partially shaded, branches off from the highway (signposts only to the monastery of St. Varlaam). After a 15-minute walk uphill, this path will lead you to an unmarked T-shaped fork: turning right, in 10 minutes you will be at the monastery of St. Varlaam, and turning left, in the same 10 minutes, but the climb will be steeper, you will reach Megala Meteora monastery. There is no other road between the monasteries (except for the cluttered access roads to both). If you first choose the Megala Meteora monastery, then to get to the monastery of St. Varlaam, you will have to go down to the fork and then go up to the second monastery.

Megala Meteora Monastery (another name is the Great Meteor or Transfiguration Monastery; summer Monday and Wednesday-Sunday 9:00-17:00; winter Monday and Wednesday-Sunday 9:00-46:00) - the most majestic and highest of all the monasteries : It is built on the rock Platis Litos (Wide Stone) at an altitude of 615 meters above sea level. He enjoyed great privileges, and for many centuries dominated the area, and in an 18th-century engraving (on display in the museum) he is depicted towering above the others. How Afanasy got to this rock remains a mystery.

The Catholicon of the monastery, consecrated in honor of the Transfiguration (Metamorphosis), is the most magnificent in Meteora, a beautiful church in plan: a cross inscribed in a square, columns and beams support a kind of floating dome with the image of Christ Pantocrator in Glory written on it. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the temple was expanded, so that the original church, built in 1383 by the monk Joasaph, the former king, now merely serves as a “hieron” (sanctuary) behind an intricately carved temblon (“templon” - an altar barrier with an iconostasis). The frescoes, however, are relatively late (mid-16th century) and are inferior to the murals of other monasteries in artistic significance. The narthex (narthex) is painted almost exclusively with eerie and sad scenes of martyrdom.

Monastic chambers and other premises of the monastery occupy a vast vaulted massif of several buildings. In the “kellari” (basement storage) there is an exhibition of agricultural implements and peasant utensils. The refectory - under the dome and vaulted ceilings - is still furnished as if it served its original purpose: on the tables are traditional silver and pewter dishes for monastic meals. But now there is a museum here, on display are crosses with magnificent wood carvings and rare icons. You can look into the ancient kitchen adjacent to the refectory; it is also under the dome, but covered in soot: bread was baked in the oven, and stew was cooked on the fireplace.

Monastery of St. Varlaam

Monastery of St. Varlaam or All Saints (summer Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Sunday 9:00-14:00; winter Monday-Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 9:00-15:00) - one of the oldest monasteries, standing on the site of a hermitage. , founded by Saint Barlaam - this figure played a key role in the history of Meteora shortly after the arrival of Athanasius in Meteora. The current building was founded by two Apsaras brothers from Ioannina in 1540-1544 and is considered one of the most beautiful in the valley. The Catholicon of the monastery, dedicated to All Saints (Aion Pandon), is small but brilliant: it is supported by painted beams, and the walls and pillars are completely covered with frescoes.

The dominant theme is not only desert living, which is appropriate in Meteora, but also martyrdom. The colorful “Last and Last Judgment” (1566) is very convincing: the gaping mouth of Leviathan devours the damned. But above the icons and murals reigns the majestic “Pantocrator” (Lord Pantocrator; 1544) on the inner of the two domes, and on the outer dome the magnificent “Ascension” is written. In the refectory there is a museum with an exhibition of icons, fabrics, decorated furniture and other church and household utensils. In another place they show a barrel in which the monks kept drinking water.

In the monastery of St. Varlaam, a lifting tower has been preserved: a not entirely safe receiving platform and a dubious, now unused, mechanism with a winch (later it was replaced by an electric winch), although now, as in the old days, ropes and a “basket” are in use. Until the 1920s, almost all the monasteries of Meteora could not be reached except through a wicker “net”, which was lifted up using a gate and a rope, or via an attached ladder that was then retracted, which was also hardly safe. Patrick Leigh Fermor tells a parable about one abbot who, being asked how often a rope was changed, answered: “When the old one breaks.”

The Bishop of Trikalsky ordered to break through the steps by which one can now climb to all the monasteries, clearly out of concern for his reputation, which, undoubtedly, could suffer if something happened to some careless stranger. So now ropes and baskets are used only for delivering supplies and building materials to the top, especially since there are also trailers of a cable car thrown over the abysses, which begins in the nearby car park.

Rusanu Monastery

To walk from the monastery of St. Varlaam to the monastery of Rusanou, it is recommended to descend from Varlaam along the access road to this monastery, about 150 meters, where this path connects with the access road to the Megala Meteora monastery. At the fence, get off the road and, without losing sight of the marks (spots of blue paint), choose from the paths those on which you feel a more or less decent path under your feet. This way you will pass by (and a little higher) several small rounded rocks, this is the so-called Plakes Kelaraka, to emerge immediately above a sharp bend in the road to the bottom of the ravine, where even in July you still come across puddles. Cross the stream bed and climb up the mountain to the far side of the ravine, and then take a right, towards the trees, and, squeezing through the woods, emerge, after about 50 meters, onto another path.

You will emerge onto the access road to the Rusan monastery - from the moment you parted with the monastery of St. Varlaam, 35 minutes will pass, and you will only have to overcome the last twenty meters of the road, severely disfigured by heaps of stone and debris. There is a path with many signs leading up to the 16th-century monastery; it is known not only as Rusanu (summer daily 9:00-18:00; winter Monday, Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday 9:00-14:00), but also as the Monastery of St. Barbara . You can get to the monastery in a different way, by going off the road onto the path and making a higher circle, but in any case, the last part of the path is on a shaky bridge thrown to the entrance to the monastery from a nearby cliff.

The location of the monastery puts Rusana out of the ordinary even in comparison with other monasteries of Meteora: all its walls turn into steep cliff edges with almost no gap. The narthex (narthex) of the main church of the monastery was painted in the 17th century with terrible scenes of various martyrdoms and executions, and the only thing you can catch your breath on, tired of contemplating these scenes, is a lion licking the feet of Daniel, thrown into a prison (to the left of the window). In the opposite corner, two not so friendly lions are devouring Saint Ignatius the God-Bearer. The Apocalypse is painted colorfully and with extraordinary vividness on the eastern wall (however, the Last Judgment is usually written on the western wall).

If you need to return from the Rusanou monastery directly to Kastraki, there is a wonderful trail that greatly shortens the path. Get out onto the lower road to the monastery and walk downhill for about thirteen minutes so that, having passed the first sharp bend in the track, you come to a sign on the side of the road warning about the next sharp turn - there will also be something like a transformer substation with a support. Cross the path that goes sharply down and to the south, along the flow of the Paleokranjes stream, and follow it to a small pumping station on the above-described rural road Kastraki - the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapavsas. The journey will take about twenty minutes and you will save almost the same amount compared to the highway route.

Monastery of the Holy Trinity

From the bottom point of the lower approach path to the Rusan monastery, you can descend for about seven minutes until the first bend, then go to the path indicated by a sign to the Holy Trinity Monastery. After about 10 minutes of steep ascent, you will reach a ridge, behind which the uneven rocky canyon of Huni opens up - the Holy Trinity Monastery. There is no direct road from here, so turn left and follow the marks on the rocks - these are spots of red paint - you will climb (not so steeply any more) to a point where a bypass road after 600 meters will lead to your goal - the proposed route does not save much time on compared to a half-hour walk from the Rusanu monastery along the road, but much more pleasant. The final stage of the journey from the car park at the Holy Trinity Monastery (daily except Thursday: summer 9:00-17:00; winter 9:00-12:30 and 15:00-17:00) consists of 130 steps carved into a hole cut through the rock tunnel. You will emerge into a bright and airy manor house, which was renovated in the 1980s and 1990s.

Inside you will see small exhibitions of yarn, fabrics and kitchen and rural items, but instead of explanatory signs everywhere there are maxims from the 13th chapter of the Apostle Paul’s First Epistle to the Corinthians: “Love endures long,” “love is not provoked,” and so on. The frescoes in the Catholicon have been completely cleared and restored by restorers to their original shine, so you will not regret the time spent visiting the monastery. On the southwestern wall near the “Assumption” is written “The Betrayal of Judas,” but the thirty pieces of silver are not depicted by paint, but by real coins suspended from the image. Like other churches of Meteora, this one seems to have been built in two stages - judging by the two domes, and on both - the “Pantocrator” (the one above the temblon is very good), as well as two sets of evangelists on sails, under the dome . On the southern arch is painted a rare image of the beardless Christ Emmanuel, who is carried by four cherubs.

Relatively few buses with excursionists stop at the monastery, and life in the monastery remains monastic; now there are only four monks in the monastery, who maintain the monastery in a presentable form. Among them is Elder John, who has lived here since 1975 and could tell you how the Mother of God healed him of blindness in one eye (however, the monk’s second eye was still missing). Although the Holy Trinity Monastery is perched above a deep ravine, and the garden at its rear ends in a real cliff, there is a clearly visible and signposted path that starts at the lowest of the steps leading up to the monastery and goes straight to the upper part of Kalambaka. The descent will take you 45 minutes, and there is no need to walk for long along the ring road: the trail is partly paved and is generally in decent condition in any weather.

Monastery of St. Stephen

To the last and easternmost monastery of St. Stephen (Tuesday-Sunday: summer 9:00-14:00 and 15:30-18:00; winter 9:00-13:00 and 15:00-17:00) about 15 minutes walk from the Holy Trinity Monastery: you walk along the road (there is no path cutting off the corner), and around the bend suddenly the monastery of St. Stephen you need appears. This monastery is also active and is now for women: the nuns will try to sell you some trinkets.

The monastery suffered greatly from bombing in World War II and communist raids during the civil war. This monastery is the first on the list of attractions that you can skip if you don’t have enough time. It is impossible not to say, of course, that in the 15th century refectory there is a fresco painting of the Virgin Mary on the apse, and in the museum, a little further away, there is an excellent “Epitafios” - a tombstone embroidered with gold. The old path from St. Stephen's Monastery to Kalambaka is unused and unsafe: return to the Holy Trinity Monastery and descend along the route described above.

• Other routes Meteora

After touring the monasteries, many visitors - especially in the off-season - are tempted to stay an extra day for the ambience that seems to be from another universe. Therefore, it makes sense to report on other places hidden among the rocks that promise complete solitude, and suggest how to get to them. More accessible than many others is the hike to the Holy Spirit Cave Church of Aion Pneuma. Starting from the Kastraki platia, take the path marked with boulders, which is higher and to the north of the square, and move northeast to the last house on this side of the ravine that divides the village in half. Behind this house you will see a clear, although not marked, path leading into the desert. After the trail passes through abandoned gardens and walnut groves, bushes and cobblestones left by rockfalls begin, and on your left hand you will see a stone wall - this is the Aion Pneuma monolith.

The Rusanu Monastery comes into view, and the path sharply bends and begins to descend into a ravine - or better yet, into a cleft in the rock. After about 35 minutes you will reach a flat platform hanging from a monolithic rock in both directions: to the right (to the west) on the layered surface of the rock the mouth of the cave temple of Aion Pneuma is blackened. A hermit once lived in the cave, and inside - in addition to whitewash and modern icons - you will see a coffin (sarcophagus) intended for his (disappeared) remains, which is also carved from stone. To the left of the entrance to the church is a cistern for rainwater, which the hermit drank. Connoisseurs and connoisseurs can spend a few minutes climbing to the top of the rock, where the bell tower is located and where excellent views open up.

If you have the strength and some skills, you can go to the outskirts of Kastraki to climb to the cave church of Agia Apostoli (Holy Apostles) - in all of Meteora there is no sacred monument at a higher altitude: this one is located on the top of a rock rising 630 meters. Behind the conspicuous village cemetery, a noticeable uphill path begins, which in 15 minutes will lead you to the even more conspicuous stone “finger” of Adrahti, from which you will need a bit of composure: you will need to find a difficult-to-see continuation of the path over the steep edge of the ravine on the right, but hold on left side. For about five minutes you will move with difficulty on all fours, but then the real trail begins. At the very end is the most risky moment: you will have to climb a ladder to the top of the cliff. This walk is not for those with a fear of heights.

Those seeking solitude can head to the outskirts to the cave church of Agios Andonyos (St. Anthony). On the south-eastern outskirts of Kastraki, opposite the Taverna To Harama tavern, turn onto a narrow road signposted in English "Old Habitation of Kastraki". After driving or walking along this path for a short time, bear right onto a single lane cement road which soon turns into a dirt road leading to a modern but beautiful chapel built in the traditional style. You can also get here by road starting at the top of old Kastraki).

In the east and a little higher, wedged into the front surface of the cliff, the restored St. Nicholas Monastery of Aiiu Nikolaou Bandovas (visitors are not allowed) is subordinate to the Holy Trinity Monastery and currently operates as a desert monastery. But you were walking (try to guess the sunset) for the cave church of Ayios Andonyos that suddenly appeared before your eyes, as if erupting from the Pixari rock (after restoration in 2005-2006, it was reopened to visitors). Next to it you will see many rickety wooden structures like stands: they are pushed into natural recesses in the rock, from which half-rotten ladders hang.

These tiny caves were inhabited not just by those who labored in the desert, but by the most severe ascetics, and although now only mountain pigeons live in the former ascetics (that is, the dwellings of ascetics; the Greek name is ascetics), they were inhabited for a very good part of the 20th century , and until the 1960s, on the day of remembrance of the patron saint of hermits, a monk in the rank of priest climbed into the cave every year and served the liturgy. Here, in a deserted wild wasteland, without souvenir shops, polyglot guides and excursion buses, aspirations for a “contemplative life” are found, which is how the permanent inhabitants of Meteora live.

Church of Timiou Stavrou in Greece

If you have your own transport, it is worth driving 42 kilometers west of Kalambaka, to the “flaming” medieval church of Timiu Stavrou (Honorous Cross), standing between the villages of Krania (on some maps: Kraneia) and Dulyana. The church itself, although built in the 18th century, looks older, and not because of its dilapidation, but because it appeared as a play on a capricious chance: the architects decided to combine the features of two models spotted in Romania and Russia. What they came up with was neither more nor less, but a dozen tower-shaped domes - the height is noticeably greater than the diameter - three above the nave, one above each of the three apses and six at the ends of the triple transept.

The outside of the church has been very well renovated, which was not hindered by either hasty post-war restoration (the Germans burned the church in 1943 in response to the partisan movement that had developed in the surrounding area) or construction using heavy equipment nearby. The terrace, equipped with a wooden table (and a water tap nearby), is a great place to have a picnic. And if you manage to ask permission to view it (the church is usually closed), you will see in the apse a syntrono - a stone bench that served as the bishop’s throne and survived the fire of 1943.

To get to the church, drive north from Kalambaka and after 10 kilometers do not take the Ioannina motorway, but turn left onto the narrower road to Murgani, the fork is colored with many direction signs to the highland villages. Climb steadily up the mountain and, having crossed the spur of Mount Tringia, begin a steep descent into a densely forested valley at the headwaters of the Aspropotamos River: the scenery is considered one of the most beautiful in Pindus. From the unmarked tavern at the turn to Doliana, continue moving 5 kilometers south, to the bridge and the road to the left with a sign in Greek: “Pros Ieran Monin Timiou Stavrou Doulianon.”

This path after 700 meters will lead you to the church, located at 1150 meters above sea level. In the summer, almost every day a bus runs from Trikala to the village of Krania, closest to the church, stopping at the village platform, where the hotel and the Aspropotamos tavern are open (late June-August). From Crania or directly from the church you can drive another 7 kilometers to the Pyrgos Mantania Hotel or 17 kilometers to Tria Potamia, and from there, heading east and passing through Pertouli and Pyli, you can complete the loop and return to Trikala.

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